Pics!
#1
#3
Thanks! I purposely painted the whole bumper so I could see what it would look like, but I haven't yet decided whether to paint the side mouldings to match the bumper, or paint the part of the bumper that was black back the way it was. Are you going to colour match your side mouldings as well as your bumper?
#4
Actually, I removed my side molding. I do how ever need to fix the paint that got striped because I didn't remove the molding with a heat gun, so some of the adhesive took up paint. Here's some pics:
It's pretty easy to do if you use a heat gun. The adhesive will come right off. Just don't do it like I did with fishing wires and finger nails! :P
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It's pretty easy to do if you use a heat gun. The adhesive will come right off. Just don't do it like I did with fishing wires and finger nails! :P
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#5
Hehe, yeah I know. I'm a painter at a body shop so I know all the tricks! BTW my paint job was free ( sneak it in after work ). I left mine on so it would match the same contour as what's on the bumper. But yours looks good without it. Too bad it's too late now, it'll be blue underneath it.
#6
Cool, quick question for you, for the strips I have on the door, I know that I would need to blend the paint, but how big of an area should I paint? I know I'm gonna have to sand down the area that the paint came up, but do I need to sand a lot of the surrounding area? Also what kind of cheap paint sprayer can I get to do this job? I don't want it to be overly elaborate as well as inexpensive. When I painted my grill and cornering lamp trim (which I still need to post pics off, paint matched amazingly well, but I need to fix some things on the cornering lamps, got a little over spray on the lenses because my masking job wasn't the greatest, they aren't very noticable, but you can tell when you look close, I accidently rubbed up a little of the paint on one side when I was moving the corners back inside after they were sitting outside for a little bit), I used the spray can the paint came in I got from paintscratch.com.
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#7
Check some autobody supply stores, you can get blending solvent in aerosol cans. Basically the procedure would be this: If there is a body line close to it then you can "soft edge" it there. what you do is mask it with 2" tape right along the edge, with the center of the tape on the edge. then you peel back the tape to form a roll along the body line. no need for blending here and not very noticeable. Where you don't have an edge you just soft edge out an area about 6-8 inches around where the spot is. only sand it enough to feather the edge of the paint out and use 400grit so you don't end up seeing sandscratches under the paint. First you dust a light coat of blending solvent over the area to soften the old paint so the new paint will melt in. As soon as it flashes off you can put on a coat of paint. With metallics you want to sort of "flick" the paint towards the center of the area to prevent getting too much of a halo from the metallics. Just cover the sanded area. Then using the blending solvent, spray a very thin coat again around the dry edge of the repair to blend it out, you might have to do a few thin passes. After it has cured, like the next day, you can go over your blend area with a little rubbing compound and it should be close to invisible.
#8
Cool, thanks for the tip! I'll probably be doing this pretty soon. I have to wait to paint the bumpers however until I get my front bumper cover, but I've been slowly working it. I got to pull my tail lights and door handles so I can paint those (if yours were like mine, the original paint has flaked off on some of the handles). Either way, aiming to get that Shiro Edition paint look, but with Dark Red Metallic instead of white.
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