Hello!

On my 88 Maxima SE I need to replace the left rear bearings (and seal). I am familar with the whole process, what I need some tipps is on how to adjust the bearing clearance at the end. Manual says, use torque wrench, I'd prefer not to spend money on such tool.

More than 15 years ago I used to work on French and Italian cars, on those I had the thumb rule of
1. Thighten it with the weight of your arm
2. Loosen it 90 degree
3. Thighten it again until you can only feel a "**** of an ant" (translated straight from Hungarian play while you are moving the wheel in&out grabbing the tire in the position of 12 and 6 o'clock position. (while you're pushing the top, pulling the bottom then vica versa)
(of course between the steps you have to keep turning the wheel once or twice, so that the bearings can "sit in" evenly.

So, my question is: once a bearing is adjusted properly, do you suppose to feel any freeplay if you are shaking the tire in the mentioed position in and out?

If you're not suppose to, how do you adjust the bearing clearance?
Any good tipp?

Thanks,
Geza
Reseda, CA

P.s.: 1 year ago I had the same bearings replaced by a technician, obviously he didn't know what he was doing because it's humming again.
this is why I decided to do it myself at this time.

 

No, you're not supposed to feel any play at all once the bearing is properly seated. However, one thing that could be causing it is excessive play in the trailing arm bushings, ettc./..it may not be the bearing allowing the play...

 

Maxwgn,
Thanks for replying!
So, should I tighten the nut second time (while I am spinning the wheel) until I can not feel any freeplay at all, or you have a better method?

Geza

 

The method I've always used to set wheel bearing is tighten the nut finger tight, then snug it down just until you feel some drag on the hub when turned. Turn it by hand both directions, a couple of times - while doing this, you may feel the amount of drag loosen a little...if so, snug it back down again, and turn again. After this, lossen the nut back out, until all drag is gone. The nut should still be tight enough to allow the hub to spin, without backing out so easily. Turn it again, and then micro adjust the nut until it spins freely, with no noise, and no drag. Install the castle retaining washer, if equipped, and then the cotter pin.

Never had any problems using this method. I learned it from my dad, who's been doing it the same way for over 60 years, without any problems...

 

Mawwgn,
Thank you for the step by step instructions, it will be a greap help!
Geza