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need new suspension

Old 05-29-2003, 06:18 PM
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need new suspension

it's that time where I need to look at having my shocks replaced before I go through a new set of tires. does anyone have any recommendations, as well as a general price range of what I'm lookin at to spend, and where to have the work done?

also, the drivers side CV joint clicks every now and then, and I was told that it's easier and cheaper to just have the halfshaft replaced. this would be a repair I'd attempt to take on myself, if it's easy and straightforeward enough, unless anyone advises otherwise. I have the 2" thick Nissan FSM and will look at another Haynes manual next paycheck - the last one was stolen and the one before that had an unfortunate accident with a spilled battery. if I do take this on myself, are there any techniques or precautions I will have to keep in mind?

I am also replacing the oil pressure sending unit when I change the oil. I can do this myself. after that, all it needs is a new timing belt before this one gives in.
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Old 05-30-2003, 07:50 AM
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Re: need new suspension

Ok, simple enough....

If you're going to replace your half-shafts yourself, go ahead and do your struts, as well. They're not hard to do at all.

Simple breakdown for doing both - hint, have a second pair of hands avilable, it'll make everything go a little faster. Also, as a safety rule, only do one side at a time...

First off, follow all the basic guidelines for lifting your car onto jack stands. Pull the front wheels, and splash sheilds, if you have them (I didn't, so that step was eliminated). With the wheels off, first step is to loosen the brake caliper & torque mount (Nissan's name for the caliper mount) from the spindle, and tie it out of the way, avoiding the strut. Now, pull the rotor, and set aside, in a safe place. Pop the tie-rod end off of the spindle. If you tear the boot up removing the end, you can get poly boots at Autozone, or simply replace the end entirely, which is what I did. Loosen the top three mounting nuts for the strut mount, under the hood, but DO NOT REMOVE THEM YET! (They are the safety net when everything else is removed, to keep the spindle/hub/strut assembly from falling on your foot!) Now, remove the three nuts holding the lower ball joint to the control arm, then pull the "stud plate" (You'll know what I mean when you see it!) up. Now, you have the entire strut/spindle/hub assembly ready to remove...hold the assembly securely, and remove the three top mounting nuts, and slowly lower the assembly from the car. Using a bench vise, or better yet, air tools, remove the two bolts holding the strut to the spindle. Now, you can pull the spring from the old strut, and install it, along with new boot, and cushion, and possibly a new mount, to the new strut. go ahead and loosly bolt it to the spindle, but don't tighten it yet..wait until the entire side is assembled, before tightening those two bolts. Now, go to the shaft. If you're working the driver's side, simply pull really hard to remove the shaft from the transaxle. If you're on the passenger side, there is a built-in carrier bearing for the middle of the shaft - You'll see this on the new shaft. Remove the three mounting bolts holding this bearing together. Then, pul the entire shaft out -note, this shaft should be a little harder to pull out than the driver's side, but it WILL pull out after these bolts are removed. Once the shaft is out, replace the trans output seal, and then line up the new shaft. If you're lucky, the shaft may slide right in...in reality, you're likely going to need to thread the spindle nut down on the end of the shaft a little, just to protect the end of the shaft, and threads, and then use a heavy mallet or hammer to drive the shaft into the trans. If you're on the passenger side, you'll likely only be able to drive partially in. As long as you've got it close enough, you can use the three mounting bolts for the carrier bearing to pull the shaft the rest of the way in. With the new shafdts, you have to be VERY careful not to allow the CV joints to pull apart during the assembly process. Once the shaft is in, you're ready to reinstall the strut/spindle assembly. Tie the shaft out of the way, being careful to keep the CV joints compressed. Feed the strut assembly up, from the bottom, of course, and make sure your upper mount lines up with the holes in the tower. Tighten the upper mounting bolts finger tight. Re-mount the ball-joint to the control arm, and then install the tie-rod end into the spindle. Do not tighten anything byond finger tight yet - these all need to be torqued at curb weight. Don't forget the washer, and castlated nut on the axle shaft. Remount the caliper, and install the pads. If you're doing both sides, do the other side now. Once both side are done, install the wheels, drop to the ground. If there is not enough clearance for you, and you do not have a set of ramps, drive the car - very carefully - so that one side is up on a curb, so you can get under the car. Torque down everything under the car first, then open the hood, and torque doen your upper mounting nuts for the strut.

Please note, you will want to have the car realigned after this.

Prices here are rough, based on my local costs.

New struts - $45 to $80 each, depending upon brand, and store.
Strut boots - $11 each
Strut mounts - $35 to $70, again depending upon brand and store.
half-shafts - $80 each at Autozone (I paid more, they've come down alot since I did mine!)
outer tie rod ends - $20 - $50 each, again, brand and store...
Ball joints - $28 - $50 each, again...brand and store....

To have a shop do everything, labor for front struts alone was quoted at about $70 per side. The half-shafts were quoted, labor only, at about $140 per side, plus any extra parts that may be needed.

If you need any further help, let me know...I have replaced my shafts, my ball joints, my tie rod ends, my sway bar bushings, my control arm bushings, my struts, my rotors, rebuilt my calipers, and am still currently fighting with time and the weather to get my rack & pinion installed in the car. When the powersteering is replaced / rebuilt, my entire front end will have been rebuilt, and back to new specs. Then, I will be looking at finding some way to rebuild the rear suspension, hopefully, I may be able to use or make some poly bushings in the rear, as well - and maybe either get an Addco sway bar for the rear, or have a custom one bent for me locally...still checking on the costs of that.
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Old 05-30-2003, 09:26 AM
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Re: Re: need new suspension

Q! Write up! Sticky this one!!!

S
Originally posted by MaxWgn
Ok, simple enough....

If you're going to replace your half-shafts yourself, go ahead and do your struts, as well. They're not hard to do at all.

Simple breakdown for doing both - hint, have a second pair of hands avilable, it'll make everything go a little faster. Also, as a safety rule, only do one side at a time...

First off, follow all the basic guidelines for lifting your car onto jack stands. Pull the front wheels, and splash sheilds, if you have them (I didn't, so that step was eliminated). With the wheels off, first step is to loosen the brake caliper & torque mount (Nissan's name for the caliper mount) from the spindle, and tie it out of the way, avoiding the strut. Now, pull the rotor, and set aside, in a safe place. Pop the tie-rod end off of the spindle. If you tear the boot up removing the end, you can get poly boots at Autozone, or simply replace the end entirely, which is what I did. Loosen the top three mounting nuts for the strut mount, under the hood, but DO NOT REMOVE THEM YET! (They are the safety net when everything else is removed, to keep the spindle/hub/strut assembly from falling on your foot!) Now, remove the three nuts holding the lower ball joint to the control arm, then pull the "stud plate" (You'll know what I mean when you see it!) up. Now, you have the entire strut/spindle/hub assembly ready to remove...hold the assembly securely, and remove the three top mounting nuts, and slowly lower the assembly from the car. Using a bench vise, or better yet, air tools, remove the two bolts holding the strut to the spindle. Now, you can pull the spring from the old strut, and install it, along with new boot, and cushion, and possibly a new mount, to the new strut. go ahead and loosly bolt it to the spindle, but don't tighten it yet..wait until the entire side is assembled, before tightening those two bolts. Now, go to the shaft. If you're working the driver's side, simply pull really hard to remove the shaft from the transaxle. If you're on the passenger side, there is a built-in carrier bearing for the middle of the shaft - You'll see this on the new shaft. Remove the three mounting bolts holding this bearing together. Then, pul the entire shaft out -note, this shaft should be a little harder to pull out than the driver's side, but it WILL pull out after these bolts are removed. Once the shaft is out, replace the trans output seal, and then line up the new shaft. If you're lucky, the shaft may slide right in...in reality, you're likely going to need to thread the spindle nut down on the end of the shaft a little, just to protect the end of the shaft, and threads, and then use a heavy mallet or hammer to drive the shaft into the trans. If you're on the passenger side, you'll likely only be able to drive partially in. As long as you've got it close enough, you can use the three mounting bolts for the carrier bearing to pull the shaft the rest of the way in. With the new shafdts, you have to be VERY careful not to allow the CV joints to pull apart during the assembly process. Once the shaft is in, you're ready to reinstall the strut/spindle assembly. Tie the shaft out of the way, being careful to keep the CV joints compressed. Feed the strut assembly up, from the bottom, of course, and make sure your upper mount lines up with the holes in the tower. Tighten the upper mounting bolts finger tight. Re-mount the ball-joint to the control arm, and then install the tie-rod end into the spindle. Do not tighten anything byond finger tight yet - these all need to be torqued at curb weight. Don't forget the washer, and castlated nut on the axle shaft. Remount the caliper, and install the pads. If you're doing both sides, do the other side now. Once both side are done, install the wheels, drop to the ground. If there is not enough clearance for you, and you do not have a set of ramps, drive the car - very carefully - so that one side is up on a curb, so you can get under the car. Torque down everything under the car first, then open the hood, and torque doen your upper mounting nuts for the strut.

Please note, you will want to have the car realigned after this.

Prices here are rough, based on my local costs.

New struts - $45 to $80 each, depending upon brand, and store.
Strut boots - $11 each
Strut mounts - $35 to $70, again depending upon brand and store.
half-shafts - $80 each at Autozone (I paid more, they've come down alot since I did mine!)
outer tie rod ends - $20 - $50 each, again, brand and store...
Ball joints - $28 - $50 each, again...brand and store....

To have a shop do everything, labor for front struts alone was quoted at about $70 per side. The half-shafts were quoted, labor only, at about $140 per side, plus any extra parts that may be needed.

If you need any further help, let me know...I have replaced my shafts, my ball joints, my tie rod ends, my sway bar bushings, my control arm bushings, my struts, my rotors, rebuilt my calipers, and am still currently fighting with time and the weather to get my rack & pinion installed in the car. When the powersteering is replaced / rebuilt, my entire front end will have been rebuilt, and back to new specs. Then, I will be looking at finding some way to rebuild the rear suspension, hopefully, I may be able to use or make some poly bushings in the rear, as well - and maybe either get an Addco sway bar for the rear, or have a custom one bent for me locally...still checking on the costs of that.
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Old 05-30-2003, 09:34 AM
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Old 05-30-2003, 10:13 AM
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Ill sticky it, lol.
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Old 05-30-2003, 01:07 PM
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Originally posted by max88q
Ill sticky it, lol.
hmm, well when I do my KONI's and spring install, I'll try to get some pics to compliment some of that...though it's gonna be a bit different.

S
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Old 05-30-2003, 01:24 PM
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Originally posted by maximase86


hmm, well when I do my KONI's and spring install, I'll try to get some pics to compliment some of that...though it's gonna be a bit different.

S
Just a little...so if you want it to compliment, you can leave out photos of the front strut housing modification to make the koni carts fit...the spring fitment will be the same, but may appear a tad shorter...

That will at least cover the strut portion...
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Old 05-30-2003, 03:00 PM
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Yup, will do.

S
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Old 06-17-2003, 04:10 PM
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Re: need new suspension

Originally posted by blackmaxima88
it's that time where I need to look at having my shocks replaced before I go through a new set of tires. does anyone have any recommendations, as well as a general price range of what I'm lookin at to spend, and where to have the work done?

also, the drivers side CV joint clicks every now and then, and I was told that it's easier and cheaper to just have the halfshaft replaced. this would be a repair I'd attempt to take on myself, if it's easy and straightforeward enough, unless anyone advises otherwise. I have the 2" thick Nissan FSM and will look at another Haynes manual next paycheck - the last one was stolen and the one before that had an unfortunate accident with a spilled battery. if I do take this on myself, are there any techniques or precautions I will have to keep in mind?

I am also replacing the oil pressure sending unit when I change the oil. I can do this myself. after that, all it needs is a new timing belt before this one gives in.
I put in new cv shafts myself they were 110 from autozone with the core charge I think I got 30 back with core.Got all 4 struts for 110.I put the cv's in myself just took a little time to do and the right side was trickier then the left(more hard to reach then anything)havn't done the struts yet but I know it isn't that big of a deal put new ball joints on too they were like 34 each and took all of 10 minutes to do each
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Old 10-09-2003, 11:15 PM
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I replaced the rear struts with a japanese racing shock. they were supposed to be direct replacements for the electronic adjustable shocks on my 1988 SE. it was a pain putting them together but they work. they just make this clunking sound when the wheel goes downward. did I do something wrong?

also, I want to change the timing belt myself. Is it a big deal? I have rebuilt entire engines but on American cars. How difficult is it to change out one of these timing belts? doesn't look too bad. Do I need special tools of any sort?

Redliner
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Old 10-10-2003, 12:29 AM
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Sounds like either you botched the install, which I've done on my fronts, something is missing, or strut is wrong.

To the sounds of it, you've got the mechanical background, it just takes time to do the timing belt. You probably want to have a chiltons or FSM on hand to guide you on the procedure to do the change. It isn't bad, it's just time consuming. You shouldn't need any special tools. Also you might wanna consider replacing things like your main engine seal, waterpump, and thermostat.

S
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Old 10-10-2003, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by maximase86
Sounds like either you botched the install, which I've done on my fronts, something is missing, or strut is wrong.

To the sounds of it, you've got the mechanical background, it just takes time to do the timing belt. You probably want to have a chiltons or FSM on hand to guide you on the procedure to do the change. It isn't bad, it's just time consuming. You shouldn't need any special tools. Also you might wanna consider replacing things like your main engine seal, waterpump, and thermostat.

S
Hey thanks SE86. I installed everything that came wih them, however it was extremely difficult to compress the strut enough to get that thin screw-on cap to the tube on. these were my rear shocks, not the fronts. I have the fronts but they are still in the box. I wanted to wait until I got this pesky "clunking" sound taken care of. These were supposed to be direct "bolt-ins" to take the place of the electronic units. The shocks do their job on a "performance" level, but they make the noise. Weird. I think that I put enough oil in the tubes around the struts. However, when it is very cold....say near freezing, when I start off for work in the morning during the winter, they make NO NOISE until they get warmed up! I can't figure out if maybe it has to do with the surrounding oil or not. If it is cold, the oil will be more viscous and keep the strut from hitting the walls of the tube?
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Old 10-17-2004, 12:05 PM
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Suspension

When you start on the front struts...make sure you use the correct type spring compressor before you attemp to remove the cartridge from the spring They are much stronger. "DANGER! DANGER! WILL ROBINSON! ...for those that are old enough to remember "Lost In Space"

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Old 05-16-2005, 09:32 AM
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Parallel Links...are they they same on the 88 and 89?

Hi,

I have an 88 Max. 4 Dr. My rear suspension is shot (on the right side). The bushings on the parallel links are gone. Nissan tells me that they don't sell the bushings alone, so i have to purchase the 2 links (adjustable and non-adjustable).

I found bushings here:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...t_Code=7-3117G

As you can see....the top part of the page says 89-94, but at the bottom that shows applications for the bushings, it says 84-89. So I am not quite sure if they'll fit or not.

Could someone please tell me if they are the same size for the 88 and for the 89.

Thanks
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Old 05-16-2005, 07:40 PM
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88 Maxima

Well........I sold the 88 Maxima. I told the guy that bought it about the noise in the shocks. He didn't care. The interior is perfect. Not just nice, ...perfect. The exterior is pretty nice too........hardly a scratch. However it has some hail dents from awhile back that my wife got when she couldn't get under cover on time. Sold it for $1500. I miss that car. Take a look.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...hiteMaxima.jpg
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Old 06-03-2005, 06:55 PM
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i just bought an 84 maxima with only 136,006 original miles. its a rear wheel drive, inline 280z 6 cylinder straight up luxury automible. this car has everything you could think of in a car except for keyless entry, but just the simple fact that the car talks completely makes up for it. it was bone stock when i got it but i put my touch screen cd player in it for now. i have done minor work to it such as front brakes and rotors, basic tune up stuff. i need to fined a center console and a driver side corner light, and thats what im in the process of now. i also need to do something with this loose 1980's suspention cuz every time i hit a bump the whole rear jumps to the right. if any one has any suggestions let me know. thanks!
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Old 06-03-2005, 08:59 PM
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Same problem

I had the same problem. It turned out to be the bushings on the rear parallel links that were gone. If you jack the car up, and push against the rear tires and the tires move (in and out), that might be the problem.

They don't sell the bushings alone (believe me, I looked, and no one could tell me for sure if the ones from the 89-94 Maxima would fit), so you'll have to buy the links. There are two - one adjustable, and one not. They are about $145 for the two, but you have to get them directly from Nissan. I wasn't able to find them anywhere else. I checked all the major (and not so major) auto parts places and they all told me that I have to go to Nissan to get it.
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Old 06-04-2005, 08:06 PM
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shortybiscuit, what year is your max? also are you born and raised in NY?
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Old 06-04-2005, 11:53 PM
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I have an 87. Born and raised in Trinidad. Live in Brooklyn now
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Old 07-11-2005, 09:25 PM
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Hello pepz
Im new to this sight and I have a 88 Nissan Max with rear right side shock problems. Must be common> Ih anybody body knows where to find perfomace suspension parts sites plz let me know I wanna redo my whole suspension.

Thanks
Dizzle
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Old 10-18-2005, 09:05 AM
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Me too. I've got an 82 Maxima diesel with a badly sagging rearend. Been surfing the net looking for some new rear springs and CANNOT find anything. Will something else work that is available. Right now I can't put anything heavier than a glass of water in the trunk without is dragging. Got to admit it does ride nice solo though.
Help please.............
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Old 11-14-2005, 08:08 PM
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I just bought an 88 wagon (GXE I think) last week and the rear-end is bouncy bouncy. When I went to the parts store to order KYB shocks, my parts guy wanted to know if the car had some type of "electronic suspension." Does my wagon have this electronic suspension?

Also, has anyone here bought lowereing/performance springs for a wagon. I got the car for $140 and figure I can spend a few bucks on silly stuff.
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Old 03-08-2006, 06:37 PM
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cheap way to lower car? i just got it.....blah
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Old 09-05-2006, 01:42 PM
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just bought an '87 maxima with the factory adjustable ride suspension. All struts are wasted and need to install all four. The dealer will replace the factory suspension for approx $2000 which is well above what i paid for the car. Was looking at changing it to KYB struts but not sure whats involved. Does anyone have any info on how to convert this adjustable suspension to kyb struts or something similiar. Want a good ride but still have grip when needed.
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Old 10-16-2006, 08:17 PM
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Take a look here:

http://www.coximport.com/kyb/appendixc.html

KYB Gas Shocks
APPENDIX C
ELECTRONIC SUSPENSIONS
AIR SUSPENSIONS
AND ELECTRONIC LEVEL CONTROLS

NISSAN MAXIMA 1985 with ECVSA (Electronically
Controlled Variable Shock Absorber)

1. Remove the strut actuators.
2. Unplug ECVSA module located in the trunk.
3. Remove & install struts per instruction sheet supplied with units.
4. Replace the front strut mounts with KYB #5M5065 and the front upper spring seats, thrust seats, and strut tower covers with Nissan P/Nís: 54040-05E00, 54043-01 E00, and 54380-0SE00. Two each of
these 4 P/Nís are required.
5. Use the following units: 235030 Right Front, 235031 Left Front, and 365080 Rear.

NISSAN MAXIMA 1986-88 with ECVSA (Electronically Controlled Variable Shock Absorber)

1. Remove the strut actuators.
2. Unplug ECVSA module located in the trunk.
3. Remove & install struts per instruction sheet supplied with the units.
4. Replace the front strut mounts with KYB #SM5065 and the front upper spring seats, thrust seats,
and strut tower covers with Nissan P/Nís: 54040-05E00, 54043-01 E00, and 54380-05E00. Two each of these 4 P/Nís are required.
5. Use the following units: 235019 Right Front, 235020 Left Front, and 365080 Rear.
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Old 12-19-2006, 02:42 PM
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Hi everyone, newbie at this site. I just want to replace the springs on my 88 because I already have the struts (front & rear) with a kit for the fronts to replace the oem electronic suspension. I need to know two things - 1. where to get the best deal on regular springs, and 2. What exactly is involved in replacing this outdated suspension. Thanx in advance.
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Old 02-12-2007, 03:11 PM
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Need to replace inner tie rods.How hard is this to do,also transverse link bushings are gone?
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Old 05-31-2007, 12:29 PM
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I'll add my thoughts on replacing the struts. I just did mine on my 88 wagon.

First off, shop around. I got 4 gr-2's with boots for $200 shipped from Tire Rack. They can also be had for cheap on eBay.

Plan on replacing the 2 strut to steering nuckle bolts in the front, and plan on getting them ahead of time. I couldn't find any the same day I needed them, wish I would've ordered them before I started.

About a week before you start, get a can of PB Blaster and spray the 2 front strut to steering nuckle bolts on each side. Also spray the parallel link bolt, the control arm bolts and the sway bar bolt on each side in the rear. Do this again the day before you start.

The fronts are incredibly simple. It's good to have a helper, as you don't want the steering nuckle to come out to far and mess up your cv joint. Just the 3 bolts up top, and the 2 steering nuckle bolts. That's it.

The rears take a little more time and elbow grease. It's also not completely necessary to take the rotors off. I didn't, and the shop that swapped the springs out didn't mind.

I didn't swap out the springs myself. I paid $50 at a local shop to have them done. They did it in an hour, and it was $50 well spent to me. I don't like messing with springs.

Having never done struts before, it took me about 2 hours to take all 4 off, and 1 1/2 hour to put them all back on. All I used was a Haynes manual, and some info I gleaned off the net. This is not that hard of a job as long as you have all the tools you need.

So after 4 struts, the $50 for the spring swap and $60 for an alignment, I spent a total of $310 plus some beer money. That's way less than half of what you would pay at a shop.
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Old 06-28-2007, 02:49 PM
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Tires plus offered to do the whole deal with the OEM struts and shocks for $900, but since I only paid 900 for the max I cant justify that. I will be going the KYB route.
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Old 07-09-2007, 08:38 PM
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You're going to pay a ton for labor, that's just the way the shops go with suspension work-mainly struts. Figure in a minimum of $60 per wheel. Seriously, it's not that difficult to do. Save the coin and do it yourself.
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Old 07-20-2007, 08:18 AM
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Its time to do it myself.
Im looking at the complete set of front and rear shocks at
http://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/i...cted_year=1987
Complete Set Front and Rear
KYB KYB GR2

my question is though , what about the springs? Do I change those since I'm going the non adjustable route?

If so what are the part numbers? Looking at mounts for the KYB is difficult, I see that they are there but the KYB #SM5065 is listed for the stanza which I assume is the same body style from reading other posts.

Do I have to replace the upper mounts? I really dont want to spend too much and with shocks, springs and mounts it is looking to be around $600 for the parts alone. Thats a tad bit more than $60 per wheel.
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Old 07-23-2007, 10:31 AM
  #32  
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First off, be sure to shop around. I mean really look around. I got all 4 struts and boots for under 200 from tire rack on closeout. another place that has them reasonably cheap is ajusa.com I think they were cheaper than shock warehouse.

Don't replace the mounts unless they're shot. You shouldn't need to replace the springs either, unless they are severely sagging.
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Old 12-14-2007, 09:24 AM
  #33  
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Can you drill out the original mounts for front electronic struts (88) to make them round instead of with the flat side & use the conversion struts listed above??? Anybody know???
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Old 12-26-2007, 08:23 PM
  #34  
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Hmmmm....I had forgotten about this thread, and I had posted in 10/2006 which was before I got my '88. So, it failed inspection for a leaky front strut and I replaced them myself earlier this year. I had to do the steering arm boots and one axle while I was at it so it was worse than just doing the struts.

One point though - the car had electronic struts and I replaced them with non-electronics. I just ordered them from my local parts shop...don't even remember what brand but they were cheap, ~$50 each.

The worst part of the job was swapping the springs, even with a 'clamshell' style spring compressor I bought. I still had to use the old standard single-bolt style compressors and do them in two steps because the clamshell didn't have enough travel to it (unless I did something wrong). Didn't have to drill out the mounts or anything. Or maybe I did this in a fit of rage at 2AM and don't remember...?
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Old 07-23-2008, 10:23 PM
  #35  
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does anyone still have there first and second gen anymore there basicaly all gone
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Old 07-24-2008, 06:46 PM
  #36  
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I still have 4 - an '88 5-speed with just over 100K miles, an '87 auto with lots of miles and rust (taken off the road recently because it failed inspection), another '87 with a rusty rear end (that I want to 'restore'), and an '86 that doesn't run which I'm planning to part out and/or scrap very soon. I have scrapped 3 already.

I was driving the '88 until recently, but the power steering pump is shot and I haven't had time to swap it out. I'll probably pull it from the '86.

If anyone is looking for parts, let me know. I've been meaning to post a note on this for a while.
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Old 07-24-2008, 06:59 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by 914max View Post
does anyone still have there first and second gen anymore there basicaly all gone
there is a few of us left
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Old 07-29-2008, 10:10 PM
  #38  
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okay its good to see that there are still 1 and second gens i plan on keeping mine for ever..but i want to do a meet in nyc with all types of gens but i want to see a couple 1 and 2nd gens
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Old 10-09-2008, 05:07 PM
  #39  
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...
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Old 03-14-2009, 04:46 PM
  #40  
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Haven't been here in a while....

My 1988 Maxima failed PA State inspection recently for a bunch of stuff, mostly rotten bushings and a blown rear strut. I think the state is trying to force old cars off the road, they seem to get tougher every year.

Anyway, I already have the new strut inserts for the rear but forgot to order new boots at the same time. They're on the way and should be here Monday so I can put the back end back together.

The problem I'm having right now is the blasted front bushing in the transverse link (control arm). I think the outer metal shell or sleeve is so rusted into the slot in the control arm that it's "become one" with it. Looks to me like I'm either going to have to burn/cut the old ones out or just buy new control arms...I have hammered on them with a matching diameter socket and they won't budge. (The rear ones were easy...) Anyone ever had to replace these before? I found control arms at about $125 each, but I'm already up to almost $500 in parts (shop wanted over $1000, and I'm betting they would have run it up to more like $1500 if I let them do the repairs).

They told my my motor mounts would probably fail next year. My rack seems to be leaking a lot of steering fluid too. I think after this repair I'm going to have to retire from the Maxima repair business. As much as I love my 2nd Gen's it's getting to the point where it's not worth it any more
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