LastTraintoMEM

I decided to start a new thread so I didn't get lost in an old one, and it's not like things are on fire here at 1st and 2nd gen...LOL! Guys on here have helped me and I have helped others with my trials and tribulations. Hopefully it continues!!!

The problem has been like this for the last couple of months: It starts runs fine for days, then just wont start. Doesn't matter if it's hot or cold. Use to I would keep fiddling with it and it would eventually start (not sure what I did), but here lately she just wont start for days, and it has become more frequent. I swapped coils, and ignition modules and still no start. I decided to pull the brain and check codes. I got a 2 and 2 and a 4 and 1. The 4 and 1 just pointed me to something I forgot to "delete" during it's purge of "uneccessaries" a year or so ago, and that is no longer an issue...LOL! The 2 and 2 (fuel pump circuit) got me running down what I am beginning to think is the wrong rabbit hole. After ripping out the rear seats and not seeing or hearing any revelations, I was bored and decided to check spark on my good coil during a "no start" situation. Sure enough, no spark!! Later she cranked, and sure enough spark. So now I am perplexed and think it has something to do with where the coil gets it's power? But why would the brain flash 2 and 2??? I have a Haynes manual which has no detailed schematics of the electrics. Do one of the 5 wires come off the fuel pump have something to do with the coil? Could it be the ignition switch? Would the CPS have any effect? I replace it about a year ago, the way I see it is it is down stream from the coil and nothing goes back??

and while I am at it; I just discoverd in the Haynes there is an AT module under the drivers seat??? Any of you experts no what this does? Been having a come and go trans problem since I've had it where it feels like it goes it and out of overdrive while climbing hills. Be nice to know it was just a module

LastTraintoMEM

Well, I am answering some of my own questions and having more....

I went out this morning and she started right up. Ran great. Turned it off, then, no start. I removed the battery and started tracing wires around. Unplugging connectors and spraying PB Blaster thinking something was shorting. Still nothing.

The way I see it the battery runs power to the starter and the ECU. The ECU then sends it to the ignition solenoid and coil, so I am wondering if I have a bad ECU and it is throwing the 2 and 2 code to fool me into thinking it okay?? Evil computers!! Would the ECU prevent spark to the coil if the fuel pump was having problems? I just didn't think car computers were that smart in 87??? I could see a modern Maxima doing this, but not a nearly 30 year old car? A new fuel pump is close to $200. Big gamble if thats not the problem. I would rather it be the ECU then drop in an 87 300zx AT computer!!!

LastTraintoMEM

I wonder how many Maxima's met an untimely death with a crusher because of a little, silver box under the trunk deck called "anti-theft"?!?!!?? Yes, I think that was the problem?!?!?! That's the reason the ECU flashed fuel pump relay and the coil wasn't firing.....they had been disengaged by the anti- theft??? You probably wonder why I didn't look there earlier. Well, when I first got the car it was running down the battery every couple of days. I couldn't figure out where the draw was and went through a couple of batteries and installed a battery disconnect as a work around. One day I was in the trunk for something and my arm hit the box for the keyless entry and it was really hot. Gears got turning, and I unplugged the thing.....problem solved! The Haynes Manual shows that the anti-theft keyless entry are the same box!!!! I thought my antitheft was disabled!!! Apparently not. I was back in the trunk today looking at the fuel relay and saw another box with "theft" on it. I unplugged it and it starts every time so far. Time will see if this was it. My advice to owners of old Max's; unplug and bypass anything that isn't essential to the car running. Disconnect all the frills and simplify. It is a shame wondering how many folks towed cars to junkyards for something this minor!! Hope this helps someone and save another Maxima somewhere!

LastTraintoMEM

Well, by God! I am back!!! Geeezzz, I wrote the previous to early and jinxed myself... After running around and making about 5 stops, I pull into my driveway behind my 2 good operating vehicles and.....you guessed it....no start!!!! Nothing screams "redneck" to your neighbors more than pushing an old Nissan out of the driveway so the wife can get some groceries!! Man, I thought the anti theft thing was it. I am still glad I disconnected from it because it would have come back to haunt me one day. So I replace the fuel relay with one I pre paid for at O'Rielys (one of my stops), No joy there. I guess my next step is ECU. I read a while back that a 300zx non turbo was a good upgrade ECU for the Max. Anyone have any insight as to what years are best or a good supplier? I know this section doesn't get a lot of activity, but man it feels like I am talking to myself here. Good therapy for dealing with old Japanese techno cars

vernk

be sure to check all your wiring, and CPS

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

Did you check the harness connection to the battery. That can cause that issue. Put your ignition to acc and you should be able to hear the fuel pump priming for a couple seconds if your not hearing it prime then you would know if your fuel pump is the culprit. Does it sound like it wants to crank over on the times where it doesnt want to start or is it just dead?

LastTraintoMEM

Hey, there is life on this board?!?!

Thanks for the input. The CPS is only about a year old> i did take the distributor apart and inspected it and blew it out even though it was clean. I don't think that's it. The problem is before the coil if it is electronic.

The car just turns over. No hint of trying to ignite when it is in this "no start" mode. I hear the fuel pump whine when key is turned on. I just don't think it's the fuel pump either. I just starter her up and she ran beautifully, but I might go back out now and nothing. I bought a used 1987 300zx ECU off ebay and it should be here Monday. I really hope that was the problem......little bonus with the extra performance of the ZX ECU would be nice

ac max 92

iTrader: (13)

Sounds like a pretty weird problem. Does sound electrical though. Are you sure the battery terminals and battery connections are good? Especially seeing that when you get your dead start there is nothing at all.

vernk

does it flood out while your trying to start it? have you called nissan to see if it's had the recall done?

LastTraintoMEM

It turns over, just no fire.

What recall? It doesn't flood.

vernk

there was a recall for late 86-87 (irrc) for injectors and and wiring. is it missing fuel or spark?

LastTraintoMEM

Would they still honor a recall on a almost 30 year old car???!!!??? I am not sure if it was done or not. How could you tell?

That's my problem, it has spark 80 percent of the time, then 20 percent it doesn't. It's not the coil or solenoid, so only thing left is the ECU. I should get my 300zx replacement ECU in a couple of days and will give an update.

vernk

not sure if they are still honoring it but you can call Nissan and give them the vin and they should be able to tell you if it has been done or should be done...... be sure to go though the wiring keep a eye out for spots like on the back valve cover where the wires can rub.... other then that clean connectors, make sure grounds are in decent shape, almost sounds like you have a broken wire somewhere, i think if it was the ECU it would work all the time or not at all, be sure to check the CPS and wiring for it.

LastTraintoMEM

Yea, that's what I thought. A short or grounding problem. I have gone through a lot of the connectors and shot them with PB Blaster. If the new ECU doesn't do the trick then I guess I go through the whole engine bay. Going backwards from the coil though, there isn't much upstream. Ignition module, ECU, battery.....

LastTraintoMEM

I was driving the Max when boom, it fell flat on it's face. First time this had happened, but has to be related. I pulled over safely and fiddled under the hood with no luck on a restart. I disconnected the battery for about 10 minutes and reconnected, and whamo! She restarts and runs fine all the way home!!!! I did hear a click under the dash right when it died, so that got my attention away from the engine back and under the dash. After looking at the manual, I forgot there was a ignition relay at the fuse box. I swapped it with the accessory relay (their both green) and we will see what happens. It's getting old having to worry whether or not I am going to make it to my destination or get stranded in a parking lot....geeeezzzz!!!

LastTraintoMEM

Well, I drove it around today fine. I got back to my driveway and left it running as I moved somethings around, and it died and wouldn't restart! I started trouble shooting again and re read the Haynes manual ignition section. I am now thinking it might be the CPS again. One little section says that the CPS sends info to the ECU then the ECU sends that to the coil and back to the CPS. I have a life time warranty on the CPS I bought last year, so why not eliminate another possibility.

LastTraintoMEM

Well, the new Cam Position Sensor is in, and so far so good.

LastTraintoMEM

Well, I guess it was the CPS, again! The replacement is from O'Rileys and manufactured by Import Direct. I have been driving around and no problems so far. The old CPS was only a year and a half old. For a part that cost this much, it should last a lot longer than this!!! Luckily I had the lifetime warranty.

Passing on new knowledge:

The 300zx ECU works! The Max feels like it has more zip!


I hooked the fuel temp sensor back up. I was getting a low rpm hesitation and it seems to have gone away with it back.

Hope this help someone else out and keep another Max alive.....No news is good news ;-)

seabob4

I think I have been very lucky so far. The little girl starts right up first time, every time...


Jeez, hope I didn't jinx myself...

LastTraintoMEM

The original CPS is probably a quality product. The news ones are Made in China junk! One more bit of info; you can change the CPS without removing the distributor. The Haynes manual is very vague on the procedure.