negreenfield

I've looked at the cybrrpartspro website to see how to replace it, but before I do, I was wondering if anyone had some suggestions on other things to look for. I want to make sure it's not something small that can be quickly replaced or fixed.

I tested the battery at 12.2 volts, so it seems fine.

TIA

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

12.2 when your car is running is LOWWWW...that alternator should kick out at least 13v when the car is running. if it's at 12.2 then it's bye bye alternator.

if your alternator is failing..it's failing..you can ignore it and buy some good sneakers instead.

negreenfield

12.2 when not running.

negreenfield

btw, battery light, brake light were on driving home from work yesterday, window wouldn't roll up, radio worked, car stalled in a parking lot. got jumped, car starts sputtering then dies as soon as jumper cable removed from good car. lights go dim.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

sounds like a dead alternator to me... watch out that you don't ruin your battery in the meantime. get an alternator from whatever source works for you, and be prepared to buy a battery soon too, if the dead alt. stressed it too much. they often go in pairs.

Dielaughing

fyi if you have a dohc vg they came with a 95 amp alternator, but everywhere i've looked wants to replace it with a 90... happily most alternators you'll get will come with a lifetime warranty (which i am currently cashing in on cuz it didn't last a lifetime...).
and 12.2 is LOW, man. running you should be 13.5-14v at the battery.
just don't break a bolt getting it out.

negreenfield

sure you don't mean VE?

Well, I got the damn thing out and the auto parts store gave me an alternator that had the correct box, but incorrect part inside the box So now I have to wait until Friday when it gets in. Frustrating!!

PS, it was 12.2 not running

johnnyo319

Question: With my lights on and the AC running and stopped a red light, my voltage drops to 12.2 from 13.9. This seems dangerous and i have to drive without AC to avoid a dead battery or i hold the brake and accelerate to crank out some voltage from the alternator a little. Do any of you know how many volts you get under the same situation? I'm thinking it might be a loose belt (AC or FAN or alterntor). am i right?

DARHAW-MAX

johnnyo319---

Replace that altenator. If your belts were loose, you were hear them.

96ItaliaSE

iTrader: (3)

alternator = dead
any import with a battery and brake light indicates a failing alt.

cspangg

Just had a problem similiar, i had corrosion on my + battery connector, i cleaned it, rode around Pensacola for a few days just fine and then I head to jacksonville about 370 miles east, well, when i had rode about 60 miles my car started acting funning, windsheild wipers would come on with the switch in off position, radio would cut off everytime I changed a station and my RPM was gauge sticking. Finally about fifty miles outside of Jax, the MAX started hesitating big time, I was rolling about 85 when my RPM slowly started to die and eventually down to 0! Now I stuck on I-10 cell phone has no antenna bars , FHP shows up, calls a tow truck, I figuring it's my alternator, and that I was running off my battery at the end. none of my dash lights lit up, this clown shows up with a tow truck,flat bed and tows my car to there shop about 2.5-3 miles and the tow charge was 90$. The guy talking about it's your alternator and the shop is close and we have to lock your car up in the fence, My car had alot of luggage in it and i told him to take me and my car back to the gas station @ the exit #333 1/2 mile up the road, this guy said if we have to come tow you again in the a.m. we're going to charge you twice. I know a little bit about cars now, got up to the store ,got it jump and while trying to jump it , my dash lights wouldn't come on and got to playing with the cables and found that one of the wires running to the + cable was broken, twisted the wire together and the MAX ran fine. As for the tow company, my insurance is investigating the situation since they had to pay for it and a 2.5 mile tow shouldn't cost 90$$$$ be careful on the road and they will try to rip you off , good luck on your Max, if you have to change your alternator,you might want to put in a good one, some of the ones from autozone and places like that don't last to long,even though they are life time replacement.

maximajoe

My alterantor just went. If your battery light no longer comes on with the key in and turned, as well as the abs light coming on, its your alternator. Also, my radio, auto climate, etc, would not work due to the low voltage. Easy to replace.

johnnyo319

OK, i just changed the alty and similar or same problem still occurs. It seems my alty is pumping out more voltage than before but I still occasionally get low voltage with:

AC on + Headlights on + On Brakes + In Drive = dropping voltage.

Could it be something wrong with the AC or my brake lights?
I noticed that when I step on the brakes with the AC and Headlights on but in Park, the voltage drops a little. So i checked my brake lights and noticed that one of the bulbs melted the plastic socket. So, i'm gonna get some LED's to put in there and see if the problems still occur.

MaximaGuy719

Anybody recommend a place online that sells alternators? Seems like no one has nothing nice to say about the ones sold at autozone, pepboys, etc...

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Check and and clean ALL the grounds. Expeically the main one to your block. Don't know where they are? Just open the hood and root around.

MrGone

iTrader: (30)

anything below a 12.6 is technically a dead battery, that is with everything off.

when the engine running you should be over 13 volts.

Kennedy

Try your Nissan dealership. I got a factory re-built one for 223 bucks canadian. and it's perfect.

jkmay01

iTrader: (3)

yea I had the same prob a few weeks ago!! Low voltage while driving voltage dropped to 12.2 while driving hit the brakes then would drop to 11.9 so just swapped it out took about hour and a half good as new now!!!!

Paul89SE

I just had a weird problem with my car. I was driving and had to turn around. So as i put it in reverse it stalled and would not start. I had very limited power and the instrument lights were very dull. I cleaned the corrosion off the cables and it didn't really help. So we pushed it and figured it needed a jump. It started right up with full power after pushing it, didn't even jump it. The security light was blinking erratically while i was driving home. Any ideas? Maybe loose cable, factory security alarm, battery?

jkmay01

iTrader: (3)

first then u got to do is check the voltage while the car is off and then while it is running. check the fluid levels in the battery also, check the alternator belt. How old is the alternator? do you have a sound system in the car? Once you get a voltage number then you can make a better diagnosis, the voltage while the car off should be 12.2 or so, but while running it should be no less than 14.4 give or take a few volts once accessories are turned on!! Good luck

Paul89SE

I checked the fluid and it didn't look bad. The alternator is ancient. I'll probably take the battery to autozone for testing and check all the cables. I just thought maybe there was like a starter kill like on aftermarket alarms.

jkmay01

iTrader: (3)

if there was you wouldnt be able to even start the car. those cut the current that is sent to the distributor. I would change the alternator, also have the battery checked because u could have been straining the battery while the alternator wasn't working.