1st & 2nd Generation Maxima (1981-1984 and 1985-1988) Learn more and share information about the 1st and 2nd Generation Maximas.

Turbo a 2nd gen.

Old 12-23-2002, 02:09 PM
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Re: Re: Due to the axles???

Originally posted by MaxWgn
Since we all now know that a 3rd Gen tranny is installable into our cars with little extra effort, I beleive it's possible to locate a limited slip out of a 3rd gen. I know there were limited slip avail in the 4th gen, but not sure if those are compatible with our cars...this would be your best bet in combatting the torque steer. Even then, you will get some, due to the unequal length half shafts.
Actually the 3rd gens had the lsd's 4th gens in other countries had the lsd's but not the U.S.. If you did find one it was a Canadian model. The Fifth gens I believe have the LSD's gens. But the 3rd gens for sure had them on the Later models I believe.
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Old 12-23-2002, 02:16 PM
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Im going to sticky this thread it seems to be an interesting conversation going on and on and on..
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Old 12-23-2002, 09:26 PM
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Re: Splash Pans

Originally posted by maximase86
Hey KALSC,

I was looking at your latest pics. I notice something. where you have your wastegate exiting, it goes right into where the one of the splashpan is. Will you be modifying the pan for the exhuast? I know for sure you don't want to leave that underside exposed to the elements. Ask maxwgn, he's been having issues no splash pans on his maxima.

Sarin
BTW, I thought you could probably use this idea. You can use a firewall side 3rd gen valve cover for your motor, since you have all the intake tubing there, you can easily access the oil fill with one of those. :P

Sarin
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Old 12-23-2002, 10:10 PM
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Valve cover.

Good idea about the valve cover. What I found though with the valve covers that were on the engine as it came out of the 300ZX were that the oil filler cap was on the left or passenger side (firewall side to us) anyway, so it worked out just fine. I have clear access to the oil filler cap on the rearward valve cover.

As for the splash guards, yes, that is something I am going to have to work with. It will only be the one on the driver side of the lower support beam though, so I won't have to worry much about modifying the splash guard on the pass. side where all the belts are. Time will tell.

I have just buttoned everything up, and have all the fluids in. My last two steps are to put the hood on and finish the exhaust. I likely won't get back to work on the car until after Christmas though.

I did put some more updated pictures on the site yesterday though. Some good stuff.

By the way, if there are any specific pictures anyone wants me to take, just say the word and I will see what I can do. If there is something in the pics I have already taken that you just can't quite see, let me know and I will take more. I want this project to be as helpful to everyone who will see it as it can.

Cheers!!!
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Old 12-24-2002, 07:50 AM
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Re: Valve cover.

Yeah, the important side seems to be the passenger side, with the belts. Make sure that side has them. When I go through a shallow puddle of water, enough to splash the belts, they slip like a b****! Then, I watch my volt meter go nuts, and I almost completely lose my steering, with the pump belt slipping...not a fun experience, let me tell you.

One of these days, I'll get a set...prolly about the time I have the engine rebuilt, after tax reutnr comes in.
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Old 01-12-2003, 12:02 AM
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Update

Hi guys/gals. Over Christmas and New Years I didn't have much time to work on the car. There is one new picture on the site, it is of the turbo dump and connector to hook up with the stock flex pipe.

I spent quite a bit of time trying to get things ready to start it up today. The first problem I noticed was that in using the 240sx throttle body, it interferes with the hood. Hmph. Second, I forgot to hook up the knock sensor wire. DOH! Anyway, I tried starting it today and it fired!!! Runs pretty rough though, so I shut it down and am sorting out the issue (timing, air flow meter, O2 sensor, hook up the knock sensor wire, blah, blah, blah). Anyway, I should have things sorted out sometime this coming week!

Cheers!
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Old 01-12-2003, 12:15 AM
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Re: Update

Originally posted by KALSC
Hi guys/gals. Over Christmas and New Years I didn't have much time to work on the car. There is one new picture on the site, it is of the turbo dump and connector to hook up with the stock flex pipe.

I spent quite a bit of time trying to get things ready to start it up today. The first problem I noticed was that in using the 240sx throttle body, it interferes with the hood. Hmph. Second, I forgot to hook up the knock sensor wire. DOH! Anyway, I tried starting it today and it fired!!! Runs pretty rough though, so I shut it down and am sorting out the issue (timing, air flow meter, O2 sensor, hook up the knock sensor wire, blah, blah, blah). Anyway, I should have things sorted out sometime this coming week!

Cheers!

Dang my friend glad to hear its firing atleast. Im sure that car will be running strong in the end with the steps youre taking.
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Old 01-12-2003, 08:47 PM
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Phew!

WOW! I still have the shakes. I sorted through a couple issues and fired the car again today. All I can say is between the turbo whine and the wicked cam profiles I had ground, damn this thing sounds sweet!!!

I just have to bleed the brakes and figure a way to clear the 240sx throttle body then a test drive.

I'll keep you posted.
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Old 01-13-2003, 07:40 AM
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Re: Phew!

Originally posted by KALSC
WOW! I still have the shakes. I sorted through a couple issues and fired the car again today. All I can say is between the turbo whine and the wicked cam profiles I had ground, damn this thing sounds sweet!!!

I just have to bleed the brakes and figure a way to clear the 240sx throttle body then a test drive.

I'll keep you posted.
Damn, that sucks the TB got in the way of the hood. May have to mod your hood with a bump to clear everything. :P At least she be runnin. Don't think any of us...or a the 3rd or 4th gens will keep up once you put the finishing touches on her.

S
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Old 01-13-2003, 03:42 PM
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Test Drive

Went for a test drive today. So far so good, no leaks. :-)

The new clutch is engaging awesome, almost too good. :-)

I am having a little trouble tuning it though and I know it has to do with the cams I had ground. I think for tuning sakes, I am going to install an air/fuel ratio guage as well.

Sounds good and sure pulls when the turbo spools up!!! Crappy part is I couldn't do too much 'cause it snowed here last night!!! OF ALL NIGHTS!!!

I found a neat article from the z31.com site that guys did to adjust thier afm's, check it out.

http://www.z31.com/oboard/archives/view.pl?96
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Old 01-13-2003, 09:51 PM
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Re: Test Drive

Sound's like you got the hood on? What you do about the throttle body? Also, when you gonna give us some pics of your car? I wanna see how much of a sleeper this car's gonna be.

S
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Old 01-17-2003, 03:12 PM
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Runs good.

Phew!!! After several tests both with a multimeter and a piece of tubing, I have corrected a few problems. First, intermittnet connection on my cylinder head temp. sensor. BUT, the biggest issue was a major leak in the crossover pipe that connects the two ex. manifolds. No wonder I couldn't tune the sucker. With an ex. breach pre-02 sensor, the sensor would get bad samples.

Anyway, I am pulling 7psi no problem. I figured it would be between 6 and 8 stock. Man, it sure is cool to hear the turbo in their.

As for the hood, yep, got her closed. I had removed the underhood lining awhile back to help reduce underhood temps. In order to make the hood close while retaining the 240sx TB (60mm for those uninitiated as opposed to 51mm on the stock Max and 300zx) I made a slight mod to the stamped sheet metal supports that criss cross the underside of the hood. Closes no problem now.

I had also resurfeced my flywheel and put in a new clutch and pressure plate, it shifts like a dream now.

Anyway, so far so good. Just have to finish up the tuning until I am satisfied, get the car safetied and she'll be on the road for good. I will post some pics soon. I wanted to wash it up first before you see it, it got kind of dirty sitting in my shop all this time. :-)

About the cams, they are way cool. The power band is alot higher than stock, but that's OK. I've noticed the car really kicks in and starts to pull at 3500rpm and then BOOM! as in TTFN (ta-ta-for-now) to anyone near me. She pulls liked a raped ape. I love it.

Ciao.
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Old 01-17-2003, 04:08 PM
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How much was it total to do it yourself? Man this is one dream come true. How much horsepower you figure from the engine?
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Old 01-17-2003, 05:02 PM
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Hmmm . . .

Well, there are quite a bit of variables to consider when I did this swap. Consider:

1. I had the tubro rebuilt, you may not
2. I had my cams ground, you may not
3. I had the heads professionally rebuilt, you may not
4. I did a complete clutch job, you may not
5. I installed a 60mm 240sx throttle body, you may not
6. etc., etc.

What I will be doing is a complete breakdown on the website I put up insofar as costs involved so people can discern for themsleves the different cost levels.

As for horsepower, no idea. I do know that it's impressive. At some point when I get the tuning done, I will probably have the car dynoed and then I can let you know HP at the wheels.

Food for thought, I am in the process of making up a bunch of the parts needed for this kind of swap. Parts like: turbo dump so it matches up to stock flex pipe and clears starter, custom mount to mount first or second turbo at exhaust crossover. I am also installing a blowoff vlave this weekend. Those too and the fitting for it will be available, specific for this install. The blowoff valves are sweet, pics coming soon. Also, the custom motor mount needed. The one I made up is working out great so far.

Anyway, I will make some stuff available to those who are interested in getting the oddball parts together to do this swap.

Anyway, I'll keep you guys posted on everything and my website will be getting a healthy update pretty soon.

Cheers!
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Old 01-17-2003, 07:40 PM
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Re: Hmmm . . .

You might want to hold off on getting a BOV. The problem with a BOV is that if it isn't recirculated back into the intake, the engine will want to stall. The MAF will have read X amout of air flowing but by the time the BOV opens the car runs super rich, so the ECU reduces fuel enrichment. After that is done the car almost stalls. Here is some info on this subject below.

http://new.sr20deforum.com/showthrea...ht=BOV+and+CBV
http://new.sr20deforum.com/showthrea...ht=BOV+and+CBV

Also since everyone wants to know how much this project runs, could you list or guesstimate how much these parts below would cost. Here is what my estimated costs would look like:
Z31 Turbo ECU: $75-140
Z31 Turbo fuel injectors: $150-400
Detonation sensor: $50-190
Exhaust manifolds + turbo: $300-800
Misc oil/coolant/intake plumbing: $150-350
Custom exhaust: $300-800

Basically figure at mininmum $1500 for the conversion assuming it is DIY. Add stuff like new clutch/flywheel, oil seals or trans cooler for autos and other nice things like electronic/manual boost controllers, Front mount intercooler, recirculated BOV install. Would definitly add another $1000 easy.
Originally posted by KALSC


Food for thought, I am in the process of making up a bunch of the parts needed for this kind of swap. Parts like: turbo dump so it matches up to stock flex pipe and clears starter, custom mount to mount first or second turbo at exhaust crossover. I am also installing a blowoff vlave this weekend. Those too and the fitting for it will be available, specific for this install. The blowoff valves are sweet, pics coming soon. Also, the custom motor mount needed. The one I made up is working out great so far.

Cheers!
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Old 01-17-2003, 09:03 PM
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I can see your point.

Interesting.

Regardless, for what it's worth, and considering the vented charge from a BOV/CBV can be routed back in the to intake stream anytime, I think I would rather install the BOV/CBV now and save my turbo from the wicked back pressure wave. I can then work on the plumbing to route part of the vented charge back into the intake stream post MAF and pre turbo.

Besides, whether you have a factory CBV or install an aftermarket BOV, you just have to make sure you can adjust the aftermarket BOV so that you can get the same sort of venting response you get from the CBV (softer spring). All in all, it sounds like the best thing to do is to recirc the vented air. On one of those posts, one of the guys couldn't believe how much of a performance difference it made to recirc the vented air. Basically, to hell with the cool Pfffft noise you get, drivability and better performance are where it's at anyway.
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Old 01-17-2003, 09:10 PM
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My point.

I guess the point I was trying to make was that as it stands right now, there is no factory compressor bypass valve or BOV so that charge is stuck there, so my car is still going to run rich at shift anyway. For now, I would rather vent some of that charge and save the turbo from the pressure wave.

Once I am able, then install the plumbing to route the vented charge back.

Sheesh, am I starting to sound like Chrissy Snow from Three's Company? Some of you won't even know who that is. LOL!

Cheers!
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Old 01-28-2003, 10:22 AM
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I applaud you!

As I've said years ago, a local guy I know installed a VG30ET into his 2nd gen with ground cams from Schnieder (as I have done as well in mine) and a 50 shot of NOS. He ran 12.7 in the 1/4 at Bristol Motor Speedway. Anyone who knows speedways, knows that times at BMS are slower than most others (I think due to elevation). He had no other mods on this car except drag slicks. Impressive car. Very nice guy, Nissan Shop Foreman, that says it all! Good luck and I look forward to seeing your track times!
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Old 01-28-2003, 08:09 PM
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Re: My point.

Originally posted by KALSC
I guess the point I was trying to make was that as it stands right now, there is no factory compressor bypass valve or BOV so that charge is stuck there, so my car is still going to run rich at shift anyway. For now, I would rather vent some of that charge and save the turbo from the pressure wave.

Once I am able, then install the plumbing to route the vented charge back.

Sheesh, am I starting to sound like Chrissy Snow from Three's Company? Some of you won't even know who that is. LOL!

Cheers!
OH, I know who she is................
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Old 01-28-2003, 09:32 PM
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Re: Re: My point.

Originally posted by GundamWZero


OH, I know who she is................
postwhore
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Old 07-21-2003, 03:46 AM
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is it possible to just stick a 300zx's turbine in with a regular vg30e or is there something special about the 300's vg30et so the turbo will only work on it?
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Old 07-21-2003, 01:35 PM
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Well, you can't just simply stick it in. You would need the the manifolds and what not. Of course you would also need to add a knock sensor because you will be more prone to detonation than that of a VG30ET.

S
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Old 07-22-2003, 12:12 AM
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knock sensor and manifold....i understand why i'd be needing a knock sensor but whats so different about the manifold that i'd need to replace it too?
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Old 08-22-2003, 05:00 PM
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Its assome to finally have an engine upgrade to do to my 86'Max. I read all about your upgrade to the turbo, and all the mods. you went through to get it done. And Knew this is what Ive been waiting for. So I want to thank you KALSC for makin this possible. The other thing I havent ever heard is any kinda of body kit, to put on for my type of Max. So if anybody has any ideas on where to find someone who already has 1 made, That would be Cool.Well Im out for now And If I find out any mods. that will help out all you Maxima' Owners out there then I will post it. Laterz~
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Old 08-28-2003, 08:36 PM
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Sensor, manifold and stuff

Hi there. Honestly speaking, one does not absolutely need to install the knock sensor. It is there for protection purposes (retard timing if knocking occurs), so it is highly recommended.

As for the manifold, if you were to take one look at a 300ZX intake and the Maxima intake, you would see the huge differences. You could make the stock Maxima intake work, but then you would have to make up a whole new set of intake plumbing from the turbo to the inlet. In stock form, I am sure the 300ZX manifold flows higher CFM than the stock Maxima one.

The big, big, big difference between the VG30E and the VG30ET is the pistons which also translates to compression ratio in this case. The n/a engine (VG30E) has a hight compression ratio than the turbo (VG30ET) engine, as do most forced induction engines. The need for the lower compression ratio is to aid in the reduction of knocking due to detonation.

If you were to stick a turbo on to a VG30E, you wouldn't be able to run very much boost without using higher octane fuel, an intercooler, water injection, blah, blah, blah, as you would greatly increase the chance of detonation.

Anywhooooo, talk to you all later.
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Old 08-28-2003, 09:11 PM
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Hey KALSC! When ya gonna update the your webpage? I'd sure to see how everything look now.

S
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Old 08-28-2003, 09:41 PM
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...

Yeah, I know. It's been too long. Between farting around with different blow off valves and rebuilding the rear end in my LSC (31 spline mosers, detroit locker and 3.73's), I have been quite busy.

I got most of the parts together for the second turbo too. Just sorting out the moungint.
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Old 08-29-2003, 08:21 AM
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Re: ...

Originally posted by KALSC
Yeah, I know. It's been too long. Between farting around with different blow off valves and rebuilding the rear end in my LSC (31 spline mosers, detroit locker and 3.73's), I have been quite busy.

I got most of the parts together for the second turbo too. Just sorting out the moungint.
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Old 09-04-2003, 09:36 PM
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i have a thought....say you kept the compression ratio on the N/A engine the same but you added the intercooler, water injection, and all that other fun stuff how much boost could you run?...err would you want to run i mean
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Old 09-04-2003, 11:38 PM
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Remember that that stuff is used to make the air cooler and denser, but it doesn't guarantee that the risk of detonation will lower. In fact, if your boosting at a N/A compression ratio, you'll probably need some sort of fuel management to make sure enough fuel gets in. Anyway, the most boost even with that would probably be 8 to 11psi tops.

S
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Old 09-16-2003, 12:18 AM
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more than i was expecting...after all that and a better air filter it should be arround 200Hp...i dont know why but 200 sounds like a good goal...for now
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Old 05-01-2004, 09:02 AM
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hey KALSC i just registerd and i have a 1985 max and im trying to put a turbo in it too. and i was planing to get a 300zx turbo block and put it im my car and i was wondering if u might know if the maximas trany would bolte right on to the 300zx block.
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Old 05-01-2004, 09:05 AM
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and if that dont work. i was allso planing to get the turbo of the 300zx and cams and polt them on.
o yea im working with a buget
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Old 05-02-2004, 09:07 AM
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...

The tranny will bolt up to the block with no troubles. The blocks are identical.

The biggest hassle of the whole job is the 300ZX intake. I am hogging out some stock Maxima intakes to get better flow. Plus, this will make the plumbing for the 2nd turbo much easier. These intakes flow over 40 cfm better. I am also doing this to some 300ZX intakes.



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Old 05-02-2004, 09:07 AM
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More . . .



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Old 05-02-2004, 04:22 PM
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...

This one is from today. Trying to get the flow nice and smooth as it DUMPS into the ports.


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Old 05-02-2004, 04:39 PM
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Werd. Were you able to get the car on a dyno or a track time by chance? I'm going the boosting the N/A route. Have lines on the manifold and a T3 turbo. Going to get an upgrade fuel pump and probably a cartech FMU and maybe a VG30ET ECU as well. I will be piping everything differently however. I'm so giddy about this, hopefully I'll get it done!

S
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Old 05-02-2004, 05:09 PM
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Word of caution, if you are indeed going to boost your n/a set up, keep your psi low. Trust me. Even in our 5.0 test with copper head gaskets and hogged out heads, the copper gaskets still blew out. Finally had to 'O' ring the heads and use the lock ring head gaskets and chose truck heads which put the comp ratio down yo 8.5, now the 5.0 runs like a dream without blowing head gaskets nor detonation.

Same applies to the Nissan. Stockers are 9.0 (maybe a touch more, can't clearly remember). If you over boost you WILL blow head gaskets.

As for the fuel pump, why? I am still running the stocker from my Max and when I am pulling 11 psi my fuel pressure rises to a steady 50 psi, there is NO drop off. This says that the stock fuel pump is more than up to the job. Why waste the money?

With regards to the ECU, you have to go with the turbo ECU otherwise your fuel system won't supply enough fuel and you will run into problems especially if you pusdh the boost levels up to high. You could always smudge your way through and just hook up a couple extra injectors to the intake streak which come on using a boost switch set to 2 or 3 psi.

Are you staying with the stock intake or are you going to put a 300zx intake on?

Have you found the exhaust manifold you need for the turbo? Is that the one you say you have a line on?

The way I am setting up my second turbo will make a snap for a single turbo setup, no need for the 300zx exhaust manifold, much cleaner install too.

Good luck with everything. It's been a LONG time since I updated my website, but go have a look if you haven't already:

Turbo Maxima
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Old 05-02-2004, 06:26 PM
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Thanks Kalsc for the input. I'm definately not going very high in boost. My hopes are to stay around 7-8 psi boost. As for performance fuel pump, I'm just doing it for piece of mind if anything. I rather have something that can pump more fuel than I need. It's nice to know I have that added margin if I want to bump things up higher. Besides, a Walboro pump isn't really that expensive, so I'm not to worried about it.

As for the compression yeah, they are 9.1cr. However since I've done a lot of work on a boosted 4th gen (97 GXE, 5-speed, runs a Vortech V2 S/C with a 2.87 pulley, running around 11-12psi boost, and 10.1cr), and I'm pretty confident the car can handle it, but if I go higher, I will need to go intercooled and look into some timing form of timing reduction like a J&S safeguard or something like that.

As for the ECU, I don't think it's completely needed, but I plan on going to it. I can actually boost with out it, but will require the use of an FMU to bump up fuel pressure under boost, and if needed, I can set it to run on the rich side, like 10:1 to 11:1 a/f ratio.

For the stock intake manifold, I'm staying with the stock one for now. I might put the z31 manifold on later but maybe not. I'm thinking of maybe going with a newer VG manifold like that found on the 3rd gen VG and JDM VG30ET's with the varible intake manifold....not completely sure yet.

Yup I have a line on the turbo exhaust manifold...just the front one, but I figure I don't neccessarily need the crossover or rear manifold. If that doesn't work, I can always find them later, but I'm pretty sure I don't.

Either way, I will definately be knocking on your door for advice. Actually I have one now. You said your BOV is set to blow off to atmosphere with out problems. Now is your MAF set on the charged side or non-charged side of the turbo? Also do you think the MAF can handle being on the charged side? The reason I ask is I want to have my BOV set to blow off to the atmosphere, however....there's a chance I could have a problem with that setup. Any feedback would be great. Either way, thanks again for your help. I really really appreciate it!

S
maximase86 is offline  
Old 05-02-2004, 06:42 PM
  #80  
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Sounds like you have things well in hand. :-)

I have my meter pre turbo. I think you would run into problems having the sensor post turbo as the charge temperature is quite irradic post trubo, based on compression. I don't think I know of any EFI setups where the sensor is post turbo. Do you?

The BOV I use is a very sweet one. I have it discharging to the atmosphere with no troubles. Nothing like what some people claim where there engine stalls.
The BOV has both the trumpet and the pipe connector allowing easy installation for being plumbed back in or just out to the atmos.
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