Edit 4/3/10: Just last night, I was able to set a new record with a 1/4 mile pass of 12.15 @ 113.8mph. I had a 1.86 60'. The DA was 443' and the track prep wasn't the best due to the large amount of street radials that were there. If I want to dead hook with these 20" slicks, I'll need to revisit the track during an actual points race.

---------------------

The NWP Engineering 92 Maxima Project Car sets a new personal best and a new world record for the fastest All Motor Maxima.

60' 1.8838
330' 5.1720
1/8 7.8789 @ 90.02 mph
1/4 12.2261 @ 112.76



The track prep was pretty decent considering the wind was blowing so hard and the temps were so low. Plus, we only had about 20 cars running on the track all day. So the track temp stayed pretty cold all day. But, I was able to get a 1.88 60 foot with just a little squawking of the tires on the launch. My 60 foot times ranged from 1.88-1.90. My highest trap speed was 113.09 mph on a 12.24 pass.

I still haven't weighed my car, but I estimate the race weight to be 2760-2800 lbs with driver. I ran without a Power Steering belt. And I kept the alternator belt and cone air filter on the car. I didn't have a proper engine tune for my normal ram air setup.

My slicks are MT 22x8x15s on 15x8 Rota Slipstreams. My pressure was set to 18psi and since they held pretty good, I didn't lower the pressure all day.

I feel this car definitely will see 11s NA before Spring 2010. I can still remove the alternator and install my ram air setup, which have both proven to show very noticeable 1/4 mile time improvements with my old engine (VE30DE). Also, I didn't have time to play with my torque converter lockup to see if I could lower my time any. I will save that for next time. Plus, I am pretty sure I can shave 1 tenth by having a better Density Altitude. The barometric pressure never made it's way above the 30.00 mark all day.

For more information on my modifications, please see the Project Car section of the NWP Engineering website:

http://www.nwpengineering.com/maxima.html

12.22 Pass

Here's the link. Watch it in HQ!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ViDk2fr8nqw


12.24 Pass

Watch it in HQ:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8xLtKHVUPg


12.30 Pass vs modded Jeep SRT8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jAnvofCIlWU

Congrats on the new all motor record! It's too bad you didn't have more time to get an even better run since you hotlapped that 12.22.

Congratulations Aaron!

congrats

Thanks guys!

Yeah, I did hotlap that run. The track was going to close early and I was forced to do 3 runs in 7 minutes. I ran 12.30, 12,22, and then a 12.24 to finish the day. I bet if I let this engine cool down, I'd shave some time.

12.22 Pass


Here's the link. Watch it in HQ!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ViDk2fr8nqw

12.24 Pass



Watch it in HQ:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8xLtKHVUPg

Awesome!!! No surprise, just like we talked, you are lot more prepared now at the track vs. previous runs(maxus). congrats man, hopefully one day i'll be able to break a record.. but with u and jim in the way it might be tough lol.

Yeah, its all in the weight, i got all else covered. But dont know if ill get my daily driver to weigh as low as these guys, they be driving down the track sitting on a bucket and a rope as a seatbelt lol.

Good vid's Aaron, got any close up ones?

Yeah. There is still much more I can do to shave some time.

No I don't. But that is already in the works for the next time I hit the track, Jan or Feb.

12.30 Pass vs modded Jeep SRT8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jAnvofCIlWU

haha yeah those cars are stripped. Maybe if I get a daily beater, I can strip it down like that. Until then, it's my daily driver going down the strip.

Great job Aaron, I figured you were going to catch me after our run at Maxus. Its nice when it all comes together.

Great job Aaron congrats!!!

whoa nice time. how high is your stall?

Haha. Sorry man.

Thanks.

I purchased a high stall from EdgeRacing several years ago to use with the VE. I told him I wanted it to be near 3000 brake stall and it was with the VE. I still have it installed with the VQ35 engine now. I haven't bothered to brake stall it to see if I can get a higher stall due to the increased power I have now with this engine.

So when I wrote down 2700 brake stall on my timeslip, I was just estimating it for my own records. If I read 2700rpm on my timeslip, I know that I was stalling it up pretty heavy, but not as hard as I could. Plus, I've never attempted to stall up my car and take my eye off the tree to see my rpm. I always like to concentrate on the tree. Also, just like the VE did, the car launches HARD, then bogs, and at 4K rpm, it takes off again and screeches the slicks a little in 1st gear. With the VE and high stall, I believe the best way to launch it is to launch right off idle or at 1000rpm. It shocks the TC better and it doesn't seem to bog as much.

I need more 1/4 mile passes under my belt to find the best method for me. This new engine is WAY different than my VE. So it's tough comparing apples to oranges.

Yeah, man I really think you have the power for faster '60 foots N/A with that VQ35. I was watching you launch and it's definitely the bog off the line that is limiting your '60 foot. You take off semi hard, then it just falls flat for maybe 3/4 of a second before you get into your powerband. Maybe a higher stall T/C would remedy that. If you could launch closer to being in your power band IMO you'd shave .10ths off your '60 foot.

Of course with spraying nitrous, that bog will be remedied by huge torque from low RPM spray.

Yeah. I wouldn't mind going with a higher stall if I was building strictly an NA Race Maxima. But, since I'd like to be able to spray nitrous out of the hole, a 3K stall will work great.

Talking about an all out NA Maxima, I could revisit my 20x8x14" MT slicks idea and shave my calipers like you did to get the 15s to fit on your car.

But I was surprised to see a 1.88 60 foot NA. I didn't think I would crack 1.90. I was only doing high 1.9s at best at MAXUS 09, but my car was producing much less power due to the extremely hot temps.

The reason I asked about how high you can stall the car is because I didn't know if you could leave harder than you already were. If you couldn't then there would be no point in doing all these weight transfer reducing mods that you were looking in to, but since you're not stalling it up all the way as it is (and also planning on spraying) then it makes sense that you will need more traction in the future. Why don't you try stalling it up higher as it sits right now? Or did you and the track didn't hold?

Congrats Aaron.. I see 12.0 or even 11's real soon. Keep up the good work..

I think the best launch and best 60 foot will come from launching off idle. But I need more 1/4 mile runs to determine that for sure.

The higher I launch at doesn't mean more power to the ground throughout the entire 60 foot. But it does mean more power to the ground in the first few feet. With a manual, you can launch high, dump the clutch and hope it holds, right? You don't have bogging issues after dumping the clutch?

You can hear my car bog a tad and then the engine starts to scream, that is my 4K rpm mark exactly. It's like I hit a nitrous switch. At 4K, power hits incredibly hard! SSIM, cams, headwork, etc all contribute to my bad low end power.

My front suspension is not locked down or anything. It was locked when I was spraying out of the hole with my old engine. But right now, I just have rubber spring spacers in the rear. I never removed them since my old engine was in last year.

But when I do start trying to spray a 50-75 shot out of the hole with this new engine, I'm sure I will need to tinker with the suspension somehow. I can set my front Konis to 100%. Right now, they are only 60%. But adjustments require the strut assembly to come off the car. Also, I may try locking my front suspension again if I feel it's needed. But before I worry about any of that, I will just spray the nitrous on the launch and see how the car reacts. It will take a lot of runs to find something that will work the most consistent.

I didn't try launching higher than 2700rpm yesterday just b/c I was running out of time. The track was closing early and they only gave us a 30 minute warning! So I was in the middle of working on my car when they announced that. Then by the time I finished working on the car, I only had about 10 minutes left to attempt a new record pass. That's why I hotlapped 3 times within 7 minutes. I was the last car to race on the track that day too. And last of the year according to what the announcer said during my run.

Thanks. I will continue to hit the track NA while the weather remains cold to see if I can set a new PB. When Spring comes around, I will probably start tinkering with my nitrous kit.

Nice times. If you can stall higher, I would. Even if it spins some, eliminating the bog will result in faster times on a similar 60 ft time.

Nice passes man!

But, that's my problem. The higher I stall, the more I bog. So, in my experience with the VE30 w/ high stall TC, launching off idle or at 1000rpm gave me my best 1/4 mile times. And according to Edge Racing Converters, it's best to launch off idle since that shocks the TC the most and gives you the highest launch rpm and most torque multiplication.

Launching higher doesn't give me more spin since my slicks are hooking. But it does make me bog a little.

But I'm still experimenting. Once of these days, I'll get a chance to hotlap and get in 10+ runs and see what works the best.

You use to race your automatic with the VQ30. Did you ever race using a high stall TC?

Thanks!

That's weird.

That's been the case with every automatic I've ever raced. But only if you get perfect traction can you tell that it bogs. Usually if you brake stall an automatic and launch, it spins the tires so you can't feel the bog. It's tough to feel too, even with perfect traction, but it's there.

And I haven't had enough comparative runs to determine how much of a difference it makes in the 60 foot. Whenever I would bracket race, I would concentrate on launching my car at the same rpm everytime and trying to get the same 60 foot every time. I never tried to stall it up b/c that gave me traction problems with my street tires. But then, I had a stock 1800 stall TC in my VE when I did all my bracket racing.

I did race my automatic maxima alot, but only with the stock converter.

Every other automatic I have made a pass in at the dragstrip had a transbrake and launching from the maximum rpm possible gave the best times.

It seems your car is bogging due to the same reasons you already posted. Same as my car when it was n/a, it made no power until 4500rpm. You either need to figure out how to launch from higher rpms to get into that powerband, or just spray some nitrous at the launch.

Congrats on the great times!

Seems like you will see 11's soon...

Are you using an engine torque link kit on your car when you run down the track?

Yeah. The highest I can launch is what my TC will allow, which is 3K. So if I launch off idle, it flashes to 3K immediately. If I brake stall it to 3K, it starts at 3K and sits there for a split second and then takes off. But regardless of my launch method, my TC will still launch the car at the same rpm everytime, 3K.

All torque converters do better when they are shocked and launched off idle. But, I have to prove that to myself by actually seeing my 60' times after experimenting a little bit.

I wish! Since I have a 3rd gen chassis, the NWP Torque Link will not fit. But I think I can make the kit fit in a 3rd gen if I remove my ABS actuator and drill some new bolt holes in the lower bracket. The upper bracket will fit since I have a VQ engine. In the meantime, I have perfect polyurethane engine mounts and a solid front engine mount on the timing cover side of the engine. But, this solid front mount isn't working to my liking since I tried to utilize two M6 stock bolt holes in my frame. I knew it wouldn't work for long. But, I just wanted to get the engine installed and somewhat drivable. The two M6 bolt holes that I used for this solid mount aren't liking it. One bolt hole is stripped. The other is barely hanging on.

But, the front engine mount on the VQ doesn't do all that much. It just helps support the engine a little bit. But when under power, the two mounts on the crossmember do almost all of the work. On the VE, there isn't a front engine mount since the crossmember is perfectly centered on the engine. With the VQ, the exhaust is centered on the engine and the crossmember is closer to the driver's side of the vehicle resulting in an engine that leans unless you have a front engine mount.

So basically what you're saying is that the higher RPM you launch at, the more you bog? I don't understand the logic there, as you would be further into the powerband right off the bat. Maybe I'm just taking what you're saying wrong.

I also don't see why a higher stall TC would be bad for nitrous, and it would be great for N/A surely. Again, you'd just be higher in the powerband on the launch, and if you're launching at the traction limit already N/A (because of a higher stall TC), you could wait a little bit longer to spray the nitrous (IE set your window switch a little higher) in 1st gear, and still get great '60 foots both N/A and nitrous with the added bonus of less chance of a nitrous backfire. Of course I'm sure your current TC is in good shape, and I'm not suggesting to replace it immediately. I just think it could be advantageous to go with a higher stall when you replace it!

Yes, the higher brake stall rpm, the more I bog. Do not compare it to a manual transmission though. If I launch off idle, the car will not move until the TC flashes. So if I launch off idle or if I brake stall it to 3K rpm, the car will still launch at the same rpm. In fact, by launching off idle and shocking the TC more, I should be launching at a HIGHER rpm than what I would be by stalling it up to 3K. It's just tough to tell since it happens so fast and I'm too busy watching the tree.

A high stall isn't bad for nitrous. But my 3K stall is very streetable. If I go with a 4K stall, it wouldn't drive that great on the street and could possibly lose enough efficiency in order to reduce top end HP. So a 3K to 3.5K stall TC would probably be your best bet with a V6 Maxima.

A 3K-3.5K stall seems to be the best for the Maxima, even if you plan on spraying nitrous on the launch. If I went with a higher stall though, I'd have even MORE traction issues than I would with what I have now. If I went with a 4K stall, it would be tough to keep traction, plus it may effect top end HP due to the TC being so loose and inefficient.

Hey Aaron are you able to tune your engine right? I believe you might want to find a load based dyno and strictly tune the 2500-4000rpm part of your torque curve. I'm betting that with changes to the cam phasing and timing, you could improve torque delivery. That bog you feel is probably a flat spot in the tune. Also you would need to lock the tranny into a gear and probably lock the TC as well.

AFAIK, all high stall converters will bog ever so slightly if you stall it up to the max.

My tune is just fine. I have made countless of runs starting from 2K rpm all the way to redline. The UTEC can't control my variable valve timing.

If it was a problem with the tune, then the bog would still be there when you launched off idle and let the TC flash to 3K. And it would be there when I am doing my full dyno pulls starting at 2K rpm. This bog is a general torque converter bog. It was there when I was running my stock 92 Maxima with the VE and stock 1800 stall TC.

But, this "bog" that I'm referring to is so small that it's tough to notice. I doubt it effects my 60 foot by more than a hundredth or two. But for me, I'm picky enough to care about that .010 in my 60 foot. I even care about that hundredth in my 1/4 mile time.

I didn't have time to play around with locking up my TC. The track was closing early and I was forced to hotlap several times since they didn't give us much warning. I will probably tinker with my lockup my next time out.

NICE, congrats.

way to go bro keep it up

Amazing times, dyno soon?

Aaron the same thing happens in my Z. It took me alot of passes to figure out launching the car as high as I could was not the best thing to do. I pretty much feel out the car and launch it based on how the car felt and what kind of 60 I got the previous run. The stall on my TC is 3200 and I very rarely take it that high. My best 60 came from launching it around 2400 or so. I dont look down to see where Im stalling the car either I launch it pretty much by ear. I know how the car sounds when Im in the spot I want to be. I know its weird but thats how I pulled all of my best 60's including my 1.89.

Launching at the max stall of the converter never seems to generate the best results. Flashing the converter seems to be the best way in launching an automatic.

I want to see an 11 sec all motor maxima! It will happen when you get the launch down!

Aaron, you still drive this car on the street?