12.1 @ 121mph and 123mph on drag radials
12.1 @ 121mph and 123mph on drag radials
Went and hit up the ol' track today - pretty good conditions. Could have been a little cooler but the pressure was really high (was even higher last night, would have been better).
First run the DA was 800' - 63 degrees 30.40 baro and 38 dewpoint, no wind to speak of.
Cracked off a new drag radial personal best of 12.38 @ 120.66mph with a mediocre 2.09 60' on the Nitto DRs at 12.5psi cold, no burnout. My previous PB on DRs was 12.42 @ 117.9mph. I saw 14.5psi of boost on this run. All my runs tonight were as usual on pure 93 octane. Race weight tonight was 3018lbs (I've installed a carbon fiber hood recently). I was really happy with this run but I knew I could do better if I let the car cool and had a better launch - had to pedal it to mitigate wheelspin in 1st and 2nd.
Let it sit for almost two hours and unfortunately the DA went up to 1200' with 68 deg, 30.34 baro and 38 dewpoint. Did a burnout this time, decent one. Managed a 12.151 @ 120.99mph on a 1.95 60'. That is my best DR 60' time, best ET overall (even better than the runs I've made on ET Streets) and was my best MPH until later in the night. I had to let off in 1st and 2nd because I got wheelhop, which is new to me with this car, I haven't hopped before. Here's the timeslip it's kindof hard to read the yellow carbon copy. I was 2mph slower in the 1/8th and at 1000' but I made up for that on the big end. ET was a lost cause though.

Then had to wait 6 godforsaken hours for these asshats to run the test and tune cars again. They were making up a rained out event and testers got pushed to the back burner. The upside was that the car had totally cooled off and the DA had dropped to 400' mostly because of the temp going down to 54 deg, baro dropped to 30.29 and dewpoint went up to 43 deg. I gave the boost controller another click to the right at the 7000rpm level to get a little more out of it up top and I saw 15.4psi this time and ran a dismal 2.16 60' because dew had settled on the track at this point. I got pretty violent wheelhop in 1st and 2nd and got out of it multiple times in both gears, shifted rather early into 3rd. Ran a 12.70 @ 122.94mph with all that BS in the first half of the track. So I was happy with the trap but mad at the ET. Might have had more in it if I didn't have to fiddle fark around with it in the first half of the race. Here's the slip:
First run the DA was 800' - 63 degrees 30.40 baro and 38 dewpoint, no wind to speak of.
Cracked off a new drag radial personal best of 12.38 @ 120.66mph with a mediocre 2.09 60' on the Nitto DRs at 12.5psi cold, no burnout. My previous PB on DRs was 12.42 @ 117.9mph. I saw 14.5psi of boost on this run. All my runs tonight were as usual on pure 93 octane. Race weight tonight was 3018lbs (I've installed a carbon fiber hood recently). I was really happy with this run but I knew I could do better if I let the car cool and had a better launch - had to pedal it to mitigate wheelspin in 1st and 2nd.
Let it sit for almost two hours and unfortunately the DA went up to 1200' with 68 deg, 30.34 baro and 38 dewpoint. Did a burnout this time, decent one. Managed a 12.151 @ 120.99mph on a 1.95 60'. That is my best DR 60' time, best ET overall (even better than the runs I've made on ET Streets) and was my best MPH until later in the night. I had to let off in 1st and 2nd because I got wheelhop, which is new to me with this car, I haven't hopped before. Here's the timeslip it's kindof hard to read the yellow carbon copy. I was 2mph slower in the 1/8th and at 1000' but I made up for that on the big end. ET was a lost cause though.

Then had to wait 6 godforsaken hours for these asshats to run the test and tune cars again. They were making up a rained out event and testers got pushed to the back burner. The upside was that the car had totally cooled off and the DA had dropped to 400' mostly because of the temp going down to 54 deg, baro dropped to 30.29 and dewpoint went up to 43 deg. I gave the boost controller another click to the right at the 7000rpm level to get a little more out of it up top and I saw 15.4psi this time and ran a dismal 2.16 60' because dew had settled on the track at this point. I got pretty violent wheelhop in 1st and 2nd and got out of it multiple times in both gears, shifted rather early into 3rd. Ran a 12.70 @ 122.94mph with all that BS in the first half of the track. So I was happy with the trap but mad at the ET. Might have had more in it if I didn't have to fiddle fark around with it in the first half of the race. Here's the slip:
Good stuff man. Those trap speeds are ridiculously healthy. Can't wait for some slicked, 00 VI'd runs. Do you think it has 11's in it in its current configuration? More traction?
It might, we'll see what happens if I ever get on a slick on great day again. This car won't ever have 00vi on it but hopefully it'll have something that works out as well or maybe better.
Nice traps. Sounds like it wasn't quite cold enough for em to bring out the flamethrower to heat up the start. That would've helped the launches.
I gotta sawzall to help shed another 200lbs and guarantee those 11's.
I gotta sawzall to help shed another 200lbs and guarantee those 11's.
Originally Posted by MAX2000JP
The VLSD works fine in our friend's 350Z on BFG's.
VLSD isn't perfect but it will be better than nothing on the burnouts I defnately believe. 1 wheel burnouts are doubly bad because in addition to the stress it places on the vehicle, it leaves me with one tire soaking wet and cold, and another dry and hot. Not sweet - I'd probably be better off doing no burnout and launching on cold but dry tires instead of one cold/wet and one hot dry. I could pick up a quaife but that's another G I don't want to spend if I don't have to.
edit: i should say though - I don't believe it'll be as much of an issue on slicks. In my limited experience on the DRs I've discovered that doing a burnout on them is more difficult than it was on my slicks on my old car - both the burnout in general and making sure that I got both tires spinning - so hopefully the combination of ease of burnout and VLSD will solve the problem.
edit: i should say though - I don't believe it'll be as much of an issue on slicks. In my limited experience on the DRs I've discovered that doing a burnout on them is more difficult than it was on my slicks on my old car - both the burnout in general and making sure that I got both tires spinning - so hopefully the combination of ease of burnout and VLSD will solve the problem.
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
VLSD isn't perfect but it will be better than nothing on the burnouts I defnately believe. 1 wheel burnouts are doubly bad because in addition to the stress it places on the vehicle, it leaves me with one tire soaking wet and cold, and another dry and hot. Not sweet - I'd probably be better off doing no burnout and launching on cold but dry tires instead of one cold/wet and one hot dry. I could pick up a quaife but that's another G I don't want to spend if I don't have to.
edit: i should say though - I don't believe it'll be as much of an issue on slicks. In my limited experience on the DRs I've discovered that doing a burnout on them is more difficult than it was on my slicks on my old car - both the burnout in general and making sure that I got both tires spinning - so hopefully the combination of ease of burnout and VLSD will solve the problem.
edit: i should say though - I don't believe it'll be as much of an issue on slicks. In my limited experience on the DRs I've discovered that doing a burnout on them is more difficult than it was on my slicks on my old car - both the burnout in general and making sure that I got both tires spinning - so hopefully the combination of ease of burnout and VLSD will solve the problem.
The other cheap solution is to weld the diff but it makes for pretty stiff steering at low speeds.
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
edit: i should say though - I don't believe it'll be as much of an issue on slicks. In my limited experience on the DRs I've discovered that doing a burnout on them is more difficult than it was on my slicks on my old car - both the burnout in general and making sure that I got both tires spinning - so hopefully the combination of ease of burnout and VLSD will solve the problem.
Rim width is another big one. If you're stuck with 15X6.5 or 15X7 rims then oh well. But if you're willing to drop 200$, you can get 15X8 or 15X10 cheap, light rims for like 90-100$ a piece, whatever backspacing you ask them; http://www.diamondracingwheels.com/AvengerSeries.htm
A 26X10 M&H slick on a 15X10 wheel would work great on your car.
I sometimes turn the wheels when I'm doing a burnout and sometimes I don't. No real rhyme or reason to when I do or not.
I won't be getting slicks until spring. I will make the diameter decision based upon my power level, gearing, and trap speeds in the spring because I am planning on changing all of the above for next year. I have a set of 15x7s I'll probably use initially and if I feel they are inadequate then I will get wider wheels when money allows.
I won't be getting slicks until spring. I will make the diameter decision based upon my power level, gearing, and trap speeds in the spring because I am planning on changing all of the above for next year. I have a set of 15x7s I'll probably use initially and if I feel they are inadequate then I will get wider wheels when money allows.
Originally Posted by JClaw
Do yourself favor and don't skimp on the meat when the time comes to choose slicks. Underestimating tire size with high powered FWD's is probably the most common mistake people make (I have been guilty of this one). Anything under 26 inches tall is too small for your car. 27-inches will probably fit, by the way.
Rim width is another big one. If you're stuck with 15X6.5 or 15X7 rims then oh well. But if you're willing to drop 200$, you can get 15X8 or 15X10 cheap, light rims for like 90-100$ a piece, whatever backspacing you ask them; http://www.diamondracingwheels.com/AvengerSeries.htm
A 26X10 M&H slick on a 15X10 wheel would work great on your car.
Rim width is another big one. If you're stuck with 15X6.5 or 15X7 rims then oh well. But if you're willing to drop 200$, you can get 15X8 or 15X10 cheap, light rims for like 90-100$ a piece, whatever backspacing you ask them; http://www.diamondracingwheels.com/AvengerSeries.htm
A 26X10 M&H slick on a 15X10 wheel would work great on your car.
Originally Posted by MAX2000JP
I don't know much about M&H, but MT is THE standard. If you want to hook, you buy Mickeys. A 28X10.5X15 would probably work too.
Originally Posted by MAX2000JP
I don't know much about M&H, but MT is THE standard. If you want to hook, you buy Mickeys. A 28X10.5X15 would probably work too.
MT is more common for RWD guys though.
Originally Posted by nismology
Looks like you missed this thread...http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=494525
Originally Posted by JClaw
Dunno if 28's would fit. Slicks stretch on the big end, up to 1" taller, so I would go for 27-inchers MAX (Hoosier makes some) or 26-inchers if you keep to MT or M&H. FWD guys seem to prefer M&H, at least that seems to be the concensus for guys with high powered SRT-4's going mid 1.6 60 foots. 1.6's are pretty much the limit for FWD cars without wheelie bars.
MT is more common for RWD guys though.
MT is more common for RWD guys though.
Originally Posted by MAX2000JP
Again, MT's are THE drag solution. This is Maxima.org and there are very few whom are hardcore drag racers. Go to any domestic site(I now own a Mustang) and do a quick search. You will be hard pressed to find many threads about M&H and hundreds about MT's.
Originally Posted by nismology
That can just be attributed to brand loyalty as opposed to out-and-out superiority. The few serious maxima drag racers here seem to prefer the M&H's.
I am going to quit whoring up Neal's thread, but in conclusion the Maxima drag racing community is minuscule and you should consult other boards about slicks.
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