Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

You guys get pinging at WOT & 3,300rpm? I get it. I think my timing is near stock now. Damn needle bounces all over the place(you guys get that?) I'm on 91 octane. I wonder if the JWT is calibrated for 92-93?

Anyone try some octane boost with this ecu?

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

I also think that this engine w/ 100k miles on it might have some carbon buildup. If so that carbon might be:
1) upping the compression to make it ping
2) creating a hotspot in there that pre-ignites and causes some ping.

I'll consider using the "feeding water in the manifold" trick to try to clean the combustion chambers out.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Hmm..

I was always under the impression you need to use 93 octane with the JWT

eric93SE

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like you havem mice in you engine......Time to call an exterminator.

I hear using "cool aid" (suger free, and cherry flavored) works wonders on intake carbon deposits.

phast92se

ummmm thats somethin i've never heard before... i hope you are just playin

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Yes, Eric is the comedian

Also, I'm gonna pull well over 300 miles on this tank(not even the low light on yet). Same driving and w/o the ecu, I usually got 270-290-ish miles(and put 14.5-15 gal in)

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

I heard that removing the upper and lower intake to port them fully helps remove carbon build up. And also, cleaning the exposed intake ports on the head by hand helps a lot too. LOL That's a little something I did this week. Muwahahaha! VE POWAH!!

eric93SE

iTrader: (1)

Jeff, check the EGR valve and make sure its operting. Also check that all the vacuum (supplying the EGR) lines are in good condition and grasp their nipple tightly (hehe). You can also check the EGRC (that the little can that gets power to operate the EGR) to make sure the contacts are good.

The EGR helps reduce the combustion chamber flame temperature.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Much better advice than the cool aid stuff! haha. Thanks Eric. I forget that since I just got this car, I have to go though everything again.

Maxima-4DSC

iTrader: (1)

i cant tell with all the vtc noise !

Nismo87SE

If your timing is bouncing around then it isn't in base timing mode. All you have to do is get the engine warmed up to normal temp then unplug the TPS and rev the engine 3 times over 3000rpm. If you don't the timing marks won't stand still, if the car doesn't hold a steady idle at 700-800rpm then you can't accurately set the timing. I had problems with my car because my tach is off so I couldn't set the timing right. Once I hooked up my techtom mdm-100 I found that my timing was set around 10-11*BTDC @ 700rpm when it was supposed to be at 15* @ 700rpm.

My car felt alot faster and I ran 2 tenths/2mph faster at the track too. I would advise that you get some kind of external tach or something that could read engine rpm. Once you get into timing mode the crank pulley should be steady and not move around. Also to get my idle down to 700-800rpm I had to unplug my IAC since the JWT ECU with the cam program raises the target idle to 950rpm.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Thanks Bro! I'll see about this maybe Sat!

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Are you still having problems Jeff? I know Eric had problems and decided to send it back to JWT. Did you make sure you were in base timing mode like the FSM brings out? I'm curious b/c I'm still thinking of getting this ECU.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

I took Ari's advice and got the timing to settle down. I pulled it back to something just a tad under the stock timing. ie.. maybe 1 degree. It's been really hot up here 80's and the pinging is gone. But when I have the AC on and I floor it, it will start to ping. Since I made this thread, I tried the SeaFoam engine cleaner. But I used the spray version. Used maybe 1/2 the can. I didn't get nearly as much smoke as others have. So I either didn't use enough or my intake manifolds/combustion chambers weren't that bad. Didn't seem to make much of a difference anyway. One theory is with my hot air intake JWT cone, it's pulling in hot air(it's REALLY hot under the hood). If I switched to a true CAI, it might help things during the summer months. I hav the cai stuff but I need a maf adaptor. Got one?

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

I have an adapter plate that comes with the stock airbox. But I like hanging onto all my spare VE parts. My garage is FULL.

But ebay is BY FAR the best bet. You can get one shipped for under $10. And they look like a quality piece of metal.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2424702723

I searched for "maxima adapter".

In the summer months, if I had higher timing like you, especially in 110 Vegas heat, I would bump the timing about 3 degrees below stock. Just to ensure that it won't detonate. In the winter, I would have some fun tweaking it. Little race fuel...

Oh yeah, to be even more sure about your timing, take out the #1 coil pack, use a spark plug wire to connect the coil pack straight to the spark plug. Then, tap into that signal. It's suppose to give the most accurate result. That's what my FSM says. I think base timing is something to be sure about when using a JWT ECU.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Thanks. I believe I got the timing decent. I can get a decent signal from using the wire that feeds the top of the coilpack.

Note: I suspect that Eric might have a sohc ecu. His problems really sound completely different that mine.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

I see. I was wondering what happened with Eric's ECU. There is a part number on the outside of the ECU that will let you know what motor it's for. JWT probably took that off. lol Of course, JWT denied all allegations. That sucks for Eric. That's why I really want to go elsewhere for my ECU upgrade needs. JWT's service has really gone downhill.

eric93SE

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys!

Well the ECU has just arrived back at Cattman. Even thought the sticker on the outside of the ecu said "sohc". All the original stickers were correct, Also I opened the ecu and the internals were what a DOHC should be (I also know what the inside of the sohc ecu should look like).

I'm awaiting my 'full' refund. I hope they dont jerk me, and try to keep a restocking fee. Be assured I will make a big stink if they do.

Hey Maybe I'll re-check my base timming! Ya never know

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

So what made you return the ECU? How long did you have it in your car? more than one tank of gas? I know you were pinging over 5K, but did you get that fixed? What things did you try to stop the pinging?

I hope they don't raise stink about it either. Plain and simple, if the ECU upgrade doesn't work like it should, then they should take it back AND pay shipping.

eric93SE

iTrader: (1)

Dude my track times were horrible. And even looked worse then when I ran last. To me, that means something is wrong. I havent had a chance to get a power balance test done, but when I do I'll let everyone know. I'm thinking a clogged injector is the culprit. New injector from courtesy niss, is $90. I'll probably do all of them If I find one bad one.

I really wish I had my injectors professionally cleaned the last time I had them out. The resistance is well inspec for all of them. I dont want to waste a lot of time cleaning them now, when not far down the line one or two may go bad. So I'd rather just replace all of them.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Your track times aren't that horrible. You told me yourself that you ran with a warm motor. Plus, it's hot right now. I seriously think it's possible that you can get low/mid 15s with just racing in better conditions. And don't let your motor get to operating temp at the track. The stock gauge SAYS it's normal temp. But, I've found out that when that stock temp gauge is in the middle, the actual coolant temp can be anywhere from 150 to 230 degrees. No joke. Normal operating temp I think is around 195. When I had pop charger, I could shave 3 or 4 tenths just by launching the car around 160 instead of 190.

I'd say, before you spend anymore money on your perfectly running VE, wait until the conditions get better at the track. You will see better times when the temp cools AND your motor cools. I don't think you have a problem.

If it makes you feel any better, last weekend at the bracket race, I ran consistant, 16.61s at 180 degrees for coolant. My normal for Vegas somewhere around 16.2s. I'm a 14 second car too. How do you think that makes me feel? LOL I think your car is fine according to your track times. It running what it should run.

There's a reason you haven't seen any records being broken in the 1/4 mile. It's too hot outside. I can't wait until winter time. I'm shooting for 14.90s in CA at 1000' elevation.

eric93SE

iTrader: (1)

Dude I always run at normal operating temp.!

I've ran a 16.0 last SUMMER!!!!!!!!! Arrrrgg.

I think I'm gonna change up the pop charger asap. I wanted a max.performance CAI, but their outta stock.

Maybe its the pop charger thats killing my times. And that my previous home made CAI worked better than a pooop charger.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Well, without having an aftermarket coolant temp gauge, you could run anywhere from 160 to 220 degrees without even knowing it.

You can't say that your times are sorry b/c they aren't. Everybody that runs good times has a cool motor. That's just the way it is.

If you want to run at operating temp, then your best bet might be to make some kind of custom ram air. For me, I stuck my filter in my removed headlight and I shaved 3 tenths on a cold day in NC. Right now, I'm working on a better streetable ram air that involves tupperware. LOL Don't laugh, it might work better than any other intake I've tried.

I have a WSP CAI right now and I love it. Very good quality!

What was the temp outside when you ran 16.0 last summer? Probably something like mid 80s? You would have ran about 15.6 if it was 45 degrees instead. You have a fast car. In fact, it's perfectly on track to beating my 14.83 record.

eric93SE

iTrader: (1)

Well I picked up the stuff at home depot to do another CAI. Unfortunatly I dont have the time to go to the track afterwards. It would be pretty interesting to see if the HAI was hurting my times that significantly.

Hey have you heard of the conzult, its a copy of the consult diagnostic tool. The only problem is that its a little pricey, over $450. But it will supposedly do everything that the consult can do.

http://www.eatricezone.com/

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

The HAI is not hurting your times. A hot VE is hurting your times. Your times are right where they should be in this hot weather. I guess you're not going to let your VE cool down. Cause if you don't, you will not see good times.

A CAI will help VE heat soak. So, if you're going to launch with a warm VE, then CAI or my ram air will definitely help a lot. With a warm VE, I was running consistant 15.60s with my pop charger. I let it cool down and I run 15.2s that SAME day with HAI. I put on my ram air, I run 14.9s warm. I let it cool down and run 14.8s. Not too shabby. This is ALL in the same day at the track. I even removed my cone filter with my ram air setup for a few runs, didn't help or hurt my times. I stayed at 14.8s. I got in like 10 runs that day.

The VE needs cool air. When you have POP charger and the VE is warmed up, it won't get the cool air that's needed.

So, yeah, CAI will help a couple tenths I think with a warm VE. But until you let it cool down slightly, you won't see normal times. Also please keep in mind that it's hot outside right now. 90 degree weather compared to 40 degree weather is a HUGE deal... something like 4 tenths. I ran those 14.8s in 50 degree weather in NC.

Oh yeah, almost forgot... yes I've heard of Conzult. I saw it on the twinturbo.net forum. I think the Z in Conzult is suppose to have something to do with 300zx's. But I'm VERY sure that it will work for our cars. I haven't looked too much into it. But it sounds like a good device. A cheap version of the real Consult. I think that's right. I wish I knew more about it. I kinda came across it while looking into AshSPEC ECU upgrades for the z32 NA Auto. It might be possible that this ECU will work fine in the VE Auto. I think I might be willing to find out since that upgrade is only $250 instead of JWT for $600.

eric93SE

iTrader: (1)

See I'd be happy if I ran 15.6 with a Pop. But I'm not, and actually I didnt see any gains with the UDP and the Y!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I was still stuck at 16.0

I'm telling you dude, there is something wrong. I just cannot decide whether to replace all injectors (with new connectors), or consider having the injectors serviced, since they all are well within spec. The only concern I have is wether or not they can remove the filter screens on the injectors in order to do a proper back flush/cleaning.

MrGone

iTrader: (30)

Jeff, I was going to say try out some seafoam aswell. I just did it on the Jimmy 2 weeks ago and its running alot better, and has alot more power going up hills and such. I used the liquid kind, put 1/3 in the crank, 1/3 in the gas tank, and 1/3 sucked threw a vaccum hose. No smoke though... (kind of surprised me).

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

I bet you will run 15.6 if you will let that VE cool down. But in order to do that, you have to run in colder weather also. About 50 degrees is nice for a track day. I can't believe I am repeating myself so many times. You will NOT see 15.6 UNTIL you let that motor cool in colder weather. Sorry, that is a fact. Fix as much stuff as you want, but you are NOT slow. I ran 15.7s in NC with Pop charger, Y and UDP only. I advanced my timing and ran 15.5s. This was all done in JAN. When it's cold as *****.

eric93SE

iTrader: (1)

Well I installed a home made CAI yesterday, and it definitly feels good. I used 4" semi rigid dryer duct (not the cheap foil stuff), a plastic adapter 4"-3" for the cone filter, and a metal 4"-3" adapter for the connection to the MAFS. When I buy a new filter in the future I'll get one with a 4" opening, so there'll be no need for the adapter.

I wanna run it at the track just to see the difference between the Pop and CAI. Proving POP chargers su-ck (oh-yeah and that I have a slow max)

And for all those hatters out there of using dryer duct
I did a pretty clean install and there is really no difference performance wise over an aftermarket CAI. Both are made of metal and will absorb heat, actually since mine is shinny aluminum it'll absorb less radiant heat than a darker painted CAI.

Aaron, your defintily right though about the difference in launching with a CAI and a POp. The CAI will definitly have the advantage off the line.

Sorry dude I'm not gonna let the car cool down, I've said it before its not realistic.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Oh well. Good luck with the new setup. I'm very sure it will make you faster when warm. I guarantee it. What will make you EVEN faster when warm is my ram air for the track. But, like you said, it's not realistic for everyday street use, so I know you won't try it.

Since you like working on new intake setups, I think I have a great idea for street use. I will be working on this soon. Here's a link:

http://www.thumper300zx.com/modifica...hairintake.htm

eric93SE

iTrader: (1)

Thats a pretty bad **** setup. I used that tubing on my first CAI, that was a apart of a modified stock air box. I used 4" at the time.

Hey Aaron look for the biggest friggen tupperware you can find, then shuve it under the fender!

I think I could modify mine for the fun of it and incorporate some tupperware. I like the idea of the clear (transparent) stuff.

MrGone

iTrader: (30)

hey Aaron, there is a local guy up here who runs www.intenseperformance.com, he offered me a job but 40 miles away is alittle too much for a commute. Anyway, Check out the stage 3 intakes. If you have a design and everything, and would like it to be made out of metal and such, I could ask him if he would be up for doing it.

He can also make fuel rails, intake manifolds and various other things. Right now hes only doing the work for the Dodge Magnum series engines, but I dont think he would mind a change.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Yeah. My battery will be in the way with the smallest tupperware container that I can fit my K&N filter in. So, I will try my best to slide it over and drill new holes in the battery tray. Then, I will be able to fit a 8" deep and 6" square tupperware container inside my engine bay exactly where the stock airbox sits.

I also thought of putting that tupperware where my CAI filter sits, but that would just lengthen the pipe going from the filter to the throttle body. But, it would definitely be a cleaner install. But, the ram air will draw even MORE water inside that box since the tubing going outside the car will be so close to the filter.

So, my idea is to put the tupperware where the stock airbox sits. Then, run ONE 3 or 4 inch flex tubing inside my CAI hole in the fenderwell. Then, route that tube below the splash shield somehow. I might cut the splash shield or I can just wedge the tube and bend the shield out of the way. But then the shield will catch wind while going 145mph. haha... at that speed, I will have trouble keeping the lid on the tupperware container.

MrGone, before I try to fab anything up, I will have to see how this container fits. It appears that I will have to bend it all out of shape to get it to fit. Not sure quite yet. But it sounds like a good idea. I hope someone can do this before me.