1/4 and 1/8 Mile Racing Talk about track times, launch techniques, strategies, etc. Check out the "Timeslips" subforum for posted times.No discussion of street racing will be tolerated.

12.9 @ 106.9MPH ALL MOTOR 6th gen!!!

Old Nov 9, 2010 | 10:39 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by tookrzy4u192
IIRC i read somewhere that the I30 bbs 15" rims fit without modification on 5.5gens.. you could look into that
5.5 = 11.5" rotors
6 = 12.6" rotors

So he'd have to first convert over to 5.5 or Altima brakes.

Damn you Maximas and your overall mind-altering E/T fluctuating ways of insanity! Damn it. I need to buy a Maxima.

Last edited by 2002AltimateV6; Nov 9, 2010 at 10:42 AM.
Old Nov 9, 2010 | 12:49 PM
  #42  
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Very nice! What does the car run full interior? How much weight have you dumped?
Old Nov 9, 2010 | 02:23 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by 505max94se
How much psi were the et streets inflated to?

Limiting straps will definitely help with your weight transfer problem. You already know that. You might be able to install some 3rd or 4th gen brakes. I think the main issue would be how to mount the calipers. Idk...

Damn that's light for a 6th gen! I bet that's close to what my 3rd gen weighs with driver. Did you remove things like a/c, ps, and/or bumper supports?
I had the ET streets to 11-12psi.
I need to make up some limiting straps badly.
The car has no a/c (never used it to begin with), and no bumper supports. Still running the power steering.
Originally Posted by BobbyB
Badass times dude!
I love the blue tape diffuser!

ups says skinnies should be there weds, so you'll have them for friday.
Thanks dude!
I can't wait till the skinnies are here. Should help it a little more.
Originally Posted by MIKERNM1990
nice krazy6 u first of break 12 sec 6 gen all-motor in the world!
Thanks!
Originally Posted by ayo_i35
Excellent job, those times are insane with little to no mods!
Thanks!
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
if you're gonna do all that weight reduction and aero mods you might as well do whatever's necessary to get 15" wheels on there so you can get a good tire on it. I think some 5.5G guys have managed to fit a 15" wheel on there, right? jime and blubyu2k2 come to mind. Not sure if they did brake swaps or brake grinding or just made sure to find the proper wheel with the proper spoke shape, etc. ET Streets blow. you'd probably be able to run 12.6 with just a tire change.

great time and trap man
Yeah I have to figure out a way to mount the 5.5 gen brakes. I know for a fact that you can fit 15s over them with some grinding.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by 2002AltimateV6
Really?! I would assume the 5.5 would have been lighter. So then it must be from the additional HP and good driving.

Damn Maxima's must be haxxing real life.
I'm shifting the hell out of this car.

Originally Posted by Redline Maxima
Congrats on the great time man. Your car us light as hell with all that weight reduction. My car weighs 3030 with me in it.
Thanks!
Originally Posted by grey99max
FWIW, I was there and looked the car over pretty well. The doors were gutted, along with the side mirrors, the front passenger seat was gone, the rear seat was gone, and the jack was out of the car. The slicks/wheels were pretty light, too. The engine showed no obvious mods other than the mentioned intake and a great looking fabricated exhaust after the stock cats. The custom air intake tube was exposed and I saw no nitrous installed.

Unless there was a RMT under all that blue tape, what you see is what you get.

I don't have anything to hide. I have posted everything about the car.
You are my living proof other than myself

Originally Posted by 505max94se
I was also wondering if 5.5g brakes would clear a 15" wheel. They should just bolt on to a 6th gen.

Hey krazy6, I have a good set of 5.5g rotors and calipers for sale. I'll let them go for $50 plus shipping.
Yeah, there are quite a few 5.5 gen guys that have fit 15" wheels.
Let me think about buying the brakes. I am pretty damn interested, but then I have to come up with money to buy some wheels and slicks.
Originally Posted by jkpgt96
Very nice! What does the car run full interior? How much weight have you dumped?
The car ran 13.3 with very little weight reduction. The car ran 14.0 with full interior and street tires spinning bad.
Old Nov 9, 2010 | 04:20 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by krazy6
The car ran 13.3 with very little weight reduction. The car ran 14.0 with full interior and street tires spinning bad.
The right tires can really make or break you. I when I was a n/a 3.0 on dr's ran 14.0@98 and when boosted 14.0@107 on my 18inch rims and street tires

Question did you disconnect your power steering belt before the pass if not there is something else you can try
Old Nov 9, 2010 | 06:02 PM
  #45  
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hey krazy6 do u use a early shift on redline and what you use launch rpm on track?
Old Nov 9, 2010 | 10:17 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by t6378tp
The right tires can really make or break you. I when I was a n/a 3.0 on dr's ran 14.0@98 and when boosted 14.0@107 on my 18inch rims and street tires

Question did you disconnect your power steering belt before the pass if not there is something else you can try
Yeah, tires make a huge difference.
I still have the power steering. I might take it off the next time I hit the track.
Originally Posted by MIKERNM1990
hey krazy6 do u use a early shift on redline and what you use launch rpm on track?
I shift at redline and launch at redline.
Old Nov 10, 2010 | 04:50 AM
  #47  
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I'm a hater
Old Nov 10, 2010 | 05:08 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by datdude20
I'm a hater
Have been doing alot of that lately
Old Nov 10, 2010 | 09:05 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by datdude20
I'm a hater
I love haters!
Old Nov 10, 2010 | 12:14 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by krazy6
I shift at redline and launch at redline.
you should shift @ 6300 rpm via early because one altima ser stock did 13.9 @ 99 mph on shift on early by youtube, i believe you use early shift maybe 12.7-12.8 @ 107.5 to 108.5 mph also put ice on intake manifold, cold starter, and low temperature maybe you should track @ night? that good point?
Old Nov 10, 2010 | 12:55 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by MIKERNM1990
you should shift @ 6300 rpm via early because one altima ser stock did 13.9 @ 99 mph on shift on early by youtube, i believe you use early shift maybe 12.7-12.8 @ 107.5 to 108.5 mph also put ice on intake manifold, cold starter, and low temperature maybe you should track @ night? that good point?
Alright man I'll keep it in mind.
Old Nov 10, 2010 | 01:19 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by krazy6
Alright man I'll keep it in mind.
try it on test!
Old Nov 10, 2010 | 03:12 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by krazy6
Also, I weighed the car today, and it weighs 3108lbs with me in it. No wonder its running so good.
U SERIOUS ABOUT 3108lbs w/ u?
Old Nov 10, 2010 | 03:36 PM
  #54  
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why would he lie...
Old Nov 10, 2010 | 03:51 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Nealoc187
why would he lie...
about 3108lbs?
Old Nov 10, 2010 | 04:24 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by krazy6
Yeah, like I said, lots of weight reduction.
I only took out the driver side corner light to feed the filter.
Aerodynamics is something most people don't think about. I did a very simple modification and got some great results.

Thanks man!

The rear diffuser surprised me with some great gains. You should definitely give it shot on your car.

Yeah, these tires aren't the greatest. I think the suspension is to blame though. It lifts a lot in the front and squats in the rear. Exactly what I don't need it to do.
I wish I could fit a 15" wheel on the car, then I could throw some 24.5s on it and actually hook.
So, this week I am gonna try to sort out the suspension for this fridays track day.


Also, I weighed the car today, and it weighs 3108lbs with me in it. No wonder its running so good.
Think about Full diffusers of Front to Rear by blue tape and you said that suspension is blame when accelerate, then GET RacingLine Traction Rod Kits about $160, it make improve accelerate?

Originally Posted by krazy6
Thanks man! The whole car is pretty much gutted.
I have been daily driving with this battery for like 3 weeks now and it hasn't given me any problems.

Thanks man!

Think of it this way:

MPH shows how much power you make.
ET shows how good you can hook.

Basically, your mph will stay relatively the same if you get a 2.2 60' or a 1.8 60'.
You trapped 110mph, so with some good traction (1.8 60' or less) you should be deep into the 12s.

This is why you will see fwd turbo cars trap like 140mph and run a 10.8 and then you'll see a RWD drag car trap like 123mph and run a 10.8.
The difference is the fwd turbo car can't hook as well as the rwd drag car.

Hope that explained it.
you are correct! RWD is more traction than FWD because RWD have front is lift and rear have squat when accelerate, FWD have lift on front and rear have squats, but FWD can upgrade Traction Rod Kits lol
Old Nov 10, 2010 | 04:29 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by MIKERNM1990
U SERIOUS ABOUT 3108lbs w/ u?
Yes.
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
why would he lie...
Yeah, no reason to lie about my car on here.
Old Nov 10, 2010 | 04:52 PM
  #58  
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how did u got 3108 lbs w/ u? what you remove weight reduce?
door panels, front seat, rear seat, gutted trunk, bumper support, muffler, and, lightweight FD RX7 Wheel 15"? More other remove of weight reduce?
Old Nov 10, 2010 | 05:13 PM
  #59  
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I would he have to lie about 3108 with drive, my car with full interior, space, jack and etc was around the same n/a and it's a 4gen so a gutted 6gen I can believe

Now if he should 2800lbs with driver thats a different story

One thing I will add be care not to make the front end too light as it will start to effect traction. You can continue with weight reduction but you may need to shift the weight around towards the front alittle
Old Nov 10, 2010 | 05:18 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by MIKERNM1990
how did u got 3108 lbs w/ u? what you remove weight reduce?
door panels, front seat, rear seat, gutted trunk, bumper support, muffler, and, lightweight FD RX7 Wheel 15"? More other remove of weight reduce?
Lets just say the car is fully gutted. I don't want to type out all of the crap I have taken out. lol
Originally Posted by t6378tp
I would he have to lie about 3108 with drive, my car with full interior, space, jack and etc was around the same n/a and it's a 4gen so a gutted 6gen I can believe

Now if he should 2800lbs with driver thats a different story

One thing I will add be care not to make the front end too light as it will start to effect traction. You can continue with weight reduction but you may need to shift the weight around towards the front alittle
I don't think I could get to 2800lbs with driver unless I started cutting the car and swapped the glass for lexan. I am definitely not gonna go that far either. lol

Yeah, the car already spins a little more, I'm not taking out anymore weight though.

I got the 15" skinnies mounted on the rear. 40lbs lighter than the stock rear wheels and tires.

Also, I got some rubber spring boosters to try in the rear this time. Hope they make a difference.

Last edited by krazy6; Nov 10, 2010 at 05:20 PM.
Old Nov 10, 2010 | 05:34 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by krazy6
Lets just say the car is fully gutted. I don't want to type out all of the crap I have taken out. lol


I don't think I could get to 2800lbs with driver unless I started cutting the car and swapped the glass for lexan. I am definitely not gonna go that far either. lol

Yeah, the car already spins a little more, so if I remover weight it will be from the rear.

Also, I got some rubber spring boosters to try in the rear this time. Hope they make a difference.
you go cutting on chassis maybe less than 3000lbs w/ u? lol
Old Nov 10, 2010 | 05:56 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by MIKERNM1990
you go cutting on chassis maybe less than 3000lbs w/ u? lol
Yeah, but I am not going to.
Old Nov 10, 2010 | 06:05 PM
  #63  
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SG-Motorsport 350Z did 2762 lbs without driver! because 350z have cutting of hole on body make weight reduce. u do it?
Old Nov 10, 2010 | 06:56 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by MIKERNM1990
SG-Motorsport 350Z did 2762 lbs without driver! because 350z have cutting of hole on body make weight reduce. u do it?
No, I'm not gonna cut the car.
Old Nov 10, 2010 | 07:11 PM
  #65  
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Lower the front-end and lift the rear. I bet you could use some spring spacers to bring the back end up a tad if necessary. With some limiting straps up front and helper bags (the ones from the Murano fit, I run them on my Altima) you should have a golden setup. That way the front end wont lift, the rear end wont squat and even with MORE weight reduction the rake will put more weight on the front tires.

My setup if interested is:
6th gen Maxima springs in the rear (they're actually a little bit taller in comparison to the Altima spring and spring rate a bit firmer)
Helper Bags for Murano
KYB AGX Adjustable Shocks
Racingline Springs up front
And I'm currently working on a means of mounting limiting straps up front. Overall the setup is firm! The rear end doesn't squat. But the front end lift on the 120 shot is insane. You could easily pick up a used set of front springs and cut them to whatever height you feel is best.

Last edited by 2002AltimateV6; Nov 10, 2010 at 07:15 PM.
Old Nov 10, 2010 | 07:35 PM
  #66  
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Very impressive dude..Good job
Old Nov 10, 2010 | 11:12 PM
  #67  
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man some of you guys really go all out on prepping for the track lol
Old Nov 11, 2010 | 03:08 AM
  #68  
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lol, last few times at the track I just put gas in the car and lowered the tire psi in the front tires

Haven't removed the seats and stuff in about 2years now
Old Nov 11, 2010 | 08:24 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by 2002AltimateV6
Lower the front-end and lift the rear. I bet you could use some spring spacers to bring the back end up a tad if necessary. With some limiting straps up front and helper bags (the ones from the Murano fit, I run them on my Altima) you should have a golden setup. That way the front end wont lift, the rear end wont squat and even with MORE weight reduction the rake will put more weight on the front tires.

My setup if interested is:
6th gen Maxima springs in the rear (they're actually a little bit taller in comparison to the Altima spring and spring rate a bit firmer)
Helper Bags for Murano
KYB AGX Adjustable Shocks
Racingline Springs up front
And I'm currently working on a means of mounting limiting straps up front. Overall the setup is firm! The rear end doesn't squat. But the front end lift on the 120 shot is insane. You could easily pick up a used set of front springs and cut them to whatever height you feel is best.
I bought some rubber spring boosters for the rear yesterday. I still have to find a really cheap way to limit front end lift.
Originally Posted by srad2drag
Very impressive dude..Good job
Thanks!
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
man some of you guys really go all out on prepping for the track lol
Yes sir!
Old Nov 11, 2010 | 09:04 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by krazy6
I still have to find a really cheap way to limit front end lift.
Check Aarons old threads he used heavy duty plastic straps and Jime used cables

Also you might be able to use those frontend straps for motorcycles and atv's
Old Nov 11, 2010 | 09:04 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Nealoc187
man some of you guys really go all out on prepping for the track lol
lol we strip our cars everytime we go to the track and stay at a 1/4 tank 24/7.
Old Nov 11, 2010 | 09:26 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by ajcool2
lol we strip our cars everytime we go to the track and stay at a 1/4 tank 24/7.
That's what I like to hear!
Old Nov 11, 2010 | 02:26 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by krazy6
I bought some rubber spring boosters for the rear yesterday. I still have to find a really cheap way to limit front end lifts sir!

So use a pile of rubber spacers on your front springs.... like me. If the car is already up on its tippy-toes, it won't go any higher.

I tie-wrapped each one to the spring - so you don't spit one out at the track. I actually have Tokico Illuminas front and rear, and when I use rubbers on the springs, the car is about at the stock height but moves very little at launch.

Extra bonus - they're easy to remove later....... Hmmm.. you strip your car down and use rubbers on it. What part of California are you from???

Last edited by grey99max; Nov 11, 2010 at 02:30 PM.
Old Nov 11, 2010 | 04:31 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by grey99max
So use a pile of rubber spacers on your front springs.... like me. If the car is already up on its tippy-toes, it won't go any higher.

I tie-wrapped each one to the spring - so you don't spit one out at the track. I actually have Tokico Illuminas front and rear, and when I use rubbers on the springs, the car is about at the stock height but moves very little at launch.

Extra bonus - they're easy to remove later....... Hmmm.. you strip your car down and use rubbers on it. What part of California are you from???
Yeah, I might just get some spacers for the front too.

Also, that's the only way to treat a car. That's how us Californians do it!
Old Nov 11, 2010 | 05:18 PM
  #75  
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If you spacer up instead of strap down, you might loose some of that aerodynamic goodness.
Old Nov 11, 2010 | 06:09 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by bryan163
If you spacer up instead of strap down, you might loose some of that aerodynamic goodness.
Good point.

I think I am gonna use some steel cable and ties to tie down the front.
I have to figure that out.
Old Nov 11, 2010 | 06:22 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by krazy6
Good point.

I think I am gonna use some steel cable and ties to tie down the front.
I have to figure that out.
Thats what I did. I welded tabs to the control arms and to the frame rails, then I connected them with steel cable. I didn't take any pics though.
Old Nov 11, 2010 | 06:42 PM
  #78  
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I will probably do the same. I gotta go shopping for some hardware. I want something with a quick release pin.
Old Nov 11, 2010 | 06:47 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by bryan163
I will probably do the same. I gotta go shopping for some hardware. I want something with a quick release pin.
I originally made mine with heavy duty d-rings for that same purpose, but they eventually bent and it didn't work.
Old Nov 11, 2010 | 07:32 PM
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found these on djsafety.com. I would maybe weld in some studs and have a washer and cotter pin setup to hold it on.
Limit Strap # 253000
2" Limit Strap, 3-Ply Nylon, 1/2" Bolt-in Fittings both ends.(Also available in many various lengths.Call for pricing)
$18.15

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