my car is starting to make me mad... i finally got the idler pully fixed, and the power steering and water pump belt on my 85 wagon, but i had problems when i started the car. The problem is that the engine stalls out under 1000 RPM's, it runs very rough, and its tough getting it started. Could this be casued by one of the belts being too lose or tight? one thing i think is that when my friend was messing with the car, he took out the distributor, could this cause the engine to run like it is?

 

yes...he didn't get the distributor back in on the correct timing...it's off a couple of degrees, and possibly off enough that you won't be able to properly time it without pulling it again, and reseating it correctly...

 

Sounds like it is advanced way too much. Your throttle is probably extra responsive while in neutral, but won't idle low as you mentioned. That is what happened to me when I had the distributor set up wrong. I was +22 deg. Should be about 10 or 12.

 

Actually, the 2nd gens run about 20-22 deg. but it does sound like he's over-advanced.

 

Ever find what the problem was?

 

how do you recomend setting the timing on these engines with the calssic timing light.

 

A timing light would definately help. I've tried resetting my timing without one and that proved to be unsuccessful.

S

 

I've never used a timing light. I just keep advancing it a bit, then go for a drive and floor it and see if it pings.I just keep doing that and when I get to the point where it pings I back it off a hair so it doesn't ping and leave it there.

 

hahahahhahhaha....that sounds like something I would do...If I am not mistaken a timing light is only about 30 bux...I always barrow my neighbors so I am not positive.

 

wherer are the tick marks located on the main pulley to set the timing? are they on top or on bottom?

 

they are on the side of the pully.....pull your passenger side front tire off and get in there and find the right mark for your timing and put white out on that mark so you can see it...the marks are in 5 degree increments....it is written up in the haynes manual...but in my manual it says to set the timing at 15 degrees...but you better look at the sticker under the hood because my sticker actully said 20 degrees....set it to what your sticker says.

 

my car was involved in a fender bender a few years before i purchased it. im guessing the hood was replaced because it does not have any stickers located on the underside. i dont have a manual yet so im kinda a little behind in the times <-- (lamest joak i ever said). i've already pulled the tire and the protective cover to get to the pully. if i want to set the timing to 15 deg before top dead center which mark would i set it to. the pully spins clockwise, would i come in 3 tic marks from the right or 3 from the left if im looking at it head on.
matt

 

Thats correct...my only problem is I cant remember which hash mark comes first (in the clockwise motion) its either 0 or 30, but then they are in 5 degree increments...if your car has the same timing as mine (I have an 87 SE) then you should mark the 20 degree line rather than the 15....hope this helps, I guess now the only thing you need is someone to varify which hash mark comes first.
**Also a hint about where to shine the timing light in...I could not see the timing marker from the 'top' so I found an opening that I could see the mark from right behind the passenger side head light...you will see what I mean when you try to look in there to set your timing.

 

my chilton manual just arrived today...its the only book i will ever read in my life. anywho the book says there are 8 tic marks.. the far left is 0 deg and the far right is 35 deg. so you are supposed to line up the arrow with the 4th or center tic mark which is 20 deg according to the manual. the manual also said 15deg btdc is safe if you notice pinging otherwise set it to 20 deg for 1985-1988 vg30e engines. the correct procedure is as follows

1 start engine and allow it to reach normal operating tempurature. make sure all accessories are turned off radio defrost heat etc.
2 use the emergency brake place the transaxal in nutral raise hood and run the engine at about 2000 rpm for 2 minutes under no load.
3 check for codes from the ecu. if there are none continue to step 4
4 disconnect the idle-up solenoid while the engine is running the idle up solenoid is located on the back left of the intake manifold. it has two solenoids with groups of wires attatched that join up at 1 plug. just disconnect the plug
5 if the engine runs smoothly race it 2-3 times above 3000rpm under no load then allow the engine to idle again for about 1 minute
6 use a timing light and check the timing to specifications. if timing is off loosen the distributor and rotate it counterclockwise to retard timing and clockwise to advance it.

here is a chart in order of year ..mt=manual transmition at=automatic transmition. Timing is in degrees before top dead center NOTE for years 1985-1988(that's us) place automatic transmition back in drive while setting timing if aplicable.
year----engine----displacement-spark gap--ignition timing-fuel pump--idle speed
--------------------in liters--------in.------mt-----at-------psi----mt---at
1985----vg30e-------3.0-------.039-.043---20----20-------37----700---700
1986----vg30e-------3.0-------.039-.043---20----20-------37----700---700
1987----vg30e-------3.0-------.039-.043---20----20-------37----750---700
1988----vg30e-------3.0-------.039-.043---15----20-------37----750---700
1989----vg30e-------3.0-------.039-.043---15----15-------36----750---750

hope this helps everyone. i double checked all numbers before completing the post. sticky?....only time can tell

 

Wow, that is excellent info. Definately worth stickying.

S