Guys, I was wondering where to find info on pulling codes on an 87 SE, I was gonna use the search button but it is disabled. Any help is appreciated, sorry for the probably redundant question.

Jay

 

It's not working? I was using it earlier....hmm

S

 

Pllllllease! My day off is tomorrow and I really need to get to the bottom of this so I can re-register the car! Riding my dirtbike to work sucks =/

 

Seems to work fine for me, wasn't yesterday though. I found some threads.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hreadid=142324

You should also get a FSM, Chiltons or Haynes manual.

"The ECU contains two lights in the oval slot on the side, as seen in the diagram, a red light and a green light. Red on the left, green on the right. The ECU is located under the passenger seat on earlier models. On later models it is located on the floor board under the dash, just in front of the center consol. It is accessed on the passenger side inner kick panel. To check the codes, turn the ignition switch on, but do not start the engine. Insert a flat bladed screw driver in the hole next to the slot where the two lights are located. Turn the screw counter clockwise all the way. The two lights should start to blink together, first one time, then two times, then three times, and finally four times. When the lights blink the three times together, turn the screw back clockwise all the way. The codes should start blinking, first the red light will blink, then the green light will blink. If the red light blinks 1 time and the green light blinks 2 times, that means code 12. The codes will continue to repeat themselves until you turn the ignition switch off. After making the repair, turn the ignition switch on, insert the screw driver and turn the screw counter clockwise all the way. Both lights will blink together just like before. When the lights blink 4 times, turn the screw back clockwise all the way. This will reset the computer and erase the codes."

The way to reprogram the keyless entry and the ECU codes + getting them should be put in the FAQ because it's a common question here.

 

K, now does anyone know where to find a listing for the codes? I got a code 13 if I am doing everything correctly. Sorry, but no $ for manual right now.

 

Well I traced it down, supposedly its the Engine Coolant Temp sensor, but it doesnt make sense. Why would this make the car not start or run choppy?

 

Yeah according to Haynes

Code 13 ( 1 red, 3 green flashes) = Cylinder head temperature sensor

The sensor source or ground circuit(s) may be shorted or open. Check the temperature sensor/circuit(s).

And it says it can make the car impossible to start. I'd read on it more in a manual but I don't have time, sorry, hopefully someone else can help you. Manual is only around $15, has tons of usefull info. I'd scan the section but my scanner is not installed and I don't have time to type right now.

 

Ty for your help, I will post back when I figure more out.

 

Yeah if the temp sensor is bad those can really get you scratching your head with whats wrong if you never find out about it.

 

I've been told that you need a "special tool" for replacing
a temp sensor... if you don't have the "special tool", you
have tear more parts off of the engine to get to the sensor.

Is this correct?

Thanks!
Scott

 

Oh yes more like take the timing belt cover off plus some other things. Its in one hellofa place. I can see it but I know I cant get to it.

 

It might not be necessary to remove the timing belt cover, at least it isn't necessary on the 300ZX. Here are the instructions from Z31.com on how to remove the CHTS without taking the cover off. Since the engines are the same I hope the procedures are too. If not, oh well, I tried.

 

I think the problem with that is the 300ZX has a little more space to work with then the maxima. The timing belt cover it self is almost in contact of passenger side fender well. The 300ZX you can pop off the fan shroud and fan and have quite a bit more room to work with. Also the CHTS can cause an engine to run crappy, as it used for a bunch of things....fuel/air ratio, fuel pressure, etc. If that isn't working the ECU can cause the engine to run way too rich, or run with too low of fuel pressure at the fuel rail. It can also run way too lean also.

S

 

I was afraid that would be the case.

Regarding the CHTS. It only plays a role in the way the engine runs when the engine hasn't reached its operating temperature.

 

Actually the CHTS plays a role regardless of whether the engine is cold or hot. For example, if the wiring breaks on the CHTS, the ECU will see infinite ohms as the resistance and go into a full rich mode. That'll make your engine consume a lot of fuel regardless of engine temperature.

-C-

 

You're right, had a brain fart and was just thinking of the cold start problems associated with a bad CHTS and forgot the car will also run rich.

 

Well, Im gonna pick up a Haynes today, I will see if it is something I can tackle and if not I guess have it towed and fixed. Anyone know about how much it would cost to have it done and for the part?

 

If I were you, I would get the Chilton manual. The Haynes manual ECU procedure didn't seem very accurate. Best thing is actually to get the FSM for your car if you can.

S

 

How do you pull up codes on a 1985 maxima wagon with the VG30E motor?
Mine will start, but needs to be throttled no less than 1500rpm, and even then it misses, and if it gets less than 1500rpm it will stall??