Im gonna try to get a cheap digital camera so I can make a write up on this so bear with me.

I got the rebuild kit yesterday, and should begin the rebuild this weekend. I plan on going a steady pace so I don't screw up too bad.

This is what I have:
FSM
Master Rebuild kit
Hayden oil cooler
Valve body mod


I want to hear from anyone who has rebuilt a trany and has tips of things to watch out for. Maxwgn has given me advise before, but If there is anything else you can think of please post.

My cars symptoms were, no forward drive. It began as a mere slip but it totally wont engage anymore. But it does go in reverse. The FSM says either worn high, low clutch. Or bad line pressure.

Here goes nothing
Thanks for the help guys.

 

Update:

Well my civic started making weird noises so I had to make sure that it was working before I could work on the Max. So that weekend was shot. And now Im waiting to get my car back from the dealer. The crank pulley is bent and shredded the belt. Which was slapping against the firewall. Its always something.

I still need an oil filter kit. And some gloves,lights,cherry picker, camera.

I still haven't pulled the rest of the driveshaft out of the trany.

Progress is slow, but this has to get done so... I just have to do it.

 

Do you mean "manualizing" your auto so that you can control the shifts? In Australia, this is a popular thing to do to some cars like old Datsun automatics.

Oh, and one word for the camera; ebay.

 

The valve body just improves the shifts. By making the shifts engage quicker so there isn't as much heat generated by the trany. Also the car will shift way better than normal. For an autotragic thats all you can really do for them.

 

So I decided to use my vacation time this year to work on the max. Im getting all the parts Im gonna need ready for my vacation week. I still need a new driveshaft. I think its like 140-160 from napa for a new one. Then the oil filter. Then I guess small stuff like cotter pins and such. Maybe more tools!

I love buying tools.

Peace

 

Okay ordered the AT filter kit. Got new rotors. Now I need the cherry picker. Im probably going to get one from pep boys. I was gonna drop the trany and take the easy way out, but i seemed to me like more work than to just take out the eng/trans together. Besides I still need to replace the thermostat, and the fuel filter. I think Ive lost it here guys. Im gonna get a new radiator and grille. After that I will have fixed most of whats wrong with this car. Thats kinda scary. Although the prospect of beating my bros 02 sentra 1.8 with an 88 autotragic is just too much to pass up. Damn I have problems.

Hey I want to know if there is a certain tool to use for removing snap rings, and circular clips?

 

wait for the driveshaft d you mean the axle? if so i got an axle from worldwide carparts fot 50.00 bucks with a 50.00 dollar core so in retrospect i for the axle for 50.00 bucks. but if it is a driveshaft for rwd get it from one of the autoshop stores itl be much cheaper.

 

Yeah front axle, driveshaft. It cost like 140-160 for a new one from napa after the core charge so Ill probably go there. You get a discount if you have AAA too.

 

im tellin ya try to find a worldwide its a 100 dollar difference

 

When you're done there, come fix my problems. Then I'll beat both you and your brothers sentra.

S

 

All your problems exist in your head. I can't fix that! Except for the broken crossmember. I don't know how the hell that happened?

Have you checked this site for parts yet? http://www.neoshotruck2.com/nwp/firstvisit.htm

 

Cross member they have there is for an auto it looks like. I have 2 heads...and they both appear to work fine....er wait....

S

 

Wow!!!
I didn't need to know that.
Your a sick, sick, man.

 

I was talking about my car man....what were you thinking?

 

Okay maybe Im the sick, sick man?!?

 

ROFL 10 chars

 

I got the engine hoist yesterday! Now if I could get off my *** and get this thing going. Still need to remove the right side of the driveshaft(front axle). Its in such an awkward position its hard to work on it. I have to unbolt it from the frame and undue a circular clip and then use a screw driver to push it out from the trany.

Its kinda intimidating to see all the parts for the rebuild kit. I wonder if I just replace the seal on the valve body if the car would work???
Oh well since Im going to have it open I should just do it.

Just need the new grill and radiator and im set. I think after all this is done Im going to look at all my receipts and cry!

 

some german cars had a feature for it to shift if you fluttered the throttle....some time when i am screwing arround i can get it to shift when i want it to if i am going hard at it....kinda like all the way to the floor in first starting out comming althe way out and going right back in but just enough ti keep it from shifting back into 1st untill my speed is enough to floor it in 2nd....

problem is it gives a harsh shift and i am sure its hurting something, not to mension the starving and then the sudden release of fuel...