What Do I do???????
12-17-2002, 10:53 AM
#1
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What Do I do???????
Alright, bought a 94 Se Friday night. Love the car and only got it for $2250.00. Here's the deal though, I knew I would have to fix some things. I had front brakes put on yesterday and when I stop I'm still getting the same vibration. The brakes are stopping good,but when the car almost comes to a complete stop the car vibrates and I hear a huummm noise. Also I have to have the water pump replaced tommorow and put front struts on. This is suppose to cost me $330.00 for the pater pump and install and $275.00 for the front struts and install. Not only that but when the car is in drive and I'm sitting at a stop light the car kind of studdors. Thats the only thing I can think to call it. The rpm's kind of fluctuate. What can this be???? I feel like I can of bit off to much. But I guess it's not to bad yet since I'm still under $3000 total for the car. Need serious help..........
12-17-2002, 11:10 AM
#2
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Re: What Do I do???????
Originally posted by Gjohnson
Alright, bought a 94 Se Friday night. Love the car and only got it for $2250.00. Here's the deal though, I knew I would have to fix some things. I had front brakes put on yesterday and when I stop I'm still getting the same vibration. The brakes are stopping good,but when the car almost comes to a complete stop the car vibrates and I hear a huummm noise. Also I have to have the water pump replaced tommorow and put front struts on. This is suppose to cost me $330.00 for the pater pump and install and $275.00 for the front struts and install. Not only that but when the car is in drive and I'm sitting at a stop light the car kind of studdors. Thats the only thing I can think to call it. The rpm's kind of fluctuate. What can this be???? I feel like I can of bit off to much. But I guess it's not to bad yet since I'm still under $3000 total for the car. Need serious help..........
Alright, bought a 94 Se Friday night. Love the car and only got it for $2250.00. Here's the deal though, I knew I would have to fix some things. I had front brakes put on yesterday and when I stop I'm still getting the same vibration. The brakes are stopping good,but when the car almost comes to a complete stop the car vibrates and I hear a huummm noise. Also I have to have the water pump replaced tommorow and put front struts on. This is suppose to cost me $330.00 for the pater pump and install and $275.00 for the front struts and install. Not only that but when the car is in drive and I'm sitting at a stop light the car kind of studdors. Thats the only thing I can think to call it. The rpm's kind of fluctuate. What can this be???? I feel like I can of bit off to much. But I guess it's not to bad yet since I'm still under $3000 total for the car. Need serious help..........
Check the wheel bearings. If they are shot, you will be able to "wiggle" the effected wheel by grabbing the top and bottom (while on jacks) and pushing/pulling with each arm.
Do the RPMs fluctuate at idle? While driving? More details please...
12-17-2002, 11:10 AM
#3
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Re: What Do I do???????
Umm, the rotors may not have been rotated/resurfaced right...
Also: for the stuttering check the plugs. They should be platinums, NOT your cheap-o walmart Autolites. NGK is the preferred platinum plug, and it'll cost ya good.
Also: for the stuttering check the plugs. They should be platinums, NOT your cheap-o walmart Autolites. NGK is the preferred platinum plug, and it'll cost ya good.
Originally posted by Gjohnson
Alright, bought a 94 Se Friday night. Love the car and only got it for $2250.00. Here's the deal though, I knew I would have to fix some things. I had front brakes put on yesterday and when I stop I'm still getting the same vibration. The brakes are stopping good,but when the car almost comes to a complete stop the car vibrates and I hear a huummm noise. Also I have to have the water pump replaced tommorow and put front struts on. This is suppose to cost me $330.00 for the pater pump and install and $275.00 for the front struts and install. Not only that but when the car is in drive and I'm sitting at a stop light the car kind of studdors. Thats the only thing I can think to call it. The rpm's kind of fluctuate. What can this be???? I feel like I can of bit off to much. But I guess it's not to bad yet since I'm still under $3000 total for the car. Need serious help..........
Alright, bought a 94 Se Friday night. Love the car and only got it for $2250.00. Here's the deal though, I knew I would have to fix some things. I had front brakes put on yesterday and when I stop I'm still getting the same vibration. The brakes are stopping good,but when the car almost comes to a complete stop the car vibrates and I hear a huummm noise. Also I have to have the water pump replaced tommorow and put front struts on. This is suppose to cost me $330.00 for the pater pump and install and $275.00 for the front struts and install. Not only that but when the car is in drive and I'm sitting at a stop light the car kind of studdors. Thats the only thing I can think to call it. The rpm's kind of fluctuate. What can this be???? I feel like I can of bit off to much. But I guess it's not to bad yet since I'm still under $3000 total for the car. Need serious help..........
12-17-2002, 11:15 AM
#4
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The rpms fluctuate when the car is in drive but I am stopped. And the car does seem to hesitate a little every now and then when I take off. So, you think it's the spark plugs. I don't think they have been replaced, they guy before didn't seem to service the car properly, I know he said the tranny had never been serviced as far as he knew.
12-17-2002, 11:28 AM
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That I will need some help with. How do I check the timing. I'm like a lettle kid when it comes to this stuff. I don't know a whole lot about fixing cars, but I want to learn. Is there anyplace I can find out more info on this, or a how to??
12-17-2002, 01:10 PM
#10
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5to check the timing, you need a timing gun to set it according to the marks.
instead of doing all the stuff in paieces here and there, the first thing I would do would be to change plugs, wires (if needed), oil and otehr fluids (if the guys doesn't do good service, get rid of everything you can and start fresh), inspect sensors, use BG44K fuel cleaner. The shuddering at idle could be a fuel issue so use fuel cleaner and having the injectors cleaned couldn't hurt. It could also be a vaccum leak somewhere. Cleaning the throttle body and replacing air filter is also a good idea
I'd check the belts to make sure they aren't worn and if you're working on the water pump check the timing chain.
Did you have the car inspected before purchasing it? A good mechanic could track all the issues with the car for about $100.
instead of doing all the stuff in paieces here and there, the first thing I would do would be to change plugs, wires (if needed), oil and otehr fluids (if the guys doesn't do good service, get rid of everything you can and start fresh), inspect sensors, use BG44K fuel cleaner. The shuddering at idle could be a fuel issue so use fuel cleaner and having the injectors cleaned couldn't hurt. It could also be a vaccum leak somewhere. Cleaning the throttle body and replacing air filter is also a good idea
I'd check the belts to make sure they aren't worn and if you're working on the water pump check the timing chain.
Did you have the car inspected before purchasing it? A good mechanic could track all the issues with the car for about $100.
12-17-2002, 01:19 PM
#11
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Yea, I had it inspected but the guy didn't do a good job. I think he rushed through it to fast. Plus he was going to do my brakes for me but was jacking me on the price. He said it would run around $350.00 for the brake job, I had them done yesterday for $174.00. But I think I will definitely have to start fresh and clean out the entire system if I want good performance.
12-17-2002, 02:09 PM
#13
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Originally posted by Gjohnson
Should I just take the car in to the local nissan dealership and get an oil change and tune up.
Should I just take the car in to the local nissan dealership and get an oil change and tune up.
12-18-2002, 06:44 AM
#15
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Originally posted by Gjohnson
Someone told me that it might be the PCV valve. Does this sound like normal problems with the PCV
Someone told me that it might be the PCV valve. Does this sound like normal problems with the PCV
12-18-2002, 07:29 AM
#16
Do NOT take it to the local dealers.. they'll charge you out the a$$ for that stuff.
the shuddering/noises when you're coming to a stop are most likely the ABS sensors acting up. can be $$ to fix, but sometimes all it takes is a cleaning.
If you're not busy this Sat morning or Sunday afternoon, we can set up a time to meet and get a lot of those problems looked at. I can rebuild the brakes and suspension blindfolded (I've actually rebuilt the rear end in pitch black darkness with no lights, so yes I actually CAN do it.
)
anyway, bring it by and I'll get a lot of these problems worked out for you.
buy a new set of plugs before you come and bring the front struts. I'll check out the brakes and I've got enough spare parts in my garage to replace anything the shop screwed up until you can buy new ones (if you need them).
the plugs and struts will take about 1.5-2 hours to change... less if you just sit back and watch, but if you want to learn, I'll take my time to show you how to do everything.
You'll also need new dust boots for the struts. they run about $15 each.
anyway, shoot me an email and we can set up a time to do this stuff. I'm starting all the christmas stuff with my family on sat afternoon, but I can work things in. lemme know.
the shuddering/noises when you're coming to a stop are most likely the ABS sensors acting up. can be $$ to fix, but sometimes all it takes is a cleaning.
If you're not busy this Sat morning or Sunday afternoon, we can set up a time to meet and get a lot of those problems looked at. I can rebuild the brakes and suspension blindfolded (I've actually rebuilt the rear end in pitch black darkness with no lights, so yes I actually CAN do it.
)anyway, bring it by and I'll get a lot of these problems worked out for you.
buy a new set of plugs before you come and bring the front struts. I'll check out the brakes and I've got enough spare parts in my garage to replace anything the shop screwed up until you can buy new ones (if you need them).
the plugs and struts will take about 1.5-2 hours to change... less if you just sit back and watch, but if you want to learn, I'll take my time to show you how to do everything.
You'll also need new dust boots for the struts. they run about $15 each.
anyway, shoot me an email and we can set up a time to do this stuff. I'm starting all the christmas stuff with my family on sat afternoon, but I can work things in. lemme know.
12-18-2002, 07:43 AM
#17
Originally posted by nstymax93
Is your alignment on? My alignment is off and when i stop it vibrates and makes a noise, but i know its my alignment because its off really bad!
Is your alignment on? My alignment is off and when i stop it vibrates and makes a noise, but i know its my alignment because its off really bad!
12-18-2002, 08:24 AM
#18
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Matt,
Thanks for the offer man, but I put the Max in the shop this morning to have struts put on and the water pump. The mechanic is also going to check the brakes and make sure the rotors don't need to be resurfaced. I feel like a little girl, throwing the car in the shop and not jumping under the hood myself but what can you say, my wife is sick, I live in an apartment now and don't really have a place to work on the car, and I don't know the first thing abour foreign cars. Now, I am driving out to my dad's house in Bixby, Thursday morning to try and clean the throttle body. I got the instructions off a website. Sad huh.. Well, I guess you have to start somewhere. But I would like to meet up with you some time in the future to get some advice and help on upcoming mods.
Fashizl,
Thats what I was thinking myself, but someone posted earlier saying that is was the alignment. I think if anything the rotors neeed to be resurfaced, or like you said maybe they just need to be broken in.
Thanks for the offer man, but I put the Max in the shop this morning to have struts put on and the water pump. The mechanic is also going to check the brakes and make sure the rotors don't need to be resurfaced. I feel like a little girl, throwing the car in the shop and not jumping under the hood myself but what can you say, my wife is sick, I live in an apartment now and don't really have a place to work on the car, and I don't know the first thing abour foreign cars. Now, I am driving out to my dad's house in Bixby, Thursday morning to try and clean the throttle body. I got the instructions off a website. Sad huh.. Well, I guess you have to start somewhere. But I would like to meet up with you some time in the future to get some advice and help on upcoming mods.
Fashizl,
Thats what I was thinking myself, but someone posted earlier saying that is was the alignment. I think if anything the rotors neeed to be resurfaced, or like you said maybe they just need to be broken in.
12-18-2002, 09:28 AM
#20
Not a problem.. just thought you would want to try to get things squared away pretty quickly..
before you send it back to the shop, give me a shout and I'll tell you if I feel up to the job or not (mostly depending on the weather and if I feel like doing xxx job at the moment!)
Anyway, I'll be out of town most of the weekends until after the first of the year, so let me know and we'll meet up then.
FYI.. these cars are EXTREMELY easy to work on. the only thing that taught me how to do any of the work on my cars were my service manual and time under the hood.
before you send it back to the shop, give me a shout and I'll tell you if I feel up to the job or not (mostly depending on the weather and if I feel like doing xxx job at the moment!)
Anyway, I'll be out of town most of the weekends until after the first of the year, so let me know and we'll meet up then.
FYI.. these cars are EXTREMELY easy to work on. the only thing that taught me how to do any of the work on my cars were my service manual and time under the hood.
12-18-2002, 10:46 AM
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Ok, I was planning to change my spark plugs in the morning, but I heard it can be pretty difficult on the rear 3. Is this correct or bad info??? I did a search but can't seem to find any how to's or instructions. Do you know a link? Or is this a cake walk?
12-18-2002, 11:36 AM
#22
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It's not bad. They used some pretty crappy screws and the heads strip easily. I'd recommend unplugging the harnesses at the top of the coils for easier access with a 10 or 12(?) mm socket. Other than that, as long as you have a good extension and spark plug socket on your ratchet its a no sweat job.
Originally posted by Gjohnson
Ok, I was planning to change my spark plugs in the morning, but I heard it can be pretty difficult on the rear 3. Is this correct or bad info??? I did a search but can't seem to find any how to's or instructions. Do you know a link? Or is this a cake walk?
Ok, I was planning to change my spark plugs in the morning, but I heard it can be pretty difficult on the rear 3. Is this correct or bad info??? I did a search but can't seem to find any how to's or instructions. Do you know a link? Or is this a cake walk?
12-18-2002, 12:02 PM
#23
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Originally posted by Gjohnson
Ok, I was planning to change my spark plugs in the morning, but I heard it can be pretty difficult on the rear 3. Is this correct or bad info??? I did a search but can't seem to find any how to's or instructions. Do you know a link? Or is this a cake walk?
Ok, I was planning to change my spark plugs in the morning, but I heard it can be pretty difficult on the rear 3. Is this correct or bad info??? I did a search but can't seem to find any how to's or instructions. Do you know a link? Or is this a cake walk?
Undo each coil pack (12mm I think)
Pull the coil pack out
Use a ratchet with 2 extensions and a deep (spark plug) socket
Loosen the plug all the way
(I use a magnet extension to pull the undone plug out of the plug chamber. Sears has them for $10)
Ensure the new plugs are gapped correctly
Place the new plug inside the deep socket with the two extensions and quickly overturn it into the plug chamber. (Take the ratchet off for this part)
SLOWLY turn the extensions by hand until you feel the plug threads catch, then turn a couple more times ensuring that nothing is cross-threaded
Once you are sure they are not cross threaded, torque the plug with a torque wrench to about 16ft.lbs (experienced mechanics can do this part without a torque wrench)
Place a dab of dielectric grease at the end of each coil pack (the part that connects to the top of the spark plug)
Tighten each coil pack
That's it. It might seem hard, but its really very easy.
12-26-2002, 12:38 PM
#24
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Update
1. Throttle Body cleaned
2. Abs sensor cleaned
3. Buying fuel filter today
4. Buying air fileter today
5. Buying PCV valve today.
I cleaned the throttle body and man was it dirty. I can feel an increase in acceleration and response, but it's still not running properly. Still has hesitation sometimes. The brakes are working great now, but now the ABS light won't go off. What should I do? I will be installing the fuel filter, air filter and PCV valve either tonight or some time this week, I hope that solves the problem. I'm just wondering if I should replace the PCV valve, even if there's nothing wrong with it. I'm not sure, but if I'm diging in the engine to check it I figured for $4 I might as well replace it. This won't have any negative effects, will it? Does anyone have any how to's on replacing the fuel fileter and PCV valve. Any other suggetions or tips???
2. Abs sensor cleaned
3. Buying fuel filter today
4. Buying air fileter today
5. Buying PCV valve today.
I cleaned the throttle body and man was it dirty. I can feel an increase in acceleration and response, but it's still not running properly. Still has hesitation sometimes. The brakes are working great now, but now the ABS light won't go off. What should I do? I will be installing the fuel filter, air filter and PCV valve either tonight or some time this week, I hope that solves the problem. I'm just wondering if I should replace the PCV valve, even if there's nothing wrong with it. I'm not sure, but if I'm diging in the engine to check it I figured for $4 I might as well replace it. This won't have any negative effects, will it? Does anyone have any how to's on replacing the fuel fileter and PCV valve. Any other suggetions or tips???
12-27-2002, 12:15 PM
#25
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Re: Update
I haven't done my PCV valve, but the Fuel filter is easy if you haven't already done it. Under the dash on the drivers side is the fuse box. Somewhere in there is a fuse for the Fuel Pump. Take that out and start the car. After it dies I usually crank it a few more time to make sure the pressure's gone. I had hot gasoline sprayed into my eyes once from the engine side so I'm paranoid now. Clipped onto the right side of the firewall is the fuel filter. Pop it out, undo the hose clamps, and loosen the hoses. Now is a good time for a kool-whip bowl or something to catch the gas from the filter and hoses. (also a good time for safety goggles if you're paranoid like me) Place the hoses on the new filter obeying they flow-> markings, and tighten it down. Replace the fuel pump fuse and you're done.
Originally posted by Gjohnson
1. Throttle Body cleaned
2. Abs sensor cleaned
3. Buying fuel filter today
4. Buying air fileter today
5. Buying PCV valve today.
I cleaned the throttle body and man was it dirty. I can feel an increase in acceleration and response, but it's still not running properly. Still has hesitation sometimes. The brakes are working great now, but now the ABS light won't go off. What should I do? I will be installing the fuel filter, air filter and PCV valve either tonight or some time this week, I hope that solves the problem. I'm just wondering if I should replace the PCV valve, even if there's nothing wrong with it. I'm not sure, but if I'm diging in the engine to check it I figured for $4 I might as well replace it. This won't have any negative effects, will it? Does anyone have any how to's on replacing the fuel fileter and PCV valve. Any other suggetions or tips???
1. Throttle Body cleaned
2. Abs sensor cleaned
3. Buying fuel filter today
4. Buying air fileter today
5. Buying PCV valve today.
I cleaned the throttle body and man was it dirty. I can feel an increase in acceleration and response, but it's still not running properly. Still has hesitation sometimes. The brakes are working great now, but now the ABS light won't go off. What should I do? I will be installing the fuel filter, air filter and PCV valve either tonight or some time this week, I hope that solves the problem. I'm just wondering if I should replace the PCV valve, even if there's nothing wrong with it. I'm not sure, but if I'm diging in the engine to check it I figured for $4 I might as well replace it. This won't have any negative effects, will it? Does anyone have any how to's on replacing the fuel fileter and PCV valve. Any other suggetions or tips???
12-28-2002, 05:30 AM
#26
bah... pansies!!!
just wrap the fuel filter in a rag and pull the hoses off. if you havent' started the car in a half hour or so, then nothing under the hood will be hot and the fuel pressure will be very low.
remove the hose clamps on the filter, then use some pliers to twist the hoses on the filter until they pop loose from the metal. when they spin freely, work them off by hand. before you get them off, stick a rag over the end of the filter that you're removing, and it'll soak up any gasoline that sprays. I've never had one from a Max spray on me, and I've changed a about ten of 'em.
just wrap the fuel filter in a rag and pull the hoses off. if you havent' started the car in a half hour or so, then nothing under the hood will be hot and the fuel pressure will be very low.
remove the hose clamps on the filter, then use some pliers to twist the hoses on the filter until they pop loose from the metal. when they spin freely, work them off by hand. before you get them off, stick a rag over the end of the filter that you're removing, and it'll soak up any gasoline that sprays. I've never had one from a Max spray on me, and I've changed a about ten of 'em.
12-28-2002, 11:55 AM
#27
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sigh, I always end up the one person in a thousand that gets sprayed with something or the other. I had just driven the car back from getting the filter, engine was hot. I still pulled the fuse and started it. After it died there was still pressure on the engine side no less! So after being sprayed directly in the face with hot gasoline, I crawled around until I found the hose because I sure as heck couldn't see it. I get alot of hell for my paranoia, but I've always got a reason.. lol
Originally posted by Matt93SE
bah... pansies!!!
just wrap the fuel filter in a rag and pull the hoses off. if you havent' started the car in a half hour or so, then nothing under the hood will be hot and the fuel pressure will be very low.
remove the hose clamps on the filter, then use some pliers to twist the hoses on the filter until they pop loose from the metal. when they spin freely, work them off by hand. before you get them off, stick a rag over the end of the filter that you're removing, and it'll soak up any gasoline that sprays. I've never had one from a Max spray on me, and I've changed a about ten of 'em.
bah... pansies!!!
just wrap the fuel filter in a rag and pull the hoses off. if you havent' started the car in a half hour or so, then nothing under the hood will be hot and the fuel pressure will be very low.
remove the hose clamps on the filter, then use some pliers to twist the hoses on the filter until they pop loose from the metal. when they spin freely, work them off by hand. before you get them off, stick a rag over the end of the filter that you're removing, and it'll soak up any gasoline that sprays. I've never had one from a Max spray on me, and I've changed a about ten of 'em.