maxitech

iTrader: (7)

I had the same error in my auto tranny before I swapped it..Long story short, I have a brand new never used line pressure solenoid circuit pack. Let me know if your would be interested.

dyme

excellent post - will save this one, as i have to 'flick' the shifter from N to D to ensure that the tranny engages properly. thinking torque converter is on its way south, but may find differently after trying this.

thanks,

Michael

iTrader: (21)

if you have to "flick" it to get it to go into gear then your shifter bushings are probably worn out. I have had to replace them on every auto 3rd gen I have owned. If you take the cat heat shield off you can see the shifter linkage. There is a rubber bushing that gets worn out (and is sometimes missing). Its not expensive to buy at the dealer (couple bucks at most). There is another bushing in the front where the cable meets the trans. but that one rarely goes out.

That should fix your gear selection problem.

CaRo

Can someone explain to me how to do the diagnosis of the AT? My max is year 93, with the VG30E engine. Automatic obviously.
In the Selector lever says "overdrive" but I never found that button! I can't do the diagnosis posted in page one.
A week ago I discovered a switch in the passenger side that you see if you lay in your passenger seat upside down, with your feet by the headrest and your head at the footrest. It says AT check or something like that. It's black with white letters. If you push it to check it comes back.
How do I test my tranny, with that?
The speedometer doesn't work since 2004, and I have a problem with the reverse when it's cold (takes some time to work and sometimes it doesn't).
I'm about to buy the speed sensor for $200 (the best price I could get in Argentina) and first I want to discard the tranny itself as a problem.
Please help I want to do this since I registered here and I don't know how! I've read all the threads I found concerning this matter I don't know what else to do.
Thanks!!!

crabapple

iTrader: (1)

Ok, since no one has answered this I will try.

I believe you have to have that Overdrive button. I have a 94 GXE and did this check about three weeks ago. The Overdrive button is on the left side of the shifter, just below the button that 'unlocks' the shifter so you can put it in gear.

As far as that "AT check" I'm not aware of what that is.

Darkwing48

iTrader: (1)

1. Start engine and warm it up to normal engine operating temperature.
2. Turn ign switch to "OFF"
3. Set A/T mode switch to "AUTO"
4. Set O/D switch to "ON"
5. Move selector lever to "P" position
6. Turn ign switch "ON" (do not start engine)
7. Power indicator lamp should come on for about 2 seconds

What is the state of this car before the car the instructions are followed?
1. Tells me the car is off
3. Tells me the car is not on AUTO
4. Tells me the OD switch is Off
5. Tells me the car wasn't in park

And where is the Power Indicator lamp? I looked in my manual and it didn't say a thing.

I think

crabapple

iTrader: (1)

I asked this exact same question because you're right, it is nowhere in the manual. It should probably be called the "power/comfort" light. It is the light right next to the word "power" on the power/comfort switch.

If you do this in bright conditions you will need to shade it because the light itself is not very bright.

Darkwing48

iTrader: (1)

Thanks.
There's a light next to there???
Man I need to get to know my Maxima

CaRo

Thanks for answering! But I'm afraid I don't have that button..
This is a photo of my selector.

Gun5

kinda confused what todo on my 93 GXE (VG30E) i dont see a power thing on the dash

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

the switch is in front of the shifter, by the coin holder

Gun5

ah crap I thought that bulb was for when u had it flipped to power it wasnt woring so i took it out means i gotta take it out again and put a bulb in eh?? it never flashed before at all btw

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

it's for both.

Gun5

ah **** ok ill have to put a new bulb in once it stops raining and is alittle warmer then 20 degrees

mwj473

Does the 89 GXE also have one? If so, where? I'm having problems with the tranny changing from 2nd to 3rd and vice versa. 1st to 2nd & 3rd to O/D is good. I have to get the engine to around 3500 RPM's and let fully off of the gas to get it to shift to 3rd. Also, when slowing down for a turn to around 20-25 mph, the tranny stays in 3rd when I get back on the gas after the turn and bogs down a little. It doesn't seem to want to go back into 2nd. This problem seems to get a little better when the car fully warms up. Is this some sort of solenoid problem? I did the self diagnostic test and the Power light just flickers really fast until I turn the ign to Off. Any ideas?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

VG doesn't have an easily replaceable filter.

mwj473

Yeah, my Haynes manual says that it is not serviceable. That's why I asked. I would think that if it was clogged it would be affecting all gears vs just the 2nd-3rd shift. That's why I suggested the possibly the solenoid? I don't don't where the solenoids are located though.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

the solenoids can be bad. I'd suggest changing the fluid and see if that helps.

mwj473

I have already changed the fluid and it didn't help. The fluid that came out was dark and looked like it needed to be changed, but it has not helped this problem. I would have hoped that the self diagnoses would have lead me to the problem, but it doesn't. Are the solenoids located in the tranny itself? Also, how hard is it to get to the filter/screen for the tranny? Thanks for the help.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

the solenoids are in the trans itself.
not sure where on the re4fo2a though

austspecmax

from what i can remember from the FSM, the location of the filter from the re4fo2a transmission is located under the first set of valve/solenoid pack and you need to pull half of the transmission out to access the filter. It seems like a hell of a lot of work to do especially getting into the guts of the transmission. You will notice that the transmission has an upside down sump, it is actually on top not under like the engine sump and once you remove the air intake tubing and battery tray, you can access the cover. when you remove that there is a valve pack full of solenoids sittings under it. the filter is under that again so you are digging in about halfway into the transmission. I was going to change the filter on my max but once i took the cover off i thought there is no way that i am going to stuff around with the transmission especially when they are more complicated then the engines to pull apart.

mwj473

I once saw a thread that showed step by step the removal of a 3rg gen tranny. Does anyone remember this thread or can anyone provide a link? I've tried the search function and just can't seem to find the thread again. Thanks

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

does anyone else have this prob going into 2nd gear?

heres my routine,(rebuilt autotranny twice) once around 13100, and once around 168000 and i am at 196000

release e-brake (so i dont get a kick back in park)
shift into drive, and firmy press back twice to make sure its in drive
(if it dosent move from park i have to use the shift lock{at the base} to allow it to go into drive)
when at a low rpm shifting into 1st gear it feels like it bangs/knocks into 2nd (you can hear it)
now if i accelerate strongly from 1st gear into 2nd gear it feels 100x smoother honestly
the rest of the way up is pretty consistant considering its age
and when parking i allways use e-brake to avoid the knock back in park.
not that i am going to get it repaired just seeing if this wasnt just me with this 1st to 2nd situation.

crabapple

iTrader: (1)

Mine is starting to shift somewhat hard from 1st to 2nd - it's worse when it's cold. It also shifts smoother if I accelerate strongly

No knockback though, but my shifter bushing is worn out so I do have to pull the shifter down and then move it back up into Drive. My wife had to drive my car to school one night and she didn't get it all the way into Park so couldn't get it started. She had campus security out there and everything. I hadn't had that problem in awhile and completely forgot so went and bought a new battery. Drove over there, got in, saw the lights were working and it hit me. Just shoved the shifter hard into Park and started it up I have the shifter bushing in the garage just waiting for enough time between work and kids and everything else to put it in.

I'm coming up on 170000, original tranny.

sonicii

There is a large resistor (I think it's called a 'dropping' resistor) which is in the circuit path to the transmission line pressure solenoid, if the resistor is faulty or one of the connectors on it is bad your transmission line pressure will be maximum all the time and will cause very hard shifts at low throttle, although it should also cause hard 2-3 and 3-4 shifts..

The resistor is a large white rectangular object which is mounted on the left side of the engine, near the air filter box. I can't remember exactly where, but I think it is mounted on the strut tower. You can check this with a multimeter, it should measure about 10ohms from memory, also check the condition of the connector.

Might not be the cause of your problem, but worth checking!

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

i'm willing to bet that's your torque converter locking and unlocking. when it's unlocked it will spin slightly faster and when it locks, it's as solid as a 5spd's clutch. It should only lockup after you're warm, and it seems to me it may want to unlock up a hill. Just a thought.

CaptWilddog

hey guys my tranny will pull good in first but it will slip in 2nd but not in 3rd and will slip in o/d can anyone help on that also where is the at auto switch sorry guys havent found it need help bad thanks

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

you need a new trans.

max95q

iTrader: (10)

I was about to say Craig hasnt been on here in a whole minute, lol. I was surprised to see his name. What he said above though. Its on its way.

Darkwing48

iTrader: (1)

I did a TCU diagnostic, and all I got was more than 10 short blinking lights, that seems to go on forever. What does that mean?

mymaxima

Great info, Can someone please explain easily the resolution to each problem 1-10 (how to fix)

oc6

My 90 model needs shifter bushing based on what I have read here. Back out of driveway and put car in drive, goes no where. Wiggle shifter and it goes in to gear. I saw a part # on this, but can't find those post about this same problem. thanks

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

just call the dealer and have them order the bushing.

gerg

Much good info from you all guys. I hope I'm doing this correctly.

So my trans. codes have been run and it's #7 (torque converter/clutch circuit). What can I check on this circuit? I have no gears working, but no big bang, no loss of fluid, no strange mechanical noises. I have not cleaned connectors to TCU (or other places)

So, does #7 just mean it's dead? or can I check something else before shopping for a trans?

Ghostrider86

I have read all thru this and it seems i might have different issues than what i read.
First thing is when i try the diagnostic the Power light does not blink twice.....
Now when i select the power position with the switch i still dont' get the light. So i will assume the light is out until you tell me different?

Maybe you smart guys have dealt with my issue. Let me give you a description to think on while i get a bulb.
the transmission when warm and operating correctly does perfect......
But from time to time on a big bump (think bridge transistion) it downshifts from OD and has trouble staying solid in OD on hills. When its working right, it stays in gear solid. (you never know when its going to happen)
Additionally when i crank it up in the morning and i put it in drive its like the lock up is engaged already. The engine stalls unless i left foot brake with my foot on the throttle. but when it warms up the problem either goes away or lessens greatly.

Other symptoms of my issue seem to be the Tach......when everything is working in order the tach does what its supposed to do, but then when things aren't working right the tach jumps around wildly. This even happens when i am sitting still with the key in the on position. If i turn the key off and turn it back on, sometimes it doesn't do it.

so it seems i might have some intermitten electrical issues. Any suggestions?