I don't know what to do about this hesataion and stalling crap and I don't know if I even want to spend the money to try to fix it, since my last $1500 hasn't improved anything. This morning my car was jerking and hesitating the whole drive to work. And on sunday it cut off in the middle of the road while I was turing in Walmart. (imagine my face when I turn in front of on coming traffic and the car dies with 6 cars coming straight at me.)

Well this is what I'm considering at the moment.
http://www.autotrader.com/findacar/v...or=&cardist=10

My dad also has a 97 Mustang Gt at his dealership that I'm consedering, which I would be able to pick up for about $6500. What do you guys think I should do. Does the VQ engine have the same type of problems as the VE or is it more reliable? Or should I just stick it out with the 3rd gen? I need help .

 

What have you done in the way of replacing stuff, thus far? I'm curious.

 

Knock sensor
spark plugs
water pump
pcv valve
air filter
fuel filter
Control Arm bushings (Matt93SE)
Struts (but thats off subject)

 

You might want to try carefully cleaning the maf sensor wire w/ alcohol and a Q-tip. And make sure the maf connections are clean and getting good contact.

 

Already done, cleaned the throttle body too! Oh and I also replaced the TPS.

 

pull any codes from the ecu?

 

Main fusable link harness? I think there's one fuse that supplies power the to the ecu. Pull any codes also.

 

No, not since I replaced the Knock sensor. I wish, that would at least point me in the right direction. Sometime when the car stalls, the check engine light will come on everytime I touch the gas pedal and when I let off it will go out. So I don't know, because it still won't throw a code.

On a side note, can anyone tell if the 96 Max (from the link above) really is an SE, because I don't see any fogs.

 

If you check engine light goes on, that means it just threw a code. Just because it goes off, doesn't mean the code isn't stored in the ecu. Do the ecu diagnostic and see what the code is. Don't know how to do that? Read the stickies and the FAQ

 

I haven't checked the ECU lately, but when this would happen in the past I would pull over and check the codes on the ECU and it would always give me 55 (system OK). But I've never drove the car in diagnostic mode, I've only checked the codes on the ECU. I've done this probably 7 times and have never recieved a code other than 55. (well, since I've replaced my knock sensor.)

 

Where is the Main Fuseable link harness located? Would it produce the symptoms if it was going out??

 

Stickies

 

Which stickies, I just went through the 3rd gen FAQs and the chiltons on line and couldn't find anything about Main Fusible link harness. Can you direct me to a certain area?

 

what about testing the fuel injectors??

 

http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton...61CH06_38.HTML
http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton...61CH06_37.HTML

These might help.

I might lean towards a bad ecu now. Becuase if the check engine light turns on, it's SUPPOSED to store a fault code in the ecu.

 

I've tried to test them, but I don't know what I'm doing. I pulled the front 3 and there was no change in the idle. I can't get the back 3 out, but I don't know if I would be able to tell anthing or not, because my car doesn't act up consistently.

 

do any other lights on your dash come on when the car stalls and the check engine light appears? I think if other lights are coming on, it's just like when you put the key in and turn to ACC, the dash lights up like a christmas tree.

I'd check some things like your fuel system (fuel pump or injectors could be failing) or your electrical system(could also have problems if the alternator or battery are bad).

Has the shop actually diagnosed the problem or have you jsut been fixing things on your own without direction?

 

you might want to actually test the resistance of the injectors. they are funny like that... many of the injector probs I've seen from the guys on this forum, is that the problems aren't consistent, one day it'll be running fine and the next day the car will run like crap.

 

I've taken it to 2 shops and they where telling me that it was the knock snesor sending a shut down code to the ECU, but since then I have replaced the knock sensor. I don't know what to think, because It hadn't stalled for the last 3 or 4 weeks until Saturday. Its stalled 2 since then and has started hesitating and jerking more than normal. I always run 93 octane in my system too.

 

Ok fellas I'm trying to understand this: HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR MONITOR (ENGINE RUNNING)

In this mode the red LED on the ECM or MIL light will display the condition of the fuel mixture and whether the system is in closed loop or open loop. When the light flashes ON, the exhaust gas sensor is indicating a lean mixture. When the light stays OFF, the sensor is indicating a rich mixture. If the light remains ON or OFF, it is indicating an open loop system. If the system is equipped with two exhaust gas sensors, the left side will operate first.

Turn the ignition switch ON.
Turn the diagnostic switch ON, by turning the switch fully clockwise for 2 seconds and then fully counterclockwise.
Start the engine and run it until it is thoroughly warm. Raise the idle to 2,000 rpm and hold for approximately two minutes. Confirm the red LED or MIL light flashes ON and OFF more than five times every ten seconds with the engine speed at 2,000 rpm.


I did this test and while the RPM's were at 2000 the light would constantly blink without end and when I let off the gas the light would remain on constantly (without blinking). So what does this mean??? Any help would be appericated, the Ecu does not have any stored codes.

 

Can anyone help with this. Does this mean that I have an open loop system? What does this mean and is it good or bad? Thanks

 

I read somewhere that it may not be the knock sensor itself causing the problem, but the knock sensor harness. The wires themselves get corroded (not the connectors) and make it hard for the knock sensor to get the right signal to the ECU.

 

Well, I've already replaced the knock sensor and harness. And the ECU is no longer sending the knock sensor code. I'm really wondering what the results of the Oxygen sensor test mean.