THX

iTrader: (1)

I've been sitting on the fence about getting rid of my 90 auto since it costs about $2k to get a rebuild, and with all the slipping at 180k and me delivering pizzas it needs one bad. I figured in the end it would be cheaper to fix this car rather than to spend ~$6k on a 4th gen.

My question is should I save up for something else expensive that may fail at high mileage? I know the VGs are strong and I have a new battery and alternator.. anything I should keep in mind trying to get maybe 250k+ miles outta the max?

ObsidianIce69

iTrader: (11)

probably the exhaust studs i think

THX

iTrader: (1)

Is this something I can check myself or do I have to take it to the dealer?

DARHAW-MAX

After the tranny, you should be good to go other than the normal sheduled stuff. If you have not done it already, you man need struts. Possibly ball joints and tie rod ends, but these are easy and inexpensive. I am with you; I rather keep a kick-a$$ Maxima and drop a couple $K a year instead of paying $$$K for another car--and still have to the aforementioned things. About the only thing you can't really control is the styling. Unless you want different styling, then you are stuck with getting another car. As much as I love both of my 3rd Gens, I would love to get a 2k3 SE, 6spd.

THX

iTrader: (1)

I'm one of the nuts who thinks the 3rd gen is still the best looking Max, though the 6th gen is just about tied with it now imo. And for my delivery job I can't imagine manuevering with a 4th gen+ with its multi-link suspension over the 3rd gens independent susp. On the other hand I'd really love the extra speed of a VQ, but to be honest I don't really need it chouffering pizzas back & forth.

Looks like I'll be making that rebuild appointment next week. Oh then there's the brakes... $_$

DARHAW-MAX

I am with you on the styling. 3rd Gen kick's butt. Suspension, ditto.

As for the brakes, that also is pretty easy and inexpensive. New rotors and pads don't cost that much--when taken into perspective of how it will extend the life of the car. When I purchased the SE, I changed both front and rear rotors and used Raybestos ceramic pads (to cut down on the dusting). All is all, it cost me around $400.00 for the parts and a few hours for me to install them. If price is an issue, you do the fronts first then the rears later. Bleeding and replacing the old brake fluid only takes a few bottles of DOT3 and an assistant (it is a good way to spend some quality time with your girl while depresses the brake pedal).

Really, I can't see myself entering another car payment schedule as long as there are wonderful, good-quality, pre-owned (the new term for "used") cars out there. Sh*t, that is $400 (or more) a month that I can keep and use for better purposes.

THX

iTrader: (1)

rears are drums, same for you?