gscars

i need the windshield wiper hose retaining clip, because my clip broke and my hose sags and i can't spray wiper fluid, also do you have leather seats(front and back complete sets) for my 88 max, i'm about to get it reupholstered it's expensive i'm needing grey colored seats. also i'm looking for the clear door panel covers(4) my drivers side door panel (grey) is loose i guess from where it was being slammed by the inside door handle, my max is the 88, pm me prices (both individual, and group prices) if you have any of these items. g

zcarmaniac

If he doesn't have them,try Nissan/Toyota Salvage of Phoenix.The cater to the Vintage Datsun/Nissan crowd.

londonflu

I HAD EVERYTHING INSTALLED BY THE SAME MECHANIC WHO'S DONE ALL THE WORK ON MY CAR. $800 LATER DRIVES BETTER EXCEPT WHEN TURNING MY STEERING WHEEL IN EITHER DIRECTION IS WHEN I'M GETTING A CLUNKING NOISE SOUNDS LIKE COILS ARE POPPING. MECHANIC SAYS I NEED A COIL BUSHING, I ASKED WAS THERE ONE ON THE OLD ONE HE COULDN'T RECALL. ANY IDEAS ON WHAT WENT WRONG?

zcarmaniac

Your mechanic is correct.

londonflu

Hi Z, What bushing is required that the coil sit on?

zcarmaniac

I believe when I had my suspension re-done a couple of years ago,the bushings were all upgraded to urethane,mostly 300ZX parts from Moog,if my memory serves me correctly.

londonflu

What's the name of the part? & For what year 300ZX?

londonflu

1987 300ZX Suspension Strut Rod Bushing Kit?

vernk

This is the list of stuff that I used to do coilovers on my 85 SE

Cheep coilover kit (ebay)
universal camber plates (ebay)

top hats from https://technotoytuning.com/
22mm Front with bearings $60 pair
20mm Back, flat top hat $20 pair

new mounts for the back due to the smaller shaft



NOTES:
camber plates- you will have to drill your own holes
coilover kit- might want to get the ones with the shorter sleeves for the front, I have to cut the sleeve down to be able to drop more then just a couple inches, I haven't bottomed out yet and have hit some speed bumps kinda hard just to check, I have them set so that control arms are parallel with ground, can go down about 2 in (haven't taken a tape to it just eyeballing) more but then the top of the sleeve will be almost against the top hat......

zcarmaniac

Thanks for the info.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

This will be awesome too see..It should work to say the least!

vernk

a dirty shot of the back

Danny_Harris

They doesn't offer the bushings alone (believe me, I seemed, and no one could tell me for sure if the ones from the 89-94 Maxima would fit), so you'll have to buy the hyperlinks. There are two - one flexible, and one not. They are about $145 for the two, but you have to get them straight from Car. I wasn't able to discover them anywhere else. I examined all the significant (and not so major) car area locations and they all informed me that I have to go to Car to get it.

Click Here

zukirich

1987 Maxima Rear Struts--I'm replacing my rear struts and have the top nuts removed and the linkage at the bottom disconnected, as well as the caliper. How does the strut come out of the rear cast at the bottom??

Just figured it out...The struts go inside the tubes!!

vernk

So you have decided to spend more on suspension then what your car is worth, and want some BC coil overs, this is what you will need.
Starting at the top and working down
#1 universal camber plates off ebay listed under "MK1 Universal Fit Camber Plates" you want the round ones that are 6in, you will have to drill your own holes. The rears are a bit of a odd pattern, I have a cad drawing that I did, then 3d printed, I have to tweak the drawing a bit but will post it when I get that done and ready to cut plates to do a rear strut brace....
#2 PB-TOP-NUT-M12 X4
UP-SS-WO-KOYO X4
BMP-STP-20 X4
DST-BT-20 X4
UP-SPG-ST-ISITR-62 X4
UP-SPRG-SEAT 53 X4 (there is a front and rear but they are the same it's the spring seat so just need it to be 53mm)
MID-LK-RG 53 X4
LOW-LK-RG X4
D-49-RL-LM X1
D-49-RR-LM X1
D-12-FR-LM X1
D-12-FL-LM X1
300150MF120M12 X4 (these are the shocks, this part number is for the longest they make, you could go with a bit shorter ones if you want to go low low I'm as low as I can go with these)
62-160-6 X2 (springs there are other options in hind sight a little longer wouldn't hurt but I don't think I have put it to the bump stops yet and did hit a speed bump kind of fast the other night)
62-170-5 X2 (more springs, they didn't have the 160s in 5kg/mm so did a bit longer for the rear)
ADJ-KNB-BR-M12 X4 (adjustment *****)
You will need the wrenches I didn't look up the part number on those since I have a set from my S12 kit

Basically you are making a kit using S13 front lower mount parts and 280Z rear lower mount parts

#3 some sort of tubular spacer to with a I.D. around 51mm and O.D. of around 55mm
#4 some sort of plate spacer of about 5mm X4
#5 40056-50A00 and 01225-00072 they are the S13 knuckle bolts

For the rear the first step brings you to the point of no return, cut the strut tubes 2 inches from the ledge.

The rear needs spacers since the strut tubes are 51mm ish (mine came in at 50.95mm) I had ordered some 2in I.D. .120 wall DOM but since they shipped it to the wrong place it didn't get to me in time so ran to the hardware store and grabbed a chuck of pipe




I did a tight press fit to help keep them straight and centered, once those are done then you melt the metal together

After that is done, it's just a matter of drilling the holes for the camber plates, I used 12mm bolts, they fit nice in the strut tower holes and if you get your bolt holes right in the camber plates makes for a nice fit.

For the front, I used the S13 lower mounts since I had them from my S12 stuff and they have the same bolt spacing and size, the clamps are about 10mm wider hence the plate spacers drill your holes on each of the plates they should be about 5mm thick each, I took some 3/16 plate and machined it down then tack welded them to the mounts. You will have to cut the bottom of the Lower mounts to the bottom of the bracket and grind the center back a little to make room for the CV boot


Then just put everything together the pillow ***** on the plates are the same size as the BC stuff so once everything is welded and holes drilled it all just bolts together




I need to redo my camber plates in the rear since I got the tringle plates and well they don't line up and with the way the spacing is you end up with caster adjustment

So I will be redoing my CAD drawing since the one I have now a 2 of the bolt holes are off by a few mm but I now have the old mounts out of the car and can do it having those to measure from and once I 3D print a templet I will be able to get center point better for getting the camber adjustment right on along with making plates to do a strut tower brace I will also do the fronts and make a brace for those also. I will post the drawings up when I get them done and will try and make it printable at 1:1 so it could be used as a templet. In the nearish future when I redo the rear camber plates I want to use them to push the top of the strut out then get a bit longer bars and be able to widen the track a bit in the rear for better filament.

William Keahi

You have a step-by-step diagram explaining how to remove and replace 1986 Nissan Maxima Wagon Rear Strut Mount?

William Keahi

You have a step-by-step diagram explaining how to remove and replace 1986 Nissan Maxima Wagon Rear Strut Mount?