Okay here's the scoop. I build Ford trucks, Rangers, Explorer's, Bronco's etc. WE do V8 conversios, build them for off road, etc....
My new girlfriend (Oh baby!!! HI Allison has a 1992 Maxima SE 3.0L DOHC with 218K miles, it;s a 5 speed.

She had some valve clatter, poor hesitation, no power, and failed emissions. So I find you guys (Yeah!), yesterday I did the VTC disable, installed a new cat and muffler, 02 sensor, fuel filter, air filter, cleaned the MAF and the throttle body, ran some Sea Foam through the intake and some injector cleaner as well.
Runs 200x's better, the VTC disable removed all the ticking, the new exhaust and 02 sensor have helped a great deal to get SOME of the power back. However it is still not right.

At WOT (pedal floored) it lacks power, hesitates, and slowly catches up to itself, around 4000 RPM's it gets more power, and seems to be at full power. Problem is most apparent off the line, floor it and she barely goes..

Any idea's?

I plan to clean out the EGR valve ASAP and some new plugs are needed I am sure. The previous owner took GOOD care of this car, she however has let it go for too long and the problem has gotten worse and worse.

The diagnosis turned up 02 sensor levels all over the place and EGR sticking, as well as a clogged cat.

Here are the next things I plan to try, but I could sure use some more help from the guys who know these 3.0L DOHC's (sweet engine!), I am really falling in love with these Maxima's!!!

spark plugs, NGK plat
PCV
clean EGR
new thermostat (just because)


I will also be testing the TPS and fuel pressure regulator if possible.

Thanks in advance for any help.....

OH here's a little about my truck in case you gearheads care about anything other then the 4DSC:

1988 Ford Bronco II Eddie Bauer, 4x4
1993 4.0L OHV Explorer engine/modified
1994 A4LD custom built 3 speed OD automatic
Borg Warner 1354 electric shift transfer case
Dana 35 TTB front axle, 4.10's with ARB
Ford 8.8 disc brake rear with 4.10's, L/S
5" hybrid suspension lift with extended radius arms
Autofab fiberglass front fenders with 3" bulge
Skyjacker 4" rear leafs, custom flared bedsides
Custom leather interior
Duff prerunnner bumpers
http://www.geocities.com/410fortune/moab.html

 

Nice trucks,

Sounds like you're on the right track, one check I would recommend is to check/adjust your ignition timing. Take the time to hook up a spare plug wire in between the plug and OEM ignition coil pack. The stock timing is 15*, bump it to 20* or 25*(<<--which is what I'm running with no pinging/knocking what so ever) These VE engines are very particular about thier timing, I never really thought so untill I adjusted mine. No "heat soak" (if you want to call it that) or low power problem for me. The only issue I'm having at times is that the engine will start to buck while cruising, kinda like when you're bumping off the rev limiter. It's hard to tell if it's ignition or fuel related, times like this I wish I had my fuel gauge in the cabin instead of under the hood. Also, even after grounding the VTC some have experienced the noise several .000 miles later. So if the "new" girlfriend Allison starts complaining about the noise, at that point it probably time for rebuild/replace VTC. Oh yeah, nice trucks

 

Hey thanks, yes I forgot to mention I am questioning the timing as well, at 218K miles dont you think the chain and tensioner are due for replacement? How much for a rebuilt DOHC 3.0L ?

I am not clear as to what you mean about running an additional wire from the coil to the plugs? PLease explain?

Thanks! Oh and nice looking Maxima! Dig the interior..thanks for the compliments on the BII, no matter what you drive, give me a break it's 2002, MOD IT!!!

 

At 218K anything possible with timing chains. Personally if it was my car and it had that many miles I would say it's time to inspect the chains, guides and tensioners and replace any needed parts. Of course this involes pulling all three front covers, which could be a pain within itself. Lucky for me I had my engine semi apart 13K ago and all that's in question inspected good, I'm now at 125K. Not too sure on what a rebuilt cost but with you being a gearhead you can save your money and do it yourself. If you do venture off that way, buy the FSM (Factory Service Manual) for this engine highly recommended. The biggest factor is time, do we ever have enough. The idea with using a spare wire betwen the plug and coil pack is the give you a place to hook up the inductive pick-up from the timing light. As you know there's no spark plug wires and some have hook up the timing light around the injector harness which I feel will give you a totally wrong reading. But it's much easier doing it that way instead of taking the time to splice a wire in between.

 

Well we picked up the Haynes manual yesterday, no shop manual, but a good place to start.

I would prefer to just but a rebuild long block and drop it in, but first I want to make sure that all teh cars sensors, fuel system, etc are all functioning properly, planning to get at least another year from it before new engine and clutch. Suspensio is in great shape, tires are wearing evenly, struts feel good, alignment is dead on.

If I do the timing chain, wouldnt it just be easier to yank the engine? ON FWD's the timing chain is a PITA!!! hahaha but nothing I couldnt handle in a weekend.

You see once I get the bug, it is on, this SE could get completely re-worked and customized, but first she's gotta drive it everyday so I need to get rid of the hesitation/power loss first.

I have been reading up, seems the injectors get clogged on these suckers, do I need to pull each one to test them? Also I may need to do a compression test. The fella's who worked on her car previously said she had 2 dead cylinders, but it feels like all 6 are firing, at least most of the time to me. I skipped the professional $90 fuel system backflush, figuring I could run some cleaner through myself. I know the backflush is better, but I am used to Ford where all it takes is a little fuel system clean, I am NEW to the Maxima.....

I am all ears! Thanks again.....

 

If you notice alot of misfiring from the exhaust, that usually means that you have a dead cylinder in there somewhere. If you do have this problem, try this:

1.Open the hood, start the car up.
2.Pull each wire connection off of the coil packs, one at a time.
3.If you notice that the engine noise does NOT change when you pull the connector off, you know that that is your bad cylinder(s).

I did this when my fuel injectors started to fail, and should work the same for you if you have a dead cylinder.

Hope I could help! Good luck with the VE!

 

There is no sign of a misfire, not that I can tell. Seems to be running on all 6. Problem is intermittant and mostly at WOT, if you drive her with a light foot she pulls okay, floor it and no response. Problem is intermittant.

Few questions without having the car here to pop the hood:

Does the intake plenum need to be removed to reach the 3 rear injectors? Can I do an OHM reading on the injectors with them still installed (all 6)? Most likely I will get the gaskets and pullthe intake this weekend, have the injectors cleaned and replace any that are out of spec, man these NISSAN parts are $$$$$ !!!!


Going to do NGK plugs tonight, will get a good look at the coil packs at that time.


(Sorry having problems with login, had to re-register.) Thanks for any help, I am all ears..............

 

Yes, the intake plenum will need to be removed in order to get at the injectors. Yes, you can test the injectors while the're installed. It will probably take you a couple hours, it you know what to do.

 

reminds me of my old 86 EB bronco II
good times good times

 

I had the same prob. There was no torque but once it got up to speed it cruise fine until I hit a hill where I would got WOT, but there was no power there to move the car. Took it to dealer and it turn out 2 of my 4? chain tensioners were bad. Got them replace and now it run like the wind. So that could also be the problem.

 

OKay thanks for the idea's.

OKay went to lunch with Allison, I do notice a misfire inthe exhaust, when she was pulling away it was pulsing, obviously a cylinder or two are dead. So injectors and coil packs need to be tested.

How common are coil pack or injector failures with this engine?
I have been reading up and it is discussed often, as well as a faulty MAF, however I belive her MAF to be working properly.

I will try pulling the coil wires one a t a time this evening to see if I cant located thedead cylinder(s).

Thanks for all your help!

Any tips on how to determine if the dead cylinder is the injector or the coil pack? Can I hook up a spark plug wire on the end of the coil pack and check for spark on a metal portion of the block similar to what you would do on a "normal" distributor engine? I can determine if she has a dead cylinder(s) no problem, I can try the "smell the sparkplug" test to eliminate the injector as the cause. Just wondering if there are any other sure fire ways to determine the cause of the dead cylinder.....

Oh and we are in a hurry because she has 10 days to get a free re-try at the emissions, otherwise another $35 to test, and she already spent $500 yesterday on new exhaust, 02, and all that stuff.......

Thanks!!!

 

To test the spark, just take the coil pack out and the spark plug. Put the spark plug in the end of the coil pack. Make sure it's connected and start the car up, this way you can make sure that you have spark. Or, you can buy a spark tester, available at parts stores(Auto Zone, Advanced Auto, etc). Good luck, hope all goes well!

 

Coolio, thanks for your help, I willkeep you posted on progress. Am I gonna get 2400V through my arm doing it this way?
I have been zapped before by my DIS Ford ignition, and it;s not fun.....

 

To test the resistance of the rear 3 injectors, the plenum does not have to be removed. There is a sub harness on the left that has four connections. Be carful of the connector that feeds the injectors it always has juice! The injectors are negativley pulsed. But anyway you can guess with female side to find the resistance of the injectors.

The coils DO go bad, and you can physically inspect them for cracks in the body. You can also use an ohm meter across the primary coil to see whether they are within range. If they are original they should simply be replaced, because they can still short internally and an ohm test will not reveal this unless they are tested under a load.

One other important component in the ignition system is the transistor pack!! It can be tested, I recently replaced mine (93,000) and I can feel the engine pull harder at redline. There is a simple continuity test that the FSM has to test the ignition pack. Its located to the right of the engine near the crankshaft positioning sensor, it is small and square, has a connector entering and one leaving it.

O yeah if the injectors test out to be okay, they still may be leaking. You can do a pressure leak down test, but chances are they will be leaking. beck/arnley makes a fuel injection tune up kit for the ve, it includes all gaskets and ALL o-rings to do the job proper, you can get it from www.carparts.com . Also when I did my injectors I cleaned the filter screens, soaking them in a bath of alcohol and working them with a paint brush to remove all the carbon caught in the screen (stuff that cannot be dissolved when running injector cleaner). Even still though when someone uses injector cleaner, that does not solve the problem with the injector o-rings leaking.

Anyway, your on your way, VE's are a real power house. And if you did pull the motor you could address the VTC's doing a rebuild and cleaning the oil gallies that lead up to them.
www.courtesyparts.com gives you 25% off nissan parts, ask for the internet discount.

 

Eric thanks for the info! I am guessing the proceedures for this are in the Factory Service Manual? Time to locate one.....I am not paying some BS artist at a dealer to find this problem....

I have done injectors a few times, I will re-seat them with the new install kit, and clean the screens, thanks. I am guessing her coil pack(s) are shot. Man they are expensive!!! hahaha I am used to Ford so.... I think a coil pack for my DIS ignition is like $160 from Ford for all 6 cylinders......

I'll keep you posted, I am very impressed with the 3.0L DOHC, great design!!! is a 92 OBD-II still? It is very similar to my 93 Ford 4.0L OHV v-6, MAS, EGR, etc....they are VERY similar aside from my Ford being a pushrod engine......

OKay so I see the coils are approx $60 ea, so $360+ for all 6, yikes, how long do they typically last?
Any places that have them cheaper? What about used? (meaning if they use the same coils in 98 or whatever and I can go dig them out of a 98 Maxima in the yard, is this feasible?)

I know I have alot of questions, but once I learn this stuff I will come back here and help others. I have been on the boards for 6-7 years and help thousands of people, so I really appriciate all your tips, besides I've always wanted to move onto FWD systems so I can finally build a SC Vr6 Corrado for my daily, however now I am thinking Maxima may be a better canditate for boost.......

 

What was her emissions reading why she failed. Depending on the 4-gas reading it can point you in the right direction if you're only trying to past the test within the next 10 days. A few things I use to do whenever I was heading for a emissions test with a car that might not past was. Run the car hard for about 20-30 mins to get that cat really hot, don't just cruise over to the inspection station. A couple gallons of race gas wouldn't hurt either. But more importantly you need to figure out with gas reading cause you to fail and pinpoint on the probably causes. No need to spend all that money just for a retest when you can save it for later and do everything correct. I also believe the Max didn't come OBD II until 95-96 (I think) but I know for sure our 3rd gens aren't

 

knock sensor?

 

Everything passed except the HC readings were too high, I think the limit is 2.3 and she got a 6.56. High HC readings are caused by unburned fuel (No spark or leaking injectors I am thinking) I did not get a chance to test for a dead cylinder last night, will work on it Saturday morning.

The 02 sensor and the new exhaust with a tune up helped 10 fold, but it still feels like a 4 banger, not a 190HP V6.

Plans are in the works to clean and re-seat all the injectors, and to replace all 6 coil packs,

Where is the cheapest place to buy the coils? I saw them for $58 ea + 25% off for a internet discount. So $360- 25% = $270. not bad I guess it just blows my mind, it's like working on a BMW......

I bet I find one or two bad coils, I hope it;s that easy.
I have thought about the knock sensor but first I need to get all six firing.
The VTC's, knock sensor, and mounts will wait until I pull the engine for a rebuilt long block, next summer most likely....

 

Actually that IS the discounted price (~~58$) hehe, are you having fun yet

Call this place and ask if you can still get the 30% discount, even if you cannot still ask what the price is after the 25% because it might be better than courtesyparts

Jerry Rome Nissan
(Authorized Stillen Dist., located in W. Springfield, MA)
Ken/John/Tony 413-746-2266 or 800-637-7663
30% off on OE parts for Sept. 2002

 

OKay here's the latest.

Located 4 coils in town, tested good, $15 ea. from a trusted yard I have worked with before, 90 day warranty.
Dont know if any of Allison's coils are bad but I am assuming they at least need to be wrapped until we can replace all 6. I am still waiting to find out if he has 2 left and 2 right or what.

----Can someone tell me which coils are left and which are right (front and rear would seem to make more sense).

I have also located the o rings and gaskets needed for the injectors. Going to test the injectors tomorrow bright and early, will replace any that dont test out with re-mand units, the others will be getting a cleaning and new O rings.

----Also on the VE I need the plenum gasket, I can make a new TB gasket, but do I need the metal lower intake gasket?

I am also replacing all 6 of her plugs with NGK platinums.

Anyother tips/advice appriciated!!! Thanks fella's!! we'll get this SE running on all 6 before Monday......

 

i have this problem 2, i have my timing advanced as well...b/f i messed with the car it would do this on if i had the cruise control on say 40 and by going down a hill i increased speed to 45...after the timing increase it does it at idle (the idle will drop from 700 to 500 and the car shakes a bit, then the rpms go back 2 normal 4 about 20 seconds and it repeats) and when going cruising at 50-65, but NOT when accelerating...very strange...any way we can figure out what this is? it just makes me nervous cause i hope its not hurting the car in the long run...

btw...good luck to the guy w/ the probs, sorry but im 2 dumb to help

 

No, you dont need the lower intake manifold gasket UNLESS you wanna go the extra yard and do the knock sensor. On the max the terminals corrode on the knock sensor, the computer then retards the timming and this is a big loss of power. The terminals can be cleaned on the sensor and connector. There is a sub harness for the knock sensor that is located near the fuel pressure regulator. you can check the resistance to find out whether or not the terminals are corroded. The resistance is very high so you'll need a ohm meter that can go into the meg ohm range. A good knock sensor reads a little less than .5meg ohm. My bad one read 5meg ohm. So to check the knock sensor you need to unplug that sub harness (it only has two leads) one lead is actually just sheilding the other is the signal wire. So you need to measure both wires going to the knock sensor to a ground point, one of those combinations will give you a reading that you want (from the connector to ground). I wish we could solder the wire onto the knock sensor but I think that it wont be able to tolerate the heat. If you can find some conductive epoxy (its out there and its expensive) but that would be ideal. Where I work we use silver epoxy, it costs 15$/gram so its about 500$ a small tube hehe unfortunatley I didnt get to use it on my max. But my point is if you decided to do the knock sensor you have to do what ever you can to prevent the terminals from simply corroding again. After I cleaned the connector on my KS I sealed the outside of the connector with RTV silicon to prevent air/moisture from getting in.

O yeah the draw back of doing the KS is that the gaskets for the lower intake manifold are VERY expensive. The gasket is like a tri-layer sandwich of metal and rubber. It probably also has to do with the fact that this motor was only made for 3 years (they were the best ), thats why companies like Felpro wont make them.

 

Good point about wraping the coils. Like many others I also have crack coils. All three coils on my right bank are crack, but the left bank is ok. Due to the money issue at the time I wasn't able to replace any so I wrap them (all six) tightly with electrical tape. Due to the confined space you're only able to wrap them maybe 1.5x. On my crack coils I was definately able to see signs of arching. Someone had posted before that he also wrap his coils then later replace his coils (can't remember if it was new or used, I think new) and he couldn't tell the difference between the wrap and replacement coils. This lead me to believe there's "probably" no major driveability difference between the wrap and replacement coils so I put the coil replacement on the back burner for now. Then again some have posted great improvement after replacing the coils, who knows. Also, during your initial search you may have read threads about a TSB for the knock sensor circuit. I can't remember the TSB # but it stated something like "If the ignition timing does not advance X amount during several WOT runs, replacement of the KS and sub-harness is needed" of course this is while using some sort of hand-held scanner. Damn, 6.56 on the HC is extremly high as you're aware. If I'm a gambling man I'll bet your HC readings is ignition related instead on fuel system. Since a new O2, exhaust and tune-up helped 10x and depending on how long she has been running rich I would re-check the 02 and cat for build-up since these two items do not like excessive fuel.

 

hey 410Fortune, there is one other thing that can be replaced. This one you can afford . The terminals on the temperature sensor corrode big time (red connector, on right side of engine). You can clean them really well and it should run fine, or go ahead and replace it, ~20$ . You would still need to clean the connector.
This will make a big difference in idle/performance.

 

could you give me a better description of the connectors location? i'd like to do this tomorrow while i'm doing a few things to the car.

 

It's right next to (in front of) the throttle body, in the valley between the cylinder heads. There's two sensors there... the red one which is coolant temp sensor for the ECU, and a one-wire black one which is the temp sensor for the interior coolant gauge.

 

thanks

 

OKay you guys are great!

This weekend I did a bunch of work on the SE.
First off I replaced 4 of the 6 coils. Helped quite a bit, though all the old coils were in decent shape and producing spark.
I replaced the spark plugs, some moron had regular Autolite's in there. Yikes! I replaced them with NGK douple platinum. Again big difference.

I ohm'd out all 6 injectors, all 6 of them were right at 11 ohm so I assume they are all 6 okay, maybe dirty and maybe leaking a little, but I will leave that job for another day.

The car now runs excellent. It is lacking some power (if you ask me) but that could be due to the 218K miles, the grounded VTC's, etc.
We are taking it back for an emissions test today, keep your fingers crossed!

I will replace the temp sensor! and clean the harness. Thanks for the tip Eric!
I did buy the plenum gasket but I didnt get to pull and re-seat all 6 injectors this weekend, if I need to I will do it soon.

PLans are to build a new DOHC for this car next year or so, I will take a look at the knock sensor harness and replace the timing chaon and tensioners before then if need be.

Again thanks for all your help, I really like this car! I dont like the $$$$ of the parts, but thats allright, at least I save on labor!!!

Update coming after emissions test.....cross your fingers!!

 

If it wasn't for that (saving on the labor) I know for sure this car wouldn't be in my driveway. Good luck

 

Damn Columbus day = Emissions place closed.

That sucks! The test sheet (the one she failed) says you have 10 calandar days to re-test for free, well today is 10 calandar days and it;s a flippin holiday, you know what that means right? Yup they are gonna charge her tomorrow........Sucks! If you ask me 10 calandar days is not enough to get your car fixed, especially when the problems are emissions related.........

Jerks!

Anyways I drove the car today and it is running GREAT! These engines really pick up after 4000 RPM's, seems a little doggy off the line. Oh well what do you want for 218K miles..... I cant wait to build a new one for her car, butnow I am thinking why not go with a turbo engine. Does teh 300Z turbo engine & drivetrain bolt into one of these Maxima's?

Gonna start looking for some rims for her, and the Stillen lip is next, I also may remove her side moldings and she really likes the BMW halo headlights.....hehehe thank god for this site...oh and if anybody ever needs help with their Ford just let me know......

 

Fords suck, hehe J/k

Try advancing the timming like candiman suggests. Just rotate the crankshaft positioning sensor clockwise, about 5-8 mm. you should mark the original position (scribe a line) before you make any adjustments.

I think 5mm is approximatley 4degree of advancement.

 

I am a ford fanatic. But i also love the max. It was my first foriegn car. But i was haveing a similar problem that i have yet to solve. I also have 90 3.8l v6 tbird. That is being modded just to race this max se of mine. I keep getting smoked at start in the t-bird by the max but at a lanch speed of 40mph my tbird eats the max alive. each have there strong points and i need to improve on both.(this was a misc. post) but hey I'm with ya on the ford part. lol. its nice to now that i am not the only ford guy in nissan maxima forum!!!!

Will

 

Keep in mind that advancing the timing can increase unburned hydrocarbon emissions. Keep it at factory setting or retarded a bit for emissions testing. As for the turbo, I wouldn't say it's a bolt in procedure, but you can get manifolds and other turbo parts from various nissan turbo engines. The single turbo Jap VG30DET might be the best option, but I'm not sure where to get that stuff. It will take some custom exhaust work, intake plumbing, IC plumbing (if you want one..not really a big issue if you run around 8psi or less, simplifies installation and eliminates losses associated with an IC), fuel management (need ECU upgrade and bigger injectors or a piggyback extra injector system as the stock injectors will max out rather quickly) and a bigger fuel pump. So about the only botl in part about it would be bolting on the manifolds and bolting the turbo to that..the rest is a custom job..but it has and can be done with enough cash of course. I assume your T-bird is a 5.0..LX sleeper style, I like that. My buddy had a beige one with a posi rear, looked like grandma's car, but could roast the tires nicely! Good luck with the rest of your max repairs, we all know how much fun they are to work on!

 

Willow, Sounds like your 3.8L could benefit from some gears, perhaps 3.73's would get you off the line like a rocket!
The 3.8L is a good engine, a 5.0L with 2 cyl chopped off. If I had a 3.8L T bird is would now have a Supercharged 3.8L in it, then the Max wouldnt have a chance. Have you considered the 2.8L SC conversion? hehehe. I have a friend who put a 3.8L into a Ranger, that thing is a monster. Though I do not know much abnout the 3.8L I do hear they have problems with leaks in the lower intake gasket and also heads. Know anyhting about this?

Male, Yes thanks for the tip. The timing is in its stock position for now, I didnt have my timing light with me, I wont adjust the timing until I have the light, I did play with the sensor slightly. OKay so if I want this Maxima to go turbo it;s gonna take custom plumbing just like most turbo projects, not beyond my means, but may be too much for Allison's Max (maybe I'll buy myself one . I do not own a T bird, that was Willow. I have a Bronco II, hybrid. I am currently looking for a 93 Mustang drop top with a straight body and top (only requirement) then I plan to find a late model 5.0L Stang at auction, and swap the drivetrain to the 93, basically a complete restoration. However I would also like to do the same thing to a 93-94 VW Corraddo, so someday....

Eric, again thanks for the advice. We are doing the emissions today, this weekend I plan to re-seat all size injectors and clean them up, all 6 tested right dead at 11 ohms. I have the o ring kits and the intake plenum gasket. I will also clean the EGR and whatnot while I am in there, but she is running great now, Allison says better then it has since she got it 3 years ago.

I am looking for the following parts:
92 Max drivers side tail
92 Max drivers side front side marker (probably just do the euro clears instead)
Stillen body kit
Carpet kit (currently tan)


Once this thing is fully tuned up, I will build her a cold air intake, look for some 17-18" rims, and start modding the suspension, springs (slight drop) and struts, the front and rear shock tower braces, then we can work on the grill, headlight conversion, etc...I am getting hoooked on that Max, it is fun to drive!

Thanks again for all the help, I will keep you updated....

 

The stillen body kit is available for $450 in the group deals forum.

 

Cool, I almost had a built small block in my 84 ranger 2 wheel drive. I had the engine on a stand, custom interior in it, beefy wheel and tire combo, but I flipped it before I could get the engine into it..maybe better off that way, I was 16..V-8 ranger might have gotten me into some trouble I plan on diving into the turbo option soon, once my financial situation loosens up a bit. You like VW's? My buddy has an '85 GTI with a G60 conversion..that thing hauls big time and handles like a slot car. I'm a fan of Corrado's too. A V-8 240ZX is next after the Turbo Max, some day...

 

Male, you should see the 5.0L HO conversion we did into my friends 93 Explorer Eddie Bauer. Took 7 months and $8000 using a JET tranny, a 94 Mustang HO engine to start with, fully built for 4x4ing, custom everything. This is the first EFI 5.0L conversion I have seen that is done RIGHT. Most guys drop a carbed 5.0L into a early Ranger or BII, not us, carb's are no good off road and the EFI is just more efficient, etc. I have done several 4.0L OHV conversions (including my truck) and after seeing what it took to do the 5.0L I will stick with my 4.0L. I am going tobuild a new 4.0L next year, shooting for 240 HP naturally aspirated, right now I am at about 190 with all my mods and a custom computer chip is finally on it's way (Should see +15HP or so).

I have considered doing a VR6 conversion into a 91-92 GTI, the G-60 SC is also nice, but a super charged VR6 is a Porsche beater. The Corraddo body would just be a bonus if I can find one cheap enough. I really like the new GTI's but they are a little pricey for me and if I was gonna spend that much I would get a TT....

I would like to do a SVO, 2.3L turbo into a 2wd Ranger and slam it as well...now I just need to hit the lotto and build a shop for allthis to happen! hahahaha! N E ways I am looking forward to this Maxima project i am taking on, I never do anything half assed and I;m not gonna start now, the gen 3 Maxima is a great starting platform! Should be fun........

 

410Fortune,


Oh yeah the heads are the weakest part of the engine. Almost every case burned out a set of Head Gasket at 100,000 miles. I just hit that mark and they went so i used that excuse to put on P&P heads. I got them for extras on the T-bird SC that I want cleaned them P&P was sittin just waitin, So i put them on and its running kinda rough but I'm getting my chip in 2 days that should solve the problem.

Male,
Naw sorry I have the 3.8l V6. Still a sleeper. Its amazing how people in Hawaii used to doubt my bird but now, I'm well known(as the guy with the black t-bird, lol) but that is the cars in my race team (look in the sig.) My t-bird is the most modded right now but i'm gonna catch the max up to it in a month. I'll keep ya'll posted.

But yeah I like my Max project, also. Not moveing as fast as u of course but its fun all the same I hope to drop the 300zxtt engine in my max next summer (the same as when I put in a 4.2l("the lightning engine") into the t-bird. This will be interesting see these two go at it). I got big plans for these two. i wonder which one woud be the best after about 5000 put into each? that will be interesting to find out.

Will

 

It passed! took it back for emissions today and it passed big time. The HC numbers went from 6.2 (failed) to 0.23, allowable limit is 2.5

So the cat and muffler, 02 sensor, new coils, and Platinum plugs fixed the car, along with the VTC disable.

Couldnt have done it without you guys! Thanks again!

Now this weekend I am pulling the intake plenum and fuel rails to service the injectors, then we are gonna start running a Nissan filter and Mobil 10W-30 full synth in this engine. I use nothing but Mobil synth in my truck (all, engine, tranny, diff's, etc). I am also looking into re-building the VTC's and maybe the mobil can help get oil to them again. This weekend I will also be hooking up a timing light and advancing it to 20 or so (in Denver the more timing you can get the better 5280 feet you know). I know she is gonna need a clutch and a timing chain in the next year or so, so I may yank the engine and do those at the sametime, along with the knock sensor fix.

All this because of you guys!! Thanks again....great work, great site, and I am now hooked on this Maxima.

I need body parts, DR front fender, pearl white would be a bonus. Anybody know yards in the midwest that have Maxima's?

Thanks!!!