Hey all. About 2 months ago, i ran my car for the 1st time with no interior(pass seat or back) and empty trunk and ran a 16.6 and a 16.5. Now 2 months later, I have replaced my knock sensor
added a cone filter(popcharger) and a Warpspeed Y. I went the track again, and fresh off the road i ran a 15.12 @ 92 manumaticing it at about 6.5k. I hot lapped and ran again but shifted at about 6.2k thinking i was "staying in the powerband" and ran a 15.29 @ 89.
So I was in shock that my car had became that much quicker with basiclly 1 mod(ypipe)
I let the car cool and ran again but i switched my back wheels(16" SSR's) for my brothers front wheels(19" RH) so he could try and get quicker times.
Now here's where it gets weird. I ran a 15.012 @ 93.30 and went right behind that with a 15.058@92.01.
My 60' was a 2.33 and a 2.37 for those 2 but for the slower runs it was a 2.27 and a 2.29
NOW HERE'S THE QUESTION
Now does that mean if i would have kept the SSR's on the back, i would have gotten another 2.2x 60' therefore resulting in a 14.9x pass or would it have only affected my 60' ft?
p.s. i ran with no back seat or pass. seat, empty trunk except 1200w amp and misc stuff.
Please help me understand this
Aaron
added a cone filter(popcharger) and a Warpspeed Y. I went the track again, and fresh off the road i ran a 15.12 @ 92 manumaticing it at about 6.5k. I hot lapped and ran again but shifted at about 6.2k thinking i was "staying in the powerband" and ran a 15.29 @ 89.So I was in shock that my car had became that much quicker with basiclly 1 mod(ypipe)
I let the car cool and ran again but i switched my back wheels(16" SSR's) for my brothers front wheels(19" RH) so he could try and get quicker times.
Now here's where it gets weird. I ran a 15.012 @ 93.30 and went right behind that with a 15.058@92.01.
My 60' was a 2.33 and a 2.37 for those 2 but for the slower runs it was a 2.27 and a 2.29
NOW HERE'S THE QUESTION
Now does that mean if i would have kept the SSR's on the back, i would have gotten another 2.2x 60' therefore resulting in a 14.9x pass or would it have only affected my 60' ft?
p.s. i ran with no back seat or pass. seat, empty trunk except 1200w amp and misc stuff.
Please help me understand this
Aaron
Quote:
I'd say that was the best mod you did to get these times. Temps were a factor as well... MD middle of Aug. compared to this weekend which was what high 50s maybe?Originally Posted by ghostmax301
I have replaced my knock sensor
+1 on posting the slip or give us a full breakdown on times and congrats.
my scanner is down so I'll post everything
1st run 7:39pm (15"steelies on front,SSR 16" on back)
R/T - .710
60' - 2.291
330' - 6.424
1/8 - 9.768
MPH - 73.09
1000 - 12.656
1/4 - 15.126
MPH - 92.01
2nd run 8:00pm
R/T - . 611
60' - 2.270
330' - 6.466
1/8 - 9.857
MPH - 73.07
1000 - 12.781
1/4 - 15.294
MPH - 89.77
3rd run 9:28pm (steelies on front 15",19" RH on back)
R/T - 642
60' - 2.333
330 - 6.408
1/8 - 9.711
MPH - 73.75
1000 - 12.571
1/4 - 15.012
MPH - 93.30
4th run 10:30pm (last run, i have a drop resistor mod and went it hit 2nd gear it went out of the groove might have knock off a fraction or so from the steering)
R/T - .497
60' - 2.347
300' - 6.414
1/8 - 9.731
MPH - 74.49
1000 - 12.604
1/4 - 15.058
MPH - 92.01
THERE YA' GO..
1st run 7:39pm (15"steelies on front,SSR 16" on back)
R/T - .710
60' - 2.291
330' - 6.424
1/8 - 9.768
MPH - 73.09
1000 - 12.656
1/4 - 15.126
MPH - 92.01
2nd run 8:00pm
R/T - . 611
60' - 2.270
330' - 6.466
1/8 - 9.857
MPH - 73.07
1000 - 12.781
1/4 - 15.294
MPH - 89.77
3rd run 9:28pm (steelies on front 15",19" RH on back)
R/T - 642
60' - 2.333
330 - 6.408
1/8 - 9.711
MPH - 73.75
1000 - 12.571
1/4 - 15.012
MPH - 93.30
4th run 10:30pm (last run, i have a drop resistor mod and went it hit 2nd gear it went out of the groove might have knock off a fraction or so from the steering)
R/T - .497
60' - 2.347
300' - 6.414
1/8 - 9.731
MPH - 74.49
1000 - 12.604
1/4 - 15.058
MPH - 92.01
THERE YA' GO..
lol. no I think i just might have a factory freak
111k miles.... ALSO with a busted ball joint, 2 bad motor mounts and i broke a bushing on my control arm when i was there i think..
more problems
111k miles.... ALSO with a busted ball joint, 2 bad motor mounts and i broke a bushing on my control arm when i was there i think..
more problemsQuote:
with a sunroofOriginally Posted by TurTLe*
none of that affects the speed of your car. just the ride. helps that you have the lightest maxima aviable. 95 GXE.

Senior Member
wow nice times man! on your 15.012 run a better 60ft(2.2) would have brought you into the 14's! Thats better then what a lot of 5spds seem to be running with y pipe.
Senior Member
Quote:
111k miles.... ALSO with a busted ball joint, 2 bad motor mounts and i broke a bushing on my control arm when i was there i think..
more problems
Yeah well we both do. You almost got me there with that 15.0. I ran a 14.9 with the same mods as you so if you keep trying you may hit the 14's. I need to hit the track again soon before you catch me.Originally Posted by ghostmax301
lol. no I think i just might have a factory freak
111k miles.... ALSO with a busted ball joint, 2 bad motor mounts and i broke a bushing on my control arm when i was there i think..
more problems
Thanks blkonblkse!!
LOL @ ajcool Im gunning for you and Jp, i the track was open year round i would be shooting for 14.2-14.6 for winter
, but i have a brake!! summer = turbo maybe, nitrous maybe, maybe 13's 
Yea i got it off ebay. $200 shipped, i thought it was a deal but i think its that much from warpspeed direct lol...o well
Yea i did get a code, then decided to change it but i could tell, it was bad for awhile, before i got the code. I guess it was a ghost code.
LOL @ ajcool Im gunning for you and Jp, i the track was open year round i would be shooting for 14.2-14.6 for winter
, but i have a brake!! summer = turbo maybe, nitrous maybe, maybe 13's 
Yea i got it off ebay. $200 shipped, i thought it was a deal but i think its that much from warpspeed direct lol...o well
Yea i did get a code, then decided to change it but i could tell, it was bad for awhile, before i got the code. I guess it was a ghost code.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ghostmax301
Hey all. About 2 months ago, i ran my car for the 1st time with no interior(pass seat or back) and empty trunk and ran a 16.6 and a 16.5.
Quote:
added a cone filter(popcharger) and a Warpspeed Y. I went the track again, and fresh off the road i ran a 15.12 @ 92 manumaticing it at about 6.5k. I hot lapped and ran again but shifted at about 6.2k thinking i was "staying in the powerband" and ran a 15.29 @ 89.
Originally Posted by ghostmax301
Now 2 months later, I have replaced my knock sensor
added a cone filter(popcharger) and a Warpspeed Y. I went the track again, and fresh off the road i ran a 15.12 @ 92 manumaticing it at about 6.5k. I hot lapped and ran again but shifted at about 6.2k thinking i was "staying in the powerband" and ran a 15.29 @ 89.
Quote:
I let the car cool and ran again but i switched my back wheels(16" SSR's) for my brothers front wheels(19" RH) so he could try and get quicker times.
Now here's where it gets weird. I ran a 15.012 @ 93.30 and went right behind that with a 15.058@92.01.
My 60' was a 2.33 and a 2.37 for those 2 but for the slower runs it was a 2.27 and a 2.29
? weird ?Originally Posted by ghostmax301
So I was in shock that my car had became that much quicker with basically 1 mod (ypipe)I let the car cool and ran again but i switched my back wheels(16" SSR's) for my brothers front wheels(19" RH) so he could try and get quicker times.
Now here's where it gets weird. I ran a 15.012 @ 93.30 and went right behind that with a 15.058@92.01.
My 60' was a 2.33 and a 2.37 for those 2 but for the slower runs it was a 2.27 and a 2.29
Quote:
Now does that mean if i would have kept the SSR's on the back, i would have gotten another 2.2x 60' therefore resulting in a 14.9x pass or would it have only affected my 60' ft?
try again at track to answer ? no way to knowOriginally Posted by ghostmax301
NOW HERE'S THE QUESTIONNow does that mean if i would have kept the SSR's on the back, i would have gotten another 2.2x 60' therefore resulting in a 14.9x pass or would it have only affected my 60' ft?
Quote:
i like the weight reduction, but out of pure curiousity, what were the misc. items ? rofl ! you should have taken out the 1200 w amp and sat it down in the pits, lol ! that must have been 15 lbs right there.Originally Posted by ghostmax301
p.s. i ran with no back seat or pass. seat, empty trunk except 1200w amp and misc stuff.
all kidding aside nice run ! leave all that misc stuff and the amp at home, grab that 14 second slip, then hit burger king and party !
I hoping with a ts ecu, y-pipe, cai, and some weight rduction that I nail a 14 in my auto. The only thing is that I never dragged a auto?? How the hell do you stage? Anybody?
NWP Engineering.com
Quote:
I don't think I understand your question. You mean you've been to the track with a manual, but not an auto and you are unsure how to stage with an auto?Originally Posted by babymac
I hoping with a ts ecu, y-pipe, cai, and some weight rduction that I nail a 14 in my auto. The only thing is that I never dragged a auto?? How the hell do you stage? Anybody?
The same way you pull up to a stop light. Foot on the brake, let the car creep forward until you see the first yellow bulb come on. Then, creep forward a few more inches until the 2nd yellow comes on. Then sit there and wait for the amber bulbs to count down. Stomp on the gas right ON the 3rd amber bulb. If you have traction issues, launch with half throttle, then 1 second later, go full throttle. Just get to know your car and you should see 2.2s easily on street tires with your automatic.
Quote:
The same way you pull up to a stop light. Foot on the brake, let the car creep forward until you see the first yellow bulb come on. Then, creep forward a few more inches until the 2nd yellow comes on. Then sit there and wait for the amber bulbs to count down. Stomp on the gas right ON the 3rd amber bulb. If you have traction issues, launch with half throttle, then 1 second later, go full throttle. Just get to know your car and you should see 2.2s easily on street tires with your automatic.
What's so hard to understand? I have never staged a auto only manual's. So what rpm shold I hold at? That was the real question I should have asked because all cars are different as to launching. I used to get 2.0's on my stock 17inch wheels on my sentra spec V that I ran 14.5's@95mph with all day, so I know how to do a manual. Just never ran a auto.Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
I don't think I understand your question. You mean you've been to the track with a manual, but not an auto and you are unsure how to stage with an auto?The same way you pull up to a stop light. Foot on the brake, let the car creep forward until you see the first yellow bulb come on. Then, creep forward a few more inches until the 2nd yellow comes on. Then sit there and wait for the amber bulbs to count down. Stomp on the gas right ON the 3rd amber bulb. If you have traction issues, launch with half throttle, then 1 second later, go full throttle. Just get to know your car and you should see 2.2s easily on street tires with your automatic.
NWP Engineering.com
Quote:
Ohh ok! I gotcha. You said "stage" not "launch". That is why I didn't understand why anybody would ask such a question. B/c with an AT, you would stage exactly the same as you would with a manual.Originally Posted by babymac
What's so hard to understand? I have never staged a auto only manual's. So what rpm shold I hold at? That was the real question I should have asked because all cars are different as to launching. I used to get 2.0's on my stock 17inch wheels on my sentra spec V that I ran 14.5's@95mph with all day, so I know how to do a manual. Just never ran a auto.
But now about launching, it's a big difference. Launching with an automatic is pretty simple once you know what works best for your car. If traction isn't an issue, I would hold the brake firmly, rev it to only 1200rpm, then when it's time to go, just release the brake and stomp on the throttle.
Some have had better luck with stalling it up as high as it will go (around 2K rpm for the stock torque converter) and stomping on the throttle. But I have found that causes you to bog ever so slightly after you spin the tires.
If traction IS an issue, then sit at the line while idling (750rpm) and smoothly go wide open throttle. Like I said in my other post, you can smoothly go to half throttle and soon after that, go full throttle. Try your best not hear more than a couple TINY chirps of the tires.
Quote:
But now about launching, it's a big difference. Launching with an automatic is pretty simple once you know what works best for your car. If traction isn't an issue, I would hold the brake firmly, rev it to only 1200rpm, then when it's time to go, just release the brake and stomp on the throttle.
Some have had better luck with stalling it up as high as it will go (around 2K rpm for the stock torque converter) and stomping on the throttle. But I have found that causes you to bog ever so slightly after you spin the tires.
If traction IS an issue, then sit at the line while idling (750rpm) and smoothly go wide open throttle. Like I said in my other post, you can smoothly go to half throttle and soon after that, go full throttle. Try your best not hear more than a couple TINY chirps of the tires.
Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
Ohh ok! I gotcha. You said "stage" not "launch". That is why I didn't understand why anybody would ask such a question. B/c with an AT, you would stage exactly the same as you would with a manual.But now about launching, it's a big difference. Launching with an automatic is pretty simple once you know what works best for your car. If traction isn't an issue, I would hold the brake firmly, rev it to only 1200rpm, then when it's time to go, just release the brake and stomp on the throttle.
Some have had better luck with stalling it up as high as it will go (around 2K rpm for the stock torque converter) and stomping on the throttle. But I have found that causes you to bog ever so slightly after you spin the tires.
If traction IS an issue, then sit at the line while idling (750rpm) and smoothly go wide open throttle. Like I said in my other post, you can smoothly go to half throttle and soon after that, go full throttle. Try your best not hear more than a couple TINY chirps of the tires.
Thnaks for the tips. I'm sorry i worded it wrong I should have said launch.
aaron, im gunning for that 13.79 this season ! cant have the 3rd gen shaming my 4th gen ! rofl !
NWP Engineering.com
Quote:
Well, I am gunning for a 13.5 this winter. I still have a lot of work to do including removing my airbags and putting a light steering wheel on. I'm sure I can find 30 more pounds to lose elsewhere. I know I race with my front and rear sway bars. I have never gotten around to removing those for the track.Originally Posted by Ceasars Chariot
aaron, im gunning for that 13.79 this season ! cant have the 3rd gen shaming my 4th gen ! rofl !
I also am still running on stock ECU. A properly tuned race fuel ECU program should make me at least 1 tenth faster. I hope I can get this Zemulator thing working by the end of the winter. I am meeting Ash in a few weeks to get him motivated again.
wow, thats a weight reduction (everything you did with your car, im looking at your advatar)
misc things were text books, 4way wrench, jumper cables amp, wiring(
)pair of shoes and a coat.
misc things were text books, 4way wrench, jumper cables amp, wiring(
)pair of shoes and a coat.wow this gives me hope, I ran a 15.076 with a bad knock sensor. so I guess judging by his results I should run low 14's with it replaced
people like u make me sick, cuz i could barely break 16s in my auto with more mods than that