I didn't want to steal jkpgt96's thread so I made my own. Alright, I've always felt my '02 Maxima felt a little slower then normal. With I/H/E/SSIM/Tune my best pass to date is a 14.1@98mph with a 2.2 60'. Until recently I thought that it was just maybe my elevation because other Maxima's in my area were trapping 94-95mph until jkpgt96 came along . He ran a 14.0@99mph with a 2.1 60'...STOCK!!! So now that I know it's just not the track and the elevation I have decided that there are obviously problems with either my car or my driving so here is my plans:

1. Ground knock sensor on battery
2. Spacers
3. Cutout or unbolt catback (recently these have seemed to pickup 3mph)
4. Powershifting (I have been practicing and feel comfortable with it now)
5. Shoot for a 2.0 60' someway somehow I will achieve this.
6. Try to figure out the best 3-4 shift because last year I was doing this like right before the lights, I think if I could go into 4th a little sooner that would help as well.

My goal by the end of the season is to leave the track with a 13.3-13.6@101-103mph. Now my mods are a little different so here are the differences. I only picked up 10hp from the tune last time because of the timing advance so I don't think being untuned should stop me.

Previous:
Cattman Gen III Headers/Y-pipe
SSIM
GAB
Test Pipe
Catback
Tune
No Spacers

Current:
OBX Headers/Y-pipe
SSIM
Custom Short Ram
Stock Cat
Stock Catback
Untuned
Spacers

I will post my progression as the season continues. If you guys have any pointers at all please let me know. Thanks.

 

I suggest 16x7.5 300zx NA wheels with 245 50 16 nitto DR's.

 

Nittos suck at the track.

Just get some cheap 15" wheels with some 24.5 slicks and run 13s the way it sits.

 

I was talking about using them as street tires. I would just put 4 of them on 4 300zx NA wheels.

 

would 15's even clear the breakes on a 5.5???

 

If you think something is wrong with your car fix before you start throwing more mods at it

also how do you expect your car to be faster when you downgrade your parts

also from what I remember the obx y-pipe is not really 2.5 inches the inside diameter is closer to 2.25

so in other words don't complain about getting wet when your steady pissing in the wind

 

Agreed. You'll see better times when the car's AFR is corrected for headers.

 

nothing is wrong with the obx headers sir.....i have them and my car runs welll....soooooooo... i dont think thats it...and on the new obx headers the y pipe is 2.5....short ram is better for the 5.5 gen dyno proven, obx headers make the same power as other headers dyno proven....he prolly jus has a bad sensor or something silly wrong wit the car like i did

 

im so glad u went with the headers yo... so u can quiet the rattman nutz swangers

 

i had to make some of these people belivers

 

I had to shave my front calipers in order to fit 15" sawblades on there. Jime also shaved his calipers when he had a 5.5 gen. It's definately worth the slick selection for 15", though. I'm running 24.5x8x15 slicks and it hooks off the line with a 75 shot and full boltons. When I get my next project finished (either turbo or big nitrous) I will probably end up getting 26.5x10 slicks and either have my sawblades modified or pick up some cheap 15x9 wheels.

 

reread my post I said the y-pipe not the headers, measure it

and as for something being silly being wrong that was my point, if your car is broke fix to go faster not just throw more mods at it

 

Do you have any videos of your car, especially any taken from inside the car while racing?

If you're getting track only tires there is no reason to get DRs. But if you want to run them on the street and the track get some Nitto drag radials, they aren't the best but they're definitely the most street friendly DR and you can still cut some good 60's on them if you drive well.

 

For the guys that keep telling me to fix my car instead of buy parts: I would but I don't know what's wrong with it, it isn't throwing any codes, seems like it runs decent but obviously not as good as it should. IDK...I just really need to figure something out.

Also I do have a question...I only have a 2* base timing advance and I only run 93 octane...do you think I'll be fine as far as detonation and what not with the knock sensor grounded to the battery, I would think I should.

 

well in the fact that he dynoed the same as rattman then why does the size matters???

 

and they still arent, aint that some bull?

 

Remove mods
Sell car
Buy new 5.5 gen
install mods
run low 13's
WIN

 

hahahaha!!! go ahead,

 

Even if you do not want to risk keeping it like that long term, I would ground the knock sensor for a few hundred miles, just to eliminate timing as your problem.

Also if you like the stock 17's - I think they look good - you can run nittos in 17's. They make 245/45/17's.

 

For the tire situation, you could just shave your front calipers down about 1/8" with an angle grinder (took me about 2 hours) and get a set of 4th gen sawblades for cheap, then throw some 24.5x8 MT slicks on them. Guaranteed 1.7s if you can launch it right. That way you'll have a dedicated set of track wheels/tires and your regular street tires. Better all around.

 

This man is onto something.

 

Thanks for making a new thread about this..but I with the others, you need to fix your car rather than put more mods on it..cheaper and less frustrating.

..maybe I should ground my knock sensor...hmmm...


Anyways, I hope you figure it out this season, I would love to see you run the times that you should (aka faster than my 99.77) . I didn't know my car would cause such a ruckus with you and the car! lol.

Also, for the 15" wheels part. Has anyone tried Mazda Millenia 15's? They have very good clearance for a 15" wheel and weigh 11 lbs!

 

I have a set

 

No it's nothing like that...lol. It's just I always thought maybe the elevation and the track where why my times where so much slower and lower trap then everybody else. Because like you said some of the other Maxima's you raced are only trapping 94-95mph and Epacy that used to have an auto 5.5gen with headers and full exhaust and what not only trapped 96mph so I thought that's why. But then now an actual healthy speciman has ran on my home track and is running that healthy stock I know that it's not the elevation or the track.

 

If you did that you would only need 2, no sense in running a drag radial on the back lol

They clear with a little grinding like some have said.

HAHAHAHA

You could do what I'm doing, and run 26x7-17 MT slicks. Only a 17" wheel fits the 6th gen which sucks, but I'll make it work.

 

I can see the frustration. I sometimes wonder why I am only trapping 95 mph with only Injen CAI, with a best ET of 14.701. Especially when somebody runs a stock 5.5 gen and traps 99.77 mph. But at the same time it makes me want to try that much harder. You will get where you want to be. I just can't wait to mod my car more.

 

I ran a 14.3 @ 98 in my 6th gen. Fujita intake, and block off plate only. Everything else is BONE STOCK!

Slick times are coming soon.

 

Auto or 6 speed?

 

Why the heck did you get rid of the cattmans headers
Modify the obx headers. Change the flex to cat section to a real 2.5"(inside diameter) & most of your problems will be solved.

 

6 speed.

 

Yeah..but that doesn't really help us know if they clear 5.5 gen brakes! lol.

I gotcha...My car is a freak, and I can half *** drive..its tough to compare. But I feel your frustration, I have been there. It does help that I have really no options on the car (in fact other than being an SE I dunno that I have any options) and I am a skinny bastard, lol.

 

nope

 

actually more but whateva...good luck pimpin02max..i hope u get it right

 

Cattman doesnt use a 2.5"ID iirc. Almost no one in the tuning world does... His headers and ypipe are fine, other people trap 3-4mph faster with the same setup anyway.

 

the sawblades are pretty light too, and I can guarantee you they fit with a little grinding:

 

Alright...so the powershifting is a no go from here on out...yeah the tranny can take it but the linkage bracket...that's a different story:

 

I did not ask you what size the cattmans are, I also did not say cattman is 2.5"ID Who gives a crap what the rest of the "tuning world" does.(I think outside the box)
Do as you wish... As I stated above the 2.5" ID flex to cat flange will solve most of his "problems".(gauranteed)
Fyi I have obx shorty's knock off shorty's & long tubes & I have installed cattmans.... I have an idea of whats what

 

some people prefer to go by what they read

 

even better

 

Looks badass!