maddmax74

i've had a similar problem recently. i found that you can start the engine and unplug each ignition coil one at a time. while doing that you're checking to see if the rpm's lower. when the rpm's don't lower that's the coil(s) that defective. replace the coil(s). note: if the care dies while at idle there might be more that 1 coil defective, the ve engine can run on 5 cylinders but less it will die. now after doing all of that and you are still having problems , try changing the T.P.S. (THROTTLE POSITIONING SENSOR) \
GOOD LUCK ON YOUR MISSION

MightyMax13

I am also one to have this same problem on my 94SE. I don't know if this helps at all, but along with my stalling and rpm flux, my car jumps into 2nd gear and reverse. Also, these problems are causing my spark plugs to wear out MUCH faster than they should. Also, my car doesn't start right away after being off for over a few hours. This is unrelated to weather. My mechanic thought that these probs could somehow be related to the idle air control? Hope that maybe this info can help.

jwagen02

I just picked up my car from the mechanic, and he could not figure it out! There is another identical 92 SE that arrived a couple of days before mine, and it is having the same issues.

I have been searching/reading through some of the other posts and previous threads, and I am going to try some of the other suggestions. I can tell this is a common problem that does not have a common resolution. Some people have fixed this issue with new coils, others with the MAF, some O2 sensors, replacing corroded connectors, etc... This car seems to offer the same symptoms for several different problems...

To be continued...

jwagen02

I thought I would mention one other thing that might help find a resolution...

I have found that my Max will run fine on the highway IF I leave the O/D off. This does not work in town when the rpms are lower though. If I keep the rpms above 2800+, the engine does not cut out. I did take it on a 400 mile drive on the highway with the O/D off, and it did not cut out once on the highway... It still did on the off ramps occassionally, but never on the road.

Does that give anyone an idea? I'm not sure how wise it is to keep driving with the O/D off plus it hurts the gas mileage!!!

I'd be interested if anyone else having the same problems can try this and see if it works for them...

Thanks!

stevekwebb

Well, I've been through a tank of gas as of this morning - took me about a week, but every time the car freaked out at all, i'd pull over asap & let the vacuum off the tank. After doing so, it seemed to be ok.

There is naturally going to be a vacuum in the tank as the fuel level drops & there is nowhere to get air from because the cap is keeping a solid seal.

Even though the car hasn't been acting up nearly as much as it used to (noise through the speakers & nearly violent power drops), I think that what I have been doing is making somewhat of a difference. This would mean that maybe the fuel pump is having a problem drawing the fuel from the tank with the vacuum in place. I'll keep trying it for a couple of weeks - maybe get a gas cap with a venting valve built into it. I'll let y'all know.

Smoking Furnace

I am the original owner of a 92 SE. My car began having this problem last year around August . However , I was not driving the car full time as I am now. Eleven days ago the problem began again. This past Saturday 04-05-03 the battery died. The battery was at least 6 years old. I put in a new battery and have not seen the problem for 2 days.

jwagen02

I finally figured out the problem with my 92 SE... I finally found some used ignition coils and started swapping them out one at a time until I found the bad one. So after 4 weeks of , I have a car that runs great... all the time! A couple of days ago I called the mechanic that tried to fix my car and another 92 SE with the same exact problem. He figured out that car also had a/some bad coils, so they replaced all of them and the plugs for a mere $900! He said that the bad coil(s) was sending a surge to the ECU causing the ECU to shut down momentarily. Replacing the coils seemed to fix that guy's problem. I fixed my Max for $75 for the two used coils. I'll probably replace them all with new eventually...

Thanks to everyone that offered help!!!

airforcerob

HI, 92 Max SE, 5 spd, 146k miles
I have a similar problem: sometimes at freeway speeds the car shuts off--RPM to 0. then I can pop the clutch and it starts up.
other problem that may or may not be related: a hissing sound coming from near the throttle body as I move it to simulate acceleration.
ANOTHER PROBLEM that may or may not be related: car is slow through gears--the power isn't there going from 0 to first gear and first to second.

what i have done:
check vacuum system: pulls 30 pounds of vacuum, after replacing worn and cracked hoses.
replaced EGR valve
replaced spark plugs w/ NGK platinum
no codes in computer

suspected: ignition power control module (the one next to the crank angle sensor). this is the primary ignition signal; if it goes out, the car would have problems like turning off.
cost: $150-200. i don't know how to check the module to see if it is bad...no resistance parameters in my book.
ANY SUGGESTIONS? PLEASE EMAIL ME!
THANKS
ROB

gattonero

Don't waste your money on the computer check. It won't show any code. I got the same problem and still struggling with it. Dealer mechanic failed to fix it... suckers.
Got my injectors cleaned and replaced spark plugs. Didn't help much, however it doesn't stall when idle as it used to. I'm gonna get coilpacks (front and rear - one of each) and replace them one by one till I spot the faulty one. I'll let U know if it helps.
If anyone knows cure for this problem, please, share.

Bluemax92

i had this same problem on my 92 se auto. One of the family friends owns a junkyard and i had read about the maf so i went bought one off a ve max for 50 bucks, took it home and put it on. It was actually some kind of aftermarket model, not high performance or anything but just some kind of off-brand. i stuck it on and it hasn't so much as hickuped since. just telling you all my experience

Cos

Right folks,

This will bake your noodle because I have spent the weekend trying to fix my dad's 93 Max SE. It is the model with the HT leads and therefore it does not have coil packs.

I have read through this thread several times amoungst other threads to do with the same problem but from what I can gather, there are a few people posting problems on this thread that are having slightly different symptoms, but could be resolved by the same fix.

Nevertheless, before I started doing any diagnostics on the ECU, I made sure that the leads sat in the distributor well and sprayed a bit of WD40 to make sure that there was no damp. Ensured that the leads were sat well on the sparks and checked that all other connections were ok. It has had new sparks, HT leads, fuel filter, and oil and filter.

After the initial checks, I check the ECU and got the following sequence which I could not understand because the instructions did not allow for this code. Maybe someone here has also come across this. The first 2 numbers that came up were 1 and then 2. These were quick flashes. The following numbers that came up were 3, 4 then 5. These were slow flashes. I couldn't work out whether this meant 0102 and 0345, or 1203 and 0405 or 1234 with 5 being the end of code indicator. I was a bit baffled to say the least. I don't have the list to hand now but one of the codes said that there was something wrong with a clutch solenoid. I found this a bit hard to beilieve as the car is an auto.

I then started the car from cold and on tick over it was very lumpy. If I touched the gas gentle, the revs would rise but would be very unstable. If I reved it hard, they would rise quicked but you could hear and feel the missing. I reversed it out of the drive and when I put it in "Drive" and put my foot on the gas, I could hear some missing/back firing but once the revs rose slightly, it went ok. It just seemed like there was a problem with the initial take off. I have put 2 loads of injector cleaner through it and have been using 98RON fuel. I refuse to believe that there is anything wrong with the MAFS s this would normally show different symtoms such as the cant get over 2K-2.5K rev. I cant see how a dodgy spark plug would give this kind of symptom, and the same with the distributor cap or coil. I have had problems with the above 3 on a couple of other cars and the symptoms have not been the same.

Once over 2K revs, the car seems to drive ok but its as if there is something wrong with the timing. The next thing I was going to try was to remove the O2 connector but I ran out of time.

However, one thing that I have noticed a couple of people say is that they have changed the ECCS relay but as there is no UK Haynes manual so I have been struggling a little bit whilst working on the car. Therefore, can someone tell what it is and where it can be found please.

Also, is there anyone on this forum with a Maxima of the same generation that is based in the UK, preferably in the midlands, and also if anyone knows if there any specialists for this motor in the UK, again near the midlands. Please don't say Nissan because they couldn't diagnose a cold if someone sneezed in their face! No-offence to any Nissan techies on the forum.


Cheers
Cos

Cos

Come on guys, surely someone out there is going or has gone through this.

Ok, well then, please just answer me this then, why would a faulty Knock sensor cause back firing/hesitation? Is it becauseit can not acurately gauge the signals coming from the engine and is sending spurious signals to the ECU, hence causing the timing to be constantly adjusting? I have never come across a problem like this before.

Also, I'd like to have a little dig at Nissan here because they obviously didn't want certain Maxima owners to be able to easily clean thier TB's. After I realized that half the manifold had to be removed I decided against it.

There you go, moan over.

blackonblack

Your car will still run... It will run very very rough... Your RPMs on idle will be above 1.5... Your car will burn a lot of gas... I don't advise you disconnect your MAFS. Get a rebuilt one... It shouldn't cost you more than $200.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

for pricing on the MAF and a whole lot more go
http://www.classiccarsprings.com/maxima/3rdgen.html
Also in my sig

Goodbar6

Heh,
my 1990 SE 5 speed is doing this now. I am going to get a rebuilt mafs this weekend and try that. My buddies 99 escort ZX2 was doing the same thing, and after he replaced the MAFs, and his plug wires it went away. Ill let you all know how it goes when i do it.
Tyler

pete90MAX

I had a similar problem with my 90 5spd when it was only a couple years old. The dealer replaced the O2 sensor and it has been running well ever since. They told me that if the car had an auto tranny I mostly likely wouldn't have been able to drive to the shop.
Just a thought!

Pete

ALLTECHCOURIER

i need help with my 92 max se,drives good sometimes and other times it shuts off, rpm flies up and down then shuts off. please call me with a solution 16467725567. or my only alternative is to sell it for cheap 1,750.00 i only have 88k miles.i'm from NYC