I was going to try to shoot for the words fastest maxima. 11.39 right or not?

Well to the point of the story. I have a 87 maxima with a VG 33 outa a 01 frontier super charged. Took the super charger off of it and turboed it. Now I am shooting for about 600WHP and 750FTQ. I want to run low 10s and be streetable.

I need to figure out the best way to stiffen the rear of these cars. I thought about getting some springs off a 1 ton pickup or something. The car ran a 12.3 on 20" slicks and the weight transfer was so bad on it it was pitiful. On street tires it will spin in 1st, 2nd, and the bottem half of 3rd.

I dont want this car to be a trailer car eaither or I would just weld up some bar in place of the springs.

I know some people here use big zip ties in the front, and then rubber blocks in the rear. If you check the Drag racing section you may find a little more information.

Where do you run your car when you race? I would like to see it run.

I run the car at bristol. www.fullthrottleforums.com is where all the info is posted if I go or not.

I have heard of people using blocks but not zip ties. I need something really stiff or at least jack up the back about a foot with air shocks but I cant find any that will do the job.

What is the fastest maxima anyway?

Yeah they are big commercial zip ties. They are used to keep the front springs compressed, to stop the car from rocking backwards.

Martigrasmax has the fastest maxima. I forget what his fastest time is, but its mid to low 11's. I know he is gunning for 10's. He, Tilley, and Neil are in the 11's....there may be more but those are the three I can think of right now.

Pics, dynos, slips....

Not doubting just interested.

There are already 10 second bluebirds which are very similar to the first generation maxima but with 4 cylinders instead of the six.

I have a feeling that a rear drive maxima can make low 11s on a lot less hp than a front driver.

I am curious about a 10 second streetable front drive maxima and how one would drive it with wheelie bars.

I'd say you need new suspension components, Matt93SE has designed upgrades for the rear suspension of the 3rds which is simular to 2nd gens. Contact him and see what he can do for ya. Also I'd like to know what kind of turbo and engine management your using, that is alot of power. My question is how did you get 20in slicks to mount on your car, so far only MT makes a 20in slick and they fit 14in rims (I have a set on my se-r)? Also how were you able to run such a good ET on those small slicks, I'd think they would be way too small for a 3200lb car that can pull that kind of ET?

Heres a quick spec list of what is done to the maxima.

-1.5" lowering springs, suspension techniques
-addco rear sway bar
-VG 33 V6 motor {2001 Nissan SC froniter}
-Q54 throttle body
-Q45 Injectors
-Modified Z32 fuel rails
-Modified U11 upper intake plennium
-Corvette air pump for crankcase evacuation
-J30 twin cam maxima LSD 5 speed transmission
-Costom assembled axles
-3 bar GM MAP sensor
-walbro 255 ltr/hr fuel pump
-aromotive fuel pressure regulator with gauge
-Blitz Blow off vlave
-300ZX turbo with a high flow cone jim wolf filter
-schnieder stage 3 race cams
-port and polished heads
-Blitz boost controller
-Sport Comp Boost gauge
-Autometer Air/Fuel gauge
-2 gauge A piller pod
-Johnny Race Car frount mount innercooler
-custom crank pully
-Haltech fuel managenment system
-Act 6 puck unspring clutch with Extreme pressure plate
-2 extra motors
-4 drag radials
-2 slicks
-Bose stero outa of a 2001 or 2003 maxima
-tented windows
Probably more I just missed it.

Right now its a 300ZX turbo on it. I am gonna reroute the pipes on it and make it to a top mount turbo and sit the turbo over the tranny. Then I was gonna tear into to bottem end and replace rods and pistons. And do a little more head work and throw about 25psi of boost at it. It is tuned on Haltech. But I am thinking about leaning towards AEM. I ran a 13.3 @113 on worn *** drag radials. And the slicks are on a 14" rim.

The t-3 off of the 300zx turbo won't do much but heat the exhaust charge after 16psi.

Hump-free- I'm assuming you've seen maxmaxima91's buildup? That looks like the best manifold design Ive seen on a turbo FWD VG setup. GL on your buildup, sounds awesome. I my self have always wanted a 1st gen wagon built in every way...

~Alex

excellent sleeper you got there. I would love to see some video of runs at the track. Man I wish I had the time and money to do a setup like that.

Thats a long list of mods you've done. Impressive. You should upload your slips, some video's and some pic's of your setup.

So how'd you run the pipes for a FMIC? Whats your AFR at 12 psi with the T3? How'd you get Z32 fuel rails to work on the manifold setup, VG30E's use top feed, Z32 uses side feed injectors, from what i've seen the injector ports are different lengeths apart than on the SOHC VG's, than on the DOHC VG's. All of this is of great interest to me.

the 2ed gen uses top feeds, the 3rd gen max uses side feeds. Maybe he used the 3rd gen fuel rails?

~Alex

I didnt think the 3rd gen rails would fit on a 2nd gen IM... Side feed injectors would be nice, you can find them alot easier if you want higher than stock. One of the only upgraded top-feed injectors for the 2nd gen is the Mercades Benz Top feed 440-480CC injectors, thats good up to ~20-23 psi. I plan to locate a set for my Max.

Um not really, if you looked any were other then the org you'd see top feeds are VERY easy to find in lots of different sizes. I wish my VQ30 was top feed, its easier to find top feeds in junkyards. Usually anyway.

I also like top feeds better too, easier to work on and find or make fuel rails for.

~Alex

Well, you said you don't want the car to be a trailer car so I assume you want it streetable. If that's the case, you need some adjustable coilovers. I don't know if these are made for the older Maximas or not, so you may have to have them custom made. You can stiffen or soften the shocks with the turn of a **** and can also set the amount of preload you want on the spring.

Perhaps more importantly, you can adjust the rear to be higher or lower than the front (but the fronts are also height adjustable). For a FWD car, jacking up the rear can help a lot in drag racing.

If you're worried about weight transfer, put a wheelie bar in the back. That'll help you stay put.