simple question....which spark plug is the best kind to use on our cars?

preferably something platnum so i dont have to change them so often but i would inderstand if those didnt work to well

 

OEM NGK's work perfectly, I had run bosche plat but the engine didnt seem to run as smooth as with the NGK's.

 

does any thing work better?

 

NGK V-Resistors are what I use. Anything from NGK will be the best for this car IMHO. If you want longetivity, you can try using NGK Iridium's....but for $6-10 per plugs, it isn't worth it if you ask me.

S

 

I got DENSO Iridium IQ20 sparkplugs in mine. They are solid!
Definately an excellent choice. I dropped 'em in my engine since January...recently checked them and they are still running good. No damage on it. They are about $10+ EACH. But not a bad investment. Check out Nopionline.com for more info.

PEACE

 

$10 X 6 = $60 + Shipping = it cost way to much before shipping...

holy carp man thats an awful lot for just spark plugs...i need to get new wires too because they'll zap you if you gram em in the middle...sheilding hasnt been rubbed off or any thing it'll just zap you....NGK.com had a wire set i figure i'll order the plugs and wires

 

I've used those 4-way Bosch plugs. They're ok. No matter what plug you use, it always fires better when brand new. The twin or four prongs just help to prevent misfires in the long run. (longer lasting) They don't nessisarily fire hotter or stronger. Your ignition system puts out the power.
I had a Z shop tell me that the old Z's came from the factory with NGK and they run best with them. They're cheap and I just replace them as often as I like. He said use Bosch on European cars, NGK on Japanese cars. hehe...

 

you think new plugs would help with knocking?

for some reason its getting pretty bad and i just filled with plus and it used to only knock with regular

 

sounds like your timing is off, maybe to far advanced, plugs, wires, cap and rotor should help out along with a timing check, TB cleaning and maybe a new air filter if needed.

S

 

air filter although looks like its made from printer paper is new...we adjusted the timing before and it was fine for a while...

tommorow i'm gonna flush, stop leak (just in case) and refill my radiator, rust bulid up in my systems so bad that its still cold out side but the temp meter still goes a ways past the middle....i open up the resivor and its orange and so coudy you cant see the bottom

it seems that all these types of things happen at once...

oh and i was wondering is there an easier way to check the timing with a light?

....my pa and i adjusted it as best as we could but with a regular gun style timing light it was kinda hard because of the location of the timing marks and the hoses that were in the way....it got better for a while after we did adjust it though...till now

 

hmm, are you losing coolant? Is the radiator empty when you check it? Hmmm, if it is empty, than you got a leak somewhere, if it isn't, then your thermostat is stuck closed.

S

 

no i'm not leaking coolant, and i'm pretty sure the thermostat isnt stuck closed, some times after driving all day its bubbles (like its boiling) in the over flow, and if the thermostat were stuck closed wouldnt it always say its running so hot and wouldnt it prevent the coolant to get to the heater core so my heater wouldnt work?

or do our cars use some other way for the heater (mabe i'm stuck on old fashond ways)?

the heater still works and i'm sure its working....you should see the coolant its pretty bad

 

ummm....all cars work the same. The thermostat, prevent coolant from flowing into the radiator. The heater core gets coolant before the thermostat, not after. Also the boilover your getting is from the coolant that is so hot that it reverse heating from through the feed hose from the radiator. This is what causes the coolant to heat up in the radiator. So indeed you do have a closed thermostat.

S

 

well...since i'll be in there i'll pop it out and see whats goin on....umm...

or not...these friggin chiltons manuals have pictures and all...but its hard to tell what the picture is of and/or where it is....

could it just be bulid up and would flushing it possibly un-stuck it?

 

Anyone every use those SplitFire plugs?

 

Umm no, you can't make a thermostat become unstuck....even if you did, I wouldn't trust the reliablility of it. Quite honestly, thermostat's are cheap, just replace it with a new one.

S

 

You can't really fix a stuck thermostat, besides they are cheap, so you should really be replacing it anyway.

S

 

well uhh....i got news and even with my limited mechanical skills i am pretty sure it isnt my thermostat now....i've flushed it with water from the hose a few times (5 or 6....lost count) and its just now getting clear...i've got some prestone super flush in it so i'm gonna go drive arround (i got a gallon o water in the trunk and i'm not gonna go far) to get it through the system good....theres alot of rust sediment in the bottom os the buckets....the reason i know is because the radiators **** (teeheehee) fell in one and i had to fish it out...rust prevents the car from cooling off right? well i think it'll be better now because i can now bulid a red desert with all the sandy rust flakes in the bottom of these things...i'll be back in a few,

i'm gonna start a new thread this isnt about spark plugs any more is it? (psst..... i'll have pics in the new thread)