man i miss mine

 

I had an 87 Maxima that the crankshaft pulley literally fell off and threw off the timing and miraculously the engine didnt get ruined

 

holy crap what did you have to fix? thats amazing that the engine wasnt totaled

but how would the crankshaft pulley throw off the timing belt? i was told if your crankshaft pulley breaks, all belts BUT the timing belt throw off

 

Mine junked back in 2000

 

whats the bodykit made of? i was going to drop the bucks on a new Stillen kit, but i threw a rubber strip on my front as a test lip and it scraped because im so low, i need something cheap so when it breaks its no biggie lol

 

I was told It could throw off timing as it runs on that same pulley also. My uncle R.i.p replaced the pulley and all the belts and the car started right up I was impressed as I was ready to junk it. The car lasted me another 3 years it needed oil seals as it leaked like a **** and was starting to give me trouble starting up in the cold. I found out later through car fax the car was totaled and had about 260,000 miles the last time it was inspected. My odo said about 145,000 Means it had over 300k when it died. I still recommend Nissan VG V6 cars as they are very durable.

 

From original owner; runs like a dream everthing works but lots-a rust. I'm luvin' it; I just picked up a door for it... has anyone ever replace the doors on these b4? Is it a matter of just leaving the hinges on & bolt right up? I'm having a hellava time lining up the bolt holes. NEED HELP!!! NEED HELP!!!

 

It's definitely a 2 man job.

 

big _dog, i've got a 1988 nissan maxima gxe sedan, i'm trying to find a trunk lip spoiler for it(the type that comes standard on the se model) if you have that type and you're still willing to sell it preferably the black, but i'll take either one as long as it's the type i'm looking for i'd like to get it brother, please email me at jetdogcraven@yahoo.com and let me know, thanks in advance brother, gerald (g)

 

If that doesn't work,check with Toyotasalvage.com in Phoenix.They also carry vintage Nissan parts and have stock that dates from the mid 60s.

 

i still have mines...im actually selling it as we speak. its a 1987 maxima 5spd color white in mint condition both exterior and interior.has the kaminai body kit on it. a must see!! the reason i am selling it is because i dont have any other plans with it. e-mail me if interseted

 

or send me a private mssg

 

 

im new to the site idk how to post pics up but if anybody wants pics i'll send them via my fone to ur phone just give me ur number

 

I'm sure somebody knows how to load pics..

 

HEllo everyone,
I need to find a source for the "fuel temperature sensor".
The one that mounts in the "fuel pressure regulator"

The manual states that it should'nt be replaced by itself, but with the fuel pressure regulator.
However, I have a feeling that 99% of the pressure regulators on the market, will come without the "temp sensor".

It's a small sensor with only a single connection on it. And over time, that connection becomes very fragile.

I live in California, and NEED to pass the Emission test. The connector broke off, so that may be one of the reasons that it's not currently passing the test.


Hopefully someone out there has already had the same problem, and had some luck finding a compatible replacement.


Thanks to anyone that can help.
JAmes- northern

 

Can you solder it?

 

On my 86se that connector on the fuel temp sensor also broke off from corrosion. After checking that it was still good with my multimeter I filed away the insulator around the brass spade till there was enough material to solder a wire onto it. That was the fix for me.

So what was the test results on your failed smog test. What did you do before taking it in for the test?

My 86se failed Ca smog last year too. I'll post what was done to get it to pass later when I find my test results.

Al

 

I did a similar fix as alllw86, but I cut of the tab from a spade connector and soldered in on the temp sensor. You won't find the temp sensor available aftermarket or OEM. I did find one Z car site (I don't recall which one) that offered them, but they were close in price to the complete OEM fuel pressure reg and they didn't give the exact specs to compare to the Max. Otherwise,you need to buy the whole OEM FPR assy with the sensor from Nissan.

 

best car ever

 

needs moar low lol

 

i already bottom out the foglights it currently has if im not careful with driveways

 

I have the 1987 SE, had it a little over a year'

New lft. axle
Gatorback timing belt @ 146,500
New timing belt pully
New water-pump
New master cylinder
Replaced brake lines due to rust
New frt. rotors
New frt. calipers
New performance cemetric pads all around
New alternator
Removed cat ran straight pipe

Sorry not for sale

 

Our numbers are dwindling,so we need to be more active.

 

I just bought this lovely 88 Maxima SE a couple months ago. Was looking for a replacement for my busted 84 300zx winter beater, and came across it on Craigslist. 194000km, 1 owner, garage kept, rust free, all original. It had a horrible misfire, needed brakes, tires, and a left lower balljoint. I snagged it for $800, and drove it back to my shop. Have repaired all the problems with OEM ignition tuneup, 2 new injector pigtails, new balljoints, and a fresh set of General's. Motul oil service, brake fluid flush, and brakes at all 4 corners rounded out the work. Oh, and a new exhaust mid pipe and gaskets. Been enjoying it ever since. I've got an 87 300ZX as well, but it sits through the rainy winters while I drive the Maxima.

 

Suh-weet! Welcome to the to the group.

 

Thanks for the welcome. I really like the car, even though I have to explain to everyone that it's NOT a 1991 Sentra.

I'm torn between keeping it long term, deleting the worn out adjustable suspension, possibly swapping in a 5 speed, and bolting on a set of 5Zigen wheels I have kicking around, versus selling it to someone who would really love it for the long term, like I love my Z31.

This car is 100% rust free. Not a speck of it anywhere. The undercarriage still shows perfect floors, rockers, frame rails, etc. Hell, it even still has the original paint underneath. It shows like a 5 year old car. I removed the mudflaps, and fender liners, spent hours on a hoist, cleaning the years of muck and dirt of there, then spraying Wurth cavity protection spray into all the little nooks and crannies.

 

If you plan on keeping it the first thing you wanna do is the timing belt, hell may as well do the water pump, pully & thermostat while your at it. I put a Gatorback on mine, that way I know I'm good for another 5 years. She has rust but she runs like a bat outta hell & everything working ice cold A/C, etc.

My back-up vehicle is my Honda Shadow 1100.

 

I plan on dropping some dough on her over the next 2-3 months:

KILL UNDERCARRIAGE RUST!!!!
New rack
KYB GR-2's
ST Springs
Addco Rear anti-sway bar
Rear vented/slotted rotors
Audi Brilliant Black paint job
18 Black Drag DR-36 Wheels
215/35/18 Tires
Black carpet
Black & orange door panels
orange interior

 

Timing belt is sitting on my toolbox at work, ready to go in, any day. As is a waterpump, thermostat, CHTS/harness, tensioner, and stud. I don't **** around with cars, I'm a 20 year journeyman auto mechanic, and I keep my cars as new. I've got 3 other VG30 powered cars, too, so I'm up to speed on keeping them running right. Other ones are 84 300ZX turbo(being parted out right now), 87 300ZX(my mother bought it brand new), and that lovely blue Quest in the pic above.

I've also got a 2 wheeled Honda, which sees more mileage per year than all my cars combined. My 2001 RC51.

 

Nice, stick around maan; some of us including myself could certainly learn a thing or two from you.... not too many of us 2nd gens around anymore.

CHIEF SHADOWFOOT

 

That's a gorgeous car,glad to see somebody get itwho appreciates it as much as the first owner!

 

About to order strut, shocks & mounts; are the boots really necessary?

 

Boots and bump stops should be replaced, for sure. What struts are you ordering, KYB?

 

Yeah, KYB GR2's; I ran them on 2 previous VW; they're okay but I did see these coilovers on ebay:

Yellow Racing Coilovers

Can't justify the cost though

 

Replacing the front strut mounts with KYB #SM5065 rear KYB #SM5099 Rear Strut Mount and the front upper spring seats, thrust seats,and strut tower covers with Nissan P/N’s: 54040-05E00, 54043-01 E00, and 54380-05E00. Two each of these 5 P/N’s are required. Struts & Shocks: 235019 Right Front, 235020 Left Front, and 365080 Rear. + front, rear Boots.

 

Replacing the front strut mounts with KYB #SM5065 rear KYB #SM5099 Rear Strut Mount. Two each of these 5 P/N’s are required. Struts & Shocks: 235019 Right Front, 235020 Left Front, and 365080 Rear. + front, rear Boots.
$353.07 w/facebook coupon from http://www.justsuspension.com

Front upper spring seats, thrust seats,and strut tower covers with Nissan P/N’s: 54040-05E00, 54043-01 E00, and 54380-05E00.

 

That should ride really nice. The electric suspension in my SE is just sacked. If I had long term plans for the car, I wouldn't hesitate to replace it all. Just can't justify it at this point. Maybe if I keep it.

 

Keep the car long term,you'll be glad you did.

 

One of my friend has an 87 Maxima 5 spd preserved away in his garage and it's clean....He messed with the timing belt and bent up his valves, and needs a head job now...I wanna fit a 3rd gen exhaust on it to see how it fits, then i know Pacesetter headers will fit as well.....