i have finally found and recieved a 200sx intake manifold from the xev6 its a lot smaller thanthe stock maxima or even the 300zx manifolds using this i think it looks more jdmish in my opinion what do yall think?






also tinted the led tails that i have created

 

thats way cool. What year is your sx ? S11 ?

 

that is one sick B#$%#!

 

Is it running right yet? Is your car even licensed yet?

S

 

its running fine gotta get a new thermostat and tighten the oil cooler bolts then im good to go

ill get it insuerd and registered then ill be out and about by next week


by the way was looking around and found these tried them on the car and amazingly they fit perfectly check it out...








stock maxima rotors and z32 calipers no mods necessary complete swap over

 

You won't see much of a performance different just going with 4 piston calipers. You need to increase the rotor diameter to give the caliper more leverage, as well as a larger surface area to disperse the heat better.

S

 

yeah im gonna get some cross drilled as soon as i find the rest of the caliper hardware

 

Blah cross drilled are crap. They crack way to easy. Slotted or big blanks are the only way to go.

But is your car a manual? What turbo are you using and what kind of power bad do you have? I might be turboing my VG soon, I'm probably going to use a T3...

~Alex

 

did a 300zx turbo swap so whatever came stock on those

 

the older ones came with aT3 the newer ones came with a T25. what year is it from?

~Alex

 

86


10 chars

 

It's a T3.

You need 13" blanks for the front.

S

 

Hell yea, thats a wicked setup.

 

Thats awesome! I bet it was a pain trying to locate one of those manifolds.

My buddy just got some of those brakes for his 240SX, they are massive! My infiniti has the same brakes on it, it stops really well.

Hows the car runnin now? Take care of the ECU problems?

I just got an 87.5 300ZX ECU and did some rewiring, and mapping of the fuel maps, it should all work good, I sent off my turbo to get rebuilt and upgraded, should run a stable 12 PSI, the most to run at 9:1.

 

Did you have problems with the Throttle cable ?

I had to get one from a 300zx , When i did that like 2 years ago when i went to turbo.

 

the car is runing fine

it took me 2 months to relocate one at the local wrecking yards and now that i have one theyre all over the place so if someone wants one ill ship it to you for 100 bux

as for the throttle cable the ones that i have work fine you might of hade to change it because of the 300zx intake manifold also i got a pic of the dash with a lebaron boost guage installed looks stock kinda (exactly what i was looking for)





just need to replace my alternator then im good to go

 

Speaking of the alternator... I know you removed your A/C, but what did you do with the pulley that's on the A/C pump that has a belt over to the alternator? What I was thinking of doing, was locating a longer belt for the waterpump, and running it over to the alternator. The belt is the same width for both, and there is nothing to interfere.

Such a beautiful interior... I've forgoten how they look without cracked dashes and missing parts... But im glad I found a dash at the junkyard, and a set of practicaly brand new seats. I like the boost gauge, it looks MUCH more stock than mine. Nice manual looking automatic shifter. I think when I get my turbo done, it's time for the 5-speed swap.

Is that an Adjustable suspension switch I see? I did'nt know the max's came with that, my Z has it, although almost every Z31 i see has that.

I don't think I would use that intake manifold on my car, Im good with the stock manifold, but when im ready to drop a VG into my S12, I might be in the market for one.

 

yep the se's came with that suspension switch i wish i had it in my 85



as for the belt

what i did was just find a belt that wrapped around all of the acessories without the A/C took me a few times but it worked good thing the guy at the auto shop was cool i came back like 5 times

 

I will have to try that, I have 2 friends at Advanced Auto, they let me in their parts behind the counter, so i can look. Im gunna measure first, then take my measurements to the store and look for the right belt.

 

while that is certainly true, the z32 calipers do provide better braking feel and bite because of the more even application of pressure. I've had both 6th gen calipers (1-piston) and the z32 calipers setup on the exact same rotor and the difference is easily noticeable.

the one other thing to think about is whether your wheels will clear the z32 calipers, as they require a lower offset (all of my wheels are at least 8" wide and 30-35mm offset and just barely clear the inside of the spokes. Lucky you though, not having to buy adaptor brackets like we do

If you want to really improve performance in another way, find some 2-pc rotors. alu hat will not only disperse heat better, but will also improve handling/ride/acceleration due to lower rotational mass. Not cheap, but well worth it in my book.

by the way, after 15,000 freakin posts on here this is my first one ever in the 1st/2nd gen forum. Actually just came in to say that the IM manifold setup is impressive. nicely done.

 

your knowledge is welcome here at any time irish, i didn't know about how low the offset had to be on the wheel to clear those calipers.

 

It also depends on the style of the wheel as well, of course. A wheel with no dish or lip and flush spokes might have more room. I think some guys have manged to get 40 offset wheels on with the z32 setup, but don't quote me on that.

Also, you can save a few mm by shaving the "nissan" extruded logo off the face of the calipers to get more clearance if needed.

For you guys, the best bet might actually be to use the stock z32 wheels with the setup. that way you'll know they clear! I only wish my big rotors would fit inside those nice little 16s...they'd look tiny on a 5th gen but would probably look pretty sweet on a 2nd gen

 

Only if we had 5 lugs... I wish the 5-lug conversion was easier on the maxima's.

There are also 2 different sizes of brakes on the Z32, 26mm and 30mm. The 26's have better clearance, and the 30's have less. This is what I have been told from the 240 community. Supposedly you can fit the 26's on the car with the stock 240 S13 wheeles.

 

ah yes, I forgot about the lug pattern, doh!

The 26mm...yes, they have (duh) 4mm more clearance. The 5th/6th gen guys use the 30mm because the 26mm aren't wide enough to fit the big 6th gen rotors - but in your case, if using the z32 rotors the 26mm calipers shouldn't be a problem. I saw some here on the org in the FS section recently, for cheap....

 

100 dollars ?

damn i got mine for 10 dollars at the local crazy rays...

 

well in cali everything i expensive to be kept up with the economy

itl be like 50 bones for the im and the same for the shipping


but anyays man do i got some stuff to show you guys at about 4000 rpm's i heard a rattling so i didnt kno where it was coming from asked my auto buddy he didnt kno either so i took it to the shop told the service attendant i had a noise

so i reved it up to bout 4000 just enough for him to hear the noise so then he said "lemme see" and f#%$in reved it past redline and threw a Flippin rod i looked a him and said "you broke it" then he asked me if i wanted to put a new motor in it, then i just said that" i just did" so he was like itl cost me 2000 dillars i was like "$hit no" then he was like "lemme see what th manager wants to do" remember that i drove the car to the shop and now i cant even drive it period,

so the manager comes out and is like "what happend" i said "your boy blew my engine up" and he said that the intercooler was for racing purposes and i told him it was from a sabb, he thought i fabbed the whole engine and i told him that it was a 300zx turbo motor with an intercooler, then he talks like i didnt know what i was doing and that the engine cant handle the pressure (rememer it is a stock motor(i think nissan knew what they were doing))

so i was like flip it then will you pay for a tow truck since he blew it up

he was like "NO...We dont even work on engines this old...since it wasnt in my shop and i didnt write up a receipt its not my problem" he wouldnt even pay for the truck



so after pondering the situation i didnt want to go into it legally because all of the missed days of work and laywerfees i might not even win so i was like ill fix it my self

so i tear the engine apart and the piston is seated licely at the op of the cylinder the rod was trashed (see pics)

no damage to the cylliner walls or the crank journals so ill just replace the piston and ill be back by monday

but if worse comes to worst ill just get a nother motor theyre like 200 bux no biggie


so because of the wack a$$ service technician im already in the hole 50 bux 250 at worse and turbo downtime

 

sucks to hear that your car got messed up by an idiot. At least it seems that it isn't a big thing to fix it.

edit: saw the pics, and HOLY JESUS THAT IS HORRIBLE. is that a hole in the oil pan??

 

painted the timing cover while it was out and the crankshaft pulleys

 

Damn!!! Thats messed up!! This is one reason I dont like other people working on my cars.

So you can get a good Z31 Turbo engine for cheap? There are none in the bone yards around me...


Ehhh.. with the right fuel supply a stock Z31 engine can take 18 psi or so, so what you were pushin turbo-wise wouldnt have hurt it... it's designed for a turbo!!! And the intercooler would have helped things, cause the stock Z's were designed to run intercooler-less.

The rattle could have been a loose rod. Just a guess. Some times If the rods aren't torqued to the crank at the right specs they can loosten up. I had a rod loosten up in my 01 VQ35 Pathfinder, and it threw a rod through the side of the upper oilpan(midplate), it started with a rattle and turned to a knock when the crank bearings went out... that was a $2000 fix.

Friggin mechanics don't believe someone else if they arent a mechanic themselves. I hate that, I've asked mechanics at nissan about stuff, and they told me "you dont know enough to understand", even though Im working on a 4-year degree in Automotive...

Good Luck on gettin it runnin again!

 

#1 your engine had a noise. revving it high is a bad idea.

#2 WTF WERE YOU DOING AT A SHOP??? Sounds like they don't know ****, should have gone to a performance shop. Or just asked here.

#3 stop piecing together engines. Get a whole low mileage VG30E from a 2ed or 3rd gen and don't touch it. Just bolt it in. 9:1 compression will give better power, maybe better spool, better mpg. You just have to run 91+ all the time and have a little better tune. Look at maxmaxima91....all that on a completely stock engine....

Good luck man, this is why I'm all DIY. Ive got lots of car guy friends so if I need to do any thing, I just ask them.

~Alex

 

I vote stock engine.. im pushing 16 psi into my 9:1 engine with no problems.. Just MAKE SURE your rich enough.. like High 10 or low 11s Air fuel ratio wise. If you run lean you will blow stuff up.... i say Again.. Put a bone stock engine that has never been touched in. heck, get one from a junk yard thats still got a warranty if you can. As long as your rich enough, you can put even more than 16 into a 9:1 engine. I am hoping for 18 this summer.

 

Sucks to hear what happened, but I think you messed up. Even if you didn't have time for legal action, I would have bluffed it. Most people don't want the hassle of dealing with court, so they'll settle to keep a person quiet.

 

i went to the shop to get a smog check and thought since i was there id see if he knew what it was and he killed it in the process


but i will need somwe advice on boostin this **** with stock internals

ima check those pages out tho

 

i have asked arround and herd these engines can handle up to about 450hp on the stock internal components.

judging from the obliterated parts umm... you might be making a little more than that. even if the douche bag did go past red line.

even if he hit redline and it instantly went...thats freaky.

7250rpm @ 160hp (or closest to stock hp) and it'll bouce off the limiter but nothing ever horrible happened other than the transmission didnt shift.

 

but he went redline with the rod ticking i later found out that one of the bolts werent tightened and thats why it went so i bought a better torque wrench...

and a 3rd gen bottom endlooks promising especally with the aluminum p/s bracket it shaves like 5 pounds off of the engine compared to the iron one

i would of used the alty bracket as well but it ofsets the alty making me have to utilize 2 belts instead of the one so i left the iron one in

and i would guess that i am making a lol more than stock what?...i dont kno but would like to gotta see when the cali guys are doin a nother dyno run or do one myself somewheres

 

He has a T3, hes not making more then 250WHP. Its not a problem with power its just assembly...

Niku- Look at maxmaxima91's setup, hes over 450WHP and running the stock engine with no problems at all. Hes properly tuned and thats what makes engines last.

Big e-dog, what are you using for tuning? You might want to look into a 3rdgen setup or a z31 turbo ecu and chipping either or your going to keep blowing motors. Or at best running rich and not making much power while getting bad MPG.

~Alex

 

im running the z31 turbo ecu its basically a motor swap with the ecu

 

do you have a wideband on your car? if not, get one. and in the worst case, up your fuel pressure to richen it in boost. Make sure your at least in the low 11s Air fuel ratio wise, Better safe than sorry. Best case would be to throw an emulator on the ecu and run liveedit to do some rough tuning.

 

You could easily use a Megasquirt System on a 2nd gen max. Probably less than $400, then you have a full stand alone ecu.

 

it is an option, but personally i would stick with the factory engine management, its really not that hard to tune and in the end it will probably run the car much nicer. are there are even better things coming out soon for the nissan ecu, like nistune..