Well there were supposed to be a bunch of us max's going, but they are a bunch of scardy pants. There was a Mustang vs/ somthing event but there was more than enough time to do a bunch of runs. I was at www.limotorsportspark.com I only stayed for three runs b/c I had no other changes to make, I could have gotten in 10 runs if I felt like it. I dont have the time slips in front of me but I remmember the 1/4 times and reaction times.

Mods:
transgo shift kit, tranny cooler, syn ATF.
170 thermostate
Homemade CAI
indexed spark plugs.
timming advanced 4 degrees

Frist run:
1/4 mile 16.1
RT 0.022 (unbelievable I know, but I will upload the time sheet tomorrow)
I lowered the tire pressure 2psi

Second run:
This run I did bad b/c I tried an ignition module from a 94se
1/4 mile 16.3
RT -3.03 (I red lighted b/c I was power braking and I didnt have my foot on the brake enough).

Third run:
Lowered the tire press. another 2psi
AND brought the timming back to STOCK
1/4 mile 16.1
RT 3.??

I was able to adjust the timming b/c I had marked the stock and +4degree on the crank shaft positioning sensor with a scribbing tool.

So I not too dissopointed with my times b/c last november I was running 16.3 at a different track. And also the temperature may be a slight factor b/c back in november it was cooler and last sunday at the track it was in the mid 80's

Also this past sunday I was using an ECU out of a 94se, I found out that the car was CA emissions so the check engine light was on all the time. I checked the codes and it came up with EGR temperature sensor (which us federal emission cars dont have), MAFS (but I know mine is good), and knock sensor (which I just did work on). These codes came up b/c of the strickter emission standards out there in Cali . but since the MAFS came up I plan to clean the connectors on it and remove the dielectric grease that I put on them (I dont think its that great of an idea any more using the grease on low voltage components, only if its making a very strong contact)

Today I reinstalled my ECU b/c I needed to fix a component in it, so I used the 94se ecu for parts

At the track other than there being 2 dozen domestic muscle cars, there was a 2k2 max running 15 flat in the 1/4 mile
there was a WRX running low 12's, he had an upgraded turbo, super light rims (14 or 17 pounds I forgot wich it was) and plenty of other mods.
there was a civic, but he didnt stay long


O yeah and I plan to leave my timming stock b/c the car runs just as good and also b/c my knock sensor has been cleaned and is functioning properly.

 

Very interesting. I happen to have a ca spec car I wonder if I would see gains if I used a fed spec auto or 5-sp ve ecu??

Nice info and nice run eric. What was wrong w/ the other ecu?

 

Also the fact that I am 2 tenths faster in the warmer weather has only to do with the fact that I did a lot of maintance.

Knock sensor
replaced the last three ignition coils
pulled all the fuel injectors, cleaned them and installed ALL new seals and pintle caps



I have not yet installed the proto type underdrive pulley from UR b/c there shop is very busy and they cannot fit me in. So I spoke to the guy and told him that I could install it and he agreed. I feel a heck of a lot better installing it myself b/c the guy did such a bad job tightening the pullies, and I think he over torqued the main pulley bolt as well. I just ordered an impact wrench and expect it to arrive this week. I got an ingersoll rand 'thunder gun' its got a max reverse torque of 650 . I had a cheap impact wrech from sears that I returened b/c it could not remove the drive shaft bolt. I will be replacing both boots on the drivers side. Also since they waited so long at UR, I need to do base line dyno runs again, so this time I will have them do second gear as well as third. So second gear can show the FULL rpm range, and we can see what kind of gains the new UDP from UR can do at low rpm ranges.

 

I fried a transistor pack in it, energizing a relay, ummm ya live and ya learn I really didnt wanna talk about it b/c I was embarresed to admit it. I was lucky and got the computer and ignition pack at a good price from an org member.

The 5spd and auto ecus are not compatable (I thought u knew that jeff). But It would be interesting to try a federal emission ecu in your cali spec.

 

but I had two cars to detail(actually Vans) so I was to busy, plus when I go I want to take everything out, Ive got to much A/V crap in it. I think my Hu weighs about 10-12 lbs.

 

Doh. yeah no vtc signal on the auto versions. Hmmm...

 

you mean power valve?

 

 

You should have deleted your post to cover your tracks

 

good times there...random q...what is the transgo shift kit??? also, on your spark plugs, r those copper or plat? i always here endless stuff on which is the actual better conductor...good stuff
is there a way 2 tell if our car is ca emissions? i know there is a way on 4th gens, but what about us?

 

Eric,

What was your engine temp needle registering at when you staged at the lights? When I ran my best, I had the needle in between midway and the "C". So, my engine was pretty cool. When I ran my worst (7-8 tenths worse than my best), i had my needle at exactly midway for more than 20 minutes. Let me know what your engine temp was. I'm still trying to figure out my severe loss of power problem. Thanks.

 

My temp needle always stays dead in the middle. It was a hot day at the track and my engine warms up very fast, so there way like no way to let the engine cool down enough.

Now that I have the origninal computer in the car, I wanna run the car again.

Currently I'm using bosch plat +2 plugs, I didnt want the +4's b/c I wanted to be able to index the spark plugs. with +4's thats impossible. For those of you who do not know, indexing the plugs is proven to give 1-2% increase in HP, so for our ve its something like 3-4 hp just by positioning the plug so that the cathodes are on the sides (b/c i'm using +2's). Copper plugs are better for performance, platinum plugs are for convience. Copper plugs need to be replaced more often, but they fire a spark with greater current.

The transgo shift kit (you should have searched ) well first and second grab real fast (third and fourth are also affected), people say its more for extending the life of the tranny, but there is also some performance gains.

Wow 7-8 tenths of a second difference just b/c the engine was that much cooler . I think I'll make a setup to run the low speed fan relay again (this time I'll do it right).

To tell if the car is CA emmssions or not is probably in the VIN number, you could look in the cars user manuel.

 

No, my car is 7-8 tenths slower when warm. Not 7-8 tenths faster when cool. LOL... ok that made no sense. There is obviously something wrong with my car. I just have to find out what. This weekend, my mechanic friend said he'll be able to bring home the Consult device and hopefully this will give me some ideas on what is wrong.

Man, I wish my car ran 15.40's when warm. That would make it so much fun to drive on the street. But, when I'm driving around town, I'm probably only able to run about a 16.20. Well, later!

 

is there any way to index with regular NGK plats? or do you need the +2s?
also, how did you wire in the fan relay? i did something like this by pulling off my a/c belt, then using the a/c button to turn the fans on..but then it got hot so the belt went back on..
if i had to stop at a light, i'd turn the fans on,by the time the light was green, my car felt very refreshed so fans definatly help with VE heat stroke.

 

do a search on the web on indexing spark plugs, there are plenty of sights that will explain how to do it. You will need to buy a kit that has different thickness washers that are ment for the spark plug. The different thicknesses will allow you to 'dial in' the correct position of the spark plug, when using a single cathode spark plug you would position the spark plug so that the cathode is on the bottom. Ideally you would use brand new spark plugs when indexing them, this will also help when installing them and 'dialing them in' more effectively. So if you have the expensive NGK'S for our car, then I would say just leave them alone.

I spoke about wiring a switch in another current thread about cooling a VE. It must be done properly otherwise you can ruin the ecu.

Since everyone is saying that it makes such a big difference with running a cooler engine, I want to hit the track again with my original ecu and with the fan switch wired in.