When i get off the gas and the car starts slowing down, sometimes the revs start jumping up and down between 1500 and 2000rpm. the car doesn't surge, and it doesn't do anything strange when accelerating.
Is this the maf sensor or something else? I did a search, but can't find anyone who's had the same complaint..

any ideas?

 

How is the idle? Smooth or does it hunt and vary?

 

my idle is weird. if i'm at a stop and then i take my foot off the brake and put it on the gas, the idle drops from a steady 600 to about 200 then it take off. any ideas on what it could be. replaced fuel filter, air filter, and cleaned TB. thanks in advance.

 

I had the same type of problem. try checking your fuel injectors with a voa meter. it should read about 11-13 ohms of resistance.

 

Exactly why I asked about idle..bad injectors will cause rpm hunting off throttle (when slowing down and at idle) as well as a miss at steady throttle positions..I bet if you try to hold 2500 rpm with the car in park or neutral you get a bouncing tach needle. Probably worse on cold mornings and better on hot days. My max has the same issue going on. Runs best at operating temp on cool evenings..I love it. Runs ****ty when it's 100 degrees out..gotta get that 170 deg. thermostat, and when it's cold in the morning..idles all over the place. Test the resistance as stated by 92vemaxse. If they read ok, then they are probably clogged or close to it. Check the electrical terminals too..the little rubber boots on the plugs crack and allow excessive moisture in there..corrodes the terminals to a powdery green mess. If you manage to get a good read from the ohm meter, try cleaning the terminals the best you can with elec. contact cleaner and emery paper rolled up real small. Then slap on some dielectric grease and plug them back in. next to changing the injectors out and the harness this is the best option. Good luck

 

thanks guys, will try testing the resistance today. if the injectors are just getting clogged, will some injector cleaner in the fuel tank help? or would they need to be manually cleaned?

 

Well, when i started it up today from cold, it sounded like it was on 5 cylinders, and when i revved it, it was shaky. i held the revs at 2500, and they stayed there, but when i got off the gas, the revs died to about 400 and then recovered. I've put fuel injector cleaner in the gas, and was gonna check the resistance on the injectors, but it started raining and i've got no garage... So, anyway, it sounds like an injector problem, thanks for pointing me in the right direction!

 

My VE auto does the same on occasion. I never figured out what it was...

Aaron's car (VE auto) does it as well on occasion. So you're not alone.

 

I have cracked boots on my fuel injector leads and yes i have had the green powder mess you spoke of!!! What a pain!! Wanted to know I want to change those corroded leads with new ones but after checking around at various parts stores they all had the same plastic clamp that you secure onto the injector!!They were the wrong shape!! So i had to use the OEM ones and clean them with like a needle pick. Plus the little metal fastner has broken on some of the clasps not alowing a totally great connection. but the car runs and ideals fine other wise. My question is where can i get the approriate fuel injector leads and would I have to make some modifications on the plastic terminals? Not know it should be just a splice out/in operation but the connectors are not the same pattern?? Let me know??

 

Fuel injection cleaners...
i have been told that they dont work becasue its not a good concentrate of the cleaner entering the injectors them selves.

so what if..., you have a bottle of "lucas fuel cleaner"(said to be the best) and you took off your fuel filter and drained the gas from the 2 lines that hook up to the filter, you then filled them with as much lucas as you can then put the filter back on and started the car, would that have a better effect in cleaning the injectors? or would you blow your enigne up? due to over detination

 

hey all think i have found out what my problem is in regards to the idle!! I see that my air mass flow senor's wire harness is crakced and when i wiggle it the car cuts off, I think that i am driving that the harness may wiggle from either the engine or the wind passing over the engine from outside of the car? Need to know where can i get another harness for the air flow meter? just the connection portion so i can splice out the old one? Tried dealership they said to expensive and to many other harnesses would need to be changed? Junkyard? parts store? Let me knmow??

 

wow.. that doesn't sound good, i do alot of crazy little homemade fixs from my max, but i wouldn't even think about messin with your MAF sensor/ MA wires

 

Yeah, I remember ever since I got my UDP, this was much more noticable. And it doesn't seem like a problem. When I am sort of aggressive on the gas and then suddenly let off... the tach needle falls quickly and then bounces up and down about 200 rpm. It might be in my head, but I think I feel the car bouncing ever so slightly in sync with the tach needle.

I never thought it was an actual problem. It seems normal in my case. But if the car is surging or something, then there is a problem.

 

I never have had the problem before. I recently had some of my vaccum hoses changed along with my fuel injector hose. I seem to notice a slight hiss around the throttle body assembly? not sure though? any thoughts!!!

 

I traced some of my problems down to the MAF Harness also. I found a junkyard willing to clip the harness and about 6 inchs of wire off for 15 bucks. I was hoping to replace the connections but could not get them out of the connector apparently you need a special tool to get them out. I was worried about the splice generating more resistance and screwing up the proper voltage it sends out to the ECU cause its measured in tenths of a volt. I ended up sticking a screw driver in and tightening the connections then tape it up with electrical tape to act as a stain relief. Not pretty but it works temporarily. Who is it on this board that always jokes about Duck tape and coat hangers? HAHA

BTW the MAF also get its power from the white/redstrip wire on the positive battery post that goes down to a distribution block and onward to the maf. This was very corroded on mine and I replaced it by cutting off the factory connections and replacing with a stinger gold plated positive battery post $10(It had hex screw downs for the 2 additional 10 guages wires needed,and a hex screw for a 4 Guage ring ) I did this cause on a multimeter test I never had the correct voltages.