Wheel Spin??
01-23-2010, 09:27 PM
#1
Wheel Spin??
Sigh..I need your help, wisdom and just expertise on this one guys.
Current Setup:
96 5spd max, tokico struts, yokohama yk520's 215/17/50 @ 32psi front tires only, rear 35psi??, wsp y pipe. 140k miles..32psi, and new ks.
Scenario:
So i took on my friends 2010 Genesis Coupe, Auto, 2.0 turbo. Ive never done a run with my new wsp y pipe..intial reaction...way more wheel spin then ever before. Before it would spin then just kick out...now it doesnt stop spinning..basically on the 3rd run i tried working with it and short shifted to 2nd, started catchin up to him but then i missed third...
.
So basically he's pulling on me on stop cause im stuck in blasted wheel spin..
Solution??: This is where I need your help..what can I do to really eliminate the wheel spin...i was drop clutch launching at 2400- 2500. I tried 2200 and i bogged then went into wheelspin..so what should I do?
Dont wanna spend like crazy...mostly I prolly think its my dang tires..but other then that anything?, any advice? Are ther cheap good tires for DD that wont spin as much? But besides tires any more details guys? I think Aaron has some torque links or something..dunno if i really need those, but anyways, help!
Current Setup:
96 5spd max, tokico struts, yokohama yk520's 215/17/50 @ 32psi front tires only, rear 35psi??, wsp y pipe. 140k miles..32psi, and new ks.
Scenario:
So i took on my friends 2010 Genesis Coupe, Auto, 2.0 turbo. Ive never done a run with my new wsp y pipe..intial reaction...way more wheel spin then ever before. Before it would spin then just kick out...now it doesnt stop spinning..basically on the 3rd run i tried working with it and short shifted to 2nd, started catchin up to him but then i missed third...
.So basically he's pulling on me on stop cause im stuck in blasted wheel spin..
Solution??: This is where I need your help..what can I do to really eliminate the wheel spin...i was drop clutch launching at 2400- 2500. I tried 2200 and i bogged then went into wheelspin..so what should I do?
Dont wanna spend like crazy...mostly I prolly think its my dang tires..but other then that anything?, any advice? Are ther cheap good tires for DD that wont spin as much? But besides tires any more details guys? I think Aaron has some torque links or something..dunno if i really need those, but anyways, help!
01-24-2010, 12:35 AM
#5
01-24-2010, 01:31 AM
#6
yeah, dont just throw it in gear and release the clutch all the way, find the point where the car gets going and then likes to be given all the torque already in motion so not to spin so crazy. you can slip 2nd a bit too if you get 2nd gear wheel spin. if youre running on the street, i would say you cant go wring with the bfg drag radials with the turtle shell pattern, they grip like hell on the street, for the track there are better options. i dont see a na powered max with a halfway decent driver spinning those, i had them on my turbo max and they were awsome for street.
01-24-2010, 06:03 AM
#7
someone is selling a driver mod on ebay for like 20bucks
I would just take off like your at a light then floor it, remember it's winter and the ground is cold your not going to hook like you would in the spring or summer
I would just take off like your at a light then floor it, remember it's winter and the ground is cold your not going to hook like you would in the spring or summer
01-24-2010, 07:35 PM
#8
yeh ur so rite i woulda seriously done better doing it like that opposed to a launch..sigh..rematch soon then haha, but ill practice
01-24-2010, 07:37 PM
#9
, thanks for the advice tho!
01-24-2010, 07:38 PM
#10
yeah, dont just throw it in gear and release the clutch all the way, find the point where the car gets going and then likes to be given all the torque already in motion so not to spin so crazy. you can slip 2nd a bit too if you get 2nd gear wheel spin. if youre running on the street, i would say you cant go wring with the bfg drag radials with the turtle shell pattern, they grip like hell on the street, for the track there are better options. i dont see a na powered max with a halfway decent driver spinning those, i had them on my turbo max and they were awsome for street.
01-24-2010, 08:31 PM
#11
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For your next set of front tires, try some 235-245 width that are known for good traction. If you want to go with something low priced, check out General Exclaims.
Even with all the mods in my sig, I barely spin in 1st gear with 245/40/18 exlcaims up front.
Even with all the mods in my sig, I barely spin in 1st gear with 245/40/18 exlcaims up front.
01-25-2010, 12:43 AM
#12
http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/overv...dial/1161.html
these are the ones i used to use on the street.when new they handled water ok also. but for track i would use mickey thompsons . but again, i would put them on when i was going to go out on the street to have some fun, not to daily use.
using wider tires is a great idea also
these are the ones i used to use on the street.when new they handled water ok also. but for track i would use mickey thompsons . but again, i would put them on when i was going to go out on the street to have some fun, not to daily use.
using wider tires is a great idea also
01-25-2010, 04:37 PM
#15
01-26-2010, 08:43 PM
#16
Ain't that the truth. My Falken ZE-912s were absolutely useless under 50 or so once they got 15,000 or so miles on them. Nailing it around slow moving traffic from a 20 mph roll would light the tires up so much I'd sometimes bang the rev limiter before the transmission could shift. Now I've got some Bridgestone Potenza RE-050s which are a noticeable improvement, but still a bit slick when it gets under 40.
01-27-2010, 02:38 PM
#18
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My best advice for tire pressure is to start at around 32psi front and keep going down 2psi at a time until you stop getting improvement. I've never done better below about 28psi with mine. I also put the max recommended pressure in the rear (40psi for mine) just for a small decrease in rolling resistance.
This video is a pretty good example of a street tire launch at the drag strip. This was a 2.08 '60 on 245/40/18 Exclaims @ 28psi. Just an easy initial launch gradually increasing throttle at first then flooring it as soon as it feels like it's hooking good. The "feel" of hooking good is just something you get used to with practice as nealoc187 suggested. A little spin can be good if you are having issues with bogging, but that is rarely a problem on street tires with the stout VQ midrange.
This video is a pretty good example of a street tire launch at the drag strip. This was a 2.08 '60 on 245/40/18 Exclaims @ 28psi. Just an easy initial launch gradually increasing throttle at first then flooring it as soon as it feels like it's hooking good. The "feel" of hooking good is just something you get used to with practice as nealoc187 suggested. A little spin can be good if you are having issues with bogging, but that is rarely a problem on street tires with the stout VQ midrange.
01-27-2010, 07:26 PM
#20
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Going lower than is necessary just increases risk and rolling resistance. 18 psi on street tires sounds a little scary, brave man!
01-28-2010, 12:30 PM
#22
I agree on dropping tire pressure in 2 psi increments and the clutch slip method.
Whenever I am too aggressive on the clutch during launch I either bog, spin wildly, or wheel-hop.
My best launch ever I started out spooling around 2500-2600 RPM and then aggressively but smoothly slipped the clutch as I smoothly fed in 100 percent throttle. No bog, no spin, no wheelhop.
Keep in mind though, I am over a mile high above sealevel and with this altitude I probably have only around 130-150 fwhp, so you may need to launch at an even lower RPM, perhaps even 2200-2400ish because you will be putting out so much more torque than me.
Whenever I am too aggressive on the clutch during launch I either bog, spin wildly, or wheel-hop.
My best launch ever I started out spooling around 2500-2600 RPM and then aggressively but smoothly slipped the clutch as I smoothly fed in 100 percent throttle. No bog, no spin, no wheelhop.
Keep in mind though, I am over a mile high above sealevel and with this altitude I probably have only around 130-150 fwhp, so you may need to launch at an even lower RPM, perhaps even 2200-2400ish because you will be putting out so much more torque than me.
01-28-2010, 01:52 PM
#23
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I agree on dropping tire pressure in 2 psi increments and the clutch slip method.
Whenever I am too aggressive on the clutch during launch I either bog, spin wildly, or wheel-hop.
My best launch ever I started out spooling around 2500-2600 RPM and then aggressively but smoothly slipped the clutch as I smoothly fed in 100 percent throttle. No bog, no spin, no wheelhop.
Keep in mind though, I am over a mile high above sealevel and with this altitude I probably have only around 130-150 fwhp, so you may need to launch at an even lower RPM, perhaps even 2200-2400ish because you will be putting out so much more torque than me.
Whenever I am too aggressive on the clutch during launch I either bog, spin wildly, or wheel-hop.
My best launch ever I started out spooling around 2500-2600 RPM and then aggressively but smoothly slipped the clutch as I smoothly fed in 100 percent throttle. No bog, no spin, no wheelhop.
Keep in mind though, I am over a mile high above sealevel and with this altitude I probably have only around 130-150 fwhp, so you may need to launch at an even lower RPM, perhaps even 2200-2400ish because you will be putting out so much more torque than me.
01-28-2010, 11:51 PM
#24
wow im loving the input thanks guys..question...if i lower my psi to 20 or even 18, you think i can still dump clutch without wheelspin? whats the point of lowering your psi if you still get wheelspin, when you can keep it at say 32psi and just slip the clutch?
01-29-2010, 05:49 AM
#26
you're not going to get away from having to slip the clutch if you want good launches. dumping the clutch on street tires, no matter what psi, is not going to produce good results. you have to find the limit of traction and it's easiest to do that with your clutch pedal.
only reason I drop the pressure is if I'm getting wheel hop.
only reason I drop the pressure is if I'm getting wheel hop.
01-29-2010, 06:08 AM
#27
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you're not going to get away from having to slip the clutch if you want good launches. dumping the clutch on street tires, no matter what psi, is not going to produce good results. you have to find the limit of traction and it's easiest to do that with your clutch pedal.
only reason I drop the pressure is if I'm getting wheel hop.
only reason I drop the pressure is if I'm getting wheel hop.
Just an easy slipping launch around 2500-3000 then ramp up the gas as quickly as possible without spinning after the clutch is out. You want to get as close to spinning as possible without actually losing it like stated above. Just keep practicing until you get a feel for it.
Again most street tires will not do much better below high 20s psi for traction. I definitely would never de-inflate mine to as low as 20psi, personally. The reason you let a little air out is so that the sidewalls will flex more, giving you a slightly bigger surface area and also absorbs shock a little better if you wheel hop like neal said.
01-30-2010, 12:47 PM
#28
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granted i have an auto and most of you guys are 5 and 6 spd but slicks are the way to go, if i came off the converter at 2500 on street tires ide spin right through 3rd. with slicks the tires make like 3 rotations then just hook i love them
01-30-2010, 12:50 PM
#29
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Yeah I pull 1.8s pretty easy on slicks (although I know there's 1.7s somewhere soon...) and 2.0-2.1 on street tires. Spinning through 3rd on street tires on a N/A VQ says bad tires though.
01-30-2010, 04:04 PM
#30
how the heck you powerbreak to 2500???
01-31-2010, 07:38 AM
#33
And I personally drop my tires to 23 Psi and see good results for an NA 3.0. I also believe in running the back tires at normal Psi, anything more creates weight that imo cancels out any rolling resistance.
I'm still confused though how a 96 with a y pipe is having a ton of traction issues
01-31-2010, 10:16 AM
#34
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His RPM gauge must be messed up because thats reeeeeeal impossible.
And I personally drop my tires to 23 Psi and see good results for an NA 3.0. I also believe in running the back tires at normal Psi, anything more creates weight that imo cancels out any rolling resistance.
I'm still confused though how a 96 with a y pipe is having a ton of traction issues
And I personally drop my tires to 23 Psi and see good results for an NA 3.0. I also believe in running the back tires at normal Psi, anything more creates weight that imo cancels out any rolling resistance.
I'm still confused though how a 96 with a y pipe is having a ton of traction issues
01-31-2010, 11:53 AM
#35
^^^^ I believe they were refering to this post
01-31-2010, 01:52 PM
#37
id also like to know how an auto maxima spins through 3rd gear... is there some unhidden power that i have yet to unleash??? any auto hear that doesnt finish the 1/4 in 3rd??? (basically you spin the whole entire 1/4 mile???) something dont sound right here
01-31-2010, 02:07 PM
#38
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The unbridled power of a 4th gen coupled with a 4 speed automatic transmission is incalculable. It's thus illogical to question even spinning in 4th gear.
01-31-2010, 03:59 PM
#39
How do you guys know caseyvr6 is not turbocharged or something? The one and only time I went to the track on all seasons with my turbo car, I was spinning the tires at the 1000 mark at over 100mph. That was at only 12psi so about 360whp/360wtq.
Last edited by Nealoc187; 01-31-2010 at 04:02 PM.
01-31-2010, 05:21 PM
#40
That's the reason for asking questions right????