How to get good 1/4 mile times.
02-24-2011, 08:35 PM
#1
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How to get good 1/4 mile times.
Everybody has felt the disappointment of taking their car to the track with certain expectations and going home feeling like something is wrong with their car or the person behind the wheel. While that is sometimes true, heading to the track prepared on the right day with a plan can often avert such an event taking place. The purpose of this thread is to give pointers that I've picked up over the last few years from this community and my time at the drag strip, all consolidated here.
1. Planning your track day This can be more difficult than it seems because many factors come into play to pick the right day for your car to perform its best.
-Density altitude combined with the altitude of the track is one of the most important factors to consider. A very hot day can turn your 12 second car into a high 13 second car no matter your skill or prep.
-I start paying close attention to the forecast a week before my track date. Temperature is the most important. So I pay closest attention to that. But I also look at forecast models that predict barometric pressure, which are pretty accurate. Wait for a high pressure to move into your area along with cold, dry winter air and you're set! Here is a useful link for that: http://www.wunderground.com/modelmap...=NAM&domain=US
-Spring when the tracks are first opening and Fall when the tracks are getting ready to close are usually your best bet for cold days that will result in a great DA. Try to plan for multiple track days over the course of a few weekends and let the weather decide which day you actually go.
-Keep a watch on the weather for your proposed track day and use a DA calculator like this one (LINK) to determine whether you want to go. Anything below 1000 will result in great times. Near or below zero for the best.
-Check your track's schedule for days that include both a test 'n tune session and bracket racing. When they have bracket racing going down, especially fast guys, most tracks will tend to prep the surface better making it easier for you to get those good 60 foots than on a regular test 'n tune day.
-Pull extra weight out of the car before leaving. Plan to arrive at the track with around 1/4 tank of gas. Empty your washer fluid by using it all up on the way. Pull out any subs/amps you have. You could go even further and remove the passenger/rear seats or full interior removal if you are serious.
-Check fluids and make sure the car is running at its best. Make sure your oil is nice and fresh. So if you're coming close to your next oil change interval, be sure to do it before you hit the track. Clean your air filter while you're at it. Seafoam if you haven't in a long while.
-If it's a manual, practice shifting fast! This will be of dire importance to you getting good times.
-Leave for the track so you arrive when the gates open, so you can let the car sit and cool down before runs start.
2. At the track So you've made it to your track day, it's a great DA, and the car is running well. Now comes the hard part... Getting it down the track fast.
-While you're letting the car cool down, last minute prep can be done:
-Remove all excess weight that you haven't already. This can be tools, jack/spare, passenger seat, FSTB... Whatever you feel like taking out.
-If you do not have a 3" exhaust already, I have personally proven that you can pick up tenths and 2-3mph trap just unbolting the Y-pipe from the exhaust, even with an after market 2.5" exhaust. I did this by unbolting them, then using one bolt to bolt them back up on opposite bolt holes so they are held apart without banging around.
-Face your car so the hood shades the engine from the sun, and even throw an ice bag on the IM if you brought a cooler.
-Position your car against the wind while in the pits. Having a little airflow through the engine bay while the engine is off has been very beneficial for me.
-Pull out your driver side headlight and let that intake get some extra cold air.
-Let some air out of the front tires and pump up the rears. I normally pump the rears to the maximum recommended pressure on the sidewall. Then for the fronts, I start at around 28psi and slowly go down until my 60 foots don't get any better.
3. In the staging lanes
-If the lines are long, leave your hood open and push the car through the lanes so it does not heat soak back up and waste all that time you spent letting it cool down.
-Watch the fast cars and how well they hook up, one lane might be doing a little better, especially if someone broke recently and they've re-prepped and VHT'd that lane.
4. The water box and beyond
Street tires: If you are on street tires, your actions pulling up to the line can be very important for your 60 foot time.
-Avoid the water box if you possibly can! Sometimes you will have to motion to the track officials that you need to get around the water box and they will move a cone or piece of equipment to make room for you.
-Do not do a big smoky burnout! Street tires tend to get greasy and slippery when heated up too much. Just turn them over a little to get any excess water and rocks/dirt off and pull up to the line.
Slicks/DRs: FWD burnouts are relatively easy since we can use the E-brake, but there are some minor points here.
-Check the manufacturer of your tires to see how much you need to burn out. Hoosiers for one example require only a short burnout, don't waste your rubber doing a giant burnout if it's not needed.
-After doing your burn out, stop several feet before the line and do a quick dry hop to get a feel for how well the tires are sticking.
-Never burn out past the lights. You will drag water with your rear tires and hamstring yourself while looking like a total idiot in the process.
Launching
-Do not worry about the lights!!!! Your reaction time has no bearing on your ET (elapsed time). Concentrate fully on getting a good launch rather than on the lights, it is very easy to get distracted and feel rushed then get off to a bad start.
-There is plenty of advice floating around for how to launch your car and the best I can give you is to practice, practice, practice. Use those bad track days during the summer to do plenty of runs and ONLY worry about your launch while taking it easy on the car the rest of the way down the strip. Figure out what works best for you because there are many ways to "skin this cat".
Other advice
-Write the time and your current tire pressure (and the RPM you launched at if a MT) on each time slip you run so you can compare 60 foots, ETs, and MPH since the DA changes throughout the day.
-Weigh the car if your track has scales so you can better compare to later track days with more or less weight.
-Analyze your runs afterward and figure out what worked best (launch method, tire pressure, etc) so you can get started better off on the next track day.
-Have someone video tape you on the starting line so you can see how your car is behaving at the line.
-Don't hot lap when you're aiming for a new best! Let the car cool down between runs and take a break, watch some other cars run, check your tire pressure and make any changes you want.
Hopefully this thread will help some people out. Good luck at the track
1. Planning your track day This can be more difficult than it seems because many factors come into play to pick the right day for your car to perform its best.
-Density altitude combined with the altitude of the track is one of the most important factors to consider. A very hot day can turn your 12 second car into a high 13 second car no matter your skill or prep.
-I start paying close attention to the forecast a week before my track date. Temperature is the most important. So I pay closest attention to that. But I also look at forecast models that predict barometric pressure, which are pretty accurate. Wait for a high pressure to move into your area along with cold, dry winter air and you're set! Here is a useful link for that: http://www.wunderground.com/modelmap...=NAM&domain=US
-Spring when the tracks are first opening and Fall when the tracks are getting ready to close are usually your best bet for cold days that will result in a great DA. Try to plan for multiple track days over the course of a few weekends and let the weather decide which day you actually go.
-Keep a watch on the weather for your proposed track day and use a DA calculator like this one (LINK) to determine whether you want to go. Anything below 1000 will result in great times. Near or below zero for the best.
-Check your track's schedule for days that include both a test 'n tune session and bracket racing. When they have bracket racing going down, especially fast guys, most tracks will tend to prep the surface better making it easier for you to get those good 60 foots than on a regular test 'n tune day.
-Pull extra weight out of the car before leaving. Plan to arrive at the track with around 1/4 tank of gas. Empty your washer fluid by using it all up on the way. Pull out any subs/amps you have. You could go even further and remove the passenger/rear seats or full interior removal if you are serious.
-Check fluids and make sure the car is running at its best. Make sure your oil is nice and fresh. So if you're coming close to your next oil change interval, be sure to do it before you hit the track. Clean your air filter while you're at it. Seafoam if you haven't in a long while.
-If it's a manual, practice shifting fast! This will be of dire importance to you getting good times.
-Leave for the track so you arrive when the gates open, so you can let the car sit and cool down before runs start.
2. At the track So you've made it to your track day, it's a great DA, and the car is running well. Now comes the hard part... Getting it down the track fast.
-While you're letting the car cool down, last minute prep can be done:
-Remove all excess weight that you haven't already. This can be tools, jack/spare, passenger seat, FSTB... Whatever you feel like taking out.
-If you do not have a 3" exhaust already, I have personally proven that you can pick up tenths and 2-3mph trap just unbolting the Y-pipe from the exhaust, even with an after market 2.5" exhaust. I did this by unbolting them, then using one bolt to bolt them back up on opposite bolt holes so they are held apart without banging around.
-Face your car so the hood shades the engine from the sun, and even throw an ice bag on the IM if you brought a cooler.
-Position your car against the wind while in the pits. Having a little airflow through the engine bay while the engine is off has been very beneficial for me.
-Pull out your driver side headlight and let that intake get some extra cold air.
-Let some air out of the front tires and pump up the rears. I normally pump the rears to the maximum recommended pressure on the sidewall. Then for the fronts, I start at around 28psi and slowly go down until my 60 foots don't get any better.
3. In the staging lanes
-If the lines are long, leave your hood open and push the car through the lanes so it does not heat soak back up and waste all that time you spent letting it cool down.
-Watch the fast cars and how well they hook up, one lane might be doing a little better, especially if someone broke recently and they've re-prepped and VHT'd that lane.
4. The water box and beyond
Street tires: If you are on street tires, your actions pulling up to the line can be very important for your 60 foot time.
-Avoid the water box if you possibly can! Sometimes you will have to motion to the track officials that you need to get around the water box and they will move a cone or piece of equipment to make room for you.
-Do not do a big smoky burnout! Street tires tend to get greasy and slippery when heated up too much. Just turn them over a little to get any excess water and rocks/dirt off and pull up to the line.
Slicks/DRs: FWD burnouts are relatively easy since we can use the E-brake, but there are some minor points here.
-Check the manufacturer of your tires to see how much you need to burn out. Hoosiers for one example require only a short burnout, don't waste your rubber doing a giant burnout if it's not needed.
-After doing your burn out, stop several feet before the line and do a quick dry hop to get a feel for how well the tires are sticking.
-Never burn out past the lights. You will drag water with your rear tires and hamstring yourself while looking like a total idiot in the process.
Launching
-Do not worry about the lights!!!! Your reaction time has no bearing on your ET (elapsed time). Concentrate fully on getting a good launch rather than on the lights, it is very easy to get distracted and feel rushed then get off to a bad start.
-There is plenty of advice floating around for how to launch your car and the best I can give you is to practice, practice, practice. Use those bad track days during the summer to do plenty of runs and ONLY worry about your launch while taking it easy on the car the rest of the way down the strip. Figure out what works best for you because there are many ways to "skin this cat".
Other advice
-Write the time and your current tire pressure (and the RPM you launched at if a MT) on each time slip you run so you can compare 60 foots, ETs, and MPH since the DA changes throughout the day.
-Weigh the car if your track has scales so you can better compare to later track days with more or less weight.
-Analyze your runs afterward and figure out what worked best (launch method, tire pressure, etc) so you can get started better off on the next track day.
-Have someone video tape you on the starting line so you can see how your car is behaving at the line.
-Don't hot lap when you're aiming for a new best! Let the car cool down between runs and take a break, watch some other cars run, check your tire pressure and make any changes you want.
Hopefully this thread will help some people out. Good luck at the track
Last edited by sparks03max; 10-29-2011 at 11:34 PM.
Very nice and useful....
02-25-2011, 03:13 PM
#4
Nice writeup! It seems like you covered just about everything. Here are a couple small things I thought of myself that could contribute.
I like to position my car against the wind while in the pits. Having a little airflow through the engine bay while the engine is off has been very beneficial for me.
Also, I agree that density altitude is by far the single most important thing that people overlook when comparing track times from a different day. I start paying close attention to the forecast a week before my track date. Temperature is the most important. So I pay closest attention to that. But I also look at forecast models that predict barometric pressure, which are pretty accurate. Wait for a high pressure to move into your area along with cold, dry winter air and you're set! Here is a useful link for that: http://www.wunderground.com/modelmap...=NAM&domain=US
Also, I like to make sure my oil is nice and fresh. So if you're coming close to your next oil change interval, be sure to do it before you hit the track. Clean your air filter while you're at it.
I like to position my car against the wind while in the pits. Having a little airflow through the engine bay while the engine is off has been very beneficial for me.
Also, I agree that density altitude is by far the single most important thing that people overlook when comparing track times from a different day. I start paying close attention to the forecast a week before my track date. Temperature is the most important. So I pay closest attention to that. But I also look at forecast models that predict barometric pressure, which are pretty accurate. Wait for a high pressure to move into your area along with cold, dry winter air and you're set! Here is a useful link for that: http://www.wunderground.com/modelmap...=NAM&domain=US
Also, I like to make sure my oil is nice and fresh. So if you're coming close to your next oil change interval, be sure to do it before you hit the track. Clean your air filter while you're at it.
02-25-2011, 10:16 PM
#5
DO NOT DO BUSINESS WITH THIS MEMBER - OWES PEOPLE MONEY
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 3,468
Nice writeup! It seems like you covered just about everything. Here are a couple small things I thought of myself that could contribute.
I like to position my car against the wind while in the pits. Having a little airflow through the engine bay while the engine is off has been very beneficial for me.
Also, I agree that density altitude is by far the single most important thing that people overlook when comparing track times from a different day. I start paying close attention to the forecast a week before my track date. Temperature is the most important. So I pay closest attention to that. But I also look at forecast models that predict barometric pressure, which are pretty accurate. Wait for a high pressure to move into your area along with cold, dry winter air and you're set! Here is a useful link for that: http://www.wunderground.com/modelmap...=NAM&domain=US
Also, I like to make sure my oil is nice and fresh. So if you're coming close to your next oil change interval, be sure to do it before you hit the track. Clean your air filter while you're at it.
I like to position my car against the wind while in the pits. Having a little airflow through the engine bay while the engine is off has been very beneficial for me.
Also, I agree that density altitude is by far the single most important thing that people overlook when comparing track times from a different day. I start paying close attention to the forecast a week before my track date. Temperature is the most important. So I pay closest attention to that. But I also look at forecast models that predict barometric pressure, which are pretty accurate. Wait for a high pressure to move into your area along with cold, dry winter air and you're set! Here is a useful link for that: http://www.wunderground.com/modelmap...=NAM&domain=US
Also, I like to make sure my oil is nice and fresh. So if you're coming close to your next oil change interval, be sure to do it before you hit the track. Clean your air filter while you're at it.
Last edited by sparks03max; 10-29-2011 at 11:32 PM.
02-28-2011, 11:41 AM
#6
03-03-2011, 06:49 PM
#8
DO NOT DO BUSINESS WITH THIS MEMBER - OWES PEOPLE MONEY
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 3,468
Yep I go through a long mental list trying to get everything right. Even filling up the back tires to max pressure makes a nice difference in the trap.
03-08-2011, 12:49 PM
#9
Nice write-up!
Reaction times are not a factor in your ET..that I think is such a huge misconception that most newbs do not realize. It is astonishing to hear how many people think that a better RT will help their ET. Especially on busy tracks, just take your time and make it count, as you never know how many passes you might get on a busy night.
Reaction times are not a factor in your ET..that I think is such a huge misconception that most newbs do not realize. It is astonishing to hear how many people think that a better RT will help their ET. Especially on busy tracks, just take your time and make it count, as you never know how many passes you might get on a busy night.
03-08-2011, 01:01 PM
#10
Nice write-up!
Reaction times are not a factor in your ET..that I think is such a huge misconception that most newbs do not realize. It is astonishing to hear how many people think that a better RT will help their ET. Especially on busy tracks, just take your time and make it count, as you never know how many passes you might get on a busy night.
Reaction times are not a factor in your ET..that I think is such a huge misconception that most newbs do not realize. It is astonishing to hear how many people think that a better RT will help their ET. Especially on busy tracks, just take your time and make it count, as you never know how many passes you might get on a busy night.
03-30-2012, 01:06 PM
#11
I can totally agree with this thread. My first time at the track was so disappointing that when I got the time slip I confused my time with my oppnent. "Embarrased"I only did a 15.5 when everyone said 6thgens run high 14's. I ran the car as hard as I can but no matter what she only did 15.5. But this year is different with all the bolt on's I aquired since then. I'm hoping to beat that time by a good second plus 
04-01-2012, 09:39 PM
#12
So this is a stupid question, but I mean I wouldn't think removing the headlight would really help that much if your battery is still in the factory position would it? All of that air would just be getting blocked by it?
04-18-2012, 05:57 PM
#13
Banned
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 85
Thanks for the great writeup. One thing to do is keep an eye on where you shift/land in each gear. Compare times and adjust accordingly. If I land under a certain rpm, I know the run is pretty much done with. This can help you evaluate your shifting ability.
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