Some of you may remember that I used to have cold starting problems in my 87 max. Now that my brother is driving the car the problem has gotten worse. He usually has to crank the car several times before it will stay running while he is hitting the gas a little. I pulled codes the other day in the car and I got a code for the ignition siginal circut (hanyes manual says to take it to the dealer for this....I say no thanks) does anyone know what causes this problem? The car runs great once it is warmed up, just like always. Also I pulled to code for the cylinder head temp sensor. The sensor and harness in this car have about 10-15k on them. I had them done when I did the timing belt, and I have always thrown this code...so I don't know whats up with this one. The car is not getting worse gas mileage or anything like that. I have replaced the AAV, with one that I did the fix on, and that did not help either. I have adjusted the idle 8 million times, but nothing seems to help. Any ideas? My brother is getting ready to take the car out of town to where he is moving so my dad wants to get the car straight for him before he leaves in less than a week.

 

Have you tested the CHTS at all? Any vacuum leaks? AAV is the next culprit.

S

 

If I recall you have to pull the timing belt cover off to do that...correct? As for vacuum leaks...I may have some, I really should get a vacuum gauge. What should our cars read? I honestly do not think its the aav, I have the screw turned down on the fixed on so the car idles at 1500 when cold.

 

Hard to start when it's cool: It should be the Cool start air supply issue which was mentioned in above Sticky by Kelyfinn.

I did fix it as his instruction and it works so well sofar: Cool start at 1000RPM at cool and 850RPM at normal operation temp.

 

No, I believe the timing belt cover can stay on. The thermostat and radiator hose has to come out though. I assume vacuum is much the same like a VQ...so between 18-22hg is probably good.

CHTS would probably be the culprit. IIRC I remember having trouble with mine and cold starts...and was throwing a code for it.

S

 

Your problems 100% exactly mirror the s**t I've going through with my car. Random codes, ARV fix from the sticky, idle adjustment, all to have my hopes fall again. My problem: hairline cracks in about 4 of my vacuume lines near my EGR valve. When the lines are cold there hard, so the cracks stay open. Once warm, they become soft and pliable and the vacuum kind of sucks the cracks together, returning my car to the one I used to know.

 

I have all new vacuum lines.

A shop looked at the car and they said that its the AIV. That thing over by the TPS/TB. They want like 300-400 bucks just in parts!!! I am going to try to find someone parting a car or get one from a junkyard. I'll report back, but from reading in my manual it sounds as if they may be onto something. The valve injects air into the intake manifold on start up, and deceleration. Thoughts?

 

where is the cheapest place to get an AAV/air regulator? I found them on imported car parts for 75. Does anyone know somewhere better?

 

I saw one somewhere for like 65. Let me check.

 

http://www.autopartsauthority.com/oe...~oemparts.html

38.28 for the Manual tranny one.

 

http://www.maximumautoparts.com/NI_A...002_items.html

60 bucks here.

This is the place I was talking about.

 

thanks Q, the guys at the shop told my dad it was a 300 dollar part

 

They say the AIV is causing your problems? All it does is inject air into the exhaust stream...none of it actually goes thru the engine. So I don't think it's that + $300 for a part...they are full of themselves.

S

 

are the air regulator valves a nissan part or does bosch make that for them. I am waiting on a call back from my parts guy at nissan, and the only ones I am finding on the net are made by bosch.

 

Same here. I havent seen any Nissan Branded ones.

 

nissan parts dept charges $150 for it here...who makes it is beyond me....

i wonder what the internal differences are between the auto and manual aav's

 

That is my question. I dont think it would matter unless one cars aav lets in more or less air for the car at start up.

 

I don't think there is a difference. They look identical to me.

S

 

I think the auto and manual ones may be different. Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesnt the idle speed differ between the two trans. The ARV does make an impact on the idle speed.

 

Wow, my parts guy told me the list on it was $104. And yes, there are two different part numbers on the auto v. manual. They are differnt nissan p/n's.

 

Wow, better scoop up a cheaper one.

 

air injection valve, i donno

what are those thingys that the vaccum lines plug into that have the screens on top? the fuel regulator is connected to one, and there are 2 over by the brake fluid res.

the screens on mine are clogged and i am wonderin if that has any thing to do with it, i have a feeling mine are ignition related though, related to the pinging and the dipping idle...i think, i'll explain in another thread i'ma bout to make.

 

oi, same problems with mine. Prices make me

 

Well I ended up canceling the order for the cheaper AAV because that place did not have them in stock and had no clue when they would be getting any more. So I got one from nissan. While the car was at the shop they repaired a wire coming from the the idle adjustment unit, and I replaced the AAV. The car is doing much better now on cold starts though it is not perfect (but it never was). After I replaced the AAV I reset the computer as well, hoping this may have fixed the ignition signal error code and the CHTS code I have been throwing. Also the AAV that I got from Nissan is a nissan part, so the bosch is a knock off.

 

How much did you pay for the nissan part?

 

$85, if you can get parts for a discount like I do then you may be able to get it for that. If not the list on the part is $104.

 

what wire?

and is it normal to be able to screw the idle adjustment screw all the way in and barely make it to acceptable idle speed?

 

Two wires coming off the top of that idle adjustment thing had e-tape on them so I assume that is what they fixed. When I put the screw all the way in, it makes a big difference in idle speed.

 

bump......bump

 

why did you bump this?

 

Cause he's a Chuckin Re Re!! LOL

 

Re Re or Ray Ray?

Free bump to annoy Carson.

S

 

Di#k...............

 

Asshat! .........

 

sorry to ressurect such a dead thread but i didint want to make my own.

the other day i was tweakin arround and i tried something new. i decided to adjust the BCDD in an effort to eliminate my pinging at temp. but i didnt notice any change to start off with so i thought i would start the car in the morning, and adjust it and when i did that it was rough and low in RPM but adjusting it fixed it more or less.

so go out start the car so it it'll stay running by it self for a little bit, then turn the screw in the BCDD CLOCKWISE it should smooth out.
mine did, no pinging now either.

just rember how many times you turn it so if it dosent work you can turn it back, i went one turn mabe more.

 

Good info. Thats the thing right on the front of the manifold correct?

 

yea. careful, the rubber cap that covers the adjustment screw is usually pretty crispy, odds are your gonna break it. but if your careful you might get away with it.