well my problems back no way as bad as it was. It did get a lot better or a lot less frequent. I am getting code 12 error's now which indicate the MAF. I replaced that last december luckily with a 12 month waranty the replacement is coming saturday. Anyone have any idea's how to replace the terminals in the harness side I would like to do that but can not get them out of the connector.

 

Your problem is most likely your o2 sensor.
To check it disconnect it from under you hood (left side -- looking in from the front). If the problem goes away, its your o2 sensor.
Time to replace it.
If this does not solve the problem - try the MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR.

 

In my 92 SE (VE) there's something that looks like oxygen sensor sticking out of exhaust manifold that can be seen from the top looking down between the engine and the firewall. Is this the oxygen sensor or something else? From the description here it seems that the O2 sensor can only be seen from the underside.

 

IF YOU LOOK UNDER THE CAR FROM THE PASSENGER SIDE YOU WILL SEE THE O2 SENSOR STICKING OUT OF THE MANIFOLD -- JUST BEFORE THE CAT.
ITS PROBABLY THE SAME THING THAT YOU SEE WHILE LOOKING DOWN FROM THE TOP.
THERE ARE WIRES RUNNING FROM IT. TRACE THE WIRES TO THE CONNECTOR UNDER THE HOOD BY THE BOTTOM OF THE FIREWALL ON THE PASSENGER SIDE.
DISCONNECT THE PLUG -- THIS IS VERY HARD TO DO.
WHEN DICONNECTED THE CAR WILL RUN RICH AND IF THE PROBLEM IS WITH THE O2 SENSOR THE SYMPTOMS WILL GO AWAY.
DRIVE WITH THE PLUG DISCONNECTED FOR A FEW DAYS -- IF THE SYMPTONS GO AWAY -- THEN REPLACE THE O2 SENSOR.
BUY THE O2 SENSOR AFTER MARKET --- BOSCH MAKES A GOOD ONE.
GOOD LUCK.

 

Interesting article about our ECCS:

http://www.btinternet.com/~d.brooks1/eccs.htm

 

You know what??? I had a very very similar problem,,, it would cut out on me,,, at certain rpms would idle funny and miss sometimes through acceleration,,, I had the injectors pumped at nissan, changed the plugs,pcv valve, plug wires, distributor cap and roty bug, all to no avail... when one day i was leaning against the running motor and accidentally leaned against the wiring harness and noticed a great improvement in the idle... which in turn led to a vast deep look in the all the wires to figure out which one I had touched... Come to find out it was an injector wire.. well actually all of them... the rubber boots around the plugs on the wiring harness that goes to each injector were rotted a little and allowed moisture to get into the plugs thus corroding the terminals... after unplugging all of them which is a task,, and doing a thourogh cleaning of the prongs and a little sealing for prevention... I plugged those suckers back in only to notice perfect idle no cutting out during accel... and more power than that thing has had since i bought it... Not sure if you have same prob... but hey its worth a looksee...

 

92' SE 5 Spd
I have had the same problem for at least a year. First, it would stall while taking off not specific to a gear. If I press the clutch in, I could rev it up. When I get off the clutch, it would still stall. This would last about 2-3 secs. Didn't cut-off at first, but it's enough to scare the hell out of you when you pull out in front of someone. Then it started cutting off, but everytime. It started from about once per month to once per week. No fault codes at all until this past weekend. Code 11 Crank Angle Sensor. I have changed the fuel pump and fuel filter. I have not changed the pressure regulator. I have changed the spark plugs (NGK Plats.) I have done the voltage check on the Crank Angle Sensor for the 120 deg and 1 deg signal. I have done the resistance check on the Power
Transistor seems that pin 5 on all the checks is about 200K ohms less than the other pins. I have ohmed the wires for the coils, power transistor, and the crank angle sensor. I have verified the timing is at 15 deg. The procedure very vague as far as the specs for timing with the throttle sensor & AAC valve plug in and with both unpluged.

The book says Code 11 is the Crank Angle Sensor circuit fault. Fault is due to 1 deg or 120 deg signal not entered for the first few seconds during engine cranking (not likely in my case, problem occurs while running), and 1 deg or 120 deg signal not input often enoufh while the engine speed is higher than the specific RPM. Does any one have any ideas before I replace the Crank Angle Sensor??

 

Have you checked your mass air flow sensor ???

mto 534

 

No I haven't. How do you check it?

 

I have documented the same problem with my 92 Max SE. The conventional wisdom at that time was to change the EGR valve or at least clean it. I cleaned it and it did not change. I changed the fuel filter, used 91 octane gas and threw in an injector cleaner to no avail. This problem has 2 symptoms; 1) I will be idling the car and the RPMs drop to near zero and bump back to normal intermittantly. Sometimes the car will stall from this drop. 2) I will be driving on the freeway and a 'hesitation' will occur where a flat spot seems to show up. Sometimes, at freeway speeds, I will have to push the clutch in and rev the engine to prevent it from stalling. These problems usually happen during the same 'drive time'. Some days it runs perfectly others it will pull the above 2 symptoms. My next step will be to disconnect the O2 sensor and see if that does anything. THen I will pull all the electrical connections and clean them. An interesting sidenote, my electric doorlocks have decided not to work at this point as well.

 

Holy sh*t, I almost forgot! I have been having this problem for months now, but for the first time this weekend, the 'Check Engine' light actually came on briefly during on of its hesistation episodes at freeway speeds. What would this indicate?

 

Ekote
Have you checked your ECU for a code?

 

Erm, no. Not even sure how to do that. Spose I have to pull out my Chilton's again...

 

The only way to check the mass air flow sensor is to replace it.
It is very expensive ( approx. $900.00 in Canada)

 

Your problem definitely sounds like the O2 sensor.

MTO 534

 

When your Maf is dead or intermittent it will always exhibit the same problem. When your engine climbs above 2500 RPM it will be like someone shut the key off and turned it back on when it dropped below 2500. This is the ECU going into limp home mode due to failure of a critical sensor. Most Mafs go intermittent, only happening ocsassionally in the beginning then almost constant If your lucky they finally store a code.

New MAF 366.00 From Courtesy
Rebuilt from autozone by Cardone 168.00 (12month/18K Warr)

"But That isn't your problem!" (Been there Done that)

After I cleaned every electrical connection with contact cleaner and wirebrushed all my grounds, replaced my MAF (Mine was bad) I graduated back to the problem you have. Best Bet Electrical contact cleaner for connections do em. And throttle body cleaner do the TB and the IAC valve.

Search there are 2 good procedures listed for the TB and IAC.

Good Luck

 

In my Max, the problem and solution was the wiring from and to the MAFS. Not the MAFS. Also the wires on the injectors. The wires are just old and corroded. I have not replaced them, but I have affixed them in such a way that they do not break the steady flow of current that causes the intermittened loss of power.

 

How did you fix your MAF wires?

 

Well here's what I did and, for a month now, has proven to be successful. I removed the rubber incasing the wire and its connector. My original intention was to cut and splice the wires because I felt they were broken due to old age. But as soon as I discarted the rubber casing and spreaded the wires I noticed that my RPMs increased and became steady. Right there and then I decided to NOT cut and splice the wires. Instead I opted to just leaving the wires out of the rubber protective casing and just tape them together with black electrical adhesive tape. To my surprise, that brought the problem back... Much worse than what it originally was! Needless to say that I took the tape off and have the wires dangling off the connector harness to the MAFS. I've driving without stalls for soon to be week number 4.

Some one here mentioned the wires connectors to the injectors... I was messing around with those too, to see if I got a reaction. And I did! My RPMs decreased but never to the point of stalling. This leads me to think that they are not directly responsible for my stalling, but they do contribute.

Think of it like headphone wires that just go bad.

 

Shortly after aquiring my 90 Max SE 5 speed I began having this problem. I could not drive for more than 2 hours without experiencing the issue. Once it started, it would not go away until the car was shut off and cooled down. I tried these things that did not help:
-Coil, Plugs, Wires, Distibutor cap and rotor.
-Checked ECU for codes. None.
-Fuel pump and filter.
-Oxygen Sensor.

Then I did a bunch of things at once and one or more of these things seems to have fixed the issue. I have driven two weeks without the issue since I:
-Replaced the distributor for an unrelated issue. New Distibutor was aquired from Ebay and included the Crank angle sensor.
-Disconnected every electrical connection I could get to (including ECU harness) and blasted with electrical parts cleaner. Allowed to sit overnight and reconnected. Only ones with noticeable corrosion were TPS, Crank angle, power transistor, and MAF connectors.
-Cleaned MAF internals with electric parts cleaner.
-Cleaned Throttle body with "Sensor safe" throttle body cleaner.
-PCV Valve

One of those things got it. Hope that helps.

 

TPS? Hmmmm... good idea.

 

hey, I used to mess with my 92' SENTRA, unplugging throttle body sensor, MassAirFlow sensor. I experienced the similar effect (well full time) since I un-plugged the MAF sensor, it would respont to gas pedal, but produce no usable power. Check whether the Harness for the MAF sensor has a PROPER ground, (sorry dont know which pin). Goodluck!

 

Why would you unplug the MAf?

 

Does anybody know if a MAF from a 89 300z turbo will work to replace my 91 gxe MAF?

 

I have a 1991 gxe and was told that I had to get MAF from a similar Max.

MTO 534

 

If your going to replace it I would consider getting it from autozone
I paid 167 for a rebuilt one. Make sure if you do you order the one rebuilt by cardone they offer a 12month 18K mile warranty. Same as nissan does on a new one.

 

FYI - After finding a winning position for the wires coming out from the MAFS, my max has been on the road for officially 1 month. And last night I got a rebuilt MAFS for $80 from a friend who works at a Body shop... I installed it Monday. WOW! What a difference! Im convinced! The culprit is the MAFS.

 

FYI - Update

Recently I told you that I lucked out and got a used MAFS for $80 bucks from my friend who works at a body shop right? Well, upon installing it on my max and running better than ever, I decided to crack open the rectangular pin connetor box off the old one... Basically I unscrewed it to see what's the inner workings of this thing. After doing so, I found out that the process is IRREVERSIBLE! But I did see what was causing the problem. Three of the pins were just burnt... Well darker than the other two. This told me that current was not flowing as efficient as it was meant to be. The fact is that the sutter connecting the pins to the circuit box on top THE MAFS was burnt and corroded. About the five pin thing, well, actually four are actually connected - one is a ground. Just get another MAFS. Avoid the headache.

 

As I mentioned in another thread, I just disconnected the Oxygen sensor and it appears that the problem is still there. I am idling it now and it still has that infrequent 'drop' to where it almost or does stall. I'll take it out on the highway to confirm. Unreal that this problem is so widespread. I REALLY don't want to change my MAF.

 

I dont suggest letting this problem go for very long. I started having major tranny issues since I had this problem. Now I need a tranny rebuild/replace. Good luck.

 

Mine too. I get mine rebuilt the 27th

 

I have had similar problems on my 90 GXE with 175,000 miles. Stalling, tach jump all sorts of crazy stuff. I finally nailed it down to the cause being a faulty relay to the ECCS and fuel pump which in turn gave me O fuel pressure and the crazy tach. I replaced the relay and that fixed the problem. (under the hood) For more info search on my login name, the full explanation is there.

 

As my 92 is still having this d*mn stalling problem as well, I'm wondering if anyone has REALLY found the fix yet.

Mine really acted up today while I was merging onto the freeway. It was like someone just turned the key off. I had to pull off the road to a complete stop. The engine then started right up! I'd love to fix this, but I don't need to start throwing cash at it right now.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Jeepfreak
[B]As my 92 is still having this d*mn stalling problem as well, I'm wondering if anyone has REALLY found the fix yet.

Mine really acted up today while I was merging onto the freeway. It was like someone just turned the key off. I had to pull off the road to a complete stop. The engine then started right up! I'd love to fix this, but I don't need to start throwing cash at it right now.


I had exactly those symptoms and fixed it by replacing all the coils
good luck

 

it seems that almost everyone that is having this problem and hasn't found a silution has a 92' and i think ve's too. anthing different in the 92'?

 

Does anyone know how to get action started for a product recall? this mysterious problem in the SE is a Nissan problem. How can we get the manufacturer to solve and repair this problem? it is too common to the Maxima series to be a random occurence. Do we have to file a class action lawsuit? Does anyone know a lawyer who might research this matter?

 

MAF sensor (Air flow meter)
Changed mine no stumbles or stalls anymore.
You also may want to check your O2 sensor wiring. Where I live there is a history of animals chewing on the wire(weird I know)from the sensor to the rest of the engine harness on 3rd Gen SOHC.

 

I have the same problem 92' se. Why does this problem occur with the 92' se and not the 93/94 se's. They are all VEs afterall. Is there any differences in the 92 se from the 93/94 se that could solve this problem?

 

Just an update: I bought 2 used coils from a maxima.org member and swapped them out of both the front and rear banks of cylinders. On the last bank, I started the car and had no idle stutter. I took it for an aggressive ride and NO IDLE STUTTER!!! MY MAX IS BACK!!!

/crosses fingers.

 

you know..I also have a '92 max and have that stalling problem. . . scary.

But on my budget Tires are first, and then investigating the sparkplugs and iginition coils

I also have the problem where it gears down alot randomly and flashes the diagnotitic light, ive heard its a ignition coil problem so im dealing with it first.