http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hreadid=146662

finally did the bypass this weekend (replaced KS with a 470K ohm resistor)... at first there was some serious detonation (i had my timing at ~22 degrees), so i set it back to stock - 15 degrees. after driving my car up all the hills in my neighborhood 100 times listening for detonation i was confident i wasn't pinging anymore....

the verdict...
didn't have a chance to really drive the car for a long time until today. the car DEFINATELY feels like it's got a new set of b*lls. lowend has greatly improved. i have about a 45 minute drive to work everyday, 25% of the time sitting in stop and go traffic (LIE). the car is nice and warmed up by the time i get off the off-ramp to my work place. merging onto traffic is always disappointing cause i can feel how much slower my car is by that time... but not today! had it in second, waited for traffic to clear up, gunned it.... smiled. dyno and write-up coming soon.

( for the sake of searching.... HEAT SOAK )

 

Good deal...seems this could be a cheap way of finding out if the KS is in fact bad instead of shelling out $200 and hoping it's the problem.

I dont see a write up or instructions on how to go about the bypass?

 

greatest thing about this is that it cost me around $0.40. i'm going to eventually replace thge knock sensor when i have to dig into my engine for something else....ahem VTCs! but for now this band-aid fix works for me. i want to dyno my car first b4 the write-up.

 

ummmm, 470k? I heard it wsa closer to a 1k resistor?
470k sounds a little high for a piezo transducer, but you never know.. we have some at work around 50 ohms and others around 500k ohms.

 

So like, what did you do? put a resistor in series with the KS? A high impedence resitor in series (or parallel for that matter) would simple reduce the signal going in to the ECU, so it won't retard the timing. Basically you are "muffling " the KS from the ECU, why not just disconnect it?

 

Question is would just disconntecting it invoke a fail safe map in the ECU like it does when a MAF goes bad or removing the Dropping resistor tranny trick. What Wattage resistor did you use? in series or parrallel you leave the maf plugged in?

Where did you find hills on long Island.
where do you park your car at night.

Matt you mentioned something you here of it before?

 

I'm kinda interested in seeing a write-up on this too...

 

Please let us know how you by passed it??? Did you do it in series?
or parallel with the connector? I am getting a knock and would like to see if it is the K/S before replacing it.

Thanks Lance

 

if you're getting knock, why would you want to bypass the the ks?? the ks doesn't cause knock.... bypassing it is the last thing you want to do in this situation (wow)... if you are knocking/pinging, check your timing and use higher octane gas.

bypassing the ks can cause MAJOR damage to your car... that's why i'm hesitant in doing a write up. i'll do a write up then somewhere down the line someone will tell somebody else an "i heard" story without giving them the full detail... couple of months, thier car goes *kaput*.

ok now that i have some sort of disclaimer -
you don't wire the resistor in series or in parrallel with the ks. think about it... a new ks is about 500k ohm.... the resistor you buy should be around 500k ohm...

 

My thoughts were that because I have a knock that the knock sensor could be bad sending a false signal to the ECU, causing the timing to advance or retard to much causing the timing to be off and making the top end knock. I have check the timing and have all ways ran 91 octane. From the noise I am getting I think that it must be more than the knock sensor.

Thanks Lance

 

hook it back up
or face the reality of a blown head gasket because of it.

 

I haven't unhooked it I was just trying to get some input to the problem that I am having.

Thanks

Lance

 

An unhooked KS wont cause anything bad to happen. The ECU will retard the timming 8-10 degrees and you'll loose a lot of power.

 

the knock sensor is there for a reason. not for the ecu's amusment. and not for yours either

it is there to PROTECT THE MOTOR, nothing more, nothing less, if you remove it you WILL run the eisk of blowing it up.

be it turbo, s/c nitrous, all motor. keep the sensor.

if you don't and detonate hard enough you WILL hurt something.

i do know what im talking about....