Bored out the TB (pics)
#1
Bored out the TB (pics)
I made the resolution too small, o well.
I quickly looked at them side by side and it was pretty incredible. I used a really aggresive bit for the drill to remove the bulk material. then I used the dremil and a Silicon Carbide wheel, note that you will need a very hard dressing wheel to clean the aluminum out of the silicon carbide wheel. Also I dont reccomend using an aluminum oxide wheel, it will get clogged up real fast, and is just a waste of time. For final sanding I used some emmery cloth and made my own sanding wheel with it to be used with my drill.
BrianH, reported a gain of something like 12hp or more, which I found kinda high. But I do think the gain is noticeable, and a worthy mod.
Also note that the bore that I made is tappered and not straight through, this is the velocity stack 'accelerating' action that is already apart of the OEM design, boring it out makes it much more aggressive.
I have an extra TB for sale, its for a VE auto and in MINT condition.
#2
Re: Bored out the TB (pics)
Yeah, I found 12Hp to be a little high also. I do seriously think I shaved off a tenth in the 1/4. Here are my pics:
http://www16.brinkster.com/ajkimball/TBpage.htm
Eric, I found those little sand paper roll cartridges to work the best. And to finish it up, I used a polish wheel. All this was done on an industrial strength electric die grinder. Very nice!
http://www16.brinkster.com/ajkimball/TBpage.htm
Eric, I found those little sand paper roll cartridges to work the best. And to finish it up, I used a polish wheel. All this was done on an industrial strength electric die grinder. Very nice!
#4
Re: Re: Re: Bored out the TB (pics)
Originally posted by Sudesh
You didn't open up the back of the TB? Just the front?
You didn't open up the back of the TB? Just the front?
#6
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Bored out the TB (pics)
Originally posted by Sudesh
Any of you guys know what's the stock size of the TB?
aron, nice work.
Any of you guys know what's the stock size of the TB?
aron, nice work.
#8
Originally posted by Maximajism94se
man...i gotta do this...good stuff...im kinda a lil 2 worried about getting stuff down the intake... and im 2 lazy right now 2 take it off...man thats a pain
man...i gotta do this...good stuff...im kinda a lil 2 worried about getting stuff down the intake... and im 2 lazy right now 2 take it off...man thats a pain
Then, remove the towels. That's it. It's not that hard. The matching was the easiest part of the entire porting project. It took me 20 minutes, where as the TB porting took 3-5 hours.
#9
I was going to open it up alittle with the dremel. But we were changing the knock sensor anyways so i just took my intake manifold and plenum and TB to a machine shop.
They're bout done with the TB. They're opening it up to 71mm all the way through. New plate an all.
They're bout done with the TB. They're opening it up to 71mm all the way through. New plate an all.
#10
None of you changed out your butterfly valve? if you ported out the whole VB and changed out your butterfly for a bigger one then you would probably get better results i think. i am going to do that with my VG VB. make the whole VB the same port size and then you wouldnt have the bottle neck problem. if you know what i mean. just a suggestion.. i havent done mine yet but i will let you know how it goes when i am done.
#11
Originally posted by Turbo91max
None of you changed out your butterfly valve? if you ported out the whole VB and changed out your butterfly for a bigger one then you would probably get better results i think. i am going to do that with my VG VB. make the whole VB the same port size and then you wouldnt have the bottle neck problem. if you know what i mean. just a suggestion.. i havent done mine yet but i will let you know how it goes when i am done.
None of you changed out your butterfly valve? if you ported out the whole VB and changed out your butterfly for a bigger one then you would probably get better results i think. i am going to do that with my VG VB. make the whole VB the same port size and then you wouldnt have the bottle neck problem. if you know what i mean. just a suggestion.. i havent done mine yet but i will let you know how it goes when i am done.
It's only a theory and I haven't seen it proven yet.
#13
Well their doing my TB, Plenum and Intake manifold.
Their boring my TB to 73mm, port matching my Plenum, opening up my plenum and smoothing it out, and opening up my manifold and were going to open up the heads on the car. They're also pluggin my EGR valve and taking it out.
Dont' know an actual price yet but it should come out to around 200 bucks. Probably more though.
Their boring my TB to 73mm, port matching my Plenum, opening up my plenum and smoothing it out, and opening up my manifold and were going to open up the heads on the car. They're also pluggin my EGR valve and taking it out.
Dont' know an actual price yet but it should come out to around 200 bucks. Probably more though.
#14
Originally posted by Sith
Well their doing my TB, Plenum and Intake manifold.
Their boring my TB to 73mm, port matching my Plenum, opening up my plenum and smoothing it out, and opening up my manifold and were going to open up the heads on the car. They're also pluggin my EGR valve and taking it out.
Dont' know an actual price yet but it should come out to around 200 bucks. Probably more though.
Well their doing my TB, Plenum and Intake manifold.
Their boring my TB to 73mm, port matching my Plenum, opening up my plenum and smoothing it out, and opening up my manifold and were going to open up the heads on the car. They're also pluggin my EGR valve and taking it out.
Dont' know an actual price yet but it should come out to around 200 bucks. Probably more though.
I'm doing the EGR block before I go to the track again this Friday.
#16
Originally posted by eric93SE
'don in texas' did a complete port and polish, and only gained 1 ft.lb of tq . So its not worth the money, he removed something like a couple pounds of materials!
'don in texas' did a complete port and polish, and only gained 1 ft.lb of tq . So its not worth the money, he removed something like a couple pounds of materials!
BTW, what happened to the other thread we were talking in. I think it was "Got my car weighed at the track" or soemthing like that. Did you delete it?
While I am typing here, your VE Auto at the track is VERY prone to heat soak. In my car, I was able to shave off 6 tenths just by letting it cool down for 30-60 minutes. Don't run your car until you see the temp needle near the "C". Then, don't let it warm up when you are staging. You want the needle about a 1/4 way up the temp guage when you are launching it.
Also, my ram air setup for the track got rid of almost ALL heat soak. I was able to shave off 5 tenths (when warm) with that setup. I could run low 14.90's by hot lapping with the ram air. And then I let it cool for 30 minutes and ran a 14.83.
Are you letting your VE cool down? Or are you hot lapping with your POP Charger? I gotta go, I won't be able to check this thread again until late late tonight.
#17
Originally posted by eric93SE
'don in texas' did a complete port and polish, and only gained 1 ft.lb of tq . So its not worth the money, he removed something like a couple pounds of materials!
'don in texas' did a complete port and polish, and only gained 1 ft.lb of tq . So its not worth the money, he removed something like a couple pounds of materials!
If I recall correctly he did a complete extrude hone job on the stock exhaust manifolds and got that result
#18
im getting my heads done too. but i am replacing my stock valves with bigger valves. and i am going to bore out my TB and try my best to bore out my intake manifold. Middle part and bottom. i cant really do anything with the top of the intake manifold. ... the VE and VG TBs are different. you have a single butterfly and the VG has two. i have a VG so i am going to bore it out and replace the butterflys. i think that will help more.
#19
Originally posted by Aaron92SE
I think you are talking about a port and polish of the VQ heads. I am only talking about getting the intake manifold and TB to flow a little better.
BTW, what happened to the other thread we were talking in. I think it was "Got my car weighed at the track" or soemthing like that. Did you delete it?
While I am typing here, your VE Auto at the track is VERY prone to heat soak. In my car, I was able to shave off 6 tenths just by letting it cool down for 30-60 minutes. Don't run your car until you see the temp needle near the "C". Then, don't let it warm up when you are staging. You want the needle about a 1/4 way up the temp guage when you are launching it.
Also, my ram air setup for the track got rid of almost ALL heat soak. I was able to shave off 5 tenths (when warm) with that setup. I could run low 14.90's by hot lapping with the ram air. And then I let it cool for 30 minutes and ran a 14.83.
Are you letting your VE cool down? Or are you hot lapping with your POP Charger? I gotta go, I won't be able to check this thread again until late late tonight.
I think you are talking about a port and polish of the VQ heads. I am only talking about getting the intake manifold and TB to flow a little better.
BTW, what happened to the other thread we were talking in. I think it was "Got my car weighed at the track" or soemthing like that. Did you delete it?
While I am typing here, your VE Auto at the track is VERY prone to heat soak. In my car, I was able to shave off 6 tenths just by letting it cool down for 30-60 minutes. Don't run your car until you see the temp needle near the "C". Then, don't let it warm up when you are staging. You want the needle about a 1/4 way up the temp guage when you are launching it.
Also, my ram air setup for the track got rid of almost ALL heat soak. I was able to shave off 5 tenths (when warm) with that setup. I could run low 14.90's by hot lapping with the ram air. And then I let it cool for 30 minutes and ran a 14.83.
Are you letting your VE cool down? Or are you hot lapping with your POP Charger? I gotta go, I won't be able to check this thread again until late late tonight.
Yes, I'm hot lapping with a pop charger, I dont believe in letting the car cool down b/c its not realistic.
I'll consider a ram air setup, but it'll have to be more stealth than your setup (air filter sticking through headlamp?).
#21
Well our original plan was to pull EVERYTHING off and go through it all. Replacing the valve spring with SR20DE (or similar) springs that would raise the rev. limit and create more power. All of it is going onto a flow bench to see how much we've gained in flow. But i didn't wanna pull the heads off because of the timing chain which is complicated as hell. I wanted to rebuild my VTC's but i don't wanna mess with the timing. A Nissan tech told my machine guy that the engine has to be out of the car to take the heads off. I dunno i didn't wanna argue so i just said lets do the manifold then forget the heads.
But yeah he's opening the entire Intake Manifold and Plenum, and boring the TB.
And were gunna open the Intake just alittle hair on the heads while their on the car.
I have pictures of everything off the car and on just nowhere to host them. Also have pictures of my Trusty WSP Y-pipe with a faulty Flex Section!!!!
But yeah he's opening the entire Intake Manifold and Plenum, and boring the TB.
And were gunna open the Intake just alittle hair on the heads while their on the car.
I have pictures of everything off the car and on just nowhere to host them. Also have pictures of my Trusty WSP Y-pipe with a faulty Flex Section!!!!
#22
Originally posted by Lordrandall
I think there was a guy who had the whole TB bored out, and a bigger butterfly valve put in...
Oldman was his name, I think.
I think there was a guy who had the whole TB bored out, and a bigger butterfly valve put in...
Oldman was his name, I think.
#24
Originally posted by Sith
Well our original plan was to pull EVERYTHING off and go through it all. Replacing the valve spring with SR20DE (or similar) springs that would raise the rev. limit and create more power. All of it is going onto a flow bench to see how much we've gained in flow. But i didn't wanna pull the heads off because of the timing chain which is complicated as hell. I wanted to rebuild my VTC's but i don't wanna mess with the timing. A Nissan tech told my machine guy that the engine has to be out of the car to take the heads off. I dunno i didn't wanna argue so i just said lets do the manifold then forget the heads.
But yeah he's opening the entire Intake Manifold and Plenum, and boring the TB.
And were gunna open the Intake just alittle hair on the heads while their on the car.
I have pictures of everything off the car and on just nowhere to host them. Also have pictures of my Trusty WSP Y-pipe with a faulty Flex Section!!!!
Well our original plan was to pull EVERYTHING off and go through it all. Replacing the valve spring with SR20DE (or similar) springs that would raise the rev. limit and create more power. All of it is going onto a flow bench to see how much we've gained in flow. But i didn't wanna pull the heads off because of the timing chain which is complicated as hell. I wanted to rebuild my VTC's but i don't wanna mess with the timing. A Nissan tech told my machine guy that the engine has to be out of the car to take the heads off. I dunno i didn't wanna argue so i just said lets do the manifold then forget the heads.
But yeah he's opening the entire Intake Manifold and Plenum, and boring the TB.
And were gunna open the Intake just alittle hair on the heads while their on the car.
I have pictures of everything off the car and on just nowhere to host them. Also have pictures of my Trusty WSP Y-pipe with a faulty Flex Section!!!!
Also what mods do you have?
Altitude corrected your time is 14.5
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