jwagen02

I just registered for this website, and I have a question already! I tried to perform a search, but it seems that I cannot search the archives. I apologize if this is a repeat...

I just bought a 1992 Nissan Maxima SE. The car is stock and in great shape for being 11 years old!!! Here's the problem I am having...

The car intermittently loses power and occasionally dies. I can be on the highway, and the engine starts to cut out off and on for about 30 seconds. Then it will run fine again for 5 to 20 minutes. Then the problem starts again. It will also lose power in town and sometimes die if I am at a stop light.

While on the road, I have tried to put it in Neutral and rev the engine, but the engine still cuts out. Then all of a sudden the engine runs fine and accelerates normally.

I have tried a couple of basic things like changing the Air and Fuel Filters, mostly because they needed changed. I also put fuel system cleaner in my tank the last two times and used premium fuel, and it seems to have slightly relieved the problems.

I have seen several posts about the MAF sensor... Is that a common problem on these?

Also, my tach occassionally stops working or erratically jumps back and forth. Is there a common place these cars have a short?

Thanks for any help! I look forward to using this site as a great resource!!!

Jeff

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Try inspecting the plug that leads to the MAF sensor. The thing that the airbox attaches too. If the connector is loose or corrorded, it might make the condition you describe.

It also could be a maf hot wire sensor that is coated w/ oil/gunk. You can CAREFULLY try to clean the hot wire element w/ some rubbing alcohol(sp).

jowing

I am having a similar problem, I have posted my question a few days ago. My 92 SE also hesitates when accerlerating and sometimes dies out, it dies out at a stop and at idling when I am warming up in the morning. I tried new plugs, check the ignition coils for cracks, new fuel filter, cleaning out throttle body and adding fuel cleaner to it and it still happens. Someone mention MAF so I check it connection look good. I don't know if the EGR valve or the PCV could be the cause of it, I am going to try that next. I hope I can find it and pass along to you or maybe you can pass it along to me. I am very frustrated with this problem. As for the SEARCH button, I tried that and it does not work for me either.

Good luck!
Joe

Menel

Mine will hesitate sometimes when accelerating or even just crusing power will cut out..but if i take my foot of the gas for a few seconds and then reapply it will be fine for a long time.

I was gonna replace MAF sensor this coming weekend but then i looked up the price on autozone website $422!!! thats insane. or are there better places to get parts for the max?

Maximan190

iTrader: (8)

subs1000w

i also suffer from this problem but dont think its the actual maf sensor but the connection so this week im going to take my maf apart and solder wire directly to it and then cut off the plug and solder the wires to the car wires kinda hard to understand but if it works i will post in more detail later this week my friend whos an auto student also metioned the tps but i will try this first

TLM

How would someone go about inspecting it? What would I be looking for? How would I carefully clean it (like what am I supposed to avoid touching with the alcohol?)
Thanks

drstillpatient

iTrader: (2)

Couldnt it be those ignition coils going bad?? I know some 92-94 SE owners were having the hesitation problem and replacing the ignition coils fixed it for good.

But this is a costly fix i hear so check out the other stuff like the PCV valve etc first to be sure

TLM

Do you have any tips for getting the PCV Valve hose off? It's in such an odd area on the engine, I'm not even sure how to go about it.

Gjohnson

iTrader: (1)

Man if ANYONE finds a solution to this, post it and PM me. I need this crap fixed. My Max has been tripping for 4 months now and I don't know what to do. I've cleaned the throttle body, replaced spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter, pcv valve, tps sensor and just recently knock sensor. $hit, does anyone want my car????

jwagen02

If it would help, I noticed last night that the "Power" light came on and flashed when the engine was cutting out. Does that shed any light? I tried all three settings on the A/T Switch, but it didn't make a difference.

I took the MAF sensor off last night, and it looked clean. I also checked the contacts, and they seemed fine. I cleaned the harness contacts and put it back in, but it didn't help.

Would it be wise to disconnect the MAF and drive it for a short test run to see if it still cuts out? I'm not sure if this is a wise move, but I wondered if I could tell that way.

For those of you with the same problem, have you had the computer checked for error codes at a dealership? I hate to spend $65 just to have them hook it up if I don't have to.

subs1000w

your car wont start with the maf discounected

drstillpatient

iTrader: (2)

Bro...i am a VG owner and i hear the PCV valve location is different on the VG engine than the VE...(someone correct me if I'm wrong)

I know Craig Brace just posted close up pics of the PCV valve and some description on how to take it off...maybe if you PMed him he'd send you the link.

sorry couldnt help much.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Yes it will

drstillpatient

iTrader: (2)

well if u havent tried replacing the ignition coils u might as well do that then....like i said earlier...some people have found this to be the cure for this problem. good luck

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

So he should just shell out $50 x 6 coils just on the hunch it will fix the problem?

dnas420

check your fuel injectors and the boots around them , they may be cracked or clogged.

Gjohnson

iTrader: (1)

Yea, this is like telling Saddam to disarm, I don't know how. I'm not that skilled yet. But I guess you have to crawl before you can walk, I'm working on it.

But, I'm trying to locate a service manual for my ride.

Also, last I heard people were shelling out around $600 for new coils. I'm trying to tag a 2003 Trailblazer I bought 4 weeks ago and my money tree dried up last month, so I need to know for sure it will fix my problems and then I still will have to wait till I can save up the money. Thanks for the input though, every little bit helps.

TLM

I have the exact same problem as this guy. The shop cleaned my fuel injectors. It didn't help with the hard shifting, but it didn't stall out for a few months. Now it's back.

A92se?

I had the injectors cleaned and replaced the plugs and the stalling dying out went away for about two months then came back. It turns out I had ONE bad ignition coil. The only reason I knew it was one and not all six was b/c a have a friend that was able to switch parts out with me until we isolated the problem. So I ended up only buying one coil from Richardson Nissan in TX for $70 instead of 6 from my local Nissan. Find a friend with good parts and switch em out. Or go to the salvage yard and get some parts (with warranties). After five months of jerking and stalling up and down the street one coil fixed it for me. Good luck folks!

jwagen02

That sounds like a good idea. I'm going to look in the Chilton's book for a way to test the Ignition Coils. I may go and get one from a salvage yard also unless one of you lives in Indiana...

I did replace the PCV Valve this afternoon, but it didn't help. I didn't think it would, but for $3 it was worth a shot! Interesting note though... I went to two different auto parts stores, and the PCV Valve they had listed for the 1992 DOHC was different than the one I pulled out of my car. The first place (Advance Auto) gave me one that had a much larger end for the hose. We double checked it in the computer, and it was the "right" part number. I then went to a second place (Auto Zone) and they gave me a PLASTIC PCV Valve with NO THREADS! Once again we double checked the part number in their computer and it was the "right" part number. Just in case, I went back and found one that "looked" right. Neither one of the "right" parts fit correctly, but the one that "looked" right worked.

Has anyone else has this experience with PCV Valves or other parts???

Gjohnson

iTrader: (1)

Thats what I had to do also. Pep boys didn't have the right PCV valve for me, so I just eyeballed it. And if fit. Hope it doesn't hurt anything.

94MAXGXE

Jeff,
If the tac/speedo jump at the same time as the engine cutout,
sounds to me like you have an electrical problem.
The tac/speedo gets signal from the VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR through the ECM {engine control module}.
The power light for the tranny IS trying to tell you somthing also.
Probably that the tranny control module has lost communication with the ECU. {ECU just to the right of the gas pedal bottom unit. Tranny control top unit}

Here is what I suggest you check.
Ground wires. There are many wires bolted to the engine and body of these cars. Inspect all that you can find for broken or corrroded connections.
Battery posts clean and tight?
Battery has two wires from the + post. The big one is for the starter, the smaller one is for the ECM and other things.
With the engine running, wiggle that smaller wire. If the engine stumbles/quits or the wire breaks off, fix it.
Wire is OK? then open the fuseable link box just to the right of the battery. The first relay is the ECM power relay. GENTLY tap on it with the handle end of a small screwdriver. Any change?
There are other realys that could cause this kind of cut out.
One is the ignition control relay. Small relay box over by the power steering fluid, second one back.
There are so many relays on these cars it's not funny. There are even relays in the trunk. {fuel pump for one}

Other things to consider. Vacume leak that could interfere with the fuel pressure regulator. Fuel pressure reg has a vac line going to it to control fuel pressure. Less vacume = more fuel pressure.

If I were you, I would be doing a lot of looking, taping on, wiggling connectors and listening for things like vacume leaks before buying any expensive stuff like a MAF sensor assembly.

Don't break anything.........
Take Care....
Jim

TLM

How can someone find out if they definitely have a vaccum leak?

drstillpatient

iTrader: (2)

ummmmmmmmm...YEAH!

since his car is 11 years old he might as well change the coils too since they would eventually go bad anyway if they are the original ones.

Ofcourse testing the coils and locating and relacing ONE or TWO bad ones would work too...

like i had said in my previous post
"But this is a costly fix i hear so check out the other stuff like the PCV valve etc first to be sure"

recently my friend with a VE got rid of his stalling issues after he changed two coils.

Gjohnson

iTrader: (1)

I don't know about Jeff, but when my tac is jumping erratically (like it possessed) the car doen't know what to do and it trying to take off and downshift and everything. And yes, thats when it cuts off. Or sometimes if I'm at a stoplights and try to get on it when the light turns green, as soon as the pedal hits the floor it just dies. If this is electrical problems, I wouldn't be suprised. Right now I'm also trying to find a short or something that keep blowing fuses in my tailights. What do you think????

cneary812

Do you have your VTC's grounded? I had mine grounded for a month and my car went nuts. I recently took off the ground and it now idles smooth. A month of clean oil seemed to quiet my ticking. But anyway, if you do disconnect the ground.

Gjohnson

iTrader: (1)

No I don't have my VTC's grounded. At least not that I know of.

blackonblack

Jeff take it from me... If the search was working you'll see me all over this topic. back in october my 89 was dying! Not to bore you with the details, I replaced my MAFS for $80 buck (they typically go for $180 after the trade in) and The Max has not stalled again... going on what? 6 months. IN my case The MAFS was corroded in side... Do not try to cheap out by trying to clean the inside of it, for its wiring is soldered and the reattaching is IRREVERSIBLE. At first you might get a bad rebuilt MAFS, just try again. Dont waste your money on distributor caps, wires, rotor... and what not. Go straight for the MAFS.

jwagen02

What if I unplug my MAF and drive the car to see if the same result happens? Will that cause any damage to my car? A new MAF is $400!!! I may end up breaking down and taking it to a dealer so I can pay an arm and a leg for a diagnosis. They should sell health insurance for cars!!!

I want to try disconnecting the MAF, but I don't want to cause any damage... Anyone know if this will hurt for a short 10 minute drive?

I also ran the diagnostic check on the ECU, but it gave the code for "No Malfunctions."

I wiggled, nudged and tapped nearly everything on the engine I could think of, but the engine didn't miss a beat. Hmmmm....

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

carpart.com

used mafs should be very cheap

stevekwebb

Man... All this really hits home.

I've been struggling with what seems to be the exact same problem for a couple of years now. It all started out pretty small - every once in a while, it would almost stall & hitting the gas would only make it kill the engine. If you let it go into cralw/haul mode (idle w/clutch in), the computer system getting rotten feedback from sensors will reset itself. If you mash the gas, it'll die.

My problem has gotten a little more serious over the last 6 months. Currently I'm experiencing it sometimes as much as 10-15 times a day. Used to be once a week or so.

I'm getting some "crackling" sound coming through the sound system - the pitch, frequency & volume do not change with RPMs or stereo settings. When I hear a lot of crackling, the car is more likely to fault out. When it happens, the lack of fuel is so sudden, it's almost like I tapped the brakes - no matter how hard I mash the gas, it won't go above 2K RPM - when I let off the gas, it drops to 200-500 RPM for a few seconds & then levels out & it's ok again. I've been struggling to find SOME cause for it, but no luck so far.

I'm almost certain that one of my Variable Timing Solenoids is faulty - I'm getting a clack-clack-clack, etc... noise on the front cover - not a huge deal unless that's what's faulting out the computer system & making it reset.

I've replaced the MAF sensor with another one (used but newer than mine) & it seemed to make a difference for a month or so. Then it got worse again.

If I don't figure this out soon, I'm gonna drive it into a river...

Any suggestions or input would be appreciated more than you could possibly believe.

tmuscedere

Have you guys checked your fuel pressure at the engine?

Gjohnson

iTrader: (1)

How do you do this???

max4me

I have a used one off a '91 gxe. Not sure if it is the same as the se but whoever wants it can have it for $65 shipped. PM me with an e-mail addy if interested and would like to see pics.

jowing

I have try a new fuel regulator, same problem hesitating, stalling while idling. I have 4 more things I like to try, MAF, ignition coils, knock sensor, and the O2 sensor. Anyone figure this problem yet? I am running out of money. HELP There is too many of us with this problem, we need to find a solution!

tmuscedere

To Check the fuel pressure, you disconnect the fuel supply line from the fuel pressure regulator and connect the gauge to the flex hose.

jowing

When you replaced the MAF, did it actually corrected the problem? I am going to try that also. Could your second MAF is going bad or you think it is something else? What could it be? I like to solve this problem to before I drive this car into the ocean!!!

stevekwebb

When I swapped out the MAF, it seemed to do better for a month or so, but then it gradually for worse within a couple of months until it's way past where it was to begin with.

New development! I've noticed that if I keep the gas tank over 1/2 full, then it rarely cuts out. This would lead me to believe that there may be too much of a vacuum in the tank caused by an old charcoal canister ($100 wholesale) OR a fuel pump that just can't handle the strain of sucking the fuel from a tank that already has a vacuum in it.

For the next few weeks, I'm going to be testing this out. I'll let my gas level run low & when it sputters out, i'll pull over & release the vacuum pressure from the tank by momentarily opening the fuel cap. I'm down to half a tank right now & it just did it last night on the way home from work. I pulled over & let the vacuum off & it seems to be doing ok so far. I'll let you all know how it goes.

max4me

Is there not suppose to be pressure (not a vaccum) in the gas tank?