Tall

Problem - Only after the car has been run once, turned off and not allowed to cool all the way does this problem show up. It is a stalling that is like a rev limiter. It used to be at about 3k RPM and has now gotten worse to the point where I can hardly drive the thing (stalling at a little over 2k). My top speed when this is happening is about 60. It will run great when first run. The problem will not happen till it is turned off, then back on.

Things I have replaced - Cap (didn't change the rotor because it's stuck on), Fuel Filter, MAF. Checked the EGR valve and it is fine. Almost sure it's not the )2 sensor because I am actually getting better gas mileage since this started. So, what do we have left here. Injectors? CAS? Trust me, I have spent hours on this site trying to find somebody else with this problem and have not found one. Please help! I am trying to sell my car, but it is hard to sell a car that doesn't run.

Tall

Update:

It wouldn't even start for me yesterday. I was wrong though, it doesn't have to be started again to see the problem, just has to get good and warm. It has been starting hard, but yesterday was the first time it wouldn't start period. How are these all related?

Stranded in Seattle.

Tall

Am I really the only person who this has happened to? Taking it to a shop today, injectors are beyond my mechanical abilities.

mdunford

Hi,

I have had very similiar problems. (See my post today Aug.10th).
Two different garages said it was air flow meter. I had it
replaced at cost of $600 (they also put in new battery). Car
ran like new for about 2-3 days (80+ miles). yesterday on
return trip from New Hampshire on 495 it started stalling
again. Made it home only by keeping it below 2000 RPMs (
approx 55 mph). Stalling started 2-3 months ago, got so
bad could not drive it, too dangerous, it could cut out
anytime, I then figured out keeping revs. below 2000 RPMs
lessened chances of stalling but even so it was a nightmare
to drive.

Let me know what you find out and maybe together we can
help each other solve this; I am taking it straight back
to garage this week to get it sorted out.

Tall

Thanks man. It's NOT my MAF, and I doubt it is yours either. FYI - Schuck's sells reman ones for $190! Hope you can return that other one, I'm going to return mine. Have it at a shop this week and I have a feeling it's probably the injectors - $$$$$$$$$$$

Cliff Clavin

iTrader: (11)

I don't know if this is the same for your cars, but mine has a similar problem. I do have the VE (DOHC)engine, but my car stalls in a similar way. I do not have any starting problems at all, though.

Mine acts as though it's hitting the limiter (usually at around 2K-3K rpm), but it's very intermittent. Maybe every couple of days, especially when I stomp on the gas. If I let off the gas and push in the clutch, it will drop down to idle speed and then I can usually get it to accellerate again, but sometimes I have to do this twice. I imagine people behind me just think I am missing a gear.

I have also done research and talked with two mechanics. They both agree it is something with the electrical (spark). The first said it was either: MAF, coil packs or the Cam Position Sensor. The second said he was almost certain it is the Cam Position Sensor. He took it off the car, checked all of the connections and cleaned. The car did not stall for a couple of weeks. I thought the problem was fixed, but it started up again. So, I have purchased a used MAF and a used Cam Position Sensor (new ones are not worth it to me, since this is my work car). The CPS hasn't arrived yet, but when I get it, I am having them both cleaned and installed by the second mechanic (it's cheaper to do everything together). He says he will do one at a time to see if he can possibly figure out which is causing the stalling, if indeed that is the problem. I will update the .org on the results.

I know that your engine also has a cam position sensor, but it's different than mine. This is just my particular problem and there are lots of variables with any car that has an electrical/stalling problem.

Just thought I'd pitch in and try to help.
(sorry it's a bit long)

mdunford

Garage replaced the MAF again claiming
first one was defective. I got about
9 miles on the second one before engine cut out and has continued to do so. Now it dies completely and restarts instantly,
no bucking or lurching or having to
keep revs. down to get my sorry ***
home (if this keeps up the entire
town are going to give me a wide
berth whenever I'm on the road.)

MAF replacement was under warranty
and garage will refund if they can't
fix it which is fair enough. They now
think the reconditioned/new MAFs are
duds and want to try a used one, that
or an electrical system problem thats
smokes the MAFs. So I'm getting my
third MAF tomorrow...if this doesn't
work there will be a MAF bonfire in
my backyard over the weekend ...

jwhite

I have a similar problem as well. Except that mine does not stall completety. It'll just about stall then idle, and this might repeat itself 2 or 3 times. Then it'll usually clean up. Ever since I started using Gunk fuel injector cleaner once a month (since last August)my car hasn't done this too much. But just the other day,soon after I filled my tank with Sunoco (93 octane), my car started acting up again. I am convinced that Sunoco gas sucks. I usually get gas at Sheetz becuase it's closest to my house and I always get better gas mileage with Sheetz gas than any other namebrand station. My car continued to run rougher than usual until I refilled my tank (with Sheetz gas of course) and I also added the Gunk fuel injector cleaner, and again my problem went away. As stupid as it may sound, but I wonder if the gas can make that much of a difference, it seems to in my ride ('92se 5spd).

Tall

Mine is still at the shop waiting to get worked on. I have a feeling it is the TPS (throttle position sensor). Have a friend who had something similar happen to him and it was his TPS.

drstillpatient

iTrader: (2)

have u had a chance to look at your engine temperature control sensor (the one that goes to the ECU)...i had similar symptoms on my 89SE and i found that the harness was the culprit. additionally, this problem would mostly occur on DRY, very little humidity days...when it was humid out, it wouldnt happen.

So i jiggled the harness a couple times and this has never happened again...so far. if i lightly pull the wire harness backwards, it would start stalling again, if i press the harness slightly inwards, the car runs fine again. i am planning to clean the harness connections with electrical contact cleaner. good luck with your fix!

Tall

My temp guage has never worked, maybe that is the problem. I'll check into this.

anaximander

iTrader: (1)

This seems like a frequent problem. I posted this in the other thread, so I'm copying it since it relates to the same thing.

I have this stalling/jerking problem as well. It only happens within the first 10-20 minutes of driving until it's properly warmed up. The guy I bought it from maintains it's the AFM (airflow meter) since he had the same problem before. A shop scanned it and couldn't see anything, they want me to leave it overnight, but I need the car and it also doesn't happen every time, just now and then. I also noticed this happens on colder mornings more often. The car would also not start from the first crank, but will immediately from the second, I don't know if this relates to the same issue. After it's warm then it would start without a problem again. The AFM is $500 new and I decided, instead of replacing it, to wait until the problem gets worse. It would stall at any speed when it feels like doing it, the rpm gauge starts going back and forth, and the car starts slowing down. Most of the time I'm able to let go of the gas pedal and the accelerate again, but sometimes it'd just die and I have to pull over and restart it again. This is extremely annoying, I hope someone can help out. It's a 93se.

Please get back to us once you do the MAF and CPS replacements. I'd suggest do one at a time to pinpoint the problem. I replaced the fuel and air filters myself but the issue still persists. You know, start with the small things first.

drstillpatient

iTrader: (2)

well there are two different engine temperature sensors, one gives info to the temperature guage in your dash, the other goes to the ECU and tells is when to switch on the cooling fans.

if the guage in your car isnt working then its the sensor for the guage. but look into both, they are opposite each other. really easy to replace.

Tall

Just talked to the shop and they think they have it licked. They changed the rotor and cleaned up the plate that it sits on. There was a white powdery substance on the plate that they think was interfering with the photocell. Looks like it's fixed. They just cut the rotor off. When testing it they said the computer threw a CAS code, and that is how they tracked it down. We'll see whether it's fixed or not tonight.