Provided by Kaleb

I was browsing the Nissan TSBS and found one about lack of engine power for the VE30DE. They tell you to perform a test with CONSULT to see if ignition timing is set to 3 degrees BTDC or less after 5 WOT acceleration runs, and if it is they say to install an Engine Sub-Harness at the Knock Sensor Sub-Harness Connector.
The part number on this engine sub-harness is 24020-7E060, it was released specifically for this problem, and the price is $34.84 for the 4DSC.com discount. You also need a tie-down clamp that's $0.71, P/N is 01552-00043.

They also recommend you VE folks use PREMIUM Unleaded fuel. I don't have the harness in stock so I don't know what it does, but I bet it might be some kinda resistance.
-=Kaleb=-

 

I bought one of these with the notion it would cure all my symptoms of 'heat soke' it still made a noticeable increase in power on 70+ days . probly enough to keep the average consumer happy .. tho my gas milage actully dropped ... its a 5 inch pair cable , looks like there some resister in the middle... But its rapped in tape, and for now i'm not about to fsck with it , spent 50 on it at a local dealer.. i guess all i can say when i have some time and money i'll be cleaning/replacing the Knock sensor along with the sub harness connectors. =\

 

I got one of these also for around $50 at a local dealer. My car had been hesitating intermittently for a long time and recently it has been stumbling all over itself when warm. And when not hesitating it was still suffering from some major power loss, especially when coming off the highway as some other people have stated. I put this in and spent a few days driving it around in near 100 degree sunny Texas heat. Not only did it not hesitate or stumble one time, if felt like it was 10 degrees out instead of 100. In short, the difference was amazing.

 

Does the harness referenced above get plugged in series with or in place of the knock sensor sub harness? Any pictures? Right now I have a 470 K ohm resistor plugged into the sub harness connector that goes to the ECU. Seems to work better now and I want to determine if I need to get the TSB sub harness mentioned above instead of my 99 cent resistor.

 

How do you know what engine code you have?

 

I picked mine up today. It is a short section of (2) wires with the male connector on 1 end, and the female on the other. It plugs in in-line between the KS side and the ECU side. It takes all of 5 seconds to do. I did it in the parking lot at the Nissan dealership today with the kid in her car seat. Seems to help a great deal.

Before this fix my car didn't exactly hesitate. It went great guns when cold, then as soon as it warmed up it had no power whatsoever. It felt almost like I had to put the gas pedal 3/4 of the way to the floor just to get any response at all.

Now, I have most of my power back. Butt-dyno says I have about 3/4 of my cold HP now when warm. And all for $50. Realistically, it probably IS just a resistor in line, but at $50 a pop, who's gonna tear it apart to find out?!

 

More info on the knock sensor and related stuff.
Basically it's a thread to say DO NOT use the Resistor mod that's so common.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=247543


for any other questions or posts about the knock sensor, resistor mod, or heat soak, please start a new thread and quote these as reference.