my car is acting so stupid, i hate it. When I start the car it takes like 4 seconds of key turning for it to actually start then after it does and i put it in drive, the idle drops to like 300 and then back to 500 and keeps doin that. Then if I'm idle at say a stop light or stop sign, it honestly takes about 6-7 seconds for me to actually get going. After I take a turn, it does the same thing. The car does some moderate shaking/vibrating when idle. If i try to floor it, it seems like the car is about to stall and then eventually it gets the idea and SLOWLY picks up speed after say 10 seconds. Any ideas on what it could be? Thanks in advance.

 

Man when you find out what the problem is, please let me know. I have a 94 SE and its doing the same thing, with the exception of starting. It starts right up, but hesitates like crazy.

 

Test the MAFS.

 

i have a CAI. when i bought it from another member on the org, he didnt send me all 3 black couplings, only 1. so i bought some aluminum foil looking tube (used for laundry machines) and cut it so that it would secure the cai together. do you think there is a leak btwn there somewhere that could cause all this? how do you test the MAFS if what i just said has nothing to do with what you said? thanks again.

 

try checking the ECU codes. When I had the problem with my engine shutting down the ECU gave me a code for the Throttle position Sensor and it was right...Hope it works out for you!

 

What did you do to fix the throttle position sensor? Clean it or replace it? Where is the throttle position sensor? I'm going to search to find out how to check the ECU Codes.........

 

SOunds like the catalytic converter is backed up ..

 

All I did was clean the connectors on the TPS and it has worked fine since. The TPS is located on the right side of the throttle body connected to the throttle plate. Be sure you mark its position if you move it.

 

If the aluminum tubing you are speaking of is between the MAFS and the throttle body, then yes that very well could be the problem. Otherwise it wouldnt cause this (unless dirt got lodged in the MAFS)

To test the MAFS you will need a multi-meter and the resistance range for proper operation of the MAFS. I would suggest the FSM, or ask one of the guys who know it like Matt93SE or Craig.

The MAFS is just a hunch, it could be a hundred things. Back track from when this problem started and see if anything was messed with on the car, and go from there.