2 questions..........
03-20-2005, 11:37 PM
#2
1...shouldn't be too hard, going to need to raise the motor a little probably.
2...The 2nd gen bluebird doors most likely will not work considering the pillarless design, and complete different rear window and angle.
S
2...The 2nd gen bluebird doors most likely will not work considering the pillarless design, and complete different rear window and angle.
S
03-21-2005, 06:33 AM
#3
Oil Pan Gasket...
Raise the engine, and support it from above (I used a 4x4 post, and a 3/8 link chain, connected to the motor-mount anchors).
Remove the cross member...
Loosen ALL of the pan bolts, and then LIGHTLY tap the pan with a rubber mallet, or a small block of wood, to break it's seal to the block.
Remove the bolts, and drop the pan...
Thoroughly clean both surfaces - block AND pan...while you're in here, examine the oil in the bottom of the pan that DID NOT drain out...after 230k miles, mine had no metal debris in it...
Forget the replacement gasket - use a thick bead of the blus RTV based gasket maker instead...all around the pan flange...
Bolt it back up, torquing it down in the correct order...reinstall the cross-member, and drop the engine back down...
Let the car sit for a MINIMUM of 24 hours for the RTV to cure BEFORE pouring oil into the crankcase...
Not too hard, but quite time consuming...
And for some of the pan bolts, you WILL need a U-Joint adapter...
Good luck...
Raise the engine, and support it from above (I used a 4x4 post, and a 3/8 link chain, connected to the motor-mount anchors).
Remove the cross member...
Loosen ALL of the pan bolts, and then LIGHTLY tap the pan with a rubber mallet, or a small block of wood, to break it's seal to the block.
Remove the bolts, and drop the pan...
Thoroughly clean both surfaces - block AND pan...while you're in here, examine the oil in the bottom of the pan that DID NOT drain out...after 230k miles, mine had no metal debris in it...
Forget the replacement gasket - use a thick bead of the blus RTV based gasket maker instead...all around the pan flange...
Bolt it back up, torquing it down in the correct order...reinstall the cross-member, and drop the engine back down...
Let the car sit for a MINIMUM of 24 hours for the RTV to cure BEFORE pouring oil into the crankcase...
Not too hard, but quite time consuming...
And for some of the pan bolts, you WILL need a U-Joint adapter...
Good luck...
03-21-2005, 02:07 PM
#5
Well, when using the rubber gasket, you need to use the RTV anyway, to seal it to the pan...and Nissan recommends using the pure RTV Make-A-Gasket route, over the rubber unit...
Wish I'd found that out when doing mine...it's a pain in the a$$ to keep the gasket lined up...after almost an hour of trying to get it straight, when I torqued it down, the gasket still squirmed from between the block and the pan, at the front crank main seal location...so I STILL leak oil...ARGH!
Wish I'd found that out when doing mine...it's a pain in the a$$ to keep the gasket lined up...after almost an hour of trying to get it straight, when I torqued it down, the gasket still squirmed from between the block and the pan, at the front crank main seal location...so I STILL leak oil...ARGH!
03-25-2005, 09:01 PM
#6
Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 41
If your know what your doing the oil pan gasket shoudlnt take long. I had to support the engine from above with a fixture. Remove the crossmember and the mounts holding it. You might have to remove the flexpipe it just depends if the oil pan comes off with ease or not. I removed the screws and one of them broke off so i have to drill it out so be careful when taking the screws out. I get a regular oil pan gasket the rubber type because i heard that just using that liquid gasket leaks a whole lot. Use RTV sealant around the lips of the of the pan the half circle places and you should be good. Good luck