Is it possible to put a turbo from a 300z on my maxima? or if any turbo at all?

 

The answer you seek, grasshopper, is here.

 

The answer is YES at low boost, do a search, there is a current thread going on right now answering this that I started, and don't want to go into again as it is already multi paged with over 30+ posts actually I think over 60, not checked it recently

Jared

 

actually there's people running 15+ PSI on theirs on 91 octane pump gas. stock bottom end even. It's all in the tuning.

 

Wait, 15 Psi on an NA? Are you referring to a certain 4th Genner? If you keep the charge cool, you certainly could do this.

 

turbo 3rd gens....man you guys crack me up. thats sooooooo gay.....

 

 

nope.. 3rd gen.. VG 5 spd. stock bottom end.
his name is Mike.

 

I don't doubt it. VG bottom ends are solid man. My name is Mike too, and I have a VG 5-spd..must be an omen.

 

LOL

 

My girlfriend diagnosed me. I was just a car nut, now I have turbo on the brain..I must have boost Dammit!

 

after driving a gst eclipse i can't get the feeling of a turbo kicking in out of my head... i'm going insane to get mine done now...

 

And you've only had the motor for a week or so. I've had all my parts sitting in the shop since last summer. (as in over a year now!)
damn school and work. who needs a job or education?!

 

I think he`s Refering to my master boost setup :p

 

I'm 23 (be 24 on Thurs) and already palnning my retirement..and I don't mean when I'm 55. My girl, myself and one of my friends have a few thigns in the works...I should be able to drop my title of "employee" within 5 years and just be me...doing business..for myself. Then I can really live life. SO tired of being someone elses *****. I just want to build unique street cars for fun! I want a 12 sec MAxima...no 10 seconds..with a rolll cage, and big blue bottle..and a parchute..

 

i just want a turbo awd maxima...

 

J-spec Bluebird SS (US ALTIMA) has an SR20DET and AWD..anything is possible with enough $$. But this is some serious modification. I'm worried about traction probs..been thinking about it. Stiffer springs in the back obviously help (some FWD drag cars weld the rear shocks) but I bet adapting an airbag setup to the rear would be great. Just pump them up nice and firm. Might look funny all jacked up in the back, but I bet it will help alot..I have another idea for ALL FWD cars that drag, but it's a secret..until I make a set, then I'll share.

 

yeah... i wish i had some money... that would be nice

 

If you do your turbo right, it will be a BEAST. Just keep it simple and tune it right. Are you going to run a JWT computer or a piggyback type syste. Personally, I think the piggyback is the way to go. As long as it is tunable. Put that JWT reprog. on there and it is what it is..no means for adjustment except going ot a dyno, getting a fuel curve reading, and sending it back with $100 to get it reburned. ANd, every time you mod it, it would be best to reprog. it..better to have an adjustabel system you can tune on your own.

 

hmm... well now that you told me that i'll be looking into the adjustable ones. do you have any recommendations?

 

not sure how much better...I think you might wanna look over on Z31.com and see what JWT has been cooking up before you start venturing into self-tuning...more risk and more chances of losing power if you aren't sure what you're doing. there are 450+ hp Z31s using JWTs system, unless you plan to go higher why waste the time and money on a self tuner??

 

do you mean in the tires?

 

You are right on that one, more chance for error, I'm just suggesting some ideas I read..posted today in fact on z31.com..they go back and forth over the JWT thing. But one thing is for sure..the fastest z31's are using this system. In fact, you can get the parts alot cheaper from other places (Cobra MAF, injectors, etc).

 

oh yeah no doubt...I guess we will all see the power of "stand alone" tuners when The Max finishes up his turbo 3rd gen in the coming months...hes using the Motec unit I think. with the power he going for though, I think JWT would **** his pants trying to make a program for his 500+ hp plans!!

 

That's what I'm talking about man..if your gonna do it, go all out!

 

I'd start thinking about a different drivetrain with 500+ hp. Not to say the 3rd gen couldn't handle it but, that would be my excuse for stripping mine to the chassis, lots 'o chopping and welding + the cost of ATTESA!

 

If you are going to turbocharge it I recommend a smt-unit. You can find it at www.perfectpower.com

 

he's having a lot of frame strengthening done, and thought about ordering subframes from WSP.. after I talked to him about the cost in just shipping them over there, he decided it would be cheaper to have something custom made on his half of the world...
as for drivetrain, he's got a Level 10 stage III build on it.. he sent it to them a year or so ago and told them to build it to handle 600hp.. a few zillion bucks in freight, he's got an auto that should NEVER blow up.

 

If you are that serious about a car and you KNOW you are going to A) finish the project and B) Keep it for a while, 2 grand into the tranny is a great investment..and insurane. Being able to drive 500HP confidently is alot more fun thatn driving it and praying nothing breaks! I think I have figured out the way to go with our manual trannies..precision rebuild, custom LSD from Pro-Tech transmissions (NY) and cry the whole damn thing..that's about the best I can think of. Any other ideas? I think if it is build well and the earings ae cry'd, it should hold up pretty well. But I think I'll keep a spare in my shed anyway!

 

His tranny cost a hell of a lot more than $2k. He might have payed that in freight alone. Also, you don't get the JWT ecu, put your car on the dyno and then send it back. You get their preset program for what you have(injectors, turbo, etc) and then tune it on the dyno with a air/fuel controller. You only get the ECU reprogrammed if you have a major change(injector size, different MAF, etc).

 

He paid a couple grand in shipping alone. the rebuild was about twice that.
not cheap!


I woudl also highly suggest doing something to strengthen the shift forks in the manual. the first rebuild ($850) was new bearings and synchros for the lower gears. the second rebuild ($2000) was because the shift fork broke and cross-shifted and it shattered gears 2,3, and 4.. all because of a cheap aluminum part that wasn't replaced during the first rebuild when it should have been.

 

have any idea who would make that kind of stuff?

 

That's a tough one. I'd have to guess it would be custom. But then again, I'm thinking there are little things you can do to strengthen them. Kiind of like how you treat stock connecting rods to strengthen them. Glass beading maybe, and removing stress concentrations (flashing, seams, sharp edges) and if there is any credibility in the crytreatment claims I have read, that should help a ton. This is the route I'll take. At first anyway.