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1st and 2nd Gen forum FAQ

Old 11-22-2002, 03:16 PM
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1st and 2nd Gen forum FAQ

Need Body Parts

Parts a Million has a lot of parts for our cars as well

More information about our maximas than you can think of
Here it is

Needing Ecu codes for your 85-88 2nd gen.
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Old 11-24-2002, 10:58 PM
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1st gen stats

All taken from a 1981 model

MRSP Price: $9979 + $150 Destination (There were no options available, it came fully loaded) This was it, nothing could be added, unless the dealer sold you under-coating or racing stripes or other crap. As I understand it, when the car first was introduced, this was the case. The diesel and manual tranny were not options, yet.

Engine: 6 inline, iron block & aluminum head
Bore & stroke: 3.27 x 2.90 in (83x74mm)
Displacement: 146cu. in. (2390cc) 2.4liter
Compression ratio: 8:9:1
Fuel system: EC/Bosch L-Jetronic fuel injection
Valve gear: chain-driven overhead cam, solid lifter
Power (SAE net): 120 bhp @ 5200 rpm
Torque (SAE net): 134lbs:ft. @ 2800rpm
Redline: 7000 rpm
3-speed auto transmission
Final-drive ration: 3.54:1

Wheelbase: 103.3 in.
Track F/R: 54.7in / 53.9in.
Length: 183.3 in.
Width: 65.2 in.
Height: 54.5 in.
Ground Clearance: 6.7 in.
Curb weight: 2880 lbs.
Weight distribution (F/R): 52.8% / 47.2%
Fuel capacity: 16.4 gal.
Oil capacity: 5.2 qt.
Water capacity: 11.6 qt.

SAE volumes:
front seat: 49 cu. ft.
rear seat: 34 cu. ft.
trunk: 10 cu. ft.

F: ind. MacPherson strut, coil springs, anti-sway bar
R: ind. semi-training arm, coil springs, anti-sway bar
Steering type: rack-and-pinion, power-assist
Turns, lock-to-lock: 3.1
Turning circle, wall to wall: 37.7 ft.

Front brakes: 9.8 x 0.7 in vented disc
Rear brakes: 10.6 x 0.4 in solid disc
Power assist: Vacuum
Wheel size: 5.5 x 14 in.
Wheel type: cast aluminum
Tire make: Bridgestone RD 113 Steel-belt
Tire size: 185/70SR-14

Zero to 30mph: 3.9 sec
Zero to 40mph: 5.7 sec
Zero to 50mph: 7.8 sec
Zero to 60mph: 10.5 sec
Zero to 70mph: 14.2 sec
Zero to 80mph: 18.6 sec
Zero to 90mph: 26.3 sec
Standing 1/4 mile: 17.9 sec @ 79 mph
Top speed: 111mph
Braking: 70-0 mph @ impending lockup: 207 ft.
Fuel economy: EPA city: 22mpg, EPA highway: 27mpg
Car and Driver observed fuel economy: 18mpg
Interior sound levels: idle: 48dBA, Full-throttle: 75dBA, 70mph: 73dBA

The 1981 Maxima was THE FIRST car to use a voice-system in a production car in the world.

Stats based off of 1984 yr.

1984 E.P.A Est. Milage
36 Hwy/23 City -- 5 speed, 3.545 final drive ratio
34 Hwy/23 City -- Auto 4-speed overdrive, 3.700 fdr

Power 4-wheel disc brakes standard on the sedan
Rack-and-pinion power steering
Ind. MacPherson struts with zero scrub radius in the front
Fully ind. semi-trailing arm in the rear
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Old 11-25-2002, 02:41 PM
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Rear Brake Caliper Rebuild

I had mentioned in a previous thread that I would post about my experiences in rebuilding my rear brake calipers. Well, here I go...

First, let me say that if you have never tackled a job like this, don't - save yourself a lot of hassle by either replacing the calipers, or having a mechanic rebuild them for you.

Second, the Chilton manual - either the new version, or the old one, details most of these steps, but negates to mention that the snap ring pliers needed for the snaprings inside of the caliper, for the e-brake arm assembly, are virtually non-existant...we have to fabricate our own from a pair of cheap, LARGE, needle nose pliers, to reach down far enough, using a bench grinder. As a part of the reassembly, the manual also fails to mentions you will be trying to installing these snap rings under spring tension...not an easy task...

To perform this task, purchase the Beck and Arnley rtebuild kit...it comes with everything you need.

OK, here we go...

After the caliper is removed from the car, use a pair of needle nose pliers, and turn the piston counter-clockwise, to remove the piston. Set the piston aside for the moment. If the have not already done so, remove the old boot. There are a total of three snap rings per caliper...two are the exact same size...the third is a little bit larger, and is the outer most snap ring, located in the caliper body. Use a set of snap ring pliers to remove this ring. A spring, cap, and a washer, which is used a spring seat, will come out. set these aside. Now, using your snap ring pliers again (the long ones, that we had to fabricate), reach further down into the caliper body, and remove the smaller snap ring. then, you will have that threaded rod in the center ready to come out - but note, it has an o-ring at it's base, so it'll be stiff coming out. When it comes out, it will also bring with it a key plate, and a much smaller rod. Remove the o-ring from the threaded push rod, and discard it, as well as the two snap rings you have removed. Now, release the return spring from the cam at the back of the caliper, using a flat screw driver. Then, remove the nut that it encircled. This will allow you to pull up on the shaft, and remove the cam plate from it. There is a small, grommit looking seal on the caliper, helping to hold this shaft in place. Once this seal is removed, discard it. Clean the caliper body thoroughly. If you need yto, hone the inside of the cylinder LIGHTLY, and then clean again, to remove any dust/ material left from honing. You'll notice in the hole that you removed the last cam from, there is a series of roller bearings. After cleaning the body, and blowing it dry with air, apply a thin, even coating of grease to these bearings, aligning the open section with the shaft leading to the cylinder. Thoroughly clean all removed parts, except for the piston. Install the NEW grommit like seal (Note, the kit includes a total of four of these - only two are used). Lubricate it with a little bit of brake fluid, and then push the cam bolt through the hole carefully, making sure to keep the concaved side facing the shaft leading to the cylinder. Once that is all the way in, drop the small rod into the shaft at the bottom of the cylinder, which should seat it in the concave portion of the cam bolt we just installed. Then, Install the new o-ring on the end of the push rod, and lube it with a little brake fluid. Now place the key plate over the push rod, and guide it into the cylinder, making sure the little convexed 'key' on the keyplate is facing down, so it'll fit into the 'divot' in the bottom facing of the cylinder. Firmly push on the rod, to seat it, and the o-ring, into the shaft. Using the snap ring pliers, install one of the smaller NEW snap rings - please note that these snap rings have a beveled edge on one side, to aid in installation - make sure this slightly beveled edge is facing down when installing, or it could release while under pressure. This snap ring will hold this previous assembly in place. Now, install spring seat washer over the threaded portion of the push rod. It will not rest on the key plate - it sits on a shoulder on the rod, about an 1/8" of an inch above the keyplate. Now, for a trick we found that helps in assembly. Place the spring cap over the spring, and LIGHTLY squeeze it down onto the spring, just enough to hold it in place. Now drop the spring and cap over the rod, centering it on the seat below. Now, here comes the FUN part (This is a fascious statement). You have to find a way to compress that spring, and it is a tight spring - it has to be, to hold your brakes on. This spring has to be compressed a little, to allow the larger snap ring to be installed. Once you have that much done, set the caliper body aside.

Now to disassemble the piston. Using the snap-ring pliers again, remove the final snap ring, and discard it. Inside of this is a small shaft, with a couple of spacers and washers on it. Pull it out of the piston. Clean the piston well, inside and out, and the spacers / washers. On the small end of the shaft, where it fits into the bottom of the piston, is a small o-ring type of seal. Remove it. Clean the shaft, and then install the new seal. Note the new seal ius not an actual o-ring, and has a 'cut' side, so a cross section would appear to be v-shaped. The open end of this seal faces toward the cam on this shaft, and the longer end. Lube this seal, and then press it into the piston. When you removed all of the washers, etc, from the shaft, there was a small bearing race...install this with the open side of the race facing up, out of the piston. The, install one of the star shaped spacers. Next, install the wave type spring spacer, and then the final star spacer. Now, install the last NEW snap ring.

Now, install the new piston seal into the caliper body groove. Lube it thoroughly with brake fluid, and then set down. Take the new boot, and lube it on the inside lip, and the outside lip. Push it onto the piston. Make sure you have it oriented correctly, to fit the out lip into the ridge in the caliper body. Keep it by the bottom end, not the ridged end. Set the piston into the body enough so you can insert the outer lip into the ridge for it, on the caliper body. Now, using needle nose pliers, push down straight, and firmly, until you feel the piston hit the push rod. Now, while still pushing down, turn the piston clock-wise. It will likely take a couple fo turns to get it set on the rod. Then you'll know, because the piston will turn easily, and within about 2 full turns, will be fully reseated, all the way into the caliper. Now, reinsatall the cam plate on the bolt at the rear, and the nut to hold it on. Then, reinstall the return spring. Now, you're almost done. To ensure you'll have no problmes bleeding the brakes, go ahead and loosen the bleeder valve, just to make sure you won't have problems there. When you reinstall the caliper, remember, you need to also replace the two brass 'crush washers' - one goes between the bolt head the brake line, and one goes between the caliper, and the line.

That it the entire procedure for one caliper. Due to the problems in fabricating the pliers needed for the snap rings, and the spring compression issue, it took me and my dad about 9 1/2 hours to rebuild both calipers. If this procedure is worhtwhile for you, go for it.
Otherwise, I would highly recommend just replacing them with rebuilt ones, or having a brake shop rebuild them for you. Just for a positive note, once we found the tricks involved for us, we were able to do the second caliper in 2 hours...the first took us the 7 1/2...trying to learn the tricks involved.

Rebuild done by Maxwgn
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Old 11-26-2002, 08:36 AM
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Aftermarket: Addco Rear Sway bar install

Its done on a 3rd gen maxima but its the same bar install as done on our 2nd gens. Same procedures and all.

Site is from Lordrandalls install
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Old 12-11-2002, 01:26 PM
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SE, SE- Limited, or GXE?

Heres the difference between the 2nd gen maximas

SE has the Black trim around the headlights, windows, grill etc. GXE has chrome in those areas
SE has foglights(optional), GXE doesn't
SE has a rear spoiler stock, GXE doesn't
SE has black colored side mirrors, GXE has body colored side mirrors
GXE has Keyless Entry, SE doesn't
SE's have Sunroofs stock, GXE's had the option of having sunroofs or not
SE comes with 5 speed stock, GXE comes with 4 spd Automatic with OD
SE came with Sports Steering wheel 4 spokes, GXEs came with 2 spokes on bottom/ may defer on style 87/88 models
SE came with Sport Headrests box looking hallowed out in the middle, GXE's came with cushion headrests

Came in all white
Came with everything the SEs came plus
Front lip Spoiler stock
All trim was white even trunk lid black plastic tip was white and the car had white rims as well
Also they had the Clear front turn signals stock, where as the SE's and GXE's got the amber front turn signals
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Old 12-13-2002, 06:50 AM
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2nd Gen Stats

1988 Maxima GXE (Automatic)
Body Type: 5 Pass., 4-door Sedan(5-door Wagon)
Base Price: $15,599
Drive System: Front Engine, FWD

V-6 Liquid cooled cast iron block,
Aluminum Heads
Displacement: 2960cc
Bore and stroke 87.0 x 83.0 mm
Compression: 9.0:1
Induction system: Electronic Port Injection
Valvetrain: SOHC, 2 valves per cylinder
Max engine speed: 6000 rpm
Max Power: [email protected] rpm
Max Torque: 157 [email protected] rpm
Emissions control: Crankcase Ventilation,
Air injection, Catalyst
Fuel: Unleaded

Transmission 4-spd, Auto, O/D
Transmission ratios
1st- 2.79:1
2nd- 1.55:1
3rd- 1.00:1
4th- 0.60:1
Final Drive ratio- 3.43:1

Crankcase: 4.3qt
Cooling System: 1.4 gal
Fuel Tank: 17.2 gal
Luggage: 14.5 Cu ft

Front: Independent, Macpherson Struts
w/ single lower control arm,
coil springs, Anti-roll bar
(optional) Automatic adjustable gas struts,
Sonar Suspension
Rear: Independent, Macpherson struts,
parallel links, anti-roll bar
(Optional) Automatic adjustable gas struts,
Sonar Suspension

Type: Rack and pinion, power assist
Ratio: 17.6:1
Turns (lock to lock): 2.5

Front: 10.7 in vented discs,
power assist
Rear: 11.7 in solid discs,
power assist

Wheels and Tires:
Wheel size: 15 x 6.0 in
Wheel Type: Cast Alloy
Tire Size 195/60R 15

Curb weight: 3120 lb.
Weight distribution F/R: 54/36%
Wheelbase: 100.4 in
Overall length: 181.5 in
Overall width: 66.5 in
Overall Height: 54.7 in
Track F/R: 57.5/57.5 in

Minimum grnd clearance: 4.8 in

Power-to-weight ratio: 20.5lb/hp (calc. data)
Estimated Top Speed: 118 mph
Speedometer Top Speed: 125 mph

Lateral Acceleration:0.81g

Fuel Economy:
EPA combined: 21 mpg
Average: 24.2 mpg

0-60 mph: 10.29 sec
Quartermile: [email protected] mph

60-0: 150 ft
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Old 12-23-2002, 11:16 AM
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VG30E ECU monitor

VG30E ECU monitor

Guys/gals check out this post on z31.com. That is a very good idea and it would save you from removing the passenger seat. It would be very helpful in diagnosing a problem with the car too.


sent by Nismo87se
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Old 01-03-2003, 07:01 AM
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Adjustable Suspension Conversion to Tokico struts

!86-88 Maxima Strut Conversion!
O.K. Guys and Gals I finally found the Tokico 86-88 Maxima Strut Conversion Technical Bulletin From Tokico. Here are the Tokico and Nissan Part Numbers to covert the electronic strut to the Tokico High Performance setup. Basically this conversion involves removing the electronic junk out and put in a simple strut setup. You may want to double check the part numbers, as they may have superceded - this bulletin is dated 8/15/91. The Tokico technical bulletin number is 02-0691. Also, you may be able to find some of the parts and hardware at your local auto parts and hardware store. Print this list out and take it with you when you go shopping for easier referencing. Remember to unplug the electronic strut computer in your trunk located on the parcel shelf area next to the third brake light connector area, this will eliminate the strut adjustment switch light from blinking. Good luck, oh, and remember to install the strut cushions while you have the spring outs in the front this will elimate that annoying metallic thump thump noise while going over slow bumps (I can't recall the part numbers - you may want to check with the your local Nissan dealers parts dept. advise them that it may not come up on the parts screen since this was a update and see if they can talk to one of the older guys who may have done this update way back in the good old days of the U11 for the information). Last note, if you think you can't perform the operation then you may want to purchase the parts and then seek a tire or alignment shop to perform the modification, the rear struts are not fun and involve removing the back seat, rear side panels, and parcel shelf area to gain access to the top strut mount nuts.

Tokico Parts List:
HB3029 L.F. Strut (Found one at www.carparts.com for $97.80 - type in part number in their part number search engine off to the left side of screen)
HB3030 R.F. Strut (same as above information)
HZ1101 Rear Cartridges (qty. 2) (Found one at www.carparts.com for $54.95 - same as above information)

Nissan Parts List:
Front Strut Parts
54320-05E01 Top Mount (qty. 2)
54043-01E00 Thrust Washer (qty.2)
54329-D4400 Strut Spacer (basically a paper gasket/shim - for 2/88 and on) (qty.2)

Rear Strut Parts:
08915-4421A 16mmx12mm Flat Washer (qty. 4)
08911-64210 12mmx1.25mm Nut (qty. 2)
08915-2421A 12mm Lock Washer (qty.2)
55325-01E01 Spacer Bushing (qty.2)
55320-D5011 R.R. Top Mount (qty.1)
55321-D5011 L.R. Top Mount (qty.1)
55266-D5010 R.R. Spring Seat (qty.1)
55267-D5010 L.R. Spring Seat (qty.1)

Special Tools:
Strut Spring Compressor - rent one from a local auto parts store, get the kind with the safety pin that pops out, not the safety hooks, they always slip off. (or take it over to a tire and alignment shop and sublet the work to have the springs swapped over to the new strut set up).
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