Any tips on removing/replacing this? I am gonna grab a Haynes or Chilton tomorrow and go to town, figured someone might have done it before and have some tips

 

hmmm thats kinda scary if noone even wants to reply!

 

Well noone has attempted it. Its hard because its in a cramped space if you do want to replace it. Best thing to use is the Haynes or the FSM. I know of one who did do it but he was replacing the timing belt and alotta stuff around that area so he had majority of the stuff out and it was easier to do.

 

Well I am going to go ahead, but I have a question for anyone who has taken their timing belt cover etc. off. Am I going to have to go through the whole procedure of taking the timing belt, crank pulley, etc off or will the CHTS be accessible once I removed the timing belt cover and ac compressor?

 

Let us know how you make out with the chts. I have to change my chts plus the harness and could use some advice from someone who replaced one.

 

HOw did you go about figuring out if it was the harness or not? Just curious, I checked the resistance and theres no loose connections, so hopefully when I replace it all will be well.

 

Had many problems...white smoke(more than normal)from exhaust...power loss...plus lots of engine sputter until it warmed up(it was undrivable on cold days until it warmed up)...finally took it to Nissan to have it put on an engine analyzer...came back with a bad air regulator plus bad CHTS...they also told me the sensor harness had corroded...and that this was a common problem (you might think about replacing yours).
I replaced the air regulator myself...now the only problem I have is white smoke in the exhaust until the engine warms up and it only does this if the temp is cold 45 or below ...I also have a small stutter around 2000 rpm until the engine warm up...then it’s fine...but now I can drive it even before the engine warms up.
Now, I just have to replace the CHTS and harness and I’ll be good to go.
So let me know what problems you run into.

 

Ok, will do.

 

ksultz: Hmm, you have white smoke? That's not good. White smoke is associated with water getting into the combustion chamber. Though there is some steam that can come out when the engine is cold, and usual amount would be a prob. Sounds like your problem may actually lie with you head gasket. To the sound of it, when the gasket is cold, its contracted, which would allow coolant to get by. When the motor heats up, the gasket expands out and starts doing it's job and prevents coolant from passing. If I were you I would check your oil and see if its got the consistency or look chocolate milk. If so, that's your problem, if not, then I guess that part is fine.

JayDubs: If you do have you don't have to take off the timing belt for this job neccessarily, but you have to take the care to prevent coolant or contaminates from getting on the belt. You will probably need to take off the engine pulley though to get the lower cover off. I suggest that while you have this stuff off to do your timing belt, tensioner, water pump, thermostat, and have a fresh set of valve cover gaskets (when doing a timing belt, you have to remove them to loosen up the rockers to ensure proper belt seating) while your in there. It will save you time of having to tear it apart again.

S

 

I was concerned that the white smoke might be a bad head gasket...but the oil is clean and I only have smoke on cold days. When I took the max to Nissan I made my concerns known. They told me It was not a head gasket. The CHTS was not working and was causing the engine to run rich...and the white smoke was rich fuel mix. The computer default (if CHTS not working) is to use a hot engine setting...so until the engine warms up I have too much fuel going to the engine.

 

hmm...I always though that a rich condition would cause black smoke....but then again. :P Yeah, try out the CHTS, I'm very interested in seeing how this works out.

S

 

Yeah, it could be that you're running rich. My car does that too every now and then cause I need a tune up and new O2 sensor. Hopefully my CHTS isn't bad, I'm going to have to pull those codes and find out one of these days. I think it does it because I'm getting condensation in my distributor cap.

-C-

 

I get a puff of white smoke every now in then when I punch it and the motor is still kinda cold....that must be what it is. :P

S

 

Hmmm I hope Im not going after the wrong beast here, mine wont even start. It wont start, and if i do get it to barely run I have to keep it about half throttle or it spits and sputters out. I checked the obvious stuff, then pulled codes and got a code 13, CHTS. We shall see

 

When I was researching my problem one of the many problem a bad CHTS could cause... is the engine not starting. I’m not sure how this could happen if you have no other problems...but, then I’m not a mechanic...maybe someone else knows something about this and could add to this discussion.

 

Yeah, it's most likely the CHTS. Get the replace for sure and see what happens.

S

 

i bought CHTS from Nissan for my daughters 87 max. The wire hareness purchased with the CHTS needed to be modified. The old CHTS had tapered threds the new CHTS was straight and smaller in diameter. I made an adapter, it worked. Nissan said they never heard of that problem. The new CHTS made the engine run a hundred times better.

 

Nissan makes a special tool that fits on the CHTS terminal, with a socket that goes around it that fits the sensor on a flex extension. It is the best way to get it out. Otherwise, there is quite a bit of dissasembly involved in getting to it. That little elbow hose is tough.

Grey smoke= fuel; white=coolant; blue=oil; black=carbon

 

22 mm crowfoot and the old one comes out with not much fuss, 17 or 19 mm deepwell socket put the new one on.

 

Just curious... what were the symptoms before you replaced
the CHTS and how tough was it to replace?

How many parts did you have to remove?

Thanks!
Scott

 

Kent Moore makes a tool for this. It is a off-set socket that allows the removel of the sensor without removing the t-belt covers.

The idler pully must be taken off. Using a long screwdriver break the connector off the sensor so the tool can be slide over the sensor for removel. ALWAYS replace the sensor harness when replacing the sensor. The harness is called (EGI sub harness)

(DO NOT over tighten sensor) it just fits into a threaded cavity. no water will come out. Don't use ANY sealer

Using long needle nose plyers, just snap the new harness on (goes on only one way) reinstall idler pulley and your done.

You cannot due this without the tool. The t-belt covers will have to come off without it. Kent Moore tools can be bought thru the Parts Dept. I think it's called "Clyinder head temp sensor socket"