What all do i need to do a turbo set up on a VG30E. i searched but found limited info. any help at all could be of some great help. Thanks Guys.

 

get a hold of an old 300zx engine and turbo system...
also have to have some $$$ and time

 

you need to be more specific to get some real help.

sorry bud.

MrGone

 

IBTL - you [B]KNOW[\B] what's gonna happen to this thread....

 

why didnt your bolds work?

 

Hmmm.... good question.

 

i think its almost sleepy time

 

if at first you don't succeed, try and try again....

and no, you don't need the whole 300zx motor

 

there's no way in he11 you search!! this topic has been beated to death...weekly if not daily!

oh man i want to ban the next fool that posts about turbo and saying he "searched/researched"

 

you know, I'm sure Kevin has a way he can look at the server logs and see who searched for what...... if we catch them lying.. "I searched, but didn't find anything.." then we ban them! ;-)

 

3 days ago, I had very little info about actually turboing our cars. I know how they work, and each component, but now I know more exactly what we need.

I didnt search because I cant.
I didnt post because I didnt have enough info as it was to ask a good question.
I simply asked other members with experience, they decided to help me out and now I'm just alittle bit closer to fully being able to get one running myself.


searching other places than Maxima.Org is helpful too. A turbo setup is a turbo setup, they all have the same basic principle. Once you fully understand that, go over to turbomaxima.com and stare at the pictures for a long time. then pay $20 or so and gain access to search, or nicely ask someone (and pray) to do the search for you.

-MrGone

 

I don't understand why people say they can't search?? the search works fine... donator or not.

 

-z31 T3
-z31 turbo exhaust manifold or custom made manifold
-Maxima oil pan tapped for oil lines to turbo
-custom intake piping (tapped or flange for a BV, BOV, etc)

Sorry if none of this makes sense. I've been up for more than 48hrs working on cars and am tired as hell. All I listed is the basics. I too tired to think if I am missing something. To convert your existing Vg to turbo really isn't too hard if you do a cheap "stock" setup and don't run much higher boost. Running the stock compression, ecu, etc you should be able to get away with a t3 from a z31 and running the stock 6.5psi (I thought it was 6.5psi). Though, I'd use 93octane to be safe. Vg30et's stock are 8.5:1 and a Maxima Vg30e is 9:1 so you'd probably have a little more than the ET's 200hp.

Too tired.....must sleep

 

the search doesn't work half the times for me either

 

Yeah same here, connection to server times out a lot, no matter how many times I try. I guess there are too many people using it at once or something and there's not enough server bandwidth to spare.

 

you're a bad bad man! but i like your ideA!

 

Me, too! I swear...

(and Matt, I'm surprised you haven't locked this one up already...)

 

Maybe our good friend Matt was waiting for me to provide my input given I'm nearing the completion of my project.

Fact is, to turbo a Maxima, you have to ask yourself how much HP and therefore, how big a turbo we're going for.

For the record, my Garrett GT35R is sitting in the battery bay, with the battery relocated to the boot/trunk. Fuel lines upgraded to -8 for supply and -6 for return, supported by a Walbro GSS341, feeding a custom fuel rail which has 1/2" seamless stainless steel tubing right through squirting through a set of Nismo 555cc injectors, returning through an Aeromotive A1000-6 fuel pressure regulator.

The intake setup has remained the same, to avoid engineering issues (in terms of legalities with our draconian design rules and all). I'm still trying to figure out a stealthy way of hiding the oil catch can whilst making it look like I'm still using the PCV 3#-)

The intercooler is the toughest part for me because I'm keeping it a sleeper, meaning no bodykits, and with my laser jammers in the upper bumper cover, I'm very limited in height but hopefully not in width. Pipework will then be determined once it's all mounted.

Engine management is a MoTeC M800 ECU piggybacked with the stock ECU to keep the auto transmission control unit happy as well as controlling the 2 radiator fans in the intelligent way Nissan have had it set up (something not possible with the MoTeC given the level of customising Nissan put into it with AC on/off conditions and the like). The MoTeC will also set the lower and upper RPM limits at which the 50hp dry shot of NOS will operate for the sake of further intercooling and low end boost. The MoTeC's emissions control will be monitored using a single NTK UEGO wideband EGO sensor which has the fastest reaction time, although a short lifespan of 500hrs. The ECU will also be able to handle the boost control using a Delco valve, manipulating a TiAL 46mm wastegate.

Most important of all ... the motor is being rebuilt (still!!) using Ross forged pistons (30 thou oversize), Z32TT con-rods and most likely the stock crankshaft unless they're happy to work with the Z32TT crankshaft some more. A higher volume and higher PSI oil pump is in the engine and the transmission has been rebuilt by Level 10 (PTS Stage 3).

Although I haven't gotten to the stage of the intercooler and pipework as yet, I'm aiming for HPC coated custom headers and a stainless steel shield around the exhaust housing of the turbo to keep the engine bay heat to a minimum. For added safety, I have used XRP insulated sleeving along the wiring harness nearest to the engine and turbo.

NOW then, excluding the transmission, I have spent (given the current exchange rate) somewhere in the vicinity of US$18k in the space of 1.5 years (the only reason why it has taken so long is because the first engine builder was being a slow-**** twit who never got started on machining the block!!!!). The motor has been in the hands of another dude for about 5 months now so it should be almost done in the next couple of weeks, I hope. Bear in mind, I have not included the cost of the intercooler, pipework (intake and exhaust) and then the incidentals as well. We're probably looking at a total of US$21k for the turbo project, excluding the Level 10 transmission.

NOW then, you're probably asking how the f__k did I find out how to do what I needed to do?

Research pal, you're not looking hard enough. I've had the help of some people in these circles (of whom I will not mention until the project is completed, with their permission in case they don't want to be bombarded with STUPID questions). But most importantly, I've walked the 100's of miles to enquire with manufacturers, dealers and mechanics about what is needed given my exact specifications.

Here's the specifications you need when speaking to the people relevant to each area of the turbo project (as I've tried to split it up for you):

1) Engine capacity and number of cylinders
2) Desired level of HP
3) Required level of PSI from turbo (once you've told the turbo guy 1 & 2)
4) Purpose of vehicle - daily driver or drag car.

Armed with all this info, you then run off to all the relevant people in the business and start drilling them for info using that as a guide as to with whom you should be doing business with.

Now run along and do as you've been told. No further questions will be answered from this point.

 

good god, you spent 18-21k on a turbo project...

 

if you see some of his pics, you'll know why! He went all out!

 

Don't worry. There will be more pics once the project is completed. Until then, you'll find them at the usual place 3#-)

 

Since you're trying to keep this vehicle stealthy I suggest using an Air to Liquid intercooler. This will eliminate the need for 3" air channel showing in the front grill. You can use a much smaller line for feed and return lines to the heat exchanger.

You also get to keep the re-routing of the intake to a minimum. Keeping the intake as short as possible is a good thing. Adding 6-8 feet of additional intake length can induce additional lag.

Additionally, if you do anything other the drag race or autocross (gymkana) A2A intercoolers have a tendancy to heat soak. Most will reach their limit within 60-90 seconds. Given time between runs you can cool an A@A IC out of heat soak, but if you don't have time you're shot. A2L with a properly sized capacity can virtually stay out of heat soak all day.

BTW.... I didn't see anything about a blow off valve. Are you not planning to use one?

There is one other HUGELY important bit of info you need to decide BEFORE you get into a project of this type. That is BUDGET! How much are you willing spend.

 

Even though it's auto, yes I am using a TiAL blow off; very important at such high boost.

As for the budget, well, ask yourself what power you want first and then you'll be able to add up the costs yourself once you get all the quotes from the relevant areas. Then you work your way down. You never tell people how much you want to spend, you simply tell them what horsepower you want to obtain a reliable solution from them and work your way down to the dollar figure you desire which will then no doubt influence the final figure.

With the intercooler that I'll be using, that's still up in the air for the time being, but I've got a preference for A2A just because of the fewer things that can go wrong. With A2L, if the water pump dies, so does your motor on a big hit. I've seen it done before.

 

And I've seen many A2A engines go at track days because the IC went into heat soak. One of them was mine.

It is easy to throw a coolant temp gauge into the coolant tank or line. You can also monitor the current used by the electric coolant pump to make sure it's running.

 

I know but I've already filled up my cockpit with gauges! Observe:




I'm sure I can figure out another spot to put another gauge in but damn man! I don't want to go turning this car into a Christmas tree either - it is a sleeper after all

Bear in mind as well, the MoTeC bases its maps on intake temperature as well so if heat soak does become an issue, the boost control feature in the MoTeC will wind it down, more fuel and then also more retarded timing will kick in as per the trim figures based in the fuel and ignition maps too.

We'll see what happens when it's time to actually get the intercooler slapped in, but until then, you've left me thinking you bastard!!

 

Hehehehe... a sleeper with three big chrome pillar pods?

Keep it up man.... I can still see several places to put more gauges....lol

You could also just put a small but bright red light hanging from the gauge binnacle between the speedo and tach. If the pump motor fails (no current draw) or the coolant temp exceeds a certain the light blasts on letting you know for sure it's time to back off.

Of course the real key is to use a reliable pump. There are several available from car manufacturers. Toyota made a series of A2L cooled Celica's with the 3SGTE turbo engine (2L/200HP/200FP) from the MR2 in an AWD package. Fun car to drive..... The point was the pumps from the last two series of these are extremely reliable and still available from your local Toyota dealer....

 

Thanks again. I'll add that to my research list then 3#-)

Cheers!!

 

hey The Max
instead of looking 4 places to put gauges... why u don't buy the SUPER AVC TYPE-R from A'PEXi ?

functions:
Monitor Mode: Allows monitoring of up to four channels at one time. Also allows tracing of AVC-R monitor functions.

Setting Mode: There are three setting modes: A, B, or OFF. A total of two boost settings are available with the AVC-R. Selecting OFF will turn off all boost control.

Etc. Mode: The etcetera menu is used for configuring the variables that allow the AVC-R to properly control boost. (i.e. the number of cylinders, speed sensor type, throttle sensor type, gear judge, etc.)
Up to four data channels can be selected for monitoring: Intake Manifold Vacuum/Boost Pressure

Engine RPM
Vehicle Speed
Throttle Position
AVC-R Solenoid Valve Duty Cycle
Injector Duty Cycle (if connected)

Up to four of these parameters can be monitored in three different ways:
Numerical
Analog Meter
Graph Display

If monitored numerically, pressing the up key allows the user tosee a peak hold value for the chosen parameter.
If monitored in analog meter mode, up to two meters can be displayed at one time. By pressing the up key, the analog meters will hold the peak value. If the user is under 3 or 4 channel mode, only the first two channels will be displayed.
If monitored in graphic display mode, pressing the up key will allow the AVC-R to start "sampling" or memorizing data channels. The memorized graph can then be replayed by pressing the right key. Anytime during replay the right key can be pressed, and the display can be paused. To review any part of the memorized graph, the user can push the left key during replay. Anytime during backwards replay, the left key can be pressed to pause the display.
If monitoring one channel, the last 60 seconds can be replayed.
If monitoring two channels, the last 30 seconds can be replayed.
If monitoring three channels, the last 20 seconds can be replayed.
If monitoring four channels, the last 15 seconds can be replayed

and so on...

the link : http://www.apexi-usa.com/electronics...aloverview.asp
i think for a 18k$ setup this little baby it worth the buy...

 

the monitoring fucntions and boost control functions the AVCR offers are probably not worth the "extra" price since I'm sure the Motec ECU pretty much handles all that alreafy. more money to spend compared to re-arranging a few gauges.

 

what gauges u have now?

 

holy crap this thing better run 11s if not 10s for that much money it sure looks like your got the most moded max in the whole world good luck with traction im very jelous except for the auto part even though in your situation it will proboly work much better than a 5 speed

 

Not to mention they will flow enough to support 850cc injectors

Cheers
KiwiMR2

 

Any link to the pics?

Your homepage seems to be down The Max, is that where they're located?

 

take the bottom end from a 95-older pathfinder.
proper fuel system
21 psi
400+ hp to the wheels

not like i would know this or anything

 

every time i see a thread started about turboing the max, nobody ever posts or advises that you will need another car to drive while you are doing this little weekend project. so what gives? doesn't anyone ever factor that into the equation? this is not like changning the rims or adding a CAI.

 

you dont nesisarily need an extra car it can be done in under 1 month by someone that knows what they are doing and doesnt have all kinds of extra stuff done like having to ship stuff off to companies to have them do stuff as long as its kept basic it can be done very easily

 

the word "easy" and turboing the VG don't go in the same sentance. even if you drop it off at a shop and say turbo my Maxima...its gonna take longer than a month to have it running 100% and for optimal gains!

 

subs,

i know you are all for the turbo, as a lot of us are, and it is a cool sort of 'maxima ****' fantasy, but, dude, go home. you don't know the half of it, sunshine. i will overlook your naive post and only mildy flame you as you are a fan of the VG.

ok. at least admit that you will have to have your mommy drive you around for a "month." or you can take the bus.

 

Then by all means, enlighten us all.

 

LOL, damn man, I think you took that post a little TOO seriously