They want $300 labor only to do the rear shocks.
#1
They want $300 labor only to do the rear shocks.
I looked and it is very complex to remove them but is this a lot of money or what? I live in Bellevue,Washington and the lowest price house in town starts at $380,000 so there are no small shops that charge low prices. The small shop that I do go to just looks up the price in a book and it is usually the same as the Nissan price. This price is for labor only and the shocks are $80 more for Monroe's. These shocks are so stiff that I can't move them with my arm and they have a lifetime warranty so just how bad can they be? Most of the driving around here is just sitting in traffic anyway.
#2
Re: They want $300 labor only to do the rear shocks.
Originally posted by siclmn
I looked and it is very complex to remove them but is this a lot of money or what?
I looked and it is very complex to remove them but is this a lot of money or what?
S
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Yeah man, you're getting ripped big time. I paid around $350 for all 4 KYB struts and the labor to replace them. From what I've heard, it's not that difficult of a job.
Don't go to a place like Monroe, they charge around $400-450 to replace struts and they replace them with pieces of sh*t. You can get better struts and get them cheaper if you go to one of your local garages.
-C-
Don't go to a place like Monroe, they charge around $400-450 to replace struts and they replace them with pieces of sh*t. You can get better struts and get them cheaper if you go to one of your local garages.
-C-
#4
Re: They want $300 labor only to do the rear shocks.
Not a bad price at all....
if you're Bill Gates.
The setup is not complex at all. In fact, the books show you have to remove the rear hub...this is not true. You can leave it attached to the strut - just be careful as it adds a significant amount of weight to the unit - they weight about 50-60 lbs when together. Then, just disconnect the parallel links, and the trailing arm on each side of the car. This will have the strut hanging free from the upper mount. Then, remove the three nuts from the top. The strut will drop right out - but remember, be careful - that *****'ll be heavy!
Then, follow the books for struts disassembly. You do not need to use a vise - I didn't have one big enough available at the time...just had my dad hold it in place when breaking the rod nut free.
As always, if you do your own struts, be SUPER careful with those springs...they are under a LOT of pressure.
If your struts have never been replaced with carts, be prepared for a mess when disassembling the unit...other than that, just follow the book...
You just have to remember, the books we use are not Bibles on how it should be done, to be followed to the letter. There are usually easier, faster ways of doing things, without compromising safety. Just use your head.
Where are you located, anyway? If the 2nd gens were more plentiful around here, I'd consider doing 2nd repair and tuning on the side...
if you're Bill Gates.
The setup is not complex at all. In fact, the books show you have to remove the rear hub...this is not true. You can leave it attached to the strut - just be careful as it adds a significant amount of weight to the unit - they weight about 50-60 lbs when together. Then, just disconnect the parallel links, and the trailing arm on each side of the car. This will have the strut hanging free from the upper mount. Then, remove the three nuts from the top. The strut will drop right out - but remember, be careful - that *****'ll be heavy!
Then, follow the books for struts disassembly. You do not need to use a vise - I didn't have one big enough available at the time...just had my dad hold it in place when breaking the rod nut free.
As always, if you do your own struts, be SUPER careful with those springs...they are under a LOT of pressure.
If your struts have never been replaced with carts, be prepared for a mess when disassembling the unit...other than that, just follow the book...
You just have to remember, the books we use are not Bibles on how it should be done, to be followed to the letter. There are usually easier, faster ways of doing things, without compromising safety. Just use your head.
Where are you located, anyway? If the 2nd gens were more plentiful around here, I'd consider doing 2nd repair and tuning on the side...
#5
Holy . . . .!!!
No duff, that is outrageuos!!!!!! As MAxWgn stated, it's not complex at all!!! Just use your head when working around the springs. Trust me man, it ain't rocket science. Krieky!!! That $300 USD is almost $450 CDN. That really is insane.
#6
Re: They want $300 labor only to do the rear shocks.
Originally posted by siclmn
I looked and it is very complex to remove them but is this a lot of money or what?
I looked and it is very complex to remove them but is this a lot of money or what?
#7
Hey man, I gotta bridge to sell you..........real cheap!
Just kidding, partner. I hope you didn't pay for that. I would have done some pricing (even if it is not in my neighborhood) before I would have comitted to anything. If you did, can you spell JUDGE JUDY?
Just kidding, partner. I hope you didn't pay for that. I would have done some pricing (even if it is not in my neighborhood) before I would have comitted to anything. If you did, can you spell JUDGE JUDY?
#8
Re: Re: They want $300 labor only to do the rear shocks.
If the labor was that difficult at a shop, then they had no clue what they were doing...rear seat removal is easy...sorry, but it is...as for the bolts underneath, that's what penetrating oil and pnumatic tools were meant for...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ef9
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
5
09-05-2015 11:18 PM
jds22
8th Generation Maxima (2016-)
5
09-04-2015 01:52 PM
sdotcarter
6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008)
2
09-02-2015 09:53 PM