turbo update
07-31-2003, 08:32 PM
#1
turbo update
Well, here is the update on my car. I am very close to getting it totally going. It would be running if it wasn't for the stupid Apexi S-AFC II not doing it's job. I plan on getting an eprom burnt for my spare ecu to control the bigger injectors but it could be a while before it's done. Here is the updated picture of the engine bay. Also, check out my cardomain page. I finally have it fully updated with some pointers on the engine swap. Also if you could put some votes in on my car that would be great. Thanks in advance!
07-31-2003, 08:45 PM
#2
1G Eclipse bov?? 
is that an MSD BTM or just a regular 6AL? looks interesting I'd really like to see some closer shots of how that shop did your manifold setup! interesting setup 
you're trying to use the AFC to run the 259ccs on the stock Maxima ECU??
is that an MSD BTM or just a regular 6AL? looks interesting I'd really like to see some closer shots of how that shop did your manifold setup! interesting setup you're trying to use the AFC to run the 259ccs on the stock Maxima ECU??
07-31-2003, 08:48 PM
#4
MSD 6AL. That thing is friggin' awesome! The power of the spark is insane. I'll get some pictures of the manifold tomorrow when there is some more light. Yeah, i'm trying to turn down the injectors a bit but it's not working for me. It's actually not doing anything which makes me think it's not setup or hooked up right but i can't find anyone that has use one on a third gen. On eclipses they control 555 cc injectors using the afc just fine (although i don't know what size the stock injectors are on those).
07-31-2003, 09:04 PM
#5
Originally posted by mtcookson
On eclipses they control 555 cc injectors using the afc just fine (although i don't know what size the stock injectors are on those).
On eclipses they control 555 cc injectors using the afc just fine (although i don't know what size the stock injectors are on those).
we did this on two of my friends turbo B16s and it worked like a charm, a little rough when you let off throttle though. as for setting it to work on a Maxima...man thats tough, its kinda hard when you have no base to start from!
07-31-2003, 09:08 PM
#6
yeah, it's a pain. i am pretty sure i have the wiring correct. the settings on the afc i'm not sure about though. i also think my tps might be bad. when the engine is off i will get a 0 to 100% reading but when it on i can only get it to 80-90%. Also, according to the test in the [p]aynes book it is bad. The test says 1 ohm when closed and 9 ohm when open. It is 1 ohm when closed but their is no connection when the throttle is open. I'm going to pick up a tps soon to see if that works hopefully.
07-31-2003, 09:33 PM
#9
07-31-2003, 11:39 PM
#11
08-01-2003, 09:36 AM
#12
Originally posted by DA-MAX
I think thats only an example, on Hondas 71% usually is what most suggest.
I think thats only an example, on Hondas 71% usually is what most suggest.
08-01-2003, 06:53 PM
#13
i hooked up my s-afc to the o2 sensor today and found out that the sensor is bad... hmm... i wonder if that is cause of my woes...
oh well, i'll grab one soon hopefully and see what happens.
oh well, i'll grab one soon hopefully and see what happens.
08-01-2003, 07:52 PM
#14
For about the same money as the S-AFC II you can get a Greddy E-Manage. While it's still a piggyback unit it functions more like a standalone. It can control both fuel and ignition (The S-AFC has an effect on timing when you richen or lean it that is not controlable). The software to tune the unit is now available in english and for free from their website. It has datalogging features... For the extra $100 or so I think I would tend to lean in that direction.
08-01-2003, 11:14 PM
#16
i have an ok ignition controller. i got it for 25 bucks too! so, i think that should be fine. i actually wouldn't mind getting the greddy over the apexi... but now i'm somewhat screwed since i bought it off of ebay.
hopefully the o2 sensor will do something.
hopefully the o2 sensor will do something.
08-01-2003, 11:56 PM
#17
Originally posted by DA-MAX
I'd really like to see some closer shots of how that shop did your manifold setup!
I'd really like to see some closer shots of how that shop did your manifold setup!
08-03-2003, 05:17 PM
#18
piping setup looks good! 
as for volt readings on the A/F, couple guys on HT are already doing this with standard voltmeters, but I'm not sure how accurate that is. I've been looking into doing this myself and to avoid using some cheesy light show A/F gauge I'll probably go with one of these if I can get it for the same price as an average voltmeter (I'm not bidding on it so feel free to!
)---> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2425976305
who knows if its anymore accurate than a standard voltmeter, but if I can get it cheap than might as well try.
as for volt readings on the A/F, couple guys on HT are already doing this with standard voltmeters, but I'm not sure how accurate that is. I've been looking into doing this myself and to avoid using some cheesy light show A/F gauge I'll probably go with one of these if I can get it for the same price as an average voltmeter (I'm not bidding on it so feel free to!
)---> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2425976305who knows if its anymore accurate than a standard voltmeter, but if I can get it cheap than might as well try.
Originally posted by mtcookson
i see. they had an awesome idea on there of using the secondary intake signal and hooking the o2 sensor up to it. i'm going to go try that. i should be able to get a much better idea of what the a/f mixture is using the voltage instead of reading leds.
i see. they had an awesome idea on there of using the secondary intake signal and hooking the o2 sensor up to it. i'm going to go try that. i should be able to get a much better idea of what the a/f mixture is using the voltage instead of reading leds.
08-03-2003, 05:26 PM
#19
yeah, those seems to be a little bit better than the led ones. it's amazing that just .02-.04 volts could make a difference from blowing up the engine or having good power. i may invest in one of those down the road but for now i'll just use the s-afc to read the voltage.
08-03-2003, 10:12 PM
#21
Originally posted by DA-MAX
piping setup looks good!
as for volt readings on the A/F, couple guys on HT are already doing this with standard voltmeters, but I'm not sure how accurate that is. I've been looking into doing this myself and to avoid using some cheesy light show A/F gauge I'll probably go with one of these if I can get it for the same price as an average voltmeter (I'm not bidding on it so feel free to! )---> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2425976305
who knows if its anymore accurate than a standard voltmeter, but if I can get it cheap than might as well try.
piping setup looks good!
as for volt readings on the A/F, couple guys on HT are already doing this with standard voltmeters, but I'm not sure how accurate that is. I've been looking into doing this myself and to avoid using some cheesy light show A/F gauge I'll probably go with one of these if I can get it for the same price as an average voltmeter (I'm not bidding on it so feel free to!
)---> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2425976305who knows if its anymore accurate than a standard voltmeter, but if I can get it cheap than might as well try.
Most gauges on the market have only 10 leds to denote the whole scale. My favorite, the HalMeter-AF has thirty leds broken into three grops of 10. Red-Green-Red for Lean-Rich-Lean. Consider that a three digit display has 1000.
And after all that, it's the resolution and acuracy of the O2 sensor that the REAL limiting factor.
08-03-2003, 10:58 PM
#22
true, thus why I'm hesitant to buy one....but like I said the price isn't too bad for a trial and many on HT and DSM tuner are using the same methods to track the voltage just like the AFC blue wire mod does...other than going full out wide-band I much rather see some sort of voltage off the O2 rather than having my old Nordskog with its flashing light bar show 
Originally posted by shoult
If you've ever seen an AF meter work in realtime you'd know those digital readouts would be almost worthless. In actual use they will fluctuate from lean to rich and back continuously. It's only when you boot it that the gauge actually gives you a reading that's worth anything. But a three digit display is going to be more confusion then help as it will NEVER settle. It just has TO MUCH resolution.
Most gauges on the market have only 10 leds to denote the whole scale. My favorite, the HalMeter-AF has thirty leds broken into three grops of 10. Red-Green-Red for Lean-Rich-Lean. Consider that a three digit display has 1000.
And after all that, it's the resolution and acuracy of the O2 sensor that the REAL limiting factor.
If you've ever seen an AF meter work in realtime you'd know those digital readouts would be almost worthless. In actual use they will fluctuate from lean to rich and back continuously. It's only when you boot it that the gauge actually gives you a reading that's worth anything. But a three digit display is going to be more confusion then help as it will NEVER settle. It just has TO MUCH resolution.
Most gauges on the market have only 10 leds to denote the whole scale. My favorite, the HalMeter-AF has thirty leds broken into three grops of 10. Red-Green-Red for Lean-Rich-Lean. Consider that a three digit display has 1000.
And after all that, it's the resolution and acuracy of the O2 sensor that the REAL limiting factor.
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