Edge

I've got an 87 GXE (auto trans) with 64 K miles that won't always engage in drive. No problem with engagement of the other gears. I have a whine which also sounds like it's coming from the trans. Any known problems with the trans I should look out for?

Thanks

MaxWgn

iTrader: (1)

Yes, auto-tragics in our cars are utter kr@p...

Charles Bisel

Yeah, maxwgn's right, our automatic transmissions are junk. Pretty surprising considering how reliable the engine is. My car has 126K on it and it shifts hard. I have a feeling it's going to prematurely destroy my mounts on the car the way it shifts. Also, during the winter it stick's in first gear for a good five minutes.

Well, with only 64K on your car, you shouldn't be having any significant problems with it yet. I would drain out the transmission fluid and refill it, chances are it has never been done which means you have 16 year old fluid in there.

Another possibility is that the shifter bushing is bad. It's extremely common for them to break on our cars. When they do break, you have to put the selector down into second, then put it into drive for it to work. If you just shift into drive, most of the time the car stays in neutral. Also, it's a pain to get the car into park, you really have to force the lever forward.

Well, in any case, replace the transmission fluid with a good quality ATF, preferably something formulated for higher mileage engines, Valvoline would be a good choice. Also, make sure you put the right amount in, if you put too little or too much in then your transmission won't shift properly and you will prematurely wear out the tranny and torque converter.

If your shifter bushing is bad, you can pretty much live with it, though it's only $5 to replace, but there isn't much info out there on how to replace it. All I know is that you have to get underneath the car to do it. In the mean time, shift down to second then push it back up into drive and it should engage without a problem.

-C-

Charles Bisel

One more thing and this is very important. Whatever you do, DO NOT flush the transmission. If you want to replace the ATF in there, do a drain and fill. A flush will almost certainly destroy your transmission. The pressure of the flush is too powerful for these weak transmissions to handle, so it pretty much wreaks havoc on the valves and the seals inside there. I've heard a few horror stories about it, especially on the 3rd gen board. After they did the flush, the car wouldn't shift out of first gear.

-C-

Edge

I did have a drain and refill done just recently (within 500 mi), but not the flush for the reasons you mention. The dealer recommended the flush - but I refused. I have heard a d&r can do it too if the trans has a above 80k with the original fluid, but with 16 yrs and 64K that could be enough. The symptoms are as you describe as far as the shifting. Anything about the whine - it is in all gears including park and neutral. Maybe it's time for a rebuilt trans- yikes$$$.

Thanks

MoonKnight

Hm well what about this... my 88 se's transmission feels like it's stuck in 2nd gear when I start it cold. However, after 30 seconds to 5 minutes of driving it shifts fine. I already changed the tranny fluid.

Charles Bisel

Well, if it's sticking in 3rd gear when you start cold, that's perfectly normal. It keeps the car from shifting into overdrive until the transmission is warmed up in order to prevent damage to the torque converter and transmission.

If your sure it's stuck in 2nd gear and not 3rd, I'd first check the transmission fluid and make sure it's at the right level. Low ATF levels can be responsible for it not shifting. It could be shifting properly after it's warmed up because the ATF expands and puts enough pressure to cause it to shift.

Also, it's possible that your seals are leaking and not letting enough pressure to build up to shift the transmission. In that case, you will eventually need a rebuild, but I'd live with it for as long as possible, as a rebuild costs around $1500.

As I mentioned, mine sticks in first, only during the winters when it's extremely cold. My seals are probably slightly leaking and it's only noticeable when it's really cold. Either that or the valves aren't opening because they're old and the cold weather compounds the problem.

-C-

Edge

Well, listening to the whine again this afternoon, it sounds like it's coming from the engine rather than the trans. Tough to locate where it is coming from even with my stethoscope. T-belt cover, ac, alternato, idler pulley and PS pump sound OK. The whine sounds like it comes from the center of the pulley side of the engine. The t-belt, waterpump and drive belts were changed at the shop about 500 mi ago. Any ideas?

MaxWgn

iTrader: (1)

find out if the shop replaced the timing belt tensioner when they did the belt...if not, have them do it, before it fails, and mr. piston and miss. valve fall for each other...in the worst possible way...

MoonKnight

Alright I'll check the ATF level later, I was just out driving so I'm gonna wait until it cools.

Yea I'm sure it's 2nd gear, not 3rd because there's a kick when it finally starts shifting normally. It's not 1st gear because I've felt what it feels like when you drive in 1st gear and it's definately not that.

Charles Bisel

I don't have my Chiltons book on hand, but if I remember correctly you have to check the ATF when it's warm. Don't quote me on that though, I'd double check the Chiltons or FSM to check it properly. I also know that you have to shift through all of the gears from Park to First and back. Like I said, check the manual so you can get the most accurate reading.

Also, if you have to add some ATF, only add a bit at a time.

-C-

SmokinSpecV

Could be the waterpump. The manual that came with my new(remanufactured ASUGI?(same name as on the engine block)) said that the waterpump bolts have to be tightened evenly and not too tight to avoid warping or over tightening the pump. If it gets warped or crushed too far into the block it might rub someplace inside. As a diagnostic, you could try removing the waterpump/powersteering belt and running it (a few minutes without fresh coolant on a cold engine will not hurt it) to check the waterpump.

Leigh