I went to the track tonight with another org member and ran a new pb, my previous pb was a 15.076 but I had a bad k/s

Mods at the time: bad k/s, y-pipe and a 55shot of nitrous

New mods good k/s, y-pipe, a 65shot of nitrous and bottle warmer

times:
r/t - .232
60ft - 2.048
330 - 5.861
1/8 - 9.084
mph - 74.73
1000 - 11.900
1/4 - 14.307
mph - 92.89

Now I just need 1-step colder plug up the shot to 75 and some mazda wheels and 13's here I come

 

wow good shyt. 13's are definatly in that thing.
did you hit that time with your 18's? what tire?

if you hit 13's i'm going for your set up. good luck

 

Nice job. Is that a wet shot ?? Need Mazda wheels/tires like these ? Surprise....

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...3/Dscn0720.jpg

 

good 60' time. What trans do you have? Do you do any weight reduction at the track? I ask because I run similar times but I have more MPH and I'm N/A.

 

I run with the 18's on the back and stock wheels on the front with the stock tire 205/65/15's at 17psi

 

naw dry, wish I had a wet now trying to catchup with you
and yep those are the wheels, I think am goin with 225/60/15's for tires

 

I have a auto with a drop mod, more like I just unplug it at the track and drive around the pits in 1st. As for weight reduction I removed the spare tire, jack and bottom half on the back seat

 

Catch up, huh?

Those are BFGs 225/50/15s - the size those Mazda wheels are made for .... and I can't use them - the car overpowers those DRs badly....

 

Like I said, trying but I did not say when I would get there, I am doning my best to keep up with your posts and learn your tricks, but as for the wheels they should ok for me, 225/60/15's would be better more side wall to wrinkle

So I are they are for sell, how much does the wheel and tire combo weight, cause I heard the wheels only weight 11lbs. And I was going to make a trip to the junkyard with my scale to find out to find out for sure.

 

Yeah, that combo is really lightweight - they're outside in the bike barn, or I'd go weigh them. Notice the M&H slick next to the Mazda wheel? That's my very bestest drag wheel. They are 23/8.5/15 slicks, mounted on American Racing 15 x 8" rims, and the combo weights 34lbs per wheel. They look like this at the track ( I'm the taller guy):

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...heTeam2006.jpg

The wheels are like $80 or $90 each from Jeg's and the slicks are around $300 per pair. If you can use slicks on your tracks, these are better than Mazdas - otherwise the Mazdas are plenty good for what you're doing now.

 

Im next in the nitrous line! I'll be spraying by christmas.

 

Nice times. Autos representing.

 

did you fix the car last night, I'm that when you fix the leak the car will be faster, remember you run about the same but with car trouble

 

Its definitely leaking and causing a major vacuum leak. I have to go get some screws today and use some loctite and seal the b#tch up real tight.

 

I just weighed the Mazda wheel / BFG-DR combination, and the mounted tire weighs 33.6 lbs on my nitrous scale. That's almost identical to the mounted M&H slick, at 34.0 lbs... They are one-hander, you can pick up the mounted tire with one hand...

 

sweet times, those wheels look real mean up front, nice setup ! 13's are right around the corner !

 

Thats more like it compared to your previous run. Congrats, thats right where you should be. and thats an awesome 60'. My run was a 14.2 with 2.3 60 foot. (75shot). Please like Grey has said, i strongly suggest you go straight to slicks, dont bother with DR's. i already got my set of slicks on the stock sawblades. I gotta go to the track asap, everyone is running strong. i gotta bring up my name on the Timeslips section (and try to compete with grey99's best pb )

 

Thanks for the weight thats lighter than my stock wheel and tire by 6lbs a the tire on there is only a 205/65/15, Man I get a total of 12lbs off I know thats good for 1-2tenths right

Do you remember how much your other wheels and slicks weighed seperate

 

thanks alot

 

Most of the time I drive to the track alone and there's really no place to put your stuff at the track when you which there. I do not want to chance chaining my rims and jack to the fence. And when I do go with some-1 they are running too. So for me it's easier to changes the wheels at home and drive over

But remember I am pulling 2.0 and 2.1 60fts on 205/65/15's. I think the 225/50's grey99max has will work but 225/60's would be better with the thicker side wall

 

Hey streetzlegend, I checked out your timeslip and your makeing alot more power then me, cause my 1/8 time was faster but both your 1/4 and mph were better then mine. Which means your making alot more power then me, more then the extra 10hp from the 75shot

What are your mods

 

Nope - I'd have to weigh the 255/50/16 BFG DRs on ASA JS5 7 1/2 inch wheels. These suckers are heavier... I'll weight them later, but these can't hold my car either - I really smoked them last Sunday..

 

Why do you want thicker side walls? Look at the list of available DRs - most DRs have a sidewall from 30 to 50.... Tirerack.com is convenient... Traction comes first from the compound, width, circumference, and sidewalls are probably last..

 

225/50/15's are perfect.

 

Kids - always trying to knock off the old man.

If you can run them, slicks are the way to go at the track, but driving them on the street will tear them up quickly. Playing on the street requires DRs - they're tougher, and the shorter tire gives you a much lower gear to start in - something none of youse guys have mentioned yet. A short wide slick on wide and light wheels is the best for automatics. A short wide DR on wide and light wheels does the same for you on the street...

I've got both, so I've had the experience. Wow. The lower first gear alone is worth it.

 

true but the thicknest of the sidewall helps too, cause you want the tire to wrinkle it helps you to launch. Thats some companies will even advertise how well their slicks wrinkles and grip. That maybe why you are not hooking well out the hole. Remember 30-50series tires are good for roadracing cause you do not have alot of sidewall flex but not good for drag racing.

The compound (traction, and wear rate), cirumference (gear ratio), width (traction) but remember it is possible to go too wide

here's a link to explain better what I am talking about:
http://www.overboost.com/story.asp?id=1337

 

here is a section from the article:

Both Pereda and Moulton recommend changing to a wheel and tire combination that gives you as much sidewall as possible. "The sidewall of the tire absorbs power when you launch the car aggressively," says Pereda. "This goes for a dedicated drag tire or just a regular street tire." The bigger sidewalls on a higher profile tire act as a cushion and soften the shock to the contact patch of the tire helping to prevent wheel spin. The larger the sidewall, the more cushion area there is to absorb shock allowing a harder launch or more power to be applied
This is especially true when it comes to a dedicated drag tire like the BF Goodrich Drag Radial or the Mickey Thompson Sportsman because their sidewalls are designed to absorb the energy which causes wheel spin by being softer so they wrinkle at lower air pressures, making them stretch like a rubber band. "The smaller the wheel the more sidewall you can run and the more elastic the tire is going to be when launched," says Moulton. "But you can only go so small with a wheel and so big with the sidewall before changing how tall the tire is and messing with the gearing or running into fitment or stability issues," says Moulton. So how do we know what tire size and type to run?
A car with modest power doesn't need a huge tire like the turbo cars run. An ideal setup if the car does not have a set of big brakes is a set of 13-inch wheels with the shortest, fattest tires allowed without running into wheel spin problems on the starting line. Like we mentioned above how well the car is going to hook up depends on how serious the owner of the car is willing to get. A set of 215/40/17 Drag Radials will have some serious bite, but they will not give you the slingshot launch of a pair of tall BFGoodrich Drag Radials or Mickey Thompson ET Streets mounted on a set of 13 or 14 inch wheels would have. Now how about those clutches and LSDs?

 

no these tire are not perfect, they are good all arond tire and will pull double duty, but grey99max and a few other are putting down too much power. I am willing to bet grey99max will have better luck with 225/60/15's

just look at his pic the sidewalls on his slick are even thicker than the d/r's

 

Begin personal opinion:

Maybe a 300/60/15.... There are sidewalls and then there are sidewalls, and different traction compounds matter - a lot.

Remember my last visit to KCIR? My first pass was with the 255/50/16 BFG DRs and the car completely overpowered them. I could - and did - smoke them anywhere in the first 3/4 of the track - and they have thick sidewalls. Just not enough traction. I'll get a photo of those for you to eyeball.

I put on the 23/8.5/15 M&Hs for the rest of the day, and things got much quicker out there. Those are true wrinklewall slicks, and the compound is much stickier. Therefore a 13.28 ET and a couple of 13.3s to follow. It was a good day.

I stand by what I said about the short DRs on the street and short slicks on the track.

Nitrous cars need to be able to hook up with the shock of spray - nitrous is either ON or OFF, and my M&Hs can't really hold when coming off the light at 3000 RPMs and going into a 75-shot and then into another 75-shot - still in first gear. Those walls wrinkle down to the rim - they leave stretch marks. If I lower pressure to 12 psi, they "bulldog" badly - shake around - so I ran at 15 psi last time and they tracked straight. That's some pretty expensive experience, gathered over the last season.

DRs are good for the learning experience, and backup use on the street, but slicks are better for the strip. End of personal opinion.

 

No I never mean that d/r were better than slicks, sorry if it came across that way. I just saying if you compare d/r's to d/r's that 225/60/15's will hookup better and give you better 60ft times than 225/50/15's

I posted earlier that your car is putting out too much power for those d/r's and I am not questioning that at all

And I maybe wrong about the photo but what I was saying is that the slicks had alittle more sidewall than the d/r eventhou the slicks are a narrower tire which would mean it's around a 60 series and not 50.

I know none of this means anything without proof so what I will do is buy some 225/60/15's when I get the wheels and post some 60ft times

 

No apologies ever required to me... Now you've got me curious again - I'll measure the three sets of race tires for sidewall height, and actual tread width as well. I'm just about to the point of buying 10" slicks anyway.

I know I'm not hooking up well in the first 330', regardless of what I try. Launching with a 3300 lb car has disadvantages, but I'm not stripping the car down - to me, that's bogus if you claim to be a daily driver street car, not just a "streetable" car. I can listen to ZZTop on the Clarion/6-disc changer/Apline speakers/Fosgate sub while clicking off 13.2s and 13.3s - I did that last Sunday. Shame it's too cool for the air conditioner, as well.

I like these discussions - some of you fellas are starting to really think about the technical aspects of 1/4-mile fun, and new perspectives are always good.

Happy holiday,

Harry

 

Happy holidays to you also

Like I said your setup is amazing that you do not take anything out the car and run the times you run. Anyone can see you have a 12sec right now and can go get the slip anytime you want but your goal is to do it without removing anything from the car

Oh and I looked up the measurements:
A 8.5 tire = 215 and 50 series sidewall= 4.25 and 60= 5.1
A 9.76 tire = 225 and a 50 series = 4.875 and 60 = 5.856

do you know anyone with a 24inch slick that you could try out, this will take some gear out the car and allow you to use your torque better to get you out the hole and a slight gain in mph down the track

 

When you guys are done let me know what wheels and tires to buy.

 

sure thing lol

 

I just measured the M&Hs and the sidewall is 3 1/4 inches from top-of tread to the rim. I don't know that fits in, but that looks shorter than the ones you mentioned.

M&H does make a similar 24" slick to the 23/8.5/15s I have, but I've never seen any around here in Ford-Chevy-Mopar country... Instead of spending $500 for a pair of these, I'm going to concentrate on cleaning the slicks before every run.. I won't have time for this one before Sunday, but I think I'll get two larger 16 ft 4AN hoses and run both from the trunk up to the engine compartment. I'll use an adapter block at both ends to run two hoses up front. This way, the existing connections and purge solenoid will work as before, and pressures at the engine should be higher.

It's acetone slick cleaner for Sunday unless I can find VHT sticky-stuff this weekend.

 

naw it's not worth going out and buying another set of slicks when you already ready have a good pair, but I am interested in see what happens with your nitrous setup. Are you also going to try to lean out the 2nd stage also when you go

 

Right.... I've set the second-stage fuel jet to a 22 instead of the standard 24 size. That should raise the A/F up above 10/1 , at least....

I guess I'll have to get a wideband after all. Or maybe just a few dyno pulls on a tuner dyno in Kansas City...

 

do you plan on going higher then a 75+75 shot if not go to the dyno if it's cheaper. around here it's like 65-90bucks for 3pulls

1st pull you can check how the 2 new nitrous lines are doing
2nd pull change the second stage fuel jet
3rd pull fine tune

I never dyno'd a car b4 so it may not be that easy, but I do know you will have to get some traction on the dyno this time

Question:
I am looking to install a mevi and was wondering if it was really worth it. My concerns are that I do not have a raised rev limiter and with the extra power from the mevi + nitrous I might hit the rev limiter and I do not want to spray into the limter cause it cuts the fuel and this would be bad. Now the question, is the mevi worth it and what kind of times can I look to gain, also can a msd rpm box control multi functions like the mevi and shut down the nitrous around 6200-6500rpm so the tranny can shift without the added stress.

 

Are you manually shifting? if not then you should never hit the rev-limiter with a auto??? unless nitrous changes that??

 

no I will not manually shift but I am just concerned about the tranny not shifting as fast with the added power. you figure most guys are runnig 5-speeds but with a auto you have almost a extra 100hp (75nitrous + 20vi) there is a good chance the tranny will slip alittle.

I just want to make sure I do not hit the stock rev limiter while spraying, if there is anyone with a 4gen auto putting out 100+hp over stock let me know what rpm your car shifts at wot