fix one problem find another (orange fiber shake pics inside)
fix one problem find another (orange fiber shake pics inside)
ok since my sparkplug thread turned into my orange coolant thread i thought i should make a new one...today i flushed my system 7 gallons of red-orange "coolant" its still pretty cloudy but atleast its green from the antifreeze instead of red so i know its ok and i can tell where the bottom is in the over flow tank...
heres what came out:


it is indeed orange, the camera makes it out ot be brown, it isnt though so dont worry, no oil. i cant tell you how many times i flushed it, i just kinda sat there with the hose running and had a tight seal arround the radiator cap opening and ran the water untill it started comming out the bottom of the radiator fairly clear, its still a bit cloudy but i hope the antifreeze and additives will help that for when i do this again mabe i can get it clear, thermostat isnt stuck closed....never gets past half way now and i drove a while...but...
another problem has arisen, when i filled it up and put super flush in there i drove arround to get it warmed up and so i went to the store to get stop leak because i was worried about the ammount of rust that came out so i figured i should get it just incase. i returned some cans, went in, got the stop leak (with the deposit from the cans it was kinda cool because it felt like they were giving me money for taking something) any way come out and try to turn the car on and it goes PATINK and goes dead, no dinging nothing...crap now i need a new starter i think (my truck did the same then when my pa and i were rebuliding it) so i pop the hood and mess arround with some things and the electrics come back on, try to start it again and it still goes PATINK and goes dead. i fiddle a few times and finally i narrow it down to my fusable links (on the fender wall behind the battery, drivers side) so every time i pushed down on them the car comes back and things are fine and finllay it starts, so....my new question is...
do i NEED fusable links or could i get a meatal deal and jam it in there so i dont have to screw with it or is there a good replacement fusable link out there some place?
heres what came out:


it is indeed orange, the camera makes it out ot be brown, it isnt though so dont worry, no oil. i cant tell you how many times i flushed it, i just kinda sat there with the hose running and had a tight seal arround the radiator cap opening and ran the water untill it started comming out the bottom of the radiator fairly clear, its still a bit cloudy but i hope the antifreeze and additives will help that for when i do this again mabe i can get it clear, thermostat isnt stuck closed....never gets past half way now and i drove a while...but...
another problem has arisen, when i filled it up and put super flush in there i drove arround to get it warmed up and so i went to the store to get stop leak because i was worried about the ammount of rust that came out so i figured i should get it just incase. i returned some cans, went in, got the stop leak (with the deposit from the cans it was kinda cool because it felt like they were giving me money for taking something) any way come out and try to turn the car on and it goes PATINK and goes dead, no dinging nothing...crap now i need a new starter i think (my truck did the same then when my pa and i were rebuliding it) so i pop the hood and mess arround with some things and the electrics come back on, try to start it again and it still goes PATINK and goes dead. i fiddle a few times and finally i narrow it down to my fusable links (on the fender wall behind the battery, drivers side) so every time i pushed down on them the car comes back and things are fine and finllay it starts, so....my new question is...
do i NEED fusable links or could i get a meatal deal and jam it in there so i dont have to screw with it or is there a good replacement fusable link out there some place?
I dunno man.....you seem to want to jury rig your car more than fix it. I dunno if I should tell to fix it or not. :P Oh well what the hell.....try replacing the particular fusible link. It could be frayed near there the wire meets the contact.
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right...agreed...but note, those links are not available in any parts store...either a dealership, or maybe froma parts car...only source...if you wanna go the cheapie route, at least find out what the amperage rating is, and use in-line fuses...by all means, DO NOT just insert some sort of metal shunt. If you do, and even something minor shorts out, you're likely to fry EVERYTHING.
BTW, the conditions sound the same as mine except my lin kwas totally fried...it's likely gonna be the one closest to the front of the car, with the fiberglass sleeve covering the wire...that's the main link, and damn near EVERYTHING gets power from that link, except the exterior lights and the fuel pump...the starter does, as does the alt, etc...
in any case, good luck...
BTW, the conditions sound the same as mine except my lin kwas totally fried...it's likely gonna be the one closest to the front of the car, with the fiberglass sleeve covering the wire...that's the main link, and damn near EVERYTHING gets power from that link, except the exterior lights and the fuel pump...the starter does, as does the alt, etc...
in any case, good luck...
so what the hell makes it so special? isnt it just a wire with a thingy over it (yea the same one)...so couldnt i get a similar guage/resistant wire and solder it in there (and not make it so damn long)...or is there something special about it?
and why the hell dont they make them to replace?
and why the hell dont they make them to replace?
ummm, if you want to do it that way....be my fricken guest. It's not my car. If you feel you can make a "better" fusible link, do so. I don't like having to jury rig something. If I have to jury rig, I make sure that I get it fixed as soon as possible. I dunno about you, but some of us want our cars to last. And yes they do make replacements, I was able to find em at shucks has the wireless fusible link that works, you just have to make sure it's the right amperage. They look slightly different from the stock ones, so it's easy to overlook em.
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woah wait, why did MaxWgn say they werent available? thats the only reason i said i would try to solder a new one in...some times i swear you people are trying to confuse me
This particular one is hard if not impossible to find in the normal fusible link....and yes, they are a very special type of wire. They use a special, amperage responsive, quick burn wire...so when they blow, they don't just melt, and catch fire, like a normal wire would...they just "break" like a fuse...
If you try and jury-rig it like you're talking about, all you're going to end up doing is causing more damage to the car. Something caused it to break...and if you don't replace it properly, that link feeds power to the ECU, and basically everything else in the car...and they will all go kaput...
If you have to jury-rig it somehow, please use a proper 10-gauge in-line fuse holder, and probably about a 30-50 amp fuse...that's what my dealershipo recommended to me to try, while waiting for my link to be ordered...
and the MSRP on the fuse from the dealer is only about $13...so it's not a real bank breaker...
If you try and jury-rig it like you're talking about, all you're going to end up doing is causing more damage to the car. Something caused it to break...and if you don't replace it properly, that link feeds power to the ECU, and basically everything else in the car...and they will all go kaput...
If you have to jury-rig it somehow, please use a proper 10-gauge in-line fuse holder, and probably about a 30-50 amp fuse...that's what my dealershipo recommended to me to try, while waiting for my link to be ordered...
and the MSRP on the fuse from the dealer is only about $13...so it's not a real bank breaker...
Originally Posted by Niku-Sama
woah wait, why did MaxWgn say they werent available? thats the only reason i said i would try to solder a new one in...some times i swear you people are trying to confuse me
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