Howdy folks,

I knew I had an exhaust leak on the rear bank, closest to the windshield for about a month now. I could hear it when I idled up between say 1-1.8k rpm. It would go away once car reached normal operating temp. Last couple of days the leak sound changed from a medium high pitch fluctuating hiss to a lower pitched popping type sound. Also the car would idle much worse since the change in sound of the exhuast leak, within that same rpm range, but would still smooth out once car warmmed up fully. Upon inspection, I noticed what appeared to be a loose nut on the stud nearest the oil filter, the one on the end. I thought I'd check to see if it was just loose. While praying I turned it easily with a wrench a 1/4 turn and then another 1/4 turn and it came loose in my hand! It had been haning on by a thread but just came off. Whats left of the bolt is almost an inch long from the end to the broken end.


My question is, does the sound change in the leak correspond to a worsening leak, and is my suspician correct that this is directly related to the rough idle? Can an exhaust leak cause the engine to idle rough like that?


Next question is, for anyone who has paid the dealer to do it how much did it cost you, and secondly if you had it done somewhere else was it cheaper?

If anyone has done this themselves on the rear bank, how hard is it on a 1-10 scale, if the timing belt was considered an 8 for me, having recently done it? Can you point me to a link that specifically details the repair of the stud on that rear bank?

Also as with the timing belt, is there anything else I should go ahead and have done, while I would be paying for the labor to have the broken stud repaired?

Sorry for the long post, just trying to be thurough. Thanks in advance, I look forward to the suggestions and answers.

Steve

 

Bumb deal man. I will have to be redoing my exhaust studs perhaps this summer. Most of the info I have read is that it is darn near impossible without taking the engine out of the bay. I think I remember someone saying it is a little easier if you undue the rear engine mount (if you don't take the engine out) or something but not sure. As far as cost go, it's gonna be a bunch of cash so be prepared to break the piggy bank. I think if a dealer does it it can cost up to and over a thousand bucks.

There a lot of guys on here who should be able to fill you in the details. I'm interested myself.

 

You would need to get the car up on a 4-post lift and have air tools to really get it done yourself if you don't take the engine out, which is a PITA as well.
I paid my mechanic to do all 12 studs (Which I bought myself from Courtesy Nissan) and it cost me about $550 for labor, plus $82 for parts, which was a lot less then I expected...
The rear studs aren't as much of a biotch as the front ones, but it's not an easy job at all. It is NOT one that can be done on a creeper with the car on jacks
Also, if you're going to do the rear bank, do them all at once, because the front ones are going to go as well, and it's better to pay $600 once then $500 twice

 

From my experience, as the leak gets worse the sound gets louder and lasts longer.

I finally broke down and got my studs done last week. Now no more screeching sound!

I started off at the nissan dealer who quoted $450 for the rear bank, since I already had the parts. Well, they kept it a day then called and said "oh by the way we need a new exhaust manifold ~$250 and a head pipe ~$300 so just say yes and we'll get those ordered."

So. I said F* you guys, and I'll take my parts elsewhere. After another 6 weeks of hearing it, I stopped on impulse at an independent shop who had a pretty good reputation around here. They quoted $260 and it ended up being $245. I still have a hissing leak, but at least it's not coming from the manifold.

 

I wish I could find someone in my area! Anyone know of a decent shop in Western Massachusetts? 245 is an awesome deal!
Thanks for the info!