hey, whazzup ;p. I've been checking out this site for a while, but not until now have I posted. I'm curious, what do you think I should do for my first few mods in order of priority? i've already put in a system in my max and added a k&n air filter. thanks!

btw: im pissed, the 92 doesn't have rear disc brakes it seems all other cars have em now too..boo

 

Welcome!

I'm working on a rear disc conversion.. I'll probably do it next summer. it shouldn't be that difficult to rob them off an SE. (all 3rd gen SE models have rear discs).

as for mods, I would highly recommend sway bars and/or a strut tower brace.
they'll both help pull in handling, and they're the next cheapest thing. strut tower brace is about $60, sway bars are about $225-260.

the only other thing I'd recommend right off would be a cold air intake. Is your K&N a cone intake, or just the drop-in panel filter? if it's the panel filter, you can either go with a cone-type intake $60-120 or spend some more money and go with a full CAI (cold air intake). you'll get more power with them, but they cost more money. I think somewhere around $260, but don't quote me there.

 

Well I don't really know what model your Maxima is (and if it is an 5 speed or auto) but I will give you a good starting point for modifications. Some good modifications are the following:

Performance
* K&N conical airfilter (from Stillen)
OR
* The Place Racing Cold Air Intake (better than K&N)
* Cattman Performance Y-pipe
* Random Technology 2.5" high flow catalytic converter
* Greddy cat-back exhaust (Stillen)
* Short throw shifter (Stillen)
AND
* Lightened clutch and pressure plate (Stillen)
* Jim Wolf Technology turbo kit (custom done but well worth it)
* Jim Wolf Technology upgraded ECU
* Unorthodox Racing underdrive pulley

Handling
* KONI 3-way adjustable shocks and Intrax/H&R/Eibach springs
OR
* Tokico non-adjustable shocks
* Suspension Techniques front and rear sway bars (for 3rd Gen NOPI)

Drivetrain
* Level10 Tranny upgrade (complete upgrade if you have the money)
OR
* Modified automatic transmission valve body by Don Cooper in TX or Level10 as well as a trasmission cooler


Call up the following people

NOPI 1-800-277-6674
Stillen 1-800-711-4128 Adam Hume
Random Technology 1-770-978-0264
The Place Racing 1-626-966-4888
Cattman Performance cattman@azstarnet.com or http://www.cattman.com
Level10 Transmissions http://www.levelten.com
Jim Wolf Technology http://www.jimwolftechnology.com
Unorthodox Racing http://www.unorthodoxracing.com

Call up Stillen and ask for Adam Hume (tell him you are from the Maxima BBS for discounts on all parts). I hope that this helps.

 

I have the 1992 automatic GXE. I don't think I'll be doing the underdrive pulley though, I have a big soundsystem that just robs all the power. I have the drop-in air filter from K&N and am thinking about doing CIA first off. I want to drop it, but I'm not sure how much prices are for labor etc. Also, if I do intake, I'll probably do exhaust next, otehrwise it seems a waste to have all that added airflow, and not be able to use it! If I add a CIA and exhaust, how will thatsound, will it be noticbaly guttier, or will it sound like those damned civics?

thanks

 

Basically as long as you don't buy one of those 6" fart pipes or a RiceBoy muffler, your car will sound fine. the intake/CAI adds a nice growl to it already, and the exhast will give you a more agressive sound after that. I'm still running stock exhaust until it rusts or falls apart. Can't spend any more money on perf mods until after IASCA Finals.

 

unlike those buzzing Hondas. If you are even slighly mechanically inclined then you can install the Cold Air Intake by yourself so installation charges won't apply.

 

Yeah, I don't thin I'm going togo for the riceboy look ;p. How about for the following, I'm kinda curious on that:

suspension drop: what are the other things that I need to do when I drop it, and about how much dothey cost? camber, struts (what do struts do?) etc etc

also, I want to get rid of my rear drum and add disc brake...is this hard and costly? I remember the mention of taking the rear disc off a 1993 GXE or something like that? thanks!

 

Springs: Eibach, Intrax, or H&R (rated from best handling to the most comfortable ride) will cost around $200-225
Struts: Tokico or KONI usually around $400-500 for all 4 corners

Struts help dampen the feeling you get from the road. They give you that Cadillac spoungy feel or the nimble responsiveness of a Miata.

As far as changing to rear disc brake setup I don't know how expensive this is but I am sure anything is possible.

 

Justin, (just FYI), they no longer make H&R springs for 3rd gen Maxes. Our choices are Sus tech, Eibach, or Intrax.

I bought the full Tokico/eibach set from Stillen for just under $500.

Rear disc conversion shouldn't be that bad, as they use the same struts, master cylinder, brake cable, etc etc. basically there's a few bolts on the bottom of the rear strut tower that have to be removed, then the whole thing comes off. switch to disc setup shouldn't take more than a few hours.


ngthing, as for the rest of the Qs on the suspension, read the other thread going right now. That answers just about everything.

 

arospeed makes a 1.75" drop for about $200. dont know how stiff or whatever. why doesnt someone get them and tell us how they are? he he

 

Okay, now that I've got the suspension part down, can somebody explain a little about why I would need a cam kit if I lowered my car more than 1.5"..from my understanding, the cam is that thing that determines how fast like gas gets into the engine...i just learned that from word of mouth..let me know if I'm wrong

also, what do these front/rear sway bars do and front/rear strut bars, and what's the difference between them? ok thanks!

 

when you lower your car it causes your wheels to bow in at the top. one way is camber and the other is caster, but i cant remember which is which. i think camber is when the wheels are bowed in at the top, and caster is when the wheels are bowed out at the top. when your wheels are bowed in at the top that means that you will get uneven tire wear. like on mine i lowered it 1.75" and i get uneven tire wear. the very inside lip of the tire wears down faster than the rest. i need to get new tires like every couple of months the way it is now cuz it wears down that one side of the tire too much, but i'm soon to get it fixed. one side of the tire might be fine, but the other is worn all the way down so you have to blow money on tires. under a 1.5 drop apperantly doesnt have enough of an effect on the camber, therefore a kit is not needed.

 

I see, so if I get a 1.5in drop, I'm looking at the eibach kits, and I think it's like 1.5 front/ 1.25 rear, will I need a kit? or isthere a way to tell if there will be uneven tire wear?

 

If you get the Eibach kit, you won't need a camber adjustment. Just get an alignment and you'll be cool.

 

alignment? ehh..explanation please! ;p...also, this is what I'm thinking of doing, whatdo you think?

1) SOME type of cone intake, one from that Z website..or from JWT, the pop charger
2) tint my windows
3) suspension and struts
4) exhaust?
5) body kit?

 

i'd say go with the cold air intake. gives you more power